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  • Day 17

    Coffs Harbour to Nambucca Heads

    November 25, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    No kangaroos today.

    However, Coffs Harbour was delightful. We walked up to the headlands, up a big hill that was the nesting ground for shorebirds I think they were called. They make their nests in the ground (see pic with all the holes) and their area is a protected habitat that happens to be the headland in Coffs Harbour.

    I am running out of words to describe the natural beauty of the Australian coastline. Stunning, beautiful, magnificent, awe inspiring, outstanding, heaven-like (that one only used for Port Stephen’s, where I thought it could be what heaven looked like, if I believed in it).

    Coff’s is an international harbour, and had a lovely harbour area with over 50 types of fish living in the harbour alone - even a stingray (vid attached). After fish and chips where the fish was caught that day apparently, we headed to our stop for the night (another Ellis/Connor recommendation), Nambucca Heads.

    I remember now when I was booking the accommodation for this night, it was a bit tough to find something decent, I thought it was because it was all booked up already. Apparently not.

    Nothing wrong with this small holiday town, insanely gorgeous coastline with incredible views every which way. It looks like a movie set it’s so pretty. We found Shelly’s Beach, there was barely a soul on it (lightly raining) but we could not let the rain stop us from a spectacular walk. It was quite rocky with enormous flat rocks embedded into the sand but looked very similar to petrified wood with what I think were veins of quartz running through them.

    After that, we headed down to the main area for another coastal walk, with the walkway protected from the ocean by enormous rocks. Over time, people have decorated the rocks with paint and drawings, messages recording their trips in Australia, messages honouring past loved ones, and generally uplifting comments. In my ‘professional’ world, it is called placemaking and it really did make the place special!

    We stayed at a place called the Beach Rooms. Recently renovated and very clean, just a little lacking in amenities, but made up for it with the view over the ocean, which we can see from our bed.

    Despite being told by Cath/Neil and Cheryl separately, that Australia does not offer a decent curry, we decided to try one in Nambucca Heads anyway. I think all Aussie Brits need to try a curry house in Western Canada because when they return to Australia, they will think their homeland version is delicious. The curry tonight was by far the best non-UK-based Indian meal I have ever had. Proper onion bhajis, lovely tikka masala (Wade) and a veggie version for me. The only slightly weird thing was the naan contained what I think was mozzarella cheese!? A small price to pay.

    Here we are again, it’s 9pm and we are showered, in bed, and sleepy. Tomorrow is our 18 year wedding anniversary and our final night on the road will be spent in Kew, after visiting another Ellis/Connor recommendation, a waterfall nearby. Then we are at back at Cath’s for the final few days of the trip.
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