Day 12: Nájera

We left Navarrete before dawn aiming for breakfast in Ventosa, about 7 kilometers away. It was our chilliest morning yet, with a brisk wind that had me wishing I’d remembered to move my gloves to my daypack, as my backpack remained behind for transport to our next lodging.

After a little more than an hour’s walk, we found that the final kilometer to Ventosa is as an “art walk.” It was fun to read an inspirational passage and admire poster-sized art along this stretch of The Way.

By the time we reached the Bar Café Buen Camino, we were more than ready to order hearty breakfasts of sliced tortilla (who knew tortilla would vary so much in flavor and consistency from place to place!, toast with jamón ibérico and tomatoes, chocolate filled pastries, freshly squeezed orange juice, and coffees.

We left Ventosa with an energetic spring to our steps, admiring the vineyards lining much of the Camino to Nájera. Many of the vines were dripping with grapes. A few, had already been harvested.

A couple of farm tractors and a few farm vans passed by, kicking up clouds of dust each time.

As we neared Nájera, we chatted with a pilgrim from Brazil who passed us by. It turned out that she was going to Albergue Puerta de Nájera, so we ended up getting to know her a bit more as we waited for the albergue to allow us all in at 1 p.m.

I took advantage of the wait time to get a haircut around the corner from the albergue. I’d opted for a short “Camino” cut before we left home, but it had grown in enough to need a trim.

After checking in—while bumping in to three of our dorm mates from yesterday—we were escorted up two flights if stairs to our shared room. Tonight, we’re in a 4-bunk room. Quite cozy compared to last night’s 12-bunk configuration. This albergue is highly rated, and booked full for the night. The Camino is very busy this year, with an extended Holy Year, plus many who are taking deferred-by-Covid trips augmenting the usual numbers of pilgrims.

So far, we’re having good luck reserving our lodging the night before: a requirement if I’m scheduling my backpack’s transport for the next morning. When we get closer to Sarria, we’ll book those final few nights to Santiago ahead of time. That’s the recommended approach in a “normal” year, given the higher number of pilgrims on the final 100 kilometers, a requirement to receive a Compostela in Santiago.

That’s still quite a ways off for us, so today, after taking a shower, I headed off for a solo lunch while Allan took a restorative nap. Dinner last night did not sit well with him, and rest was more appealing this afternoon than a meal. I, meanwhile, am loving the Spanish tradition of a big lunch followed by a light to nonexistent dinner.

Tomorrow, we’ll head to Santiago de la Calzada, 21 kilometers away.Read more