Castello Rodrigo

Figueira Castello Rodrigo is a tiny medieval town that time forgot. Touching the Spanish border, its major claim to fame occurred in the twelfth century when the Moors were expelled. The local ruler died in a battle, his closest relative was a cousin, a Spaniard from over the next mountain. The Spaniard took advantage of the situation and set up a tiny little dukedom. The residents, Portuguese to the core, ran him out, took over, and they have run the place ever since.

About the same time an order of monks built a tiny church and hostel here to offer shelter and food to pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela. Both the church and the hostel are still here assisting pilgrims on their trek to the shrine. Before the Spanish Inquisition a community of Jews built a synagogue here. During that Crusade to purify the faith, Jews were forced to convert to Catholicism, and their houses were marked with a cross that allowed the inquisitors to invade their home without notice at any time, day or night. Their job was to make sure that no Jewish practices or religious objects were in the home. One homeowner serious about protecting his family hedged his bets and posted in front of his house a cross, a small statue of the Blessed Virgin, a Hebrew inscription (that I couldn’t quite decipher), and even a prehistoric Celtic symbol.

This tiny village seems exactly as it was in ancient times. If anything it is even less “dressed up” than Perouge, a similar town we visited in France. It was a delightful visit, and I do hope you will have the opportunity to visit here. Oh, by the way, for a friend of mine who especially loves to grow figs, the official name of this town is now “The Figgery of Castello Rodrigo.” Of course they use the Portuguese word for “figgery,” (figueira) but that’s exactly what the word means. Fig trees are so abundant here that they have given their name to the town. Come if you can, Bill.Read more