We have toured the Chinese coast before but now we go inland—all the way into Tibet. To the opposite side of the world and into the world’s highest mountains—this is the ultimate trip. Read more
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  • Day 15

    Greater Dead Than Alive

    October 18, 2019 in China ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    Can an emperor be more important dead than alive? Around 205 BC the first Chinese emperor died. Though he had ruled for only fifteen years, he spent most of that time and most of his country’s revenue building his tomb. His mausoleum covered an area about four miles by five miles and contained more lavish treasures than one can imagine. Spreading out for more than twenty square miles, eleven stories underground, the tomb was laid out in the pattern of a miniature map of China, including two rivers and an ocean made of mercury. After two millennia they still contaminate the soil here.

    He buried his army with him, or at least a replica of it. While only 1600 terra-cotta warriors have been found, researchers estimate that when all have been unearthed a century from now, there will be over eight thousand infantrymen, cavalrymen, horses, chariots, archers and officers. Each face is different. The uniforms are accurate, marking each different type of soldier. Originally their faces and uniforms were all painted in lifelike colors. All except for the snipers, that is. One archer was found with a face painted camouflage green. His hands held a crossbow with a bolt that could kill at three hundred meters. Even though the soldiers are clay dummies, the weapons they hold are the real thing. Spears, halberds, longbows and crossbows were all made with interchangeable parts. The trigger of your crossbow gets damaged, install a new one and continue to shoot. Arrows were made with arrowheads that were heavier and harder than the shaft or the fletch, though all were made of bronze and welded into one piece. A sword was found that had molecular memory. A heavy soldier lay on it bending it for two thousand years. When the soldier was removed, the sword straightened into its original shape. Another sword was found without a flake of rust upon it. Metallurgists discovered that the weapon was made of bronze clad with chromium. The western world did not learn how to marry chromium to other metals until the twentieth century. To this day the only way we know to complete this process requires electricity. We still don’t know how the Chin dynasty did it.

    The outfitting of this tomb and the conscripted labor required to build it so alienated the subjects of the Chin dynasty that they rebelled. Tens of thousands of workers died building the tomb, and their bodies were simply thrown into the nearest pit. At the emperor’s death the workers rebelled, smashed the clay statues, stole the weapons and revolted. Afterwards all that remained were the fragments of the clay warriors. Only one, the green-faced bowman, was discovered intact.

    The statues were found by accident in 1978 when a group of farmers dug a well. They found a clay soldier’s head and decided not to tell anyone about it. One farmer, however, did tell a local official, who notified the Chinese department responsible for archaeology and antiquities.

    Another minor miracle accompanied the discovery of these artifacts in 1978. Mao Tse Tung died in 1976. Had these remarkable remains been discovered before his death, they would have been obliterated as a part of his Cultural Revolution, and neither their discovery nor their destruction would have ever been reported to the outside world.
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  • Day 15

    The Concubine Empress

    October 18, 2019 in China ⋅ 🌙 52 °F

    Tonight we saw a most spectacular dinner and ballet. At the Shanxi Tourism Group’s magnificent dinner theater we enjoyed delicacies including prawns, spiced beef and rice wine from the first nation to have its own cuisine. The choreography, live orchestral music and opulent costumes dazzled our senses. The Xi An Tang Dynasty Company presented in music and dance a visually stunning performance of the story of Empress Wu Ze Tian, based on historical events. At the age of fourteen in the year 637 Mei Nyang moves to the imperial palace to become one of several hundred imperial concubines. She attracts the attention of Tang Emperor Tai Zong, and her life is changed forever. She commits an infraction resulting in her imprisonment, but later during a battle, she is injured while attempting to save the wounded emperor’s life. Through her wisdom and diplomacy she wins the king’s heart to become his favorite wife and chief counselor. Emperor Tai Zong dies in 690 AD, and at the age of 57 Mei Nyang becomes China’s first woman emperor and assumes the royal name Wu Ze Tian (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wu_Zetian.) Throughout her wise reign China enjoyed a period of unprecedented prosperity. What a wonderful way to spend our last night in China’s ancient capital!Read more

  • Day 16

    Pandas

    October 19, 2019 in China ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We arrived in Beijing in smog thick enough to swim in. Everyone on the bus felt the sting in their throat, and half of us donned face masks. It took more than an hour in bumper to bumper traffic to get to the zoo. Charmed by the pandas, natives and tourists saw the zoo through their iPhones. Another forty-minute crawl brought us to a restaurant, a favorite of Ray, our guide, who is a Beijing native. We saw traffic tie itself into a knot on the way to the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, but now we are here, travel weary, but happy to be in the capital.Read more

  • Day 17

    The Center of the World

    October 20, 2019 in China ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    The Chinese name for itself is Jung Gwo, which literally means “the central kingdom.” Traditionally the residents of this nation have considered it as the center of the world, the focus of civilization. The farther from the Jung (center) you get, the more barbaric you are. Today we were at the Jung, the center, as we walked from Tien An Men Square through the Forbidden City, an area open only to the emperor.

    Since I became a Chinese student in 1971, I have always wanted to come here, to the center. Today I fulfilled that dream. Our bus took us along the eight-lane highway where a lone student stopped a tank in 1989, and all the world watched. That road empties into the front gate, where a mile-long queue waited to view the preserved corpse of Mao Tse Tung. Some of the people we saw standing in line at eight o’clock this morning will stand in line until sunset. We absorbed the beauty of the seventeenth-century buildings of the Ming Dynasty, built on the site of the ancient capital of Kublai Khan six hundred years before. The detailed ornamentation was breathtaking. Finally we got to see the private residence of the last of the Qing Dynasty, who were forced to vacate their palace in 1924. The last emperor, Pu Yi, was crowned emperor of the Middle Kingdom at the age of three, was deposed in 1924, became the Japanese puppet ruler of Manchuguo during World War II, and ended his life in 1967 working as a gardener in Hawaii under the name of Henry Puyi. In this beautifully restored version of the Forbidden City it seems as though time has stopped. Yet moments after leaving we drove past shapely sky scrapers that surpass those being built in my home country. In Tien An Men Square it seems that time has stopped, but this stasis serves to remind us that everything changes. Nothing remains the same. There is nothing permanent except change. That is the lesson from Tien An Men—the Gate of Heavenly Peace.
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  • Day 17

    At Home in Beijing

    October 20, 2019 in China ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    We were invited into the home of a woman who loves to entertain foreign tourists. She showed us her home, whose history is clouded in obscurity. Her family has lived in this house for hundreds of years, and their oral tradition holds that it was built for a nobleman and his family sometime around the sixteenth century. Perhaps the nobleman was a servant to the emperor. Their oral tradition may be correct since the house is in Old Beijing, a part of the city adjacent to the Imperial Complex and the Forbidden City. She and her daughter served us tea and Chinese cookies. These two women are skilled artists who created lovely oriental scenes on glass bottles. The trick is that they must use tiny little brushes which they use to paint the glass from the inside. She showed us her work and told us that she has traveled to Indonesia, Singapore and the United States showing her craft.Read more

  • Day 17

    The Two Towers

    October 20, 2019 in China ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    On this site in Old Beijing, Emperor Kublai Khan erected two towers, a bell tower and a drum tower. Of course, both were used as observation posts from which soldiers might keep an eye out for approaching intruders. Yet the towers served another purpose as well. The bell tower sounded every two hours to broadcast the time. On sunny days a sundial kept time, but on cloudy days a water clock served as a backup. This tower remained in service until the eighteenth century when European clocks were imported to serve as the timekeepers for Beijing’s residents. The drum tower served a similar purpose. It signaled the population about special events or warned them of fires or other impending dangers. In some Chinese cities a curfew was imposed at ten o’clock at night. About a quarter hour before curfew, the drummer would begin very slow beats. By the 150th beat everyone was expected to be in their home. Between the towers we saw young children in an art class, drawing both towers under the instruction of their teachers. The two towers we saw today were not the ancient ones built by Kublai Khan. These are new ones constructed around the year 1200 AD. Today neither tower performs its original function, but the bell tower houses a lovely tea house where a charming young woman introduced us to the elaborate arts of Chinese tea. We sampled oolong and jasmine tea, along with a couple of other varieties. There were exquisite tea pots for sale, some made of semi-precious jade. One small jade teapot cost over $3,000. We learned that tea can serve as a relaxing beverage that offers a wonderful excuse just for hanging out with friends and getting to know new ones.Read more

  • Day 17

    Roast Duck

    October 20, 2019 in China ⋅ 🌙 68 °F

    Back in language school my teachers, all from Beijing, told us that if we ever had the chance we should sample Beijing Roast Duck. Last night I had my chance as we dined at a restaurant specializing in this traditional Chinese delicacy. Although I was not hungry because of the huge lunch I had eaten earlier, I sampled everything on the table and found it all delicious. The food here, both oriental and Western, has been superb.Read more

  • Day 18

    In the Footsteps of Emperors

    October 21, 2019 in China ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    We almost lost this excursion in the shadow of the Great Wall, but this afternoon we walked about a mile along the path of the Ming Dynasty tombs. After an interesting visit to a government-owned jade factory, we strolled for an hour past monuments and pavilions in the place where feng-shui (wind and water) dictated that the emperors of the early Christian Era should build their tombs. Actually the tombs themselves occupy an area about six kilometers around this spot, but this entryway is still maintained and has been restored after being damaged by the Red Guard in the Cultural Revolution. Some of the tombs have been unearthed, and the bodies inside were found to be in a remarkable state of preservation. Yet in a country whose recorded history goes back six thousand years, walking among tombs a mere two thousand years old seems like nothing unusual. That’s the thing about China—everything is unusual. In this country the extraordinary, the bizarre, the different is the norm. That’s why China is China. Everything about it is remarkable.Read more

  • Day 18

    Becoming a Hero

    October 21, 2019 in China ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    There is a stone stele bearing an ancient inscription standing at the base of the Great Wall of China. It says, “You’re not a hero until you have climbed the Great Wall of China.” Ancient Chinese soldiers would recite this to one another when they were stationed at this remote string of fortresses separating China from the Hsung-nu barbarians to the north. Many battles were waged along these ramparts since 221 BC. Occasionally the wall was breached, as when Kublai Khan broke through to establish his Mongol Empire in China.

    Today we were not fighting, but rather enjoying a wonderful day with beautifully clear skies and the sun in exactly the right place for photographs. We spent over two hours of free time climbing up, climbing down, practicing Chinese, talking to children and soaking up some of the most glorious mountain views in the world. Glenda gets extra points for doing this with a nagging case of plantar fasciitis. But the morning was made for exceptional memories.
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  • Day 18

    Kung Fu Fighting

    October 21, 2019 in China ⋅ ⛅ 46 °F

    We saw an action-packed show tonight incorporating martial arts and choreography at the Red Theater in Beijing. The Lenged of Kung Fu tells the story of a little boy whose mother gives him to a Buddhist monastery to be educated in the ways of Kung Fu, China’s ancient school of defensive martial arts. He overcomes his own fears and fantasies to wean himself from the attractions of the flesh and eventually becomes the abbot of the monastery. Great color and music made this show a wonderful night’s entertainment.Read more