The Wild Wild East

Marugame Castle in Kagawa Prefecture— they call it a castle, but it’s actually a watchtower. When it was built in the twelfth century, it was crucial to the defense of this kingdom.

In many ways, it was much like the other castles we’ve explored this past week—beautiful, meticulously crafted, and incredibly expensive to build and maintain.

Why was it needed? Why was it so important? Visiting our fourth castle in seven days sparked a broader reflection on history. Let me explain.

Some years ago, we toured the Rhine River in Germany. Along its winding course stood one castle after another—dozens of them, many lovingly preserved, others in picturesque ruins. The sheer number made me pause and wonder: Why so many castles in Germany?

Today, standing on the grounds of Marugame Castle, the same question came to mind: Why so many castles in Japan?

In medieval Germany, the answer was often a simple one. A local warlord—or, more bluntly, a thug with enough money and muscle—would claim a stretch of territory and build a fortress. Some even strung chains across the river to extract tolls from passing boats. With enough success, they expanded their domain, sometimes becoming dukes or princes. The most ambitious of all became kings. It was a progression fueled not by nobility of character, but by raw power and opportunism.

It’s a pattern we’ve seen in other stories, too. Growing up, we watched Westerns where a ruthless cattle baron would muscle out competition, employ a gang of hired guns, and take over a town. The formula was familiar: one man seizing power and controlling the local economy—until, of course, the hero in the white hat rode in to set things right.

Japan’s history followed a similar arc, though without the cowboy in the white hat. In the 12th century, with no strong central government, the most cunning or brutal swordsman might rise to local prominence. Rivals were eliminated or subdued. Castles began as simple watchtowers—tools of control, not comfort. Alliances between these local powers were made and broken, wars erupted, and over time, these opportunists rebranded themselves as the noble class.

Centuries later, we tour their castles, marvel at their artistry, and stroll through their exquisite gardens. From a safe distance, history takes on a certain charm.

Yet beneath the beauty lies a past of countless forgotten wars, petty rivalries, and shifting power. Japan, like Europe, is dotted with these reminders—fortresses that speak of a turbulent age when might made right.

One can only hope that humanity will someday outgrow the old cycles of power-grabs and petty wars, whether waged in armor or in business suits. History, though, suggests the tendency is hard to escape.

And so it goes.Read more