Nijo-jo Castle—From Isolation to Empire

To describe Japan’s last four centuries merely as tumultuous would be a profound understatement. Throughout this period, powerful shoguns vied relentlessly for territorial dominance. In many cases, rival armies clashed under the belief that they were each serving the will of the divine—yet silent—emperor.

By the mid-19th century, the Tokugawa clan had emerged as the preeminent power in Japan. The military exploits of this formidable dynasty are dramatized in the recent Netflix series Shogun.

For more than 300 years, Japan resisted virtually all Western influence. This period of isolation came to an abrupt end on July 8, 1853, when American Commodore Matthew Perry sailed into Tokyo Bay, compelling Japan to open itself to the broader world. Among the reforms imposed upon the shogunate was the restoration of the emperor as head of state. The final Tokugawa shogun had little choice but to abdicate.

By that time, the primary Tokugawa residence had already been established in Tokyo—a palace that would later form the nucleus of the modern Imperial Palace, which the imperial family continues to occupy. However, one of the last grand Tokugawa palaces was constructed here in Kyoto, Japan’s ancient capital. That was the palace we visited today: the renowned Nijo-jo Castle.

While photography of the palace interior is prohibited, the opulence of its design must be emphasized. Every surface—whether of wood, metal, or lacquer—is a masterpiece of artistry. The level of craftsmanship in the carvings, metalwork, and paintings is nothing short of astonishing.

Our guide explained that the shogun was heavily insulated by layers of advisors. Only four members of his innermost circle were permitted to address him directly. Communications had to pass through successive ministers before reaching an official empowered to speak on the shogun’s behalf. Mannequins within the palace halls depict the abdication in 1867 of the last shogun, named Tokugawa Yoshinobu, offering visitors a vivid sense of the governance and protocol of the era.

Without photographs, perhaps the closest comparison I can offer is to the richly decorated temple interiors we have visited elsewhere in Kyoto—though the rooms here are far grander and more elaborate. Traditional Japanese interiors employed minimal furniture. Chairs were absent; instead, individuals sat upon the floor. Tables were small, and the primary implements included portable oil lamps and cast-iron charcoal braziers—items that accompanied the shogunate from one palace to another.

Exhibits throughout the palace also showcased court attire. Both men and women traditionally wore elaborate garments consisting of up to twelve layers of kimono.

Much like late 19th-century China, Japan—after its centuries of seclusion—recognized that the Western world had far surpassed it in technological and industrial development. This realization was difficult to confront. In the years following Commodore Perry’s expedition, a small group of Japanese youths illegally traveled to Europe, where they witnessed the astonishing advancements of the West. Upon their return, they reported their findings. Their accounts spurred a national movement not merely to adopt Western practices, but to surpass them. Thus began a period of rapid modernization during which Japan embraced and refined Western technology, industrial methods, and military strategy—emerging by the 1930s as a global power.

After Yoshinobu abdicated in 1867 and the shogunate was abolished, he was spared execution and allowed to retire. He later became a duke and a member of the House of Peers, engaging in various hobbies like painting and photography. Yoshinobu died in 1913. His successor, Iesato, also became a prominent public figure, serving in the House of Peers and was even considered for the role of prime minister. Although the formal structure of the government changed, the ancient traditions of samurai militarism, bushido and a figurehead emperor remained a part of Japanese culture, erupting in the campaigns of Generals Kanji Ishiwara and Hideki Tojo in the first half of the twentieth century.

Our visit offered insight into the historical reverence once afforded to the emperor. Prior to World War II, the Japanese widely regarded their emperor as a divine being. Today, this belief has largely faded; the imperial family, like its British counterpart, is deeply respected and cherished, though no longer deified.

Gardens surrounding the castle were open for exploration. We captured several beautiful images of the serene lake and landscaped grounds that encircle the castle.

Today’s visit to Nijo-jo Castle was both inspiring and deeply informative. The Japanese people possess a rich and distinguished cultural heritage. Their capacity to adopt and improve upon foreign ideas and technologies is truly extraordinary.

It was a privilege to explore this historic site and, through it, to gain a deeper understanding of this remarkable nation and its people.Okumaya devam et