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South America 2024
  • Gavin Wilson

South America 2024

Avoiding extortionate electricity charges in the UK by travelling through South America during the winter of 2024-25. Read more
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  • Trip start
    November 6, 2024
    Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler

    Setting off from Brompton 6th Nov.

    November 6, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    And he's off again.
    After a hearty breakfast of grapefruit, porridge, coffee and the usual tablets, the bus to Northallerton is calling. Then the train to Manchester Airport (ugh.) for the flight to Heathrow and on to Bogota, Columbia.
    Most likely, I won't get a chance to update this until I land in South America - hopefully Bogota.
    We'll see.
    Fingers crossed.
    This could get edgy...    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler
    It had potato, yes but I think there was eel in there. Take that Rick Stein.1

    Bogota, 7th November 2024

    November 7, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ 🌩️ 18 °C

    My first full day in Bogota was a tiring, beflummuxing experience. True enough, I hadn't gone on an intensive 'learn all you can in a day/Spanish for idiots' course. It wouldn't have sunk in anyway.
    Arriving early in the morning didn't help. I grabbed a few hours sleep in between watching films on the plane - the new 'Dune', and 'Everything Everywhere All at Once'. Both good in very different ways. I'd read the first two Dune books back in the '70s. The first one good, the second not very.
    Bogota is big on graffiti, it has to be said. It seems like every flat surface is covered in garish scrawls, and some wobbly ones too. The artistic merit of said scrawls is, shall we say, dubious or a matter of taste.
    The traffic is bad, bad. I'm thinking of wearing my Covid mask tomorrow.    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler

    Bogota 8th November 2024

    November 8, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Sadly for me, everywhere including the bus stops seems to be a tidy walk away. I'd decided to recce the route from my digs to 'Terminal Salitre' - for the bus to Medellin. Eventually I got there and through trial and lots of errors I bought my ticket for 11th Nov.
    The traffic here! How do they cope? It must be all they know 'coz it feels like madness. The buses (the best way to get around I'm told) are completely confusing so that I'll never work them out as long as I'm here. Asking a friendly stranger is the only answer.
    With a lot of help from a kind young lady, and a lot more faffing and fuffing, I managed to get my weary bones to the 'Museo del Oro'. The Gold Museum deep in the heart of the old town where I can even see the cable car high in the mist.
    The museum is actually very good. It has the glitziest gift shop of anywhere I've ever been. Well run, photography no problem and it's even free for an old chap like me.
    There were plenty of 'characters' knocking about in this part of town. Eccentricity seems to be valued and supported; from rappers and hawkers on the buses to 'social misfits' in the streets who actually fit in nicely, thank you very much.
    Blimey, I keep getting lost. It's lost its charm now. After a glass of fizzy beer in the Irish pub across the road, I'm glad to get back to my bedroom.    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler
    Obligatory shot of man 'resting' on the late bus - one more for my collection.

    Still in Bogota, 9th Nov. 2024

    November 9, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    I was determined to give my aching feet a rest today. Yes I'm getting a tad more familiar with the illogical and confusing bus system, but it's hard work and seems to always involve a lot of walking between stations and where I want to be.
    My plan was to 'nip' to the main bus station again to book my bus ticket for tomorrow to Villa de Layvas (looks interesting - done). Then I also planned to do the cable car trip.
    Oh well, the best laid plans etc. The sky turned grey, then black, then the rain came down in torrents.
    So I decided to divert to 'Distrito Graffiti' / Graffiti District. At least the rain slackened off and the light held. It's manly an industrial area with huge factory walls for the 'graffittists' to let rip. Impressive.
    This was today's highlight, then back on the Transmilenio system for the return journey to my bed for the remaining two nights.    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler
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    Villa de Leyva, Colombia 10th Nov. 2024

    November 10, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I decided to get out of Bogota today and travel to a small town with a big reputation locally, Villa de Leyva. It's got historical significance and seemed to be a 'must see' place near-ish to Bogota.
    It was well worth the effort.
    I had to get an early bus from the main terminus in Bogota. The bus was typically cramped, the ride was horrendous - pot-holes, crazy driving on dodgy road and around land slips after the rains. But we got there in more or less one piece.
    Villa de Leyva is quite small but amazing well-preserved. A date on a key-stone on the bridge over the main stream was carved 1572.
    To my mind, the town shares a resemblance to Trinidad de Cuba - if you've ever been there. The streets are 'paved' with large stones that keep the traffic to a necessarily slow speed.
    I really liked the place: touristy but not spoiled, visually interesting in the stormy weather.
    The journey back was much smoother, quicker and less bumpy if anything. I got chatting to a German man in the bus station. He's an airline pilot for Lufthansa taking some time out between flights. We had a really interesting natter that made the miles flow by quicker.
    Back in Bogota, the dark, dismal and rainy weather was just as bad as yesterday, so I decided to turn in for the night rather than visit the local bar that seemed packed with people spilling out onto the street around some 'stand-up' tables.    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler
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    Last Day in Bogota, 11th Nov.

    November 11, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    As it's my last day in Bogota before travelling up to Medellin, here are a few observations/thoughts:
    The Bogota Columbians appear to inordinately like graffiti, bread, dogs not cats, and avoiding silence whenever in public places. The buses frequently get invaded by people selling a sob story and things such as little sweets, or providing 'entertainment' with karaoke machines to demonstrate their emerging music and performing skills.
    And as for the food... Most things seems to have been cooked in oil. Well, they're an oil-rich country after all.
    The majority of people have a curiously international scruffy-urban dress sense. Think sports casual and slashed jeans, trainers and hardly ever shoes.
    And although I've already said it; they really, really can't have enough graffiti on everything.
    Today I was mainly getting 'funiculared'. The weather was so miserable (another downpour was always on the cards) that I had to find something slightly indoors to do. Either the cable car or funicular railway up to the top of hillside Monserrate. The queue was much shorter for the funicular so I left the 'cable car experience' until Medellin.
    It was pretty good - even the clouds opened a bit to let some sun shine on the drenched punters.
    Back at my digs later I'd left plenty of time to grab my rucksack, take the shot of a couple have dinner in the back of their VW Beetle, and head for the bus Terminus.
    That was Bogota then.
    Onwards!    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler

    Medellin, 12th November

    November 12, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    How people arrive in Medellin is already an interesting experience. The bus ride is a long un, but time to catch up on sleep at least.
    As it's located almost completely in a valley, Medellin looks geographically contained but spreading up the surrounding hillsides (mainly favelas).
    After a short walk with the rucksack I managed to find my digs for the next couple of nights without much asking of kind people on the way. How should I describe the area? Shabby chic with most of the chic worn away through use? Some might call Medellin 'trendy'. It often gets voted one of the most 'liveable' cities in the world. 'Quality of life' seems to come high on the ratings. All this is a bit overstated - Medellin's improvements post-Escobar are amazing, but a lot of districts have a grubbiness that's hard to cover up with trendy coffee shops and the like. On balance though, Medellin's absolutely fascinating and much more enjoyable to be in than Bogota.
    I did a bit of exploring around the local area - got refused entrance to Museo Antioquia to see paintings by Fernando Botero (maybe tomorrow), and made it out with a struggle to 'Comuna 13' that the guidebooks recommend. Think a less American-plastic version of Haight Ashbury in San Fransisco. The place doesn't seem like it can work, but it gets ridiculously crowded anyway. Having a cable car station contributes to the business.
    Cheap? You bet.
    An unlimited journey whilst on the bus / tram systems in either Bogota or Medellin: c. 35 pence. A dodgy meal in an average restaurant: c. £1.50.
    Once again, the food was a bit 'stodgy', but I suspect if you use the restaurants the American tourists go to, things might be different. I ate with the locals and it was fine.    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler

    Medellin to Guatape rtn. 13th Nov.

    November 13, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Today was a day for getting out of the city and seeing another bit of Colombia. I got a 10am bus to Guatape, which gets good reviews as somewhere worth visiting.
    The journey was another mad dash over pot-holed roads in a bus that must surely need some suspension work. We wen via a really nice looking town called La Piedra, picking up random passengers as usual along the way.
    Guatape.
    The central attraction is a granite rock outcrop that can be climbed up by a staircase. I did the first 300 (counted 'em) steps to the base with all the touristy shops and ticket booths. Apparently, there's 708 steps up the zig-zag staircase to be tackled. I asked a coming down, and they told me it was worth the climb but just for the view.
    When the afternoon black clouds started rolling in as usual, I changed my return bus ticket an caught an earlier one back to Medellin.
    I have to admit it, even walking around at night, Colombia seems pretty safe to me. Dinner at a restaurant local to my digs (both not bad this time), and it was just about time to turn in.    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler

    Last day in Medellin, 14th Nov.

    November 14, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Today was both my last day in Medellin, and an overnight travel day to Cartagena. There were a couple of things left to do in Medellin - before I could 'tick it off'.
    The cable cars that form part of Medellin's public transport system are a cracking idea. They allow people living in both the poorer areas (and the favelas) to easily get around town. It was a typically grey day, but the ride was well worth the approx. 50 pence it cost.
    Later in the afternoon, I went hunting for a plaza that the people in Medellin are quite proud of: A major artistic figure to come out of the city is Fernando Botera. His paintings and sculptures of comically large human figures (real and imagined) are apparently influential and lauded. I thought of a contemporary British artist, Beryl Cook. I'm not sure who might have influenced who, but Beryl died before Fernando.
    That's it. The day was almost over: Food at a nice cheap cafe, pastries and a coffee in another small cafe with a couple called Fransisco and Tatiana, and a last ice cream. A mad dash back to my digs to collect my rucksack, and a walk to the bus terminus - just dodging the afternoon rain (again).    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler

    Cartagena, 15th Nov

    November 15, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    I knew, I knew it. It was always in my mind that I was going to like Cartagena (pronounced 'cart ah hay nah' - I'm learning). After the smog and bustle of Bogota and Medellin (good fun though it was), I was looking forward to some all-day sunshine, clean air, and the breeze off the Caribbean Sea.
    The bus from Medellin got me in at a sensible hour, in good time to find the local bus into the city centre and my digs for the next week, at least. It's not a bad place, scruffy but really well located.
    Looking around Cartagena for the first few hours, it looks just my kind've place. There are almost as many 50 ft catamarans to be seen in the harbour/marina areas as in Tivat, so I feel right at home. The people are. friendly, the air is clean-ish, and apart from the predictable rubbish in the water the city seems to be more comfortable and generally prosperous than the average Colombian city. It's great and I'm enjoying it already.
    I took a stroll down to the ticket booths for the boat trips to Islas de Rosario for the palm-fringed Caribbean beaches etc etc. These islands get so 'hyped' I just had to find out the options. Sadly, the reviews on Trustpilot are almost universally negative - the most common word used was 'ripoff'. But I might have a cunning plan B. The manager in my hostel is organising a small trip to one of the other beaches, and I might get out to the other islands even yet.    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler
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    Cartagena, 16th Nov.

    November 16, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Up with the larks and a hearty breakfast in the cafe area. It's strange, but the food is beginning to look and taste the same - regardless of whether it's breakfast, lunch or dinner. Still, it's very cheap and 'filling'.
    Today was about exploring the old town areas, and I wasn't disappointed. Cartagena has a lovely feeling about it: colonial yes, but a relatively genteel air to it. There seems to be more money here, with less of a sense that people are either just getting by or worse.
    I really like Cartagena. The people seem really pleasant on the whole. The weather is just about right: 30-32 degrees, sunny and dry - without the regular afternoon downpours of further south.
    I'll wax lyrical about Cartagena, and Colombia in general, in a later post before I move on. It deserves a deeper analysis.    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler

    Playa Blanca, Cartagena, 17th - 19th Nov

    Nov 17–19, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Sorry, so sorry to anyone who still checks on my travel progress and might be wondering where the devil he's got to.
    It's just that I've been a bit off-grid - left both my phone and MacBook in my room (and having a good time it has to be said).
    I got an offer that was too good to miss from Jay, the owner/manager where I'm staying to join him, his partner and their friend who helps ruin the place in a Taxi ride to Playa Blanca. This is a spit of land jutting south-west of Cartagena leading to a small town called Barú.
    Apparently, the local government have chosen not to provide services to the area, so it's a bit of a 'hippy', beach commune complete with small entrepreneurs and people getting back to a 'simpler' way of living. All of the buildings are just a few steps from the Caribbean Sea and it's absolutely gorgeous.
    We stayed the last two of nights with a couple, Juan and Eva, in there 'to be completed' restaurant with rooms. Yep, it was damned basic but kind've fun for a couple of nights. We barbecued food on the beach, swam several times a day, drank and chatted (me mainly listening) until the fab sunset had long disappeared.
    On 18th I had a dive with PADI instructor/buddy Taiwana from Ecuador. Pretty good visibility at 10 metres. Felt good to be back underwater
    Great times, great people, great memories.
    The boat ride back to Cartagena was a drenching, diesel-fumed hell-ride, but we survived.
    I hope the attached photos do the place justice.    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler

    Cartagena, 20th Nov.

    November 20, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Today was spent mainly mooching around Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas. As castles go, it was pretty much okay. The tunnels under the fortifications look mighty worrisome. The cells look like the worst kind've solitary confinement. Lazy time the rest of the day.
    Right then. As I'm leaving soon, it's time to put down a few thoughts about my time in Cartagena.
    Put briefly, I've had a really great time here. The people are friendly, it's safe to walk the streets - even at night - the occasional hawker of trinkets and fruit/drinks are not too pushy, and I haven't been poisoned. However, you wouldn't choose to come here for the gastronomy.
    Perhaps as a reaction to the horrendous image Colombia had for several years as the international hub for cocaine tom-foolery, the Colombians have become noticeably nice. There are lots of people in uniforms around; police, security guards in most buildings and random people regulating behaviour - at least on the surface, to the untrained European eye.
    Cartagena is a fascinating place for lots of reasons. It's Colonial, often war-ravaged history is everywhere to be seen. Whilst Drake and the Spanish did their best to plunder the area until nothing was left of the original culture, that seems to be forgotten as pragmatism and just getting on with making a living has boosted the city's confidence.
    There's a certain amount of wealth hereabouts: nothing like the wide disparities between the few 'haves' and the many 'have nots' I saw in Bogota. This means that some of Cartagena's areas feel a little like some parts of Spain - with a Caribbean twist. I like it a lot.
    The weather feels like the Caribbean, and some of the beaches out of town confirm this. The afternoon storm showers are a hassle, but they pass.
    If I could wave a magic wand and improve Cartagena with one small thing, it would be to increase the number of people doing litter collecting. It goes on, but not much. The Cartagenans (and elsewhere in Colombia) often make positive noises about their 'eco ambitions', and pride in their city's appearance, but this is probably just another example of marketing hype for the tourists but with little real action.
    It's as trendy and Bohemian as anywhere I've yet been in Colombia. It's also been my favourite place so far on this trip.
    Favourite ice cream? It has to be the Mojito.    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler
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    Cartagena, 21st Nov.

    November 21, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    This was my last full day in Cartagena and I needed a quiet one to recharge my batteries. After a calm morning trying to catch up with in between water cut-offs and Internet stoppages, I returned to an area I'd not explored before called Getsemani. It seemed to be where all the hipsters hang out - so perfect for me to slide into and meld with the crowd. A grid of streets around Plaza de la Trinidad had parties going on, and the usual street sellers keeping the tourists and travellers fed and hydrated.Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler

    Cartagena to Santa Marta, 22nd Nov.

    Nov 22–23, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Not exactly sad to leave Cartagena, but it's been a good visit. However, I need to plough on. It's a huge country, and others await.
    This post will have to suffice for yesterday and today. Packing, travelling, unpacking. You get the picture.
    As planned, on the bus from Cartagena I arrived in Santa Marta at a sensible hour and found my new digs pretty easily for once. I chose somewhere within a short walk of the bus stop - huzzah!
    On the surface, Santa Marta doesn't have much to distinguish it. I had it firmly recommended by one of the guys in Cartagena. It's the places that it serves as a base for exploring, so I'm looking forward to that. Some of the 'organised' trips from Santa Marta are definitely for the well-heeled tourist, so I'll be looking to find cheaper ways to get to 1 or 2 of these.
    A wander around town to get my bearings was still pretty confusing. The Colombian grid system of Carreras and Calles is getting a bit more user-friendly, so something. is sinking in at last.
    First impressions are that it's a 'small town with a big heart': not a bustling, wealthy hot spot set up for the big-spending international jet-setting tourist. So I'm thankful for that at least. I just wish there wasn't so much rubbish in the streets - (I'll shut up about that now, and accept the fact that this isn't Switzerland.)
    If I wanted picturesque poverty, I should've gone back to India. But there's enough hereabouts to satisfy my yearnings for photogenic squalor. I have to remind myself to avoid the tendency that some travellers fall prey to of 'wanting to capture' the 'underbelly' of a country, or to put a gloss on searching out the 'real' breathing life of a place by 'taking only photographs and leaving only footprints'. Hypocrisy on my part? It's not my worst sin I suppose. I just snap with a smile and hope for the best.    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler

    Santa Marta, 23rd Nov.

    November 23, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Santa Marta is growing on me. Whilst the old centre isn't quite as ancient or historically significant as some other places I've been to on this trip, it's got its own 'charm'. I'm sure there'll be more to discover, as I hope the snaps indicate.
    Well, as usual, if I'm not careful, I could eat up a few miles walking around, getting (blissfully) lost and then finding somewhere recognisable to guide me back.
    After checking with the manager where I'm staying (a really nice, friendly chap) I think I've got a good idea where the buses start from to get to the 'must see' places in the area. One or two beaches are within walking distance, but to see the villages where indigenous people still live I'll have to do some travelling.
    All in all, not a bad first couple of days. The people are still friendly and I haven't worn my Covid mask yet.    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler

    Taganga visit from Santa Marta, 24th Nov

    November 24, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    It was time to get out of Santa Marta and see what the nearby spots had to offer. Bravely (foolishly?) I decided to walk from Santa Marta to Taganga. It looks easy on the map, and I quite like walking and photographing on the way - but it was hot today (around 31 degrees but felt higher).
    I don't know if it had something to do with it being a Sunday but people were out to enjoy the heat. The walk started on the flat, then a steep climb over a hill between S. M. and Taganga, then down the other side into a nice looking bay.
    Getting closer, it was clearly going to be busy today.
    Taganga is described online as ' a traditional fishing village'. Oh yeah? There were a lot of fishing boats on the beach to be sure, but weekend tourism was where it was at today.
    Had a good wander along the shoreline, in and out of shops and cafes. Had a swim - a short one as the water was littered with small bits of rubbish, and bought a couple of cans of beer (not great, fizzy but cold) and decided I'd had enough for the afternoon.
    With my earlier bravery waining, I got the bus back. They're damned cheap but you take your life in their hands as the driver negotiates the potholed road and crazy motorcyclists.
    Survived again!    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler
    Members of an indigenous tribe waiting at the bus stop to home.A Colombian cat-in-the-hat.

    Santa Marta, 25th Nov.

    November 25, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    It was obvious this morning that I was more tired than usual. Getting out of bed and struggling to the shower was a bit of a challenge. Maybe I've not been eating right? maybe the constant heat and humidity is getting to me?
    Whatever, I need to get some vitamins and minerals inside me, and I don't think the local fizzy stuff masquerading as beer contains much of either.
    I needed a few more Colombian pesos to tide me over until I move on to Guatemala - 14 days away. As expected, the bank charges somewhere between 5% and 10 % for the privilege at the ATM. Oh well, I'll have to bite the bullet.
    It's clear to me that the Colombians have an aversion for a nice spot of quiet, let alone silence. In almost every shop doorway, mobile drinks/fruit seller and hawker there's a sound system blaring out some informative message + music + Colombian rap. It's pretty incessant and hard to avoid.
    However, after a while, it just becomes the background sound, like elevator muzak.
    I must be 'getting with the flow'. Maybe not 'going native', but at least relaxing into the flow of life here. I'm walking a lot slower (could be the heat) and I don't get half as irritated by taxis constantly sounding their horn in the belief that I must be in need of a taxi ride to somewhere. The calls of 'senior' or even 'amigo' from people trying to sell me something don't bother me as mush as they did. Only the calls from some street urchin on the make of 'bro' get my back up. I am most definitely not your 'bro' sonny Jim.
    This afternoon I retreated to my digs, had a cup of coffee with the manager, and went up to top floor to relax a while. Red letter day: I had my first sit in a hammock that I can remember. (Do you 'sit' in a hammock or 'lie' in one?)
    Answers on a postcard please.    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler
    Santa Marta from half-way on today's walk.
    Playa el Rodadero, beach

    Santa Marta to Rodadero, 26th Nov.

    November 26, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Today was one of those ' I've got a good idea. Why don't I walk to the next town in the morning heat?' There was probably a good explanation why it was so knackering when I walked to Taganga last week.
    Will this boy never learn?
    I wanted a swim, and the beaches near where I'm staying are a bit crummy, so I set off for Playa Blanca, just up the coast from Gaira. It was a bit tough going and I became more and more sure I'd missed the turnoff. Anyway... to cut to the chase, I ended up walking a bit further on and ended up in another Playa, Playa el Rodadero.
    Actually, it wasn't such a bad move. The water was clean, the beach wasn't too busy. It's definitely a place where people in Santa Marta escape to for a morning/afternoon.
    I got the bus back - I'm not completely stupid.
    That was enough expending energy for one day. The streets of Santa Marta just keep on giving. I found even more trendy Bo-Ho cafe and restaurants in an area just a few blocks from where I'm staying.
    One of the shots below shows my latest favourite gelateria.    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler

    Still in Santa Marta, 27th Nov.

    November 27, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Bit of a lazy day today.
    I took a walk to the junctions of two streets where the buses to both towns, Minca and Palomino apparently set off from. It's hard to tell, but I think I've got this right. I wanted to double check on the early start times for when I need to head that way - 30th Nov. for Minca. I'll think about Palomino later when I'm in MInca.
    Apart from this 'exciting' detour I stayed within a few blocks of my digs. It's an interesting area in itself, and there are lots of places for lunch, dinner, snacks, avoiding souvenir sales persons.
    I've been trying my best to photograph a variety of subjects, so that it doesn't get repetitive. The number of (mainly men) sleeping rough - even during the day - seems to be increasing the longer I'm here.
    My excuse / rationale for photographing them is that they're adults (down on their luck or under duress perhaps) and always in public places. I've seen several possible shots of children 'resting' or sleeping, and I've avoided photographing them. Almost universally, I've found the Columbians to be friendly, polite, welcoming and patient with this idiot foreigner.
    I couldn't ask for much more.
    Oh, the food. They'll never win awards for the stuff most Columbians seem to accept. Sadly, the international tourist grub is predictable and overpriced.    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler
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    Still in Santa Marta, 28th Nov.

    November 28, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    It's high time I indulged in a bit of nourishing culture, methinks.
    So off I popped to the Parque Simon Bolivar to hang out with the rough sleepers and assorted culture vultures of Santa Marta.
    The town's main museum (as far as I can tell) is the 'Museo del Oro Tairona located in the Casa de la Aduana. Smack next to the park, it's a modest little museum that sketches out Bolivar's pivotal role in establishing - not just Colombia - but several of the early South American countries: Panama, Peru, Venezuela, Ecuador and Colombia. They didn't live long in those days, but he did a lot in his 47 years of life. ( I feel such an under-achiever.)
    The food's not getting any better, but I'm eating more of it. Aah, but the fruit! They can grow mangos and bananas like we can grow apples. Cheap as chips too - but they can't do chips either.    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler

    Last Day, Santa Marta, 29/11/24

    November 29, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    This was my last full day in Santa Marta, before getting an early bus in the morning to Minca.
    It's been a pretty good visit. I feel I've seen everything I needed to see in the town and its outskirts. Some of the obvious tourist trips I can take in over the next few days.
    By and large, the people have been really interesting. That's perhaps why I've photographed them so much.
    There aren't many photos posted today - Maybe I've been a bit lazy, but I feel I could be repeating myself if I posted more. I've used my small camera for mainly personal work and 'arty' colour shots that wouldn't mean a great deal here, out of context.
    Big news of the day? I got my hair cut by (I think) the apprentice girl. I should relax; she did a fine job.    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler

    Off to Minca, 30th Nov. 2024

    November 30, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Early start today. I set the alarm for 6am and actually woke up way before. This bedroom - no A/C so if I have the fan on, it only blows at a single speed: Gail-force. If I switch it off it's stifling and Im wake up with s moth like the bottom of the budgie's cage.
    Rucksack on back, I'm off to the bus stop, but the ticket office is still locked up at 6:45am. and two Colombian chaps are queuing up to get in. The staff eventually arrive - must be working on Colombian time.
    It's an easy enough drive to Minca - under an hour from Santa Marta.
    Minca is flouted as the hippy, backpacking, back to nature, eco-aware centres for hiking around the northern Andes.
    (Y'know, the Andes - those things on the end of your armies.)
    Straight away I'm liking the look of the hostel I'm booked into called Rio Elemento: On a hillside (everywhere is) gardens down to a stream, bar area next to the pool. But the pool has an added attraction - a dirty great tree at one end.
    Honest, I took lots of photos, honest. (More about this shortly.)
    To get my bearings, I went on a hike, as you do, but chose the long route to a 'waterfall' called Pozo Azul that's well-publicised. ( Not so much a waterfall as a stream running downstream over rocks.)
    Whilst the trees etc., are 'jungley' the hike wasn't much different to, say for example, Ripponden or Hardcastle Craggs: A bit more 'wild' but then the natives in Hebden are sometimes a bit 'wild'.
    Now the sad part...
    Distaster! Wading/scrambling over rocks across a stream, I slipped and put my hand out to break my fall. It was the one holding my camera. :(
    I tried to dry it out, but the viewing screen just flashed and flickered white. Now the darned thing's packed in completely.
    Well, I've removed the SD card and battery and 'fingers crossed' I might be able to get it fixed back in the UK.
    If anyone's bothered, I'm sorry for only being able to attach 4 photos from my phone, but it's iPhone only for the rest of the trip.
    Had as game of dominos with a couple of lads in the bar, went into town for a schwarma and a beer, turned in for the night.    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler

    Minca, Sunday 1st Dec. 2024

    December 1, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    After yesterday's debacle, I reckon I needed a quiet day of chill-axing (or some such) and the weather gods must've agreed.
    The sun is up, the pool looks inviting, the bar is open and breakfast is on the go. I ordered pancakes because I'd seen someone else having them and they looked great - with melon, mango, apple and syrup (I'll work it off).
    Then it had to be a wander around the grounds, a spot of sunbathing, and swim in the pool but, hey, it was cold - no time to warm up overnight.
    This turned out to have been a brilliant piece of planning by me as it turned cloudy by 10am, so I went for a stroll down to the town. Nothing much new to see, so I had a dip in the stream. There's a stretch of fast-flowing water around yet more rocks right in the town centre. Blimey! cold again. I'm getting soft.
    Back at the ranch, I ordered lunch using my resident's wrist band, which will tot up my purchases to be paid for when I check out. I had spaghetti with chicken, pesto and pine nuts - the best meal I've had in all the time I've been travelling in Colombia.
    Now I know the weather's not been its best back in Blighty, and I checked the UK weather forecast - it's predicting -7 degrees! Ouch.
    Well, it's not been a great day here either. The afternoon got greyer and greyer, then the thunder and lightening started, then the rain came. Yeah, I know we're on the edge of the Amazon and it is jungle hereabouts, but will my travel insurance reimburse me for having to get a shower and put on trousers and a long sleeve shirt?
    The day feels like it's almost gone at 6pm. I hope I've got enough interesting photos to attach - jungley scenes around the hostel.
    Aah, the tropics eh? No wonder it's so green.    Read more

  • Gavin WilsonSouth America 2024Traveler

    Minca, 2nd Dec. 2024

    December 2, 2024 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Hiking and more hiking: that's Minca's u.s.p.
    After a lazy-ish day yesterday, it's time to hit the trail again: The waterfall called Marinka, if I get the route right (maybe lost in the jungle if I don't). I shouldn't worry, there are quite a few others going that way.
    The thing about this jungle stuff is that it needs lots of moisture and a bit of heat. Columbia's got that in spades.
    Where's Tarzan when you need him - there are yer actual cliched vines hanging between trees just waiting for someone to swing between.
    Their entrance charge for getting up close and personal with the waterfalls isn't too bad at 160,000 Pesos (about £3.00). Asking a few young gals coming out if it was worth the money, they all agreed. So I got issued with a wrist-band such as you'd get in hospital and went in. Usefully, the wrist band had an emergency number printed on it - presumably so that anyone finding the body attached could ring someone to come and collect it. A couple of random men hung around, possibly doing lifeguard duties, or ogling the girls in bikinis.
    There were kind've two waterfalls actually - the bottom one for a nice refreshing swim - and loos/rooms to get changed in. The cafe wasn't much to write home about but I had a hot chocolate anyway (small portions, average).
    Green, green everywhere. This really is the northern tip of the Amazon rainforest. I can hear birds calling that I know not what, the bamboo must get up to 100 feet, and strange flowers the likes of we don't get outside a florists in posh Northallerton.
    I managed to wade a couple of streams going there and back, got wet at the appropriate time and kept dry when necessary. All in all, a reasonably successful morning/afternoon.
    Back in central Minca I found a place to eat - just in time for the afternoon thunder and downpour. Keeping a dry change of clothes is becoming a preoccupation.    Read more

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