• Chuck Cook
  • Glenda Cook
  • Chuck Cook
  • Glenda Cook

Christmas Markets

To the land of Christkindle and glüwein with good friends we go, laughing all the way. We are excited about visiting the Christmas markets in Europe and retracing old familiar paths down the Danube river. We expect surprises so stay with us. Leggi altro
  • Inizio del viaggio
    4 dicembre 2025

    Christmas Already

    5 dicembre 2025, Germania ⋅ ❄️ 32 °F

    When our airplane’s wheels touched down in Munich, it was snowing. We got inside the airport and found that its beautiful Christmas decorations gave Glenda the perfect opportunity to prove that she really is an angel. I am excited about being here near the home of two of my favorite musicians: pianist Andras Schiff and violinist Anna Sophie Mutter. Two other favorite people, pictured here, are seated across from me as we await the departure of our flight to Budapest, home of Franz Liszt.Leggi altro

  • MARJORY

    5 dicembre 2025, Ungheria ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    MARJORY

    On our trip, we had the privilege of meeting Marjory from Canada. She was traveling alone and we hooked up with her at the airport in Munich as we all awaited our flight to Budapest. Marjory is a retired emergency room nurse. Her husband was a park ranger and the two of them traveled extensively while he was alive. He died 11 years ago and Marjory is still traveling alone at the age of 91. I asked her if her kids minded her traveling alone at her age and she said they did, but it was really not any of their business. We adopted Marjory as the 16th member of our 15 member group for the time that we were on the river cruise. On our first night in Budapest, Bob and Ellen and Chuck and I decided to go wandering through the city in a heavy drizzle. Marjory came with us and kept up with us as we slogged along the city streets. When the rain got heavier, Bob put his hat on her head so that she would not get wet. We got back to the hotel in time to go to supper, and Marjory was as fresh as the rest of us, even after a full day of flying . At 91 she still has a thirst for knowledge and a joy of traveling that keeps her young and healthy. She never asked any of us for help and managed her own affairs quite efficiently. My goal in life is to be as independent and curious as Marjorie. God bless you on your journeys,Marjory. You are an inspiration to all of us.Leggi altro

  • Chimney Cakes and Cathedrals

    5 dicembre 2025, Ungheria ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    As soon as we arrived in Budapest we went wandering, snooping, exploring. First we found a Christmas market in an area of the city that is still called the Jewish ghetto. Getting around was tricky because the names of some of the stores and hotels are written in Hebrew, even in Apple Maps.

    I wanted to see St. Stephen’s Basilica, the largest church in the city, so we wandered in that direction and braved dense crowds and light rain. Still, it was exciting because the Christmas crowds are already out, music was everywhere on the darkened streets and we smelled cinnamon. We followed our noses and came across a kiosk on the street selling a Hungarian delicacy. It is called a chimney cake. About the consistency of a jelly roll, it spirals into a cylinder. You break off a piece and dip it in hot chocolate syrup. Oh my! How delicious.

    Next we made our way over to St. Stephen’s Basilica. We asked if we could get inside to see the magnificent church. A workman doing maintenance on the site told us the ticket office was about 100 feet away beside the Starbucks. We followed the river of a crowd in the direction he indicated, but never saw either Starbucks or the ticket office. What we did see was amazing.

    In the rain a crowd of a thousand people stood gazing at the front of the church. Apparently speakers had been placed high on nearby buildings, because suddenly the air was filled with the most beautiful, ethereal heavenly music. An unseen projector, using the front of the church as a screen displayed verses from the Bible, and tributes to Pope John Paul and Pope Francis. Important dates from church history and words from ancient Christian creeds flashed along the front of the building. Everyone stood in awe as the display continued for about fifteen minutes.

    Maybe we will go inside the church in the next few days if we have time, but I am sure we will not see anything any more moving than what we saw this evening.
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  • The Opening Feast

    5 dicembre 2025, Ungheria ⋅ 🌧 46 °F

    Because of the incredible preparation of our tour hosts, Shane and Mika Lawrence, we all gathered at the fabulous Val Varju Pest Restaurant to kick off our winter trip to Europe. Glenda and I started with a delicious bowl of Hungarian Goulash. Had the meal ended there, we would have been completely satisfied, but she added a dish of salmon over sweet potatoes and Swiss chard. I had chicken breast with Hungarian cheese and ham baked in a bread bowl. We finished with the restaurant‘s prize-winning salted peanuts and black currant jam cake. The conversation sparkled as we got to know new friends in our travel group. What an excellent way to end a day that matches every fantasy one could have about traveling in Eastern Europe!Leggi altro

  • Breakfast in the Jewish Quarter

    6 dicembre 2025, Ungheria ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    If I had forgotten that we were in the Jewish quarter of Budapest, I was reminded this morning at breakfast. At the end of the restaurant is a beautiful Christmas display. It’s especially interesting because we are here in the middle of the Jewish ghetto. The remarkable thing about the display is that there is a large Christmas tableau featuring snow, a nutcracker and a book with a Hebrew inscription on the right hand page, which is translated into Spanish on the left. My Spanish is less rusty than my Hebrew now, so I was able to decipher that it wished peace and blessings to everyone in this holiday season. I suppose this simply goes to show that Christmas is no longer an exclusively Christian celebration. It has become a midwinter feast for people of every religious persuasion. It also shows that the Jews here are Sephardic Jews from Spain, rather than Ashkenazi Jews from Poland. There is an extremely beautiful old synagogue around the corner. It is made entirely of brick, but the masonry is amazing. It’s not open for tours today because since it is Saturday, services are being held for the Sabbath. Nevertheless, if we had any questions about the ethnicity of the neighborhood we were in, they were answered at breakfast this morning.Leggi altro

  • Budapest

    6 dicembre 2025, Ungheria ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    An early morning stroll around Pest

    Chuck and I got a solid 7 1/2 hours of sleep last night and after an early breakfast, we set out to explore the area around our hotel in the Jewish quarter. We found two synagogues on our stroll and we watched this section of the city wake up.

    Yesterday, on the drive from the airport, our driver pointed out to us that while the other Christmas Markets in Europe are ramping up security during the Christmas market season, in Budapest they are not. For the last 600 years the Serbian Muslims and the Bosnian Catholics have taken turns killing each other in repeated wars. Our driver told us that in 2015, Hungary and a few other Eastern European nations had had enough, and they closed their borders to all Muslims. They have not had any terrorist attacks in the last 10 years. I must say that last night while we were exploring the Christmas Markets in downtown Budapest, even though they were very crowded, we felt safe at all times. Everything in life is a trade-off. Hungary and other eastern European nations have chosen safety over diversity.

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  • Synagogue Walk

    6 dicembre 2025, Ungheria ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    After breakfast I wanted to see the glorious synagogues we passed yesterday, so I asked Apple Maps for the two closest to our hotel. We found two very near to us. One was the Kazinczy Street Synagogue, and the other was the Rumbach Utcai Zsinagóga. Both were monumentally beautiful examples of a fusion of Moorish and classical elements, showing the roots of Spanish Judaism that infuse the neighborhood around us. I hope you enjoy the rather pedestrian photos I took, but I hope you can go online to enjoy the elaborate interiors of these two lovely houses of worship.

    https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&amp…

    The largest and most elaborate synagogue here is the Soheny Street Synagogue. Take a look at its magnificence here:

    https://www.gettyimages.com/photos/budapest-syn…
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  • Budapest at Night

    6 dicembre 2025, Ungheria ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    We wanted to show some friends the remarkable monument in front of the parliament building to the Jews, who were killed in World War II. On the sidewalk by the river is a monument known as “Shoes on the Danube.” After admiring the beautiful Parliament Building and seeing this monument, a friend wanted to go to a nearby park that has statues of the American presidents. We had a wonderful time people watching on our way to the park. Soon we found ourselves at the Christmas market surrounding Saint Stephen’s Basilica. I was surprised that we had walked that far, since we had been in this exact location the night before. An Uber brought us back to our boat, where we enjoyed a sumptuous dinner followed by an excellent presentation of Hungarian music and dance. Listening to these violinists play Hungarian folk music leads me to understand how this country could produce such excellent classical violinists. Before we went to bed, our ship left its moorings, sailed up the Danube, and gave us a breathtaking view of the beautiful neoclassical buildings lit up by night. Budapest has to be one of the most beautiful cities in the world, especially at night.Leggi altro

  • Budapest by Day

    7 dicembre 2025, Ungheria ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Last night, with all of her Christmas lights, blazing, Budapest was magical. Today in the daylight, she was no less wonderful. Actually, this place is two cities – Buda on the right bank, and Pest on the left bank of the Danube River. Here, in the Hungarian language, they call the river the Donau.

    We started on the Buda side, older, greener, more elegant, and more mountainous than the area across the river. The castle district was itself a Christmas card. The spire of Saint Matthias Church caps a dozen stunning neoclassical buildings scattered around its base. Actually, these old monumental structures are new, but no less classic than the identical structures they replaced. Many of the palaces here built in the 18th and 19th centuries were destroyed in World War II. The country is in the middle of a 25-year-long program to rebuild these glorious old buildings exactly as they were when they were new. The result is striking. Some of these buildings now house government departments. Others are office buildings. All are majestically, beautiful.

    The government is careful to consult old drawings and engravings, assuring that the new buildings are exact replicas of their predecessors. Through her connections with the Hilton family, Hungarian actress Zsa Zsa Gabor arranged for the construction of one of these old palaces as a hotel even while the communist regime was still in control here. As they were rebuilding the structure, the builders discovered the ruins of an old monastery beneath the palace. They rebuilt it, monastery, and all, and now it looks as though it has been standing there since good king Stephen cut his teeth.

    The pest side of Budapest, (pronounced pesht) is the flatter commercial side of the city that contains Hungary‘s wedding-cake parliament building.

    We stopped again at the most powerful monument I’ve ever seen, the somber “Shoes on the Danube.” In 1944 the Hungarian Arrow Militia, controlled by a Nazi army, brought Jews here to the riverside, about 100 at a time. They removed their victims’ shoes, which were valuable. Executioners tied Jews together, stood them by the river, and shot every other person. They fell into the river, pulling their neighbors with them. Thus, the militia killed over 3,000 Jews, using half of that many bullets, saving ammunition. Now bronze replicas of 1940-era shoes sit silently on the sidewalk, lining the riverbank. They give silent, powerful testimony of man’s inhumanity to man.

    We passed the elegant Opera House with its façade featuring native son Franz Liszt, the very first superstar in the western world. At the piano keyboard he shook his glorious mane, making women faint at his concerts.

    From there we were taken to the Heroes’ Monument honoring the Magyar rulers who occupied this area in the year 896. Now there are monumental statues, art museums, and a busy ice-skating rink in the huge plaza. In warmer seasons the ice rink is a shallow lake where picnickers can rent rowboats.

    We wound up at the Christmas market at Saint Stephen’s Basilica, which we found by accident last night by just snooping around the city. What an extraordinary and Beautiful place Budapest is! It’s artistic and cultural contributions to our world our virtually incalculable. It is such a blessing to come to this remarkable place!
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  • Bratislava—The Quiet Capital

    8 dicembre 2025, Slovacchia ⋅ 🌧 41 °F

    I chatted with our guide before our tour began. She said, “You’re about to leave to go to Vienna, and you have just come from from Budapest. We are not Vienna and we are not Budapest, but such as we are, I will show you Bratislava.”

    She sounded almost apologetic, but I immediately fell in love with this city. The capital of the new Republic of Slovakia, it gained its independence on January 1, 1993. Like its neighbors it has stunning architecture, incredible food and glorious music, but it does all these things just a little more quietly than its larger neighbors.

    Bratislava does not try to be anything other than it is: a picturesque, friendly and historic slice of the old Czechoslovakia. The city surprised itself it the late 1990’s when political currents sloshing through the remnants of the old Communist Bloc unexpectedly made Slovakia an independent nation. Very quickly citizens found themselves facing the daunting task of creating a new democratic republic out of nothing, and of writing a constitution to sanction it. They came up with a parliamentary form of government, a unicameral parliament and a president elected every five years. Most of the real political power, however, lies with the prime minister.

    Andrea, our guide today, holds a degree in cultural anthropology from the local state university, so she was well able to explain to us about the early history of Slovakia as part of Hungary in the ninth century, its subjugation by the Muslim Ottoman Empire in the sixteenth century, and its prominence as the place of the coronation of the Austro-Hungarian emperors in the eighteenth century. The architecture and the cuisine still show all of those influences. I must try one dish our guide described, potato gnocchi or pasta smothered in a goat cheese sauce. To a cheese lover that sounds like a piece of heaven.

    Bratislava has its own unique customs. For example, every elementary school class makes a Christmas tree and decorates it as it chooses. One caught my attention. It was decorated with dozens of birds made out of paper mache. Only, the paper mache was not made of paper. It was made from the dried leaves of autumn mashed into a pulp and dried. The birds were beautiful. After being displayed in the public plaza, the Christmas trees will be given to nursing homes, hospitals and rehab centers nearby. The kids in Bratislava do this every year.

    There is a glorious opera house here, and a symphony orchestra. Although, like the city, the classical musicians here do not get the attention of those in Vienna or Berlin, to my ears there is no significant difference. The arts are taken as seriously here as in any other European city. In fact, I love some of the quirky sculptures here. One shows a communist sympathizer coming out of a literal sewer in a public street. Another shows a local denizen who lived here back in the last half of the last century. Unlucky in love, he was rejected by his fiance. Afterwards he dressed in formal clothing after work every day, and stood on a certain corner in his leisure hours handing flowers to passing women whom he considered beautiful. He died in the 1990’s, but a local sculptor made his statue, which still holds his spot on the same corner, his top hat in hand.

    The city and its people are as capable, kind and accomplished as any we have found in Europe. If you haven’t heard of Bratislava, it is not because life here is any less interesting than in other European capitals, nor because people here perform less excellently. It may simply be because Bratislava just likes to do things a bit more quietly.
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  • Sweet Home Bratislava

    8 dicembre 2025, Slovacchia ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    Glenda and I were walking through the Christmas market in Bratislava this afternoon and we came upon a group of joyously inebriated group of revelers singing some kind of song at the top of their lungs. One woman grabbed me and started singing, so I attempted to mimic the words they were singing. They all laughed, and she said something in German. A guy on the street translated, “She’s saying, ‘You’re more drunk than we are!’”

    I laughed and she said, “No. Deutsch! Deutsch!” So I continued to mimic the words of each phrase after them. They loved it and invited Glenda and me to sit with them. The guy playing the guitar was really good. When he heard I was an American, he struck up “Sweet Home Alabama.”

    They sang two verses in, what was it? Hungarian?

    Then my contribution in English was:

    In Birmingham they love the Governor,
    We all did what we could do,
    What I gave doesn’t bother me,
    Does your conscience bother you?
    (Tell me true!)

    They laughed, patted me on the back, treated me like the king of Slovakia, and kept on singing.

    After the song they asked me where I was from. I told them “North Carolina.” One asked “Is that Alabama?”

    I said, “No, but both are in the South—only, North Carolina is better than Alabama! Come see us!”

    They laughed, saluted me with high-fives and gave me a set of new friends I will remember forever.
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  • Timeless Vienna

    9 dicembre 2025, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    We arrived at the Hofburg Palace around 11:00am and immediately I was transported to that timeless place where old culture, architecture and art always seem new again. Our bus let us out at the Viennese Parliament Building, a structure that looks like the beautiful old buildings of ancient Greece, except for the fact that they are all new, undamaged, colorful and shiny. Just walking down the street to St. Stephen’s Cathedral, I thought I noticed men standing just a little taller, and women walking just a bit more elegantly. There is a kind of formality in Vienna that somehow seems perfectly natural.

    Unforced.

    At the site of the home of composer Josef Haydn, we pedestrians were passed, not by a truck, but by a carriage pulled by horses. Something seems to be in the air here that reminds one of a time when civility was in vogue.

    We passed a coffee shop where Sigmund Freud, Carl Jung, Richard Strauss and other thinkers who changed our world gathered and chatted over coffee every morning. Oh to be a fly on the wall in that coffee shop!

    Mozart, Haydn and Beethoven are still alive here. There are as many shops selling pianos as those selling new cars.

    We went to the Christmas Market where we grabbed a quick lunch of langos and glüwein. Then we walked over to the art museum to see the world’s largest collection of paintings by Peter Brueghel.

    The temperature remained in the low 40’s (F) and the fog thickened, so we hopped on the bus that took us back to our ship for hot chocolate and cookies.

    I know Rome is supposed to be “The Eternal City,” but somehow Vienna seems to me to be changeless. The city is like some kind of surreal time machine that takes me back to an era when the world was less complicated, less frantic, more kind and less selfish. Here beauty, decency and civility still seem to prevail. Manners are not out of place. And even if there may be instances where I do not actually see such manners in the streets of Vienna, this city still has a way of bringing out those qualities in me. For that I am grateful.
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  • An “Eroic” Performance

    9 dicembre 2025, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 39 °F

    What is Vienna without music?

    Tonight we had the opportunity to enjoy a performance by the Vienna Imperial Orchestra in the ornate baroque palace of Prince Franz Joseph Maximillian Libkowitz, Beethoven’s early patron. In this room the composer gave the premiere of his Eroica Symphony in 1804, which was later given its first public performance at the Theater am der Wien nearby.

    Of course the program tonight was heavy with works by Vienna’s Waltz King Richard Strauss. There were also some very accessible works by Mozart with contributions from a male and a female vocalist.

    A poignant moment concluded the concert when the vocalists offered the Christmas son “Silent Night” in its original German version.

    What better way to end a lovely evening in Vienna!
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  • Dürnstein

    10 dicembre 2025, Austria ⋅ ⛅ 43 °F

    We made a brief pit stop in the tiny Austrian town of Dürnstein on the Danube. The town is the perfect little storybook village. I expected Hansel and Gretel to pop out of any doorway.

    The thing that attracts me to this town is the experience of King Richard the Lionhearted of England. Returning from the first Crusade in 1192, he was kidnapped and held ransom by Count Leopold. The Count advised Richard’s mother, Eleanor of Aquitaine, that her boy would be released for 26.5 metric tons of silver, today worth about 60 million dollars.

    His mother, the Queen of France, was beautiful, rich, smart, shrewd and related to every other royal family in Europe. So she called her kin and raised the money to free England’s king.

    Some of our shipmates visited the ruins of the castle way up on the mountain above us. We chose, rather, to stay down in the storybook village and let visions of sugarplums dance in our heads. This is a Christmas tour, after all.
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  • Along the Danube

    10 dicembre 2025, Austria ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

    Meandering down the Danube puts one in a pensive mood. As we travel west I remember that the bank to our left was part of the Roman empire. The bank to our right was controlled by the disorganized Germanic tribes that eventually defeated Rome.

    Whatever may have happened in the past, today I am impressed with the beauty of the Danube. Hills that reach to the sky are covered with miles and miles of Riesling grape vineyards. Spiking up into the heavens are the ruins of old castles that formed Europe’s history before anyone had ever heard of a nation-state.

    Each town wears evidence of the former power of the Christian Church. The tall church spire tops the largest building of every town we pass. The people we meet here are now, however, are usually thorough secularists. Their primary loyalty is to the state.

    With the rise of trans-national corporations, one must wonder what will replace the nation-state as the structure around which the world of the future will be organized. The colorful panorama passing by the Emerald Dawn gives one much to consider.
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  • The Power and the Glory

    10 dicembre 2025, Austria ⋅ ☀️ 45 °F

    Note: Some of the photos accompanying this post were taken in 2014, when we were allowed to take photos inside the monastery and the main church.

    Melk Abbey is a Benedictine monastery that has been praying daily for the world since the year 1089. A rebuilding program lasting for 40 years in the early eighteenth century has left us with a spectacularly beautiful baroque complex that houses a school, a library, a vineyard and a church whose beauty defies description. The rationalism of the late eighteenth century led to the closure of many monasteries whose only product was prayer. This cloister escaped the axe of Emperor Joseph II because it also produced wine, spices and educated students from its school.

    The school is still here, and its 800 students from age 10 to 18 must still study theology. In our inclusive age, however, a student here need not be Roman Catholic. She can be Evangelical; he can even be Muslim.

    Benedictines sing their prayers, and the 28 monks who still live here sing the daily office in a small chapel adjacent to the large Abbey Church. The noon service takes place in the big church, and the public is invited to worship with the brothers of the cloister.

    The entire facility is magnificent. Many of the dormitory rooms were made for the family and court of Emperor Franz Joseph and his wife Maria Theresa, who was especially fond of Melk Abbey. For this reason, none of the residences along the 600 yards of corridors can be called shabby. Most are used now for offices. A marble dining room made for the use of the royal family still stands with moveable lunettes to allow guests to hear the music of a chamber orchestra during their meals.

    The main church, a baroque masterpiece, beggars description. Marble and gold cover every surface from the high altar to the organ pipes up in the choir. A ceiling painted with images of clouds and angels could plausibly be described as a window into heaven.

    And yet. . .

    When I think of the hundreds of millions of dollars worth of art, precious stones, precious metals, gold-covered reliquaries, liturgical vestments and golden jewel-studded chalices used here, I have to wonder whether the humble carpenter from Galilee would approve. I must wonder how many poor starving Austrians could have been fed had those resources been used differently. I must wonder about orphans who were compelled to a life of labor rather than education. Could the abbey’s extravagant resources have been used to relieve their suffering?

    Possibly so, but when I see the beauty on display here, the meticulous care that prelates and craftsmen have given to the service of God in these buildings, the way the indescribable beauty of this abbey reflects the glory of God, I must finally conclude—I’m glad they built it.
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  • The Other Mozarts

    11 dicembre 2025, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    We are in Salzburg, the town that gave birth to Mozart, and we saw not only the house in which he was born, but also a different house where he lived as a youth.

    I stood there in rapt admiration along with the rest of the tourists. Christmas Markets, the cathedral, and the castle overlooking the town are all magnificent. Salzburg is named for the legendary salt mines that have yielded their life-giving nutrient since Celtic times. It is no accident that the Roman soldiers here were paid in salt, hence the word “salary.”

    Somehow as we admired the many charms of this town, however, I couldn’t get my mind off another Mozart. I suspect that without him, we may have never heard of Wolfgang.

    The man I have in mind is Leopold Mozart, Wolfgang’s father. History has given him a bad rap. He is depicted as a paternal tyrant who beat his two kids into practicing their keyboard skills for no less than fourteen hours each day, and then hauling his wunderkind around the courts of Europe, making them perform like trained monkeys.

    But I wonder . . .

    Had it not been for Leopold, we may never have heard of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.

    Leopold had been a choirboy in his native town of Augsburg. He could sing remarkably well and was often invited to perform in choirs of churches other than his own. His father, a successful bookbinder, saw to it that Leopold received music lessons, and he became an accomplished violinist and organist.

    Although he had graduated with honors from his local school in Augsburg, when his father died in 1737 Leopold was struggling to find himself. He moved from Augsburg to Salzburg in order to study law and philosophy at the university. His parents had wanted him to be a priest, but he was more interested in science. Microscopes and telescopes interested him far more than religion.

    Things did not go well in school. He missed classes, not so much because he was derelict, but because needed to supplement his income. He did this by grabbing music gigs wherever he could find them. He was suspended from the university twice, and after two years, the school expelled him. Luckily his musical skills got him a job in the local orchestra of the Archbishop-Prince.

    Ever the pragmatist, Leopold excelled, becoming violinist and valet to one of the university canons. In 1740 he began to compose and publish his own compositions and to teach musicology. Within a few years he had enough money to marry. In the next few years he published over two dozen keyboard and orchestral compositions and a textbook on musical theory. The prince made him the assistant conductor of the orchestra and the assistant royal kappelmeister (choir director).

    Were they not overshadowed by the compositions of his son, Leopold Mozart’s works would be played today much more often than they are.

    And overshadowed they were.

    Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart began performing standard repertory works publicly at the age of three. He began publishing his own piano works at the age of six.

    You know the rest of the story. You have heard everything from the charming Eine Kleine Nachtmusik to the powerful, unfinished Requiem in D minor.

    But there may also be a few pieces of the puzzle we may have missed. For example, long after Leopold died, Wolfgang still sat at the keyboard over sixteen hours a day, without the prompting of his father. Wolfgang wrote the opera, “The Magic Flute,” which includes many references to the Freemasons, as a tribute to his late father.

    Another piece of the puzzle lies in the fact that Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was considered by many who knew him to be a nincompoop. He had a kind of screaming, cackling laugh which erupted at inopportune times. There are some suggestions that he often farted loudly, then laughed uproariously about it. He could not handle money. He may have delighted in poking people in their private parts just for fun and then screaming with laughter. It may be that he had something like Aspberger’s syndrome, Tourette’s syndrome or some qualities of a savant. It is as though all of his creative powers were funneled into composition rather than socialization.

    But, oh! Could he write music!

    Could it be that Leopold understood these things about his son and wanted to assure that he could make a living?

    Leopold was unusual in another way. Not only did he train his son to be a musician, he also taught a daughter. Maria Anna Mozart, nicknamed “Nannerl,” was six years older than Wolfgang, but Leopold trained her as he later trained Wolfgang. It was Nannerl who shared her piano lessons with her baby brother and got him started tinkering around at the keyboard. She also became a celebrated child prodigy and traveled to the royal courts of Europe in their concert tours at a time when girls performing publicly was unthinkable.

    Wolfgang adored his sister and considered her to be a better pianist than himself. She ended her career at age 17, returned to Salzburg, and became a noted music teacher. Marrying at age 33, she left her hometown. When her husband died in 1801, she returned to Salzburg, resumed teaching music, and performed regularly here.

    She is known to have composed music, though none of her manuscripts survive. I have to wonder whether some of her compositions might have eclipsed her brother’s.

    After Wolfgang died at age 35, she became THE authority about his life, contributing to the works of the many biographers who elevated her little brother into the musical pantheon.

    So today as I stand in Salzburg, I celebrate the memory and accomplishments of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, who contributed to my own young life more than I can describe.

    But I also celebrate the enormous talents of the other Mozarts.
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  • Adventure in Salzburg

    11 dicembre 2025, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    After a 2 hour drive from the ship, we arrived in Salzburg. Our guide Hans was fabulous on our walking tour of the city. We passed the home where Mozart grew up and then we passed the home where he was born, and then we ventured into the Christmas market area, where we also saw the church where Mozart played. Sound of Music locations were noted along the way and our group even sang a song from the movie.

    Indulging in all of the traditional Austrian treats during our six hours in Salzburg, we devoured apple strudel and coffee at a traditional coffee house, and we had hotdogs with sauerkraut at the Christmas market. We purchased gingerbread and other treats and even ventured into a grocery store. I have never seen a larger selection of hotdog and sausages in my entire life. We even had time to spend a quiet 30 minutes in the where Mozart played as a young man.
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  • Christmas Magic in Regensburg

    12 dicembre 2025, Germania ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    Today at 1:30 we began a walking tour of Regensburg. The history of the city is amazing and we have written about this place in other blogs but this year the Christmas markets here were magical. After passing through several city Christmas markets on our tour, we wound at the Thurn and Taxis Christmas market on the palace grounds. I felt like I had stepped back into a medieval village. There were wood fires everywhere and stalls had meat and fish roasting on spits over open fires. All of the vendors were dealing in handmade items. The bread was baked in brick ovens. All the stalls were made of wood and decorated just like they would’ve been in medieval Germany. It was a thoroughly enchanting place and I was able to snag two beautiful small nativity scenes. All of our Christmas markets have been beautiful and charming, but the medieval Christmas market on the palace grounds surpassed anything we’ve seen so far. Chuck enjoyed some gluwein from one vendor. On the way back to the ship, we stopped at a place where Chuck and I’ve had sausages before when we were here. The family that owns the sausage grill has been using the same recipe for 600 years. A sausages are roasted over an open fire and truly are gloriousLeggi altro

  • Celebration!

    13 dicembre 2025, Germania ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    Boy! Do Germans know how to celebrate!

    In Nuremberg today they were out by the tens of thousands in the Christmas market. The crowd occasionally got so thick that it was impossible to move. After a half hour of fighting the crowds we found refuge in the Frauenkirche ( the Church of Our Lady) in Nuremberg.

    The people are especially keen to celebrate right here—in Nuremburg. This town is regarded by Germans as the quintessential German city. It’s something like having Independence Hall, Times Square and Disney World all wrapped into one place.

    That is the reason Hitler wanted to have the 1936 Olympics here. Although he was Austrian, he wanted people to believe that he was the most German of Germans. That’s why he held his massive Nazi rallies here at Zeppelin Field. That’s also why the allies held the postwar war trials here at the end of World War II.

    Today war was the last thing on the minds of those reveling in the streets of Nuremberg. Everyone was celebrating. Every kind of Christmas cookie and fudge imaginable was calling my name. The fragrance of spiced wine wafted around every corner. Holiday hats, reindeer antlers and Santa Clause suits were all around us. A high school choir sang contemporary Christmas music.

    In short, the Christmas market at Nuremberg is a blast!
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  • Sofitel Munich Bayerpost

    13 dicembre 2025, Germania ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    We just checked into the hotel. As we stood at the front desk, hundreds of men and women in formal clothing came in. The men looked immaculate in tuxedos and tails, and the women looked glamorous in their evening gowns. Apparently some sort of Christmas party is going on here. Too bad we didn’t get the invitation!Leggi altro

  • Mad Ludwig

    14 dicembre 2025, Germania ⋅ ☀️ 41 °F

    After Austria defeated his army, King Ludwig II became reclusive and obsessed with the old Germanic sagas. The legends of Parcifal’s quest for the holy grail, the doomed love of Tristan and Isolde and the adventures of Lohengrin filled his heart and mind. Though he never renounced the Christian faith, the old Germanic tales became like Scripture for him, and he wanted to live like one of the old Germanic kings.

    So he used almost all of the resources of his kingdom, or in other words, he taxed his subjects, to create his own mythological German wonderland on a mountainside called Neuschwanstein. In the 1880’s he built a fairytale castle, magnificently furnished and embellished with paintings of all the old folk tales.

    Unfortunately we were not allowed to take photos of the inside of the castle, but if you use your imagination to envision the most fabulous palace possible, you won’t miss this castle by much. It is interesting, though, that somehow I cannot escape the awareness that this is a fake palace. If you have ever been in Buckingham Palace, or the Savoy Palace in Naples, or the Royal Palace in Amsterdam, their furniture is just a little bigger, a bit nicer, usually older, and everything is real. Here it is impossible to dismiss the fact that this entire building is Ludwig’s toy. Everything is new. Of course, it is made to look old, but there is a difference between a genuine antique and a reconstruction. This castle reminds me of the version of the Eiffel Tower in Las Vegas. This is a Las Vegas castle. It is like Parcifal at Disney World. Still, it IS beautiful, though make believe.

    Ultimately his government declared him to be insane, and imprisoned him at Munich. The day after he was imprisoned, he turned up drowned in a lake adjacent to the jail. No one was ever charged with the crime of killing the king, but the circumstances were questionable.

    I’m glad we came here today, but I kept asking myself the same question. Even if I could build a home this big, elaborate and opulent, would I actually do it? I don’t think so. What about you? Would you build such a house?
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  • HOME AGAIN

    15 dicembre 2025, Germania ⋅ ☁️ 34 °F

    HOME AGAIN

    After a 9 hour flight, we landed in Charlotte, grabbed our stuff, caught the waiting shuttle to the parking spot and began our drive home to Asheboro. We laughed that it was colder in Charlotte than it was in Germany, even on top of the mountain to see Mad Ludwig’s castle. Bob and Ellen threw their luggage in their truck and took off for Mebane. It was a joy to travel with Bob and Ellen. Sharing a special trip with friends has created memories and a bond that can only happen when you travel together. While it was only 5 o’clock here, our bodies thought it was midnight so we ran to our favorite Mexican restaurant, had a quick supper, came home and went to bed. And now we begin the ritual of trying to get back onto Eastern Standard Time. Both of us were up at 2:30 this morning, but gradually we will move that internal clock in the correct direction so that by the weekend we may be on a regular sleep and wake schedule. It was a lovely trip and we are so glad we got to share it with friends, old and new. Making memories with friends is a gift we do not take lightly. Let us treasure one another.Leggi altro

    Fine del viaggio
    14 dicembre 2025