Sutri 20 miles

One of the benefits of being a tad dehydrated is that I didn’t feel the need to go into the other couple’s bedroom to relieve myself during the night. Don’t think it would have helped any of us sleep afterwards.

Part of the fairly standard routine when arriving at each accommodation is being told how to leave. Where the keys should be put, essentially. Didn’t happen here. Suspect she wanted to leave before I passed out. Wasn’t at my liveliest yesterday. Anyway I didn’t think anything of it as I just left the keys hanging up and left. Or tried to. The apartment’s door just pulled shut behind me. The building’s door locked itself behind me. All very standard. Then I reached the locked gate. Could not see any way to release the lock from the inside. Felt sure there must be a way but I couldn’t for the life of me see how to do it. And of course I now couldn’t go back in to get the keys as the door was locked. It was only 7.15am and I didn’t feel like waking the whole building by banging on the door.

Just had to break out by climbing over the security gate. Not that difficult as I could climb up on something and then swing a leg over, remembering to make sure my rucksack came with me. Would have been more comfortable with another couple of inches on my inside leg measurement. But no permanent damage done, I think.

I had been really pleased to have got this far on the Via without resorting to paracetamol and ibuprofen, as they had been my best buddies last time. I probably haven’t taken any ibuprofen at all since then and only a couple of paracetamol each year. But by midnight I had decided that needs must if sleep was to be achieved and, more importantly, if I was going to be able to walk the next day. I know that the advice is to keep moving if you have a sore back but I’m not sure if walking 20 miles carrying a rucksack would be considered overdoing it. Worked a treat as far as sleep was concerned and seemed ok to begin with as I vaulted the gate and walked to the bar for breakfast. But then it seemed to regress. Popped some more pills and that seems to have done the trick. No more than the usual discomfort at the end of the day.

Today’s walk very much in 2 halves. The morning was walking up a large hill, almost Munro height, mostly in woods. And then the afternoon was walking down the other side. Very straightforward except I got a bit lost in the morning. I wasn’t on the proper route as I was taking a shortcut to save a day. And the path just petered out. No sign anywhere and the ground cover included some quite unpleasant thorned branches. Shorts were not ideal. Or short-sleeved t-shirt. Then I heard voices. First thought was bloody hunters but it wasn’t the weekend and they sounded like the fair sex who surely don’t go round shooting things. Anyway I headed for them and found two ladies thrashing about in the undergrowth, seemingly as lost as I was. Except they were dressed sensibly and were carrying dinky little wicker baskets. Hunting for mushrooms. We had the usual sort of discussion where people have a conversation despite not having any common language. All I got from it was they were firmly convinced that I was nowhere near the Via Francigena. After a while I managed to locate a path of sorts and went on my merry way. Met more mushroom hunters including 2 guys in full camouflage outfits together with standard issue wicker baskets. I suppose they wear the same every day but during the week they have a basket and at weekends a shotgun. And it does mean the mushrooms can’t see them coming.

Finished the day in a completely different state from yesterday. One of the main differences was simply the timing of lunch. Yesterday I had to eat just before 12 which meant that by 5pm I was empty, very hot and dehydrated. Today I reached somewhere just before 2. So I only had a couple of hours more to do afterwards. Made all the difference but these things aren’t in my control.

Lunch included a mortadella, Philadelphia and pistachio sandwich. New combination for me but really good.

In a great apartment tonight. Massive. 2 double bedrooms, large living room/dining room and a bathroom big enough to host a small party (although it would be an odd place to hold a party I’d have to say). Unlike last night there wouldn’t have been a problem if another couple joined me although I’m really pleased not to share.

Dinner tonight included a starter of assorted things battered and deep-fried. Don’t know what they all were but enjoyed it nevertheless. Followed by the usual pizza.Read more