Brodick (twice).

It was raining when I woke up and that set the tone for the day. I put the tent away wet and took the option of the more inland route to Whiting Bay which promised ‘shelter amongst the trees’.
A long climb from sea level took me onto a wide gravel road that snaked through a young plantation. It was wet and foggy and there was no shelter at all. I took a detour to see Glenashdale Falls and it was worth it.
I got to Whiting Bay just before noon and I found the first open shop I’d seen in 50 miles. I celebrated with a ham and pickle bap and 24 fingers of shortbread. I ate it in a bus shelter, sat alongside a lady in a headscarf with a shopping trolley who was waiting for the bus to Brodick. I tried to engage her in friendly conversation, but beyond nodding she wasn’t too keen. Can’t blame her.
Four miles on, a muddy footpath led me into Lamlash. The views across the bay to Holy Isle were somewhat muted by the drizzle, but the view of the Glenisle Hotel across the road was excellent. The first open pub of the trip lured me in. An hour or so after my ham bap, I was ordering cod and chips and having my first Arran pint. It was so good - a long-anticipated meal that lived up to expectations.
The barman gave me a talk on the problems facing the Arran hospitality industry and then advised me to avoid the coastal route back to Brodick. ‘2pm is high tide and it’s impassable if the tide’s in’.
So I took a new footpath and headed over the headland back to Brodick. I had left in beautiful sunshine, but arrived back in rain.
The walk had taken less time than I expected and given the poor weather forecast, I decided to get the 5.20pm ferry and then the Fri 2am boat home from Heysham. That was the plan.
The ferry left on time, but the rough weather meant that it was unable to dock at Troon and so we headed back to Brodick. Having changed my ferry ticket for the morning sailing, I headed for the hotel that I’d seen advertised, hoping to avoid another night in my damp tent. ‘Sorry pal - just let the final room. The ferry couldn’t dock, so everywhere is packed tonight’. I ended up in the Fallen Goat pub with Ewan and Kyle, fellow coastal way hikers who I’d met on day 3 of my walk. A few drinks and a Chinese and then it was time to put my tent up one more time. It was dark and windy, and I put it up In a hurry. Badly. It rained and I got wet. By 6.00am I was up and packed away - before anyone could report me for camping in a children’s playground.
The 7.30am ferry was cancelled, but the 8.40am sailed. A kind lift to Kilmarnock from Ewan and Kyle, preceded trains to Liverpool and a seat on the first SeaCat sailing of the season.
A memorable five days. Arran was great - scenery, geology, wildlife and lovely people. Just don’t forget to pack some food!Read more