AustraliaVictoriaGreater GeelongCorioLimeburners Creek38°3’28” S 144°25’31” E
July 1, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C
Why is it that departure day is always crazy – I think I have been “running” mentally or physically since I got up at 6:15am … but then there have also been periods of stagnant …. frustrated … waiting. Started with a couple of hours in the gym, last minute shopping, finally packed my bag, cleaned the house (kind of) and then of course the post on the chat forum I’d been waiting for went up today and I was derangedly trying to book interviews related to my PHD while making Kombucha and trying to find my passport and visa photos…. Aaarg.. finally made it to the train… and then then Skybus to Avalon… queuing…. queuing …. queuing to bag drop… pat down (ewww) by security because my belt doesn’t detach from my trousers and finally in the departure lounge for the first leg of the adventure – Air Asia flight to KL. It’s a pretty rubbish airport really – red wine and banana bread ……. Waaaa whoooo !!!!! Dinner of championsRead more
MalaysiaKuala Lumpur3°8’12” N 101°41’41” E
July 2, 2019 in Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
After boarding the Air Asia flight and taxiing half way to Geelong (or so it felt like) we were up and away… as flights go it was fine.. a little cramped (I wouldn’t have wanted to be a large person) and the plane was a little “tired” looking – but hey it didn’t fall down. There was a beverage and some kind of allegedly vegetarian food stuff and then I think I might have managed to sleep for several hours because the next thing I knew they were announcing that we were an hour out of KL. A vigorous landing and we were disembarking on time at about 4am local time… security checks (more pat downs (because of the belt situation) and now it’s a surprisingly good espresso and a cookie (to use up the Malaysian currency and I need a caffeine hit) before a 6am boarding for the 70 minutes flight to Siem Reap… it’s getting exciting!Read more
CambodiaSiem ReapPhum Vihéa Chĕn13°21’4” N 103°51’11” E
July 2, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ 🌧 24 °C
So heading out of KL in a lightening storm didn’t seem a great option but apparently the pilot was worried and all in all it was a pretty smooth take off and the turbulence wasn’t really bad once we were up above the clouds. It was a 2 hour flight to Siem Reap which I mostly dozed through and then airport formalities were quick and easy, the visa took less than 10 minutes, ditto passport control, by which time my bag was there, immigration and bang out the door into 26 degrees and humidity. Arranged a SIM for the phone and then it was into a Tuk Tuk for the 15 or so minute drive to the hotel which is really quite pleasant with a nice pool and good aircon.
After sorting myself out at the hotel I decided to go for a wander down the river… I soon found the Old Market – which is a mixture of wet market and tourist stuff – it was fascinating to stroll up and down the stalls – they seem to sell everything from tourist T-shirts (Cambodia Beer in an XL for Sam – check!) to Chicken feet and heck of a lot in between. I purchased a couple of scarves and then found a café where I could eat Yam Crisps and sample a couple of the Angkor beers – very nice. Deb rocked up after a while and we sat and chatted and watched the world go by for a bit and then made our way back to the hotel to drop off the shopping and organise circus tickets for tonight.
We then went for another stroll around the area, visiting Sister Srey a social initiative cafe for a coffee and delicious smoothie bowl and then a temple, a handicraft market, the institute for Khmer studies and an artisan’s workshop. By then it was after 4 and so we headed back to the hotel for a quick dip in the pool – refreshing but not really warm enough to linger.
I had been recommended “Sugar Palm” Restaurant as a great place to eat – run by a returned refugee (she fled the Khmer Rouge, lived in NZ for years and has now returned is an running 2 restaurants serving traditional Khmer food) – an boy was to great. Local beer, satay tofu and a fantastic fish curry….mmm Deb had a tofu curry and a couple of ginger mojito’s – delish!
Back to the Hotel just in time for the Tuk Tuk to Phare Circus – a great social initiative which provides free artistic training (2000 students so far) in music, dance, visual and circus arts. We met 9 other fellow cyclists there and saw an amazing show, the athleticism of one performer in particular amazed me. But by 9.15 pm I was ready to call it a night – it is after midnight back in Australia, and it’s been a while since I saw a proper bed.. anyway time for mine as another big day tomorrowRead more
CambodiaSiem ReapPhumĭ ChâmpeiPrêk Thum13°34’9” N 104°6’27” E
July 3, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
I had forgotten the south-east Asian propensity for REALLY hard bed – so it wasn’t the best nights sleep but still lovely to be able to stretch out and lie down in a real be not a aeroplane seat. Breakfast at the hotel was simple but quite nice – freshly cooked omelette and the usual selection of fruit, pastries and the like and then at 07:45 it was off to reception where we were met with our guide for our visit to Kulen Mountain
It took about an hour to get to Kulen (which means Lychee) Mountain and the another perhaps 30 or 45 minutes to drive up it – the area is a national park about 48 or so km from Siem Reap and has a maximum elevation of 487m. It was used as a sandstone quarry for many Buddhist carvings across Cambodia/
On the bus trip we learned that roofing material in this area of Cambodia must be either blue or red my Government mandate and that …
One of the highlights of the visit – on what was a VERY soggy morning - was viewing the statue of the reclining Bhudda at the Pagoda of Preah Ang Thom which was built in the 16th century and is over 8m high. Religion in Cambodia seems to be an odd mix of Bhuddism, Hinduism and Spiritualism (land, water, air and fire) plus a dash of ancestor worship or at least veneration and hence we were also shown what are known as Linga which are Hindu symbols meaning a complex combination of life-death/decay-fertility/mother-father. There are 1000 carved into the rock which is the bed of the river. We also walked to a couple of lovely waterfalls .. the second being 25 metre high and safe for swimming. However I have to be honest when I say that although I would have quite liked a swim, I really couldn’t be bothered with the whole wet bathers … getting changed palaver afterwards and so decline to jump in… it wasn’t cold, just kind of rainy and tepid.
After the temple and waterfall we headed down the mountain with a brief stop at a place where you had great views of the mountain. There were also lots of large red, legged centipedes (which the locals like to catch and roast apparently – ew!) and beautiful butterfly’s which were challenging to photograph.
Back on the mini bus it was off to lunch… to be honest I was hoping we would be taken to some “local” eating places owned by a friend/relative of the guide but we ended up at the very generic tourist restaurant – the food was fine (Khmer fish curry) but … yeah… just not what I was hoping for.
Back in Siem Reap we had a formal “team” meeting at 1600hrs – great to see Brett again after almost and year and meet the “team” with whom we will be riding. There was the handing out of Jerseys, a general briefing and then the fitting of the bikes – they are mountain bikes and mine is a bit old and I hope it will be ok – the set up isn’t great but I think it will ok (fingers crossed).
After “happy hour” 2 for one drinks and a bit of work (2x local beers for USD $3 also inc beer nuts) we all met in the lobby at 1845 for the minibus to Marum Social Enterprises Restaurant where we enjoyed a most delicious and filling meal (although I confess to NOT eating the beef and ant salad… but only because of the beef!) …. To quote their website
Marum is run by Kaliyan Mith, an NGO that has been working with street children and other marginalized young people since 2005 in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Marum features a winning mix of creative local cuisine, and is named after the Moringa, or 'Tree of life' - very appropriate, as customers will be enjoying a fantastic dining experience that helps build a new life for the students in training there!
Absolutely satiated we waked back along the river … past the numerous street vendors … to our hotel ready for bed and an early (0445hrs) start cycling to Angkor Wat for the sunrise.Read more
CambodiaSiem ReapPhum Spéan Thmei13°21’19” N 103°51’23” E
July 4, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
I like to Wat.. was a phrase we heard a bit today.. one of our guides (Mr Brad Pitt) likes the word play.. Wat means temple or pagoda and we certainly liked to wat today too.
It was an early start.. 0445hrs at the front.. onto the bikes and off on the 7km ride (in the dark) for the sunrise at Angkor Wat.. we had our passes (which have to include your photo) so we were pretty much straight in and the fact that it is now the low season meant that there were relatively few people… however the weather bit not play nice so there was no sunrise… well obviously the sun CAME UP… it just didn’t do it in a particularly spectacular or attractive way. We were very lucky to have a great guide who took us all around the amazing complex and told us all about the history of the 900+ year old temple ….. Angkor Wat is a temple complex in Cambodia and one of the largest religious monuments in the world, on a site measuring 162.6 hectares. Originally constructed as a Hindu temple dedicated to the god Vishnu for the Khmer Empire, it was gradually transformed into a Buddhist temple towards the end of the 12th century…. The super structure was built from local volcanic rock and then clad with stand stone mined at Kulen Mountain (which we visited yesterday) this was transported 65km down the river and then across country in what must have been an amazing feet of logistics which took some 39 years.
After several hours wandering we headed off to a café for breakfast which was quite welcome – Deb and I had a breakfast box from the hotel which was a tad bread heavy – the fare at the café would have been better… although I do have to say that the coffee was great!
Then it was bike for an approx.. 3km ride to Ankor Thom Wat – this was a smaller temple but part of a larger complex. The name means “Great City” and we visited the the centre of the city which is Jayavarman's (the King who did the building – in rather a rush apparently) state temple, “the Bayon”.
Here’s what we learned about it… it is a richly decorated Khmer temple at Angkor in Cambodia. Built in the late 12th or early 13th century as the state temple of the Mahayana Buddhist King Jayavarman VII…. Following Jayavarman's death, it was modified and augmented by later Hindu and Theravada Buddhist kings in accordance with their own religious preferences. The Bayon's most distinctive feature is the multitude of serene and smiling stone faces on the many towers which jut out from the upper terrace and cluster around its central peak. The temple has two sets of bas-reliefs, which present a combination of mythological, historical, and mundane scenes. We had a great wander about before jumping back on the bikes
The next leg was 6.4km to Ta Prohm Temple – this involved ridding some narrow, off road trails through the “jungle” which was a little challenging for me – I still haven’t quite got used to the bike set up. We had a photo pause at the “gate of the Dead” and then it was on to the Temple which is apparently famous because it was used in the movie “Lara Croft Tomb Raider” built in the Bayon style largely in the late 12th and early 13th centuries and originally called Rajavihara it was built by King Jayaraman VII as a Mahayana Buddhist monastery and university in honour of his mother and his religious mentor. Unlike most Angkorian temples, Ta Prohm is in much the same condition in which it was found: the photogenic and atmospheric combination of trees growing out of the ruins and the jungle surroundings have made it one of Angkor's most popular temples with visitors. UNESCO inscribed Ta Prohm on the World Heritage List in 1992. Today, it is one of the most visited complexes in Cambodia’s Angkor region… and basically it was pretty cool.
Next it was the 13km (approx) ride back to the hotel complete with an episode of pelting down rain for the last 5 minutes. A quick clean up and then we headed out to a local massage place were we paid $10 USD each for an hour massage – delightful! And then wandered 350m down the road to “New Leaf Eatery” which is a social enterprise café. Again fantastic – I enjoyed a green mango salad and a Khmer Iced coffee – yummo, while Deb had smashed avo with tofu and a fantastic coffee.
The afternoon was spent at “This Life Cambodia” and NGO doing some amazing work with young people in the province. We heard a great presentation about the work they do – particularly the domestic violence campaign for which they won an award – this is a link to their website: http://www.thislifecambodia.org/. we also visited their vocational training workshop (braving the crazy rush hour traffic on our bikes)
Back to the hotel for a refreshing shower and “Happy Hour” before heading off to Hoem’s house for tea and a fantastic home cooked Cambodian meal. It was lovely to enjoy the food and conversation and to receive a Khmer scarf as a gift.
Returning to the hotel we headed out to “Pub Street” where we enjoyed a “fish foot spa” and then a drink (Amaretto for Deb, Italian Coffee with Amaretto for me) at the “Red Piano” rooftop bar, while enjoying watching the street life pass by. A banana crepe on the way home and now bed is once again calling as it will be an early start heading off to Battambang.Read more
CambodiaBattambangPhum Bêk Chan13°5’18” N 103°12’31” E
July 5, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
After a restless night it was up at about 0600hrs to get packed and ready to depart. Breakfasted … we were ready to go by about 0715hrs on a sunny and humid morning. We headed out of Siem Reap on some fairly busy roads to start with, sometimes sealed and sometimes not, intermittent roadworks and mud added to the challenges. We soon found ourselves travelling through the jungle and past small villages, at time quite boggy and muddy. After a while however the area opened out to rice fields being grazed by water buffalo.
At about the 20km mark we had a toilet and water break before heading down the river for a few km. The track was relatively good at this point although muddy at times.
I forgot to mention yesterday that when the sun came out in the late morning there must have been a mass butterfly hatching as we seemed to be riding through clouds of bright yellow, blue and black and white ones much of the day (until it rained). Today however it was dragonflies in abundance.
After a few more km’s along the river we got to a village where although the road was no longer passable for the bus, the river wasn’t high enough yet for boats. We therefore had to get our stuff from the bus and rode the final few kms to the village where the small boats were located. The track was really quite rough and a bit slippery so care was needed and it was a bit of a slog (and we were quickly quite mud splattered).
At the village we were allocated 4 boats, one exclusively for bikes and the other 3 for people AND bikes – a max of 6 – 7 people per boat. In these we traveled initially down canals and then down a larger river. We passed other crafts with locals coming back to their villages with produce or fish as well a couple of small settlements with fish traps and crocodile pens.
The village with the big boat was much larger and had many floating homes built on bamboo rafts which can cope with the wet season floods where the water can ride by 5-6 metres. We were not going to Lake Tonal Sap (the largest lake in SE Asia as the water was still to low… apparently the water flows out of the lake in the dry season and into the Mekong, but interestingly the flow reverses in the wet season and the Mekong backflows and fills the lake. At the big boat village we had a chance to visit a small NGO shop, view some crocodiles in a pen and purchase a DELICIOUS iced coffee – then it was all onto a “big boat” .. which was quite literally just big enough for us all.. with the bikes on the roof .. for a long trip down the rivers towards Battambang. The river was fairly wide with thick beds of water hyacinth on each bank. The stems and flowers can be eaten and they are also used for weaving (as in the baskets at the NGO) … it was a bit of a long trip and there was time to read, snooze and have a bit of lunch….. and then…. and then… the wheels fell off and I no longer like water hyacinth which I see as the beginning of “the end” or should I say the start of the not so enjoyable bit of the day…
We had been travelling for maybe an hour and a half when to a bit of a grotty village, it kind of smelled a bit off, stagnant and the water was dirty and there was lots of floating rubbish .. the reason for this soon became clear as the water really wasn’t flowing well due to the channel being totally blocked by the vigorous water plant. The “plucky captain” decided to try to ram his way through “a la icebreaker” and is the best tradition of the polar exploration wasn’t so much frozen as completely stuck in a thick tangled mass of floating vegetation. The stuff is so thick that even though the water was 2 metres deep the crew and 2 of the guides sank only up to their waists as they tried to free us from the tangle – nasty green snakes notwithstanding. I am not sure how long we were stuck there but there was lots of backwards and forwards ramming (as in the classic icebreaker move) and poking with long poles. The engine had the guts revved out of if so much so that the radiator cap shot off and water was splashing over the deck… finally however we were free and on our way. By this time however the sunshine had changed to icy winds and thumping down rain. We had a clear dilemma. The path was clearly going to be impassable to the van but equally difficult for bike riding as the mud was reported at being at least a foot deep in places. However despite the wet the river level was sufficiently low as to make the passage of the boat tricky. AND added to this Brett (the Aussie tour leader) clearly has the flu complete with chills and rigors and wasn’t really in a fit state. Soh took change brilliantly … we traveled onto the usual drop point where noodles and Oreos were accessed for those who needed them and then we continued on upstream albeit slowly and with one sandbar type incident.
It really was a very long day on the boat and we were all very relieved when we met up with Hoem by the river bank. By then it was well after 6 and rapidly getting dark and with 22km still to go into Battambang and a 8pm dinner reservation we were into the van and back to the hotel. Quick shower and then off to Jaan Bai restaurant for the most delicious dinner. Another social enterprise venue, the name Jaan Bai, means “rice bowl” in Khmer. The restaurant is an initiative of CCT and the Feel Good Coffee Group. It provides skills development and employment for Cambodian youth, with a share of profits going towards CCT’s child protection and community development work. The food was superb.. although it did seem a little rushed .
The back to the hotel as we have to be at breakfast by 0630hrs for a 0700 departure ……Read more
CambodiaBattambangPhumĭ Banăn12°56’42” N 103°8’30” E
July 6, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
Not the most fantastic hotel with thin walls and a shower that flooded the bathroom every time it was used …. However that being said the bed was soft and the balcony provided a place to dry the washing. Breakfast was a self serve affair with a selection of hot foods, fruit and Cambodian cakes including a nice sticky rice with banana and some toffee doughnuts.
Battambang (pronounced “Bong”) is a French colonial city and some people say it is the second largest city in Cambodia. Bang means rice and this region of Cambodia grows the most and the best rice in the country, as a consequence there was the highest “killing field” death rate as many city dwellers were worked to death in the rice paddies during the civil war because the Khmer Rouge wanted to grow lots of rice which was then sent to China in exchange for guns rather than feeding the people. We set off on the bikes for the 25km ride to the Banan Temple. On the way we crossed an interesting suspension bridge and then stopped for a rest and learned (as we could hear the music for a wedding) all about Cambodian dowries, and the cost of weddings (from $4,000 upwards with an upper class wedding up to $80,000 as they like to party. Weddings are an expectation, with eloping not acceptable to the community) as well as the fact that around 50% of marriages are arranged. The groom to be lives with the inlaws for two years but cannot so much as hold the girls hand. We rode on for a while before stopping at a road side stall where the ladies were making baked rice. The rice is mixed with coconut and red beans and then packed into bamboo, the ends of which are plugged with coconut husks and the result baked on a slow fire for about 3 hours, the bamboo is a natural preservative and the result lasts about 3 days – it was sweet, tasty and filling!
About another 7 kms saw us at the temple, Phnom Banan was an Angkor era temple built around the end of the 11th Century. It has 5 towers (the central one with a men’s shrine) and is built at the top of a 400m mountain being reached by over 350 steep steps. Buntrey promised the first person to the top a beer… but has so far failed to deliver! The view from the top was somewhat restricted by trees but one could catch glimpses (maybe of Thailand mountains only 100 km away) and the breeze was lovely. Buntrey explained the process of how one gives a donation to the monks at the shrine and then has their fortune read by praying with some cards in one’s hands and then placing them over your head and poking them with a stick… Deb had a go at it and the outcome was that people were talking about her with jealousy and envy because of her job …. but because there was no monk involved it may not have actually been true. We also talked about the civil war, Phol Pot and the fear that freedom of speech is being eroded in Cambodia with recent media closures and an emerging fear of public criticism of the government.
We walked back down to the bikes and then headed off back to the city with a stop on the way to view the fruit bats. We were riding at rather a fast clip (approx. 23-25km/hr) and I was starting to get sore, fortunately is was not alone in feeling the speed and the last section back to the hotel was done at a more modest and comfortable 18-20km/hr. Overall the roads were mostly sealed and the terrain pretty flat so it was a quick and easy ride even on the relatively heavy bikes.
Back at the hotel for a shower and pack and down in the foyer by 1300hrs. We were then taken into the city centre for lunch – 12 of us got hustled into Soh’s favourite local where we enjoyed various noodle and stir fry dishes (I had morning glory with seafood, steamed rice and a soda for $4 USD) while Deb and Laura ended up on the upstairs balcony of the “White Rose” next door which was very nice too. Post lunch Soh took us to his favourite ice cream shop where a small cone with Belgian Chocolate ice cream was a $1 and a lovely end to the meal. Then it was back on the bus for the drive to Pursat.
Just before the city we stopped to visit another NGO. Sustainable Cambodia works with families of rural villages to help them achieve sustainability and self-sufficiency through education of children and families and the provision of clean water via a program of water tanks and water filtration units at affordable prices … we were shown around including the library and the works were they make the water tanks and a demonstration of the water filters. They also run “girls days” were girls are taught all about menstruation and periods and provided with a reusable menstrual kit – I was impressed by the practical level at which they work.
Then it was on to the hotel where we quickly took our stuff to the room before heading down to the pool for s very quick swim in the lovely warm and large pool. The back upstairs … super quick change and down to the foyer to meet with Jo to go for dinner. Buntrey had recommended a bar on the river (101 Restaurant and Bar) as having good Khmer food. It was certainly an interesting cultural experience. The menu was in English (well kind of) and very few of the staff had any English either (phone and “google translate” appeared at any request and mime was in abundance). Drinks were a struggle unless you wanted a large esky of beer and there was lots of mime going on with regard to the meals (clearly we would have done a lot better with one of the guides with us to translate). Interestingly the meals came out one at time with poor Jo having to wait until last. The also gave us each a dish of condiments with each plate that came out. I finally realised that the Cambodian culture is that all food is shared but individual condiments is clearly the go to allow for “double dipping”. Oh well it didn’t matter, we had a great evening and the food was pretty good too and at $18 for the 3 of us who can complain.
Back to the hotel for a pre-mixed Mai Tai and a massage for Deb… and now I am thinking it must be bed time as we have a long (75km) day tomorrow… I had a chat with Brett re the kids fanging it and pushing the pace so hard and I think he has the matter in hand … fingers crossed.. it’s about enjoying the journey too!Read more
CambodiaPhnom Penh11°33’53” N 104°55’21” E
July 7, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
It was a bit confusing waking up this morning and a couple of the team noted that they weren’t sure what city they were in as we really didn’t spend much time in either Battambang and Pursat and the hotels were both much alike, large, generic and noisy – although the pool and the breakfast were better at the latter one. An omelette with chilli tofu, tapioca pumpkin porridge and a pastry with water melon Jam and of course good strong coffee was a perfect start to the day.
We were in the bus just after 7 for the approx. 3 hour drive to the starting point. Buntrey, who is from Phnom Penn, told us a little about the city which will be our home for the next 2 nights (Hotel Mito here we come) and which has a population of 3 million. It is becoming a modern city with skyscrapers (Chinese and Vietnamese money) and is seen as being very exciting to the young people
Buntrey, who grew up in a rural background, also told us about growing rice. Before the wet season starts the chaff from the previous crop is burned and the field is manured, then when the rains come the soil is broken up. The paddies are pumped dry and the seed sown. After about 6 weeks the field is flooded for 2 days then the rice is thinned and the seedlings are transplanted into a semi-flooded paddy (approx. 30 cm apart). The crops are watched for pests (snails and rice crabs), spray is avoided where possible as it is believed to be not good for health. Short term rice takes 3 months, medium term rice takes 5 months and then long-term rices takes more than 6 months, the sort term rice is mostly for wine and the other 2 are eaten. The harvested rice is then dried and generally half is sold and half is kept for the year’s food. Jasmine rice is the favourite variety as sells for about $1 a kilo.
We had a coffee and “happy room” break along the way and then finally met up with Hoem, Brett and the bikes at a little before 1100hrs. Quickly organised we set off on what was a very sunny, humid day of about 32-35degrees. We were traveling on fine gravel roads and were soon riding along the bank of a large river, passing through a number of villages – it was interesting in that some were relatively clean and well maintained and the roads weren’t bad, others seemed messy, rubbish filled with scruffy looking houses and the roads were generally quite rutted at this point. We rode for just over an hour (say about 17km) before we met up with the van again and enjoyed jack fruit, bananas and some nice cold water by the river bank. A local shop provided a “happy room” for the ladies but the blokes had to use the bushes as there were snakes around apparently.
We continued on following the river and intermittently enjoying sections of lovely smooth concrete road… at about the 27km mark we arrived at a kind of “truck stop” café cross between a mini-mart and car repairer where were served a basic rice and curry type number with the option of a fried egg on top….and could also access various drinks and a toilet. At about 1315hrs we headed back out. From here the track was a bit rough, mostly unsealed and at times marred by mud and pot holes, other times unsealed but with numerous fist sized rocks which shook the bum and rattled the wrists .. we also had to take our bikes through the middle of a wedding reception which was in the process of being set up across the road in a marquee… apparently blocking the road so as to hold weddings, religious ceremonies or death rites (celebrated at days7, 30 and 100) is quite common.
Finally we hit the sealed road and continues on to some random street corner where Hoem met us with the van and water and we were able to sample fried banana and sugar care juice from the vendor also located nearby. By this point we were at the 50km mark and had another approx. 20km to go … refuelled it was back on the bikes and off down some back roads heading into the city – the first 8 or 9kms was gravel and via some villages but after that we were heading into the city and were riding some pretty major roads for the final 15km into the centre of Phnom Penh, it also started to get quite windy with intermittent rain but it was a tailwind and that combined with the smooth concrete surface meant we were able to complete the 15km leg at a pretty fast clip ending up at the ferry port in short order.
The crossing of the Mekong took less than 15 minutes and we were soon off loaded. However this seemed to be the signal for a storm to enliven our afternoon. It wasn’t cold, but the term “monsoon downpour” seems inadequate to describe the volumes of water that was cascading down out of the sky onto us as we rode the final 4km to the hotel.
Soggy is an understatement .. but suffice to say we were pretty damn wet when we finally arrived at Mito Hotel in Phnom Penh is so much of an understatement … water was pouring out of my shoes with every step and basically the term “drowned rats” could have been applied to any of us with accuracy. We checked in and headed up to our room to organise, shower, change and unpack before heading back down to the bar (which incidentally can’t cope with a request for cocktails or even a glass for the beer you have just bought). We chatted and had a drink while waiting for the whole team to arrive… including a couple of newbies who are doing the Phnom Penh to Siagon leg.
At about 1900hrs we headed off the Romdang Restaurant another NGO training venue … Romdeng celebrates the good things in life – family, food and tradition. Plating up truly traditional recipes to creative Cambodian cuisine, the restaurant is located not far from the hotel in a beautiful colonial building surrounded by a lush garden and swimming pool,
We had SO much delicious food… OMG!! The evening stared with a chance to handle live Tarantuala… sadly however they were then taken away and deep fried and returned with chilli sauce for dipping (eww … I couldn’t come at that) and then it was crickets and frogs legs fried as a crispy “beer” snake. Then various salads, stir frys and curry’s including an amazing tofu Amok… mmmm so so full
Deciding we needed to kick on for a bit we to a tuk tuk to the Foreign Correspondants club for discount cocktails “happy hour” and chatted on the rooftop bar over looking the river for a while before Deb and I took the 1.4km (as per google maps) walk back to the hotel… we’re not riding tomorrow so it will be a tad more relaxed……!Read more
CambodiaPhnom PenhPhum Ti MuoyTonle Sab11°33’50” N 104°55’53” E
July 8, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
No riding today so we were able to have a relative sleep in… up at about 0645 for some yoga and then down to breakfast – not particularly elaborate but certainly adequate. At about 0800 we headed to Friends International where we had a detailed presentation about the work they do supporting children and their families. They work holistically with at risk children, putting in place strategies to keep kids at school or in vocational training … the spectrum of their work may include health care for children and their families as well as employment support for parents or care givers so that they don’t need to pull their kids from school. We then took part in an “amazing race” scenario via 4 tuk-tuks around the city and with the focus of the work of Friends. I really wasn’t my thing as it was hot, the traffic was insane and I was starting to feel sick by about half way through. We were finally done and returned to the Friends “complex” where they have a café, ethical store and training facilities.
After briefly browsing the shop Jo, Mike, Deb and I headed off to the central market where we sampled some Bang Chow (which are just like the Vietnamese Banh Xeo) and doughnuts. The market was massive and rather overwhelming so once we had eaten we headed back to the hotel via a supermarket (unsuccessful quest for Sam’s beer and cigarettes).
At 2pm it was time to head out again, this time it was to visit S21 which is the genocide museum in Phnom Penh, chronicling the Cambodian genocide. The site is a former secondary school which was used as Security Prison by the Khmer Rouge regime from its rise to power in 1975 to its fall in 1979. From 1976 to 1979, an estimated 20,000 people were imprisoned at Tuol Sleng (the real number is unknown). Tuol Sleng was just one of at least 150 torture and execution centres established by the Khmer Rouge, though other sources put the figure at 196 prison centres. At any one time, the prison held between 1,000–1,500 prisoners. They were repeatedly tortured and coerced into naming family members and close associates, who were in turn arrested, tortured and killed. In the early months of S-21's existence, most of the victims were from the previous Lon Nol regime and included soldiers, government officials, as well as academics, doctors, teachers, students, factory workers, monks, engineers, etc. Later, the party leadership's paranoia turned on its own ranks and purges throughout the country saw thousands of party activists and their families brought to Tuol Sleng and murdered. Those arrested included some of the highest ranking communist politicians. Although the official reason for their arrest was "espionage", these men may have been viewed by Khmer Rouge leader Pol Pot as potential leaders of a coup against him. Prisoners' families were sometimes brought en masse to be interrogated and later executed at the Choeung Ek extermination center. In 1979, the prison was uncovered by the invading Vietnamese army. In 1979/80, the prison was reopened by the government of the People's Republic of Kampuchea as a historical museum memorializing the actions of the Khmer Rouge regime. It really was rather confronting.
After a couple of hours there (the audio guide was very informative) and the conclusion of the afternoon’s rain storm Deb and I headed back towards the river, passing the independence monument, a couple of temples and the royal palace. We ended up at “5 Drunk Men” Skybar. This was a funny place which was accessed via a secret door behind a giant been can. Up to the 3rd floor we sat and enjoyed some beverages while overlooking the river and watching Phnom Penh go by.
We were so relaxed that we had to walk VERY briskly back to the hotel to be ready for the 7pm departure to the Khmer BBQ restaurant. This involved the food being cooked on a propane grill at the table … they did seafood and fish for us which was very nice. After tea Deb and I found the local ice cream shop (accessed via a chemist obviously!!) and enjoyed some Durian and Coconut and Durian and Mint Chip ice ream as we walked back to the hotel to pack for our 0700hr departure on a 65km ride.Read more
CambodiaTakeoPhumĭ Trâpeăng Sdŏk11°11’3” N 104°50’6” E
July 9, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
We were heading out from the hotel at about 0845 thus morning.. a slightly diminished group. 8 participants where finishing in Phnom Penh.. however we have been joined by 3 new ones so it was a party of 9 setting out into the morning rush hour. It was a bit crazy at times dodging and weaving amongst the bikes, motor bikes, cars and trucks. Mostly the riding was pretty easy being down main roads out of the city and so we didn't really take a break until the 27km mark when we turned off on a side road and enjoyed water and fruit at a small shop.
Suitably refreshed and rested we continued on what was developing into a warm and windy day. We travelled on through villages .. the roads were quite variable.. sometimes smooth, other times quite rough with big rocks, occasionally muddy and once in a while sealed (bliss.. my butt was feeling it!). The next rest break was at 38km at another stall, where we had more fruit and drinks. Shortly after we stopped again to visit a family who weave silk. As we pulled up one of the new participants took a tumble .. coming down hard on knee and hip.. bruised and grazed.. and cross.. but fortunately nothing more serious.
The process of silk weaving is intensely time consuming.. a sarong takes for than 10 days to weave working 5-6hrs a day. The family had some scarves to sell asking only $5 each for them. They would have been lucky to have received $2 for them and the they are sold on for $30 in the shops.
We carried on riding through villages and rice paddies at one stage even taking single track paths through the rice paddies themselves. A brief water break the and it was off down some narrow tracks along a river and passing more fields and paddies.. it was a little hairy at times with potholes and ruts but we eventually emerged from the at my a ruined temple.. still used as evidenced by the offerings but essentially untended. We had a wander about for a bit before tackling the final few kms to lunch and the end of a 63km day.
Lunch was cooked fresh at a "truck stop" type restaurant.. I very much enjoyed my stir fried veggies with an egg.
After lunch we climbed the 420+ steps to visit Prasat Phnom Chisor which is an ancient Khmer temple, sometimes referred to just Phnom Chisor) located on top of the hill. The temple was built in the 11th century of laterite and bricks with carved sandstone lintels by the Khmer Empire king Suryavarman I, who practiced Brahmanism. It was dedicated to the Hindu divinities Shiva and Vishnu. On the east edge of the mountain, at the back of the temple, there you can see a vast plain of surrounding rice fields and countryside, looking down to the east could see an avenue that forms a straight line connecting to Sen Thmol Temple, the now heavily grown ruin we had visited earlier.
We made our way back down the steps and then it was on to our bus for the tribe to Kampot.Read more
