Floating Shrine

In the 16th century Itsukushima Island was considered to be divine. Only priests and monks could go there. Of course you know by now that the tori gate marked the entrance to a holy place, so the priests built a striking vermillion, fifty-foot-high tori for this island-temple out in the water.

Not only is the island sacred, so are its critters. The deer, foxes and hawks that still wander here unafraid of humans. In fact, if you’re not watchful, a deer will sneak up, or a hawk will swoop down and steal your lunch.

It is no longer true that only holy men can come here. Rivers of tourists and junior-high field trippers joined us on the ferry to the island and flowed past us into the Shinto shrine, the stately Buddhist temple and the hundreds of shops and restaurants. I got a kick out of saying, “Hello,” and hearing a dozen eighth-grade Japanese students respond “Hello!” practicing their English. Despite the masses of people, however, everyone stayed in line, remained courteous and displayed impeccable kindness. The Japanese really are amazing.

It is still true that the island is disarmingly beautiful. Nature here is gently preserved, and the trees, pools and hills look as though they have lain undisturbed for centuries. The island holds an ancient stage for Noh theater, whose sacred actors have now gone to the cities.

I hope you will have a chance to come to this sacred island to emjoy its unsurpassed beauty. But if you do, be careful to guard your lunch.Read more