30 Nov. Maafushi to Ghuraidu

Now isn't this much better?
I'd always had the cunning plan of backpacking around Sri Lanka for three weeks, followed by some well-earned R&R in The Maldives. The suntan only shows on the uncovered bits, but it's nice to get a bit of sun wherever I can get it.
Maafushi is the second in a line of three main islands just south of the main island that Male City sits on. Male isn't big at all. I walked more or less from the north shore to the south yesterday. Just like most capital cities though, it's not really geared up to be an exciting travel destination. That's why most people skedaddle off to the smaller islands.
Being a bit short of days left before I have to head back to Colombo for my return flight, I decided not to venture far into the outer atolls. Two reasons: it takes hours by boat - even speedboat - and the accommodation costs can be horrific. Maafushi then Ghuraido were my choices.
In some ways, the Maldivians are a relaxed bunch when it comes to organisation/scheduling. There are huge issues around when/if the ferry will run, at what time, and whether the weather has had any effect on anything. On the other hand, the locals in Maafushi are definitely keen to get the tourists/travellers to part with as much money as possible while they're on the island. Ghuraido has quite a different feel, and I think I like it for that.
Being unsure of the cheap public ferry was ever going to turn up, I plumped for an $8 speedboat ride from Maafushi to Ghuraido. That's about six times the cost of the public ferry. Ah, well, at least I got there.
Blimey, it's quiet, and tiny. It has streets with normal shops, and schoolchildren wandering around. The beaches are almost empty, and the water... oh the water. It is actually that turquoise-green colour, fading to slate grey-blue further out to sea. The sunshine today was blissful: just a tiny shower but gorgeous.
There were plenty of 'gin palaces' moored off-shore, so the island's got a slightly yet-to-be-developed, scruffy air about it with only a few restaurants or cafes.
The place I'm staying in has been the most expensive place on this trip, by about 4 times. It's also the best by a margin.
Aaah, The Maldives. I can look out across the lagoon to the 'over-water straw huts on stilts', reserved for the well-heeled honeymooners. They're enjoying the same sunshine and showers as I am, and this evening's sunset, which was pretty good too.Read more