Final day on the bikes

We had pre-ordered breakfast so we were packed and ready to eat by 630… the food was delicious (omelette, fantastic coffee and baguettes and fresh fruit) but the service was a bit haphazard – never mind, I really liked this hotel, the pool was great and the rooms were cool and comfortable.
Heading out at about 0715hrs our first leg was 20km to the pepper farm “La Plantation”. The day seemed a little cooler although there was some wind. Initially we had sealed roads but then lest the bitumen and headed down some attractive unpaved roads through the country side, fantastic views of farms and salt fields as we made the gradual climb to La Plantation. The farm is a certified organic sustainable agritourism business – with a social conscious. Started less than a decade ago by a French couple, the farm aims to restore the Kampot pepper trade which was lost under the Khmer Rouge. The farm grows pepper, chillies, turmeric, lemongrass and has plantings of mango and bananas being established. The have water buffolos … which they use to manure the crops and make an organic pest control when combined with a local herb. We were given a tour of the farm and learned all about pepper growing and harvest. We also had a chance to taste and buy some pepper.
Back on the bikes the second leg was another 20km… back tracking down the unsealed road the utility of the traditional Cambodian Khema cotton scarf. Woven in a checked pattern, the scarf has seen a lot of use while riding, sun protection, sweat band, head cooler, towel, wash cloth and today dust mask as we shared the dusty roads with a hoard of trucks. However we soon seemed to cut through on the back roads and emerged on the main sealed road to Kep. Kep is a coastal town which was founded in the early 190’s by the French as retreat from the heat of Phnom Penh. Today it is known for it’s beach and it’s crab market and it was the latter we headed for when we arrived at about 1200hrs. we wandered the bustling market which again had a very local feel (think cluttered, dirty, bustling and loud – it was ACE). Some of the groups were a little cautious but others were up for it … I tried squid sticks, prawns, fish pancake with pickle, coconut cake and a doughnut all washed down with local beer – delish!!!
The final leg of the day was advertised as 20km (but was closer to 25… Liar liar.. pants on fire Brett… just kidding) we started on the bitumen and then followed a series of unsealed roads down the coast. The area was quite exposed and the wind a little stiff which was VERY annoying but by the same token at least it was cooling coming off the sea and the views were amazing. We continued until the road just stopped… it literally just stopped with no explanation. Then it was time for what Brett calls single track riding… through fields, paddies and salt pans on rutted tracks about 6inches wide before we emerged on a deserted stretch of beach were we could rest in the cool of a shelter for 10 minutes – it was just lovely. From there it was a little more of the same until we reached a scruffy little fishing village and then turned inland for a few kms before emerging on the main road… from this point it was about another 7km to the boarder with an “almost” tailwind – waa hooo!
The Boarder marked the end of the ride for Deb and I and 2 other participants while Brett and 5 others were bid farewell and crossed the boarder into Vietnam. I felt sad to see them go – I don’t want to ”get off the bike”.. I wish now that I had signed up for the full trip to Saigon… ah well… I’ll just have to start saving for the next trip!
We ducked into the Casino (Vietnamese money and “hostesses” in abundance there!) and I was amused when the security guard tried to make me go into the men’s toilet ….. hmmm clearly I have to work on my image… perhaps I should start wearing more pink!!. Then it was onto the bus for the 3 hour+ drive back to Phnom Penh and Mito Hotel… which turned out to be definitely more than 3 hours and a rather unpleasant experience with crazy traffic, a non-airconditioned, bus, cramped conditions and no “happy room” breaks… but thank heavens we made it at last!
Arriving at Mito Hotel we were met by Sam, a Tik-tuk driver friend of Hoem’s who will take us for a tour tomorrow and who will also drive us to the airport on Sunday. Then check in quick shower and out to dinner.
We decided to have another go at Palm Sugar (the Phnom Penh branch) the place was deserted and having got used to happy hour cocktails we couldn’t come at paying a whole $5 (with no rooftop ambience) so we had a glass of wine each (Australian merlot!) go with a delicious shared meal of shrimp cakes, green mango salad and Khmer fish curry. After our meal we headed off to the FCC for a cocktail at the rooftop bar accompanied by lime and pepper ice cream for me and mango and ginger for Deb. After one drink, and sick of the thumping from the bar across the road we went for a wander to Le Moon, where we had another cocktail (and a heap of water – I think we were both very dry!) while enjoying the roof top ambience and the great views of the river and then it was time to head back to the hotel and bed!Read more