• 🇩🇪 Bamberg, DE to Potsdam, DE 🇩🇪

    June 29 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Day 7: We began the day exploring the charming old town of Bamberg, known for its preserved medieval architecture and network of bridges that earned it the nickname “Franconian Rome.” The town has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993 and played a key role in the Holy Roman Empire. The distinctive half-timbered buildings and Bamberg Cathedral offered a rich visual history lesson, all bathed in morning sunlight.

    By 10:30 a.m., we hit the road for a long drive northward, stopping midday at Mittelbau-Dora, a former Nazi concentration camp near Nordhausen. Originally built in 1943 to support underground production of the V-2 rocket, the site illustrates the dark intersection of forced labor and wartime technology. Over 20,000 prisoners died here under brutal conditions. The memorial today includes portions of the underground tunnels, barracks, and a museum that documents this harrowing chapter of history.

    Later, we took a short break at Münzenberg Castle, a 12th-century hilltop fortress with twin Romanesque towers. It served as a symbol of imperial power during the High Middle Ages and offers panoramic views across the Wetterau region. A scenic and well-preserved spot to stretch our legs.

    The final leg of the day took us through busy weekend autobahn traffic to Potsdam, where we arrived at the home of friends Ulrich and Heidi just before 7 p.m. We were welcomed with a hearty spaghetti dinner and a cozy evening of stories and laughter—a perfect end to a full day. Being back in their home, surrounded by familiar faces and warm hospitality, was a highlight for all of us, especially Sebastian, who continues to get a deeper look into life with German families.
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  • 🇩🇪Munich, DE to Bamberg, DE 🇩🇪

    June 28 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Day Six: Ruins, Relics, and a Rugby team.

    After a well-earned sleep-in, we hit the road around 9 a.m. and made it to the Rumburg Castle ruins just before lunchtime. The weather was spot on for a little hike—sunny skies, fresh air, and plenty to explore among the crumbling stone walls and quiet hilltop views.

    Next up was Nuremberg, where we made a thoughtful visit to the Documentation Center Nazi Party Rally Grounds. It was busy—there was a speedway being set up nearby—but still a powerful stop. we strolled through the city and grabbed lunch at a doner and kebab shop. Simple, tasty, and exactly what we needed. I found a pinball machine and couldn’t resist playing for 10 minutes, Sebastian picked up a few souvenirs. We explored the grounds of the impressive Nuremberg Castle overlooking the city center.

    From there, we continued to Bamberg to give Sebastian a look at one of our favorite hidden gems—Altenburg Castle, perched above the city with stunning views and that quiet, storybook charm.

    Checking into our hotel turned into a bit of a surprise: a rambunctious German rugby team was also checking in. We braced ourselves, but the hotel receptionist reprimanded them early on, and the evening ended up being relaxed and peaceful.

    Dinner was an unexpected hit—a cozy Italian pizza place tucked in a Biergarten inside a leafy park. It totally hit the spot for our pizza craving. A friendly local couple practiced their English with us, helped us get proper seat cushions, and sharing a few travel stories.

    We ended the night back at the hotel, air conditioning on full blast, and all of us ready for some solid rest.
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  • 🇨🇿Karlovy Vary, CZ to Munich, DE🇩🇪

    June 27 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Day 5: Castles, City Streets, and Catch-Ups

    We started the day with a Czech-German style breakfast at the hotel was hearty, with plenty of meats, cheeses, fruit, yogurts and various breads. Then a
    peaceful walk through Karlovy Vary, where the steam from the mineral springs curled into the morning air. We passed groups of students, probably on a school trip, and couldn’t resist picking up some traditional spa wafers, Lázeňské oplatky.

    Our next stop was Loket, a medieval gem wrapped in a bend of the river. Touring the castle’s torture chambers was equal parts fascinating and creepy—some of those displays were a little too realistic. We wandered the cobbled streets, soaked up the old-town charm, and of course, grabbed ice cream before hitting the road again.

    Arriving in Munich, we made a beeline for the Hofbräuhaus. Lunch was a classic: crusty breads and a pretzel, a sausage sampler, and steins of beer in a buzzing atmosphere full of tourists and locals alike. Afterwards, we explored the city on foot, timing it perfectly to catch the Glockenspiel show at Marienplatz, with crowds gathered beneath the tower as the figures clinked and danced above.

    After checking in and resting our legs, we walked to the Chinese Tower Beer Garden in the English Garden to meet up with our dear friends Meike and Herbert. They’re heading off on an alpine adventure to climb Ortler Mountain in Italy, highest mountain in the eastern Alps. It was great to hear their plans, and catch up with them after their epic tour by bicycle to the southern most tip of Chile. As the sun set, we strolled the gardens together, sharing stories and soaking up joyous energy of friends reconnecting. We are so happy that Sebastian is getting to meet some of our best friends in Germany.

    Back at the hotel, we collapsed into bed—tired, happy, and ready for the day ahead.
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  • 🇩🇪Dresden🇩🇪 to 🇨🇿Karlovy Vary🇨🇿

    June 27 in Czech Republic ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Day 4: Castles, Crafts, and Crossing Borders

    We began the day with heartfelt goodbyes to Nico, Sabine, and their kids, Lucas and Sophie. We set off from Dresden toward Karlovy Vary about 9:00 AM.

    Our first unexpected gem of the day was Frauenstein Castle, perched dramatically on a granite outcrop in the Eastern Ore Mountains. Built around 1200 as a border fortification between the March of Meissen and Bohemia, the castle once protected trade routes and the booming silver mining industry. Although now in ruins, its thick curtain walls and the 13th-century tower house known as Dicker Merten still stand proudly. We climbed through the remains, enjoying the panoramic views that once served as a ski jump slope. We also explored the adjacent Gottfried Silbermann Museum, dedicated to the legendary Baroque organ builder. The museum’s working replica of a Silbermann organ and its intricate mechanical models gave us a new appreciation for the craftsmanship behind these majestic instruments. We even learned the meaning of on “pull all the stops.”

    Next, we wound our way to Seiffen, the famed “toy village” nestled in the Ore Mountains. First mentioned in 1324, Seiffen reinvented itself in the 17th century when mining declined, turning to woodcarving and toy-making as a means of survival D. Today, it’s a living postcard of German Christmas charm—nutcrackers, candle arches, and wooden pyramids fill every shop window. We had a picnic lunch at a small roadside park.

    In the afternoon, we climbed the tower of St. Annenkirche in Annaberg-Buchholz. This towering Late Gothic church, built in 1499, is the largest hall church of its kind in Saxony E. The 78-meter-high steeple offered sweeping views of the Ore Mountains, and we couldn’t resist the urge to (almost) ring the bells. The climb was steep but worth every step.

    Crossing into the Czech Republic, we paused at the border for a quick photo with the Czech sign, one of those small but satisfying rituals of road travel. Soon after, we arrived in Karlovy Vary, a spa town steeped in imperial elegance. We celebrated our arrival with drinks on the hotel patio before lacing up for a five-mile hike through the forested hills above the city.

    Our route took us first to Peter the Great’s Lookout, where the Russian tsar famously rode a horse bareback up the rocky slope in 1712. The viewpoint, now marked by a bust and a restored platform, offered a commanding view of the town’s rooftops and wooded valleys. From there, we continued to the Diana Tower, a 40-meter-high brick observation tower built in 1914. The panoramic view from the top stretched across the spa town, the Ore Mountains, and even into Germany.

    Dinner was at Velkopopovická Karlovy Vary, where hearty Czech fare and local brews hit the spot after our hike. We ended the evening with a gentle stroll back to the hotel, the cobbled streets glowing under the lamplight.

    As the sun dipped below the horizon, Lisa and I shared a nightcap beer on the fifth-floor balcony, watching the sky turn gold and lavender. The day had been full of scenic overlooks, but the best view might have been from the quietness of our balcony.
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  • ⛰️Day 3: Dresden💕

    June 25 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Day 3: Sandstone Wonders and Napoleon’s Shadow

    Our morning began on a sweet note with pastries from a beloved local bakery near Nico and Sabine’s home in Dresden—flaky, buttery, and just the right amount of lemony cream cheese filling. Fueled and ready, we set off on a scenic drive through the rolling hills of Saxony, heading toward one of Germany’s most iconic natural landmarks: the Bastei Bridge in Saxon Switzerland National Park.

    The drive itself was a treat—winding roads, sleepy villages, and lush countryside unfolding around every bend. Once we arrived, we embarked on a 9-mile hike through dense forest and towering sandstone formations. The Bastei, whose name means “bastion,” rises nearly 200 meters above the Elbe River and has captivated visitors for centuries. The original wooden bridge connecting the jagged rock spires was built in 1824, but the current sandstone structure—completed in 1851—still stands as a marvel of 19th-century engineering. The views from the bridge and surrounding cliffs were nothing short of breathtaking. As we lingered above the Elbe, we watched groups tubing down the river and small ferries gliding below, adding a vibrant, summery atmosphere to the dramatic landscape.

    By the time we returned to Dresden around 4:00 p.m., we were ready for a bit of rest. Later, we ventured out for dinner—Asian takeout was the choice of the evening—but not before Nico gave us a mini historical tour of his neighborhood. One of the highlights was a lookout point high above the city, once used by Napoleon himself during the Battle of Dresden in 1813. Though modern trees and structures now soften the vista, knowing that Napoleon once stood there, orchestrating the last of his victories on German soil, gave the spot a stirring sense of presence.

    Back at Nico and Sabine’s, we enjoyed our picnic-style dinner in their garden, surrounded by laughter, conversation, and the warm glow of twilight. One of the joys of the evening was watching Nico and Sebastian get deep into NBA talk (Nico dressed in his beloved Timberwolves jersey)—debating trades, playoff dreams, and especially bonding over the Timberwolves.

    Their children, Lucas and Sophie, were delighted with the gifts we brought—seeing their eyes light up was a moment we’ll all remember. We lingered around the table in the garden, swapping stories and catching up late into the evening.

    It was another memorable day in Dresden, made even more special by reconnecting with old friends. Tomorrow, we cross into the Czech Republic to visit Karlovy Vary—a place Lisa and I pedaled into back in 2022. The adventure continues.
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  • Day 2: Cottbus to Dresden

    June 24 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Day 2: From Pyramids to Palaces — A Journey Through Time and Borderlands

    Our second day in Germany was packed with history, nature, and a few unexpected scents. After a hearty breakfast with our wonderful hosts, Thomas and Negar, we packed sandwiches and hit the road, beginning our adventure in Branitz Park near Cottbus. Designed in the mid-19th century by the eccentric landscape artist Prince Hermann von Pückler-Muskau, the park is a masterpiece of English landscape design. Its most curious features? Two grass-covered pyramids—one of which serves as Pückler’s final resting place, floating serenely in a lake. The air was thick with the pungent aroma of Japanese chestnut trees, adding a strange sensory twist to the morning stroll.

    Next, we headed to Weißwasser, where we climbed the “Turm am Schweren Berg,” a 32-meter-high lookout tower overlooking the vast Nochten open-pit lignite mine. Once a symbol of East Germany’s energy ambitions, the mine is now a stark reminder of the environmental cost of progress. From the top, we could see both the scars of industry and the slow, hopeful process of reforestation.

    After a quick stop at Netto for picnic supplies, we crossed into Poland and explored Dawna Kopalnia Babina, a former brown coal mine turned geotourism trail in the Łuk Mużakowa Landscape Park. The area, once riddled with underground shafts and open pits, is now a peaceful network of trails and lakes. We hiked to a wooden lookout tower and soaked in the surreal view of Lake “Afryka,” a turquoise basin formed in a former excavation site.

    A Polish grocery store provided the perfect opportunity to stock up on souvenir sweets before we returned to Germany and visited Bad Muskau. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to Muskau Park, another of Pückler’s visionary creations. The park straddles the German-Polish border and features sweeping meadows, romantic bridges (see photo of Sebastian with one foot in Poland and one in Germany), and the Neo-Renaissance Neues Schloss, rebuilt after WWII.

    From there, we drove to Bautzen, a city steeped in over a thousand years of history. Once known as Budissin, it was a key member of the medieval Lusatian League and remains a cultural hub for the Sorbian minority. We revisited a charming beer garden Lisa and discovered in 2022 on our bicycle tour, and the three of us wandered through the old town’s cobbled streets, past medieval towers and pastel facades.

    We ended the day in Dresden, dining at a riverside Biergarten along the Elbe. With traditional bratwurst. 🌭 The city center, once devastated by WWII bombings, has been beautifully restored—especially the iconic Frauenkirche and the surrounding Neumarkt square. After dinner, we strolled through the illuminated Altstadt before heading to Nico and Sabine’s for the night. Nico, a fellow traveler we hosted through Warmshowers.org during his global cycling journey, welcomed us warmly into their home.

    From pyramids to palaces, coal mines to castles, today was a vivid tapestry of landscapes and legacies.
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  • We arrived a bit later than planned to be reunited with Thomas, one of our hosts on our bicycle tour in 2022. Thomas‘ wife Negar prepared a beautiful Iranian dinner for us. We are all tired from the journey.Read more

  • ❤️✈️🏡HOME🏡✈️❤️

    October 3, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Final Post: We were up bright and early at 5:30 AM to catch our Uber at 6:15. As we stepped outside onto the dark streets of El Prat, juggling all our luggage and two large bicycle boxes, I checked the Uber app and—yikes—no cars were available, even though we had a reservation. I quickly canceled and ordered another Uber, which would arrive in 15 minutes. When the van came, the driver wasn’t thrilled about the bike boxes and managed to squeeze an extra €30 out of us for transporting them.

    Luckily, check-in at the Barcelona airport was the smoothest we’ve ever had with our bikes. Despite a few extra steps at security, we were through and at the gate in no time. The flight home to Chicago was uneventful, aside from sitting next to an older couple who almost definitely had Covid.

    Immigration and customs in Chicago went smoothly, and Doug picked us up with the McKay van. Between road construction, crashes on the highway, and a dinner stop, we finally made it home around 7 PM. Though we were happy to be back, the familiar “post-vacation blues” lingered in our minds.

    This wraps up our 2024 European cycling adventure. Thanks for following along—we hope you enjoyed the photos and stories. ANOTHER SPECIAL THANKS TO ALL OUR WARMSHOWER HOSTS! ❤️Jim and Lisa❤️
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  • 🇪🇸🧳Wrapping Up for the Trip Home🏡🇺🇸

    October 2, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Our final day in Spain began with a bit more work than planned: my eSIM had run out of days, leaving me without cellular service or WiFi. With no way to get connected, we needed to find a solution to book our Uber. Luckily, Google Maps was still working offline, and it led us to the city library. The slight crisis averted! With the phone up and running again, we scheduled an Uber to pick us up at 6:15 AM the next day, a big van that (fingers crossed) would fit both us and our bikes.

    After that was sorted, we spent the morning strolling around El Prat picking up some last-minute food souvenirs to bring back home to friends and family. Spain had been good to us in that department, and we wanted to share a bit of that goodness. Then it was back to Abraham’s (our Warmshower host who left us the key to his flat as he is in Japan), where the real work awaited: packing.

    Lisa dove into organizing our bags and tackling the task of disassembling parts of the bikes, while I sat down to work on our travel blog, reflecting on these incredible past six weeks. Things were moving along until we hit a snag: a stuck pedal. We didn’t have a long enough 8mm hex wrench to remove it, and with siesta time upon us, most stores were closed. After a brief walk around town to see if we could find a tool, we decided to improvise instead. Before we returned to Abraham’s to rig up a solution, we treated ourselves to some ice cream. Ice cream fixes a lot, but unfortunately, not stuck pedals.

    Eventually, we managed to get everything packed up and organized by 6:00 PM. Despite our confidence that we were ready for the airport, we were still a bit nervous about whether the 6-person van we had ordered would be able to accommodate the bicycle boxes. Hopefully, it would all come together in the morning.

    After a quick FaceTime call with Sebastian, we headed out for an early dinner at Bar Tíboli the same bar/restaurant we had been to the night before. We loved the place, and why not repeat a good thing? As we sat outside on the empty patio, lit by the soft orange glow of the streetlights, we enjoyed the sound of light sprinkles falling on the cobblestones. It was the perfect backdrop for reminiscing about the journey we had just completed. We laughed about the quirky things that happened, talked about how, despite being practically inseparable for the entire trip, we never got tired of each other, and discussed the places we’d like to return to one day and other places to explore: Japan, Southern Spain, Portugal, and definitely some time in the Basque region of the Pyrenees.

    We couldn't help but start thinking about the things we'd have to do once we got home, but quickly agreed to stop that train of thought. This moment was too perfect to ruin with to-do lists. Instead, we shifted to talking about the food we were going to miss and, on the flip side, how we wouldn’t miss the constant smoking and vaping in public spaces. I swear, I’ve inhaled more secondhand smoke in the last six weeks than in the last six years, and it continues at the Chicago airport as I write this.

    The rain picked up just as we decided to head back to the flat, and I joked that it was only fitting, given the amount of rainy weather we had encountered during the trip. But honestly, it felt like the perfect way to end the day—a soft, quiet rain to close out this unforgettable adventure. We went to bed early, ready for the journey home but not quite ready to leave this part of Europe.
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  • ☀️⛰️🏰The Final Stretch!🎆🌇🏁

    October 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

    6:47 / 60 miles / 5,850 ft
    Totals: 2,109 miles ( 3,394 km) / 29 vertical miles ( 46,671 meters)
    A peaceful breakfast at Can Golinon with Asia was followed by another departing that seemed too quick. After 42 days of cycling Our final day would be from Can Golinon to Barcelona, since it was our last day we opted for the more mountainous route versus the coastal route we had taken earlier in the trip on day 1. We had the challenge of climbing to Castell de Burriac, an ancient castle perched above the Mediterranean near Mataró on the route for the day. The climb itself was brutal—sand, loose gravel, and steep gradients that had our back wheels trying to find traction, and at times slipping so much we would need to push our heavy bikes onward. But we made it, and standing atop the summit, looking out over the Mediterranean coastline, we knew the struggle was worth it. We spent nearly two hours soaking in the views, feeling a sense of accomplishment, but there was still much more climbing and difficult terrain to come. Video of climb: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DAmIM4turSQ/?igs…

    With plenty of climbing still ahead, we pressed on, knowing Barcelona was within reach. Our route took us on more tough gravel roads, and at one time on a single-track mountain bike trail through a tunnel of tropical shrubbery. About 11 miles from Abraham’s where he left the key to his flat with his neighbor and our final destination, I had mapped us to a cute snack shop along the sea. I like to find our last celebratory stop ahead of time to make it special. We stopped at the quaint little bar by the beach, where we treated ourselves to a celebratory beer and chips. It was the perfect moment of relaxation after the relentlessly tough day of climbs, tough roads, and a continuous headwind.

    Little did we know, our final miles would have a surprise of their own. As we neared Barcelona, I had us routed by Gaudí's masterpiece the Basilica La Sagrada Famíla (still under construction since 1882), one of the most amazing things I’ve ever seen, some other sites, and up Montjuïc though the nearby gardens. The sun had set and twilight was making the navigation more difficult. Also, I did not know Barcelona’s massive Olympic stadium was on the hill, and we found ourselves riding by the city’s massive (now) soccer stadium, and to our amazement, the streets were flooded with people. Thousands of fanatical fans were gathered to cheer on the teams, their chants from the stadium echoing through the streets. The excitement was electric—an explosion of a firework in the stadium as night began to fall, adding an unexpected intensity to our ride through the streets filled with hundreds of police and other security vehicles’ lights flashing.

    Navigating through the crowds was chaotic. With the light fading and the streets packed, weaving through people felt like a different kind of challenge. But eventually, we found a quieter route near El Prat (a suburb of Barcelona, where the airport is located), away from the stadium frenzy. In the darkness, the city’s streetlights guided us, casting a soft glow over the quiet streets as we pedaled the final miles.

    We arrived at Abraham’s house late in the evening, exhausted but happy, knowing we had completed our 42-day adventure.

    We ended the day after getting settled in Abraham with a dinner of el plato del día, stir fried rice with chicken, and a side of patata bravas.

    From the tough climbs to the unexpected detours, this final day was a perfect culmination to the cycling part of our journey.
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  • 🇪🇸❤️🚴‍♀️Amazing Can Golinons!🚴❤️🇪🇸

    September 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Our journey from Vic to San Pol de Mar began in the cool, crisp air of late September. The morning light gently illuminated the historical center of Vic, casting long shadows across its narrow, cobblestone streets. We took our time, wandering through the charming alleys, admiring the beautifully preserved architecture. The Roman Temple stood as a reminder of the town's deep history, and we enjoyed our morning stroll trying to take it all in. A quick stop for coffee and croissants at a small café gave us a chance to savor the morning. On our way back to Dani’s, we couldn’t resist buying two special pastries to share – a sweet treat before we headed out on the bicycles again.

    We didn’t rush. In fact, it was the latest departure of our trip so far, setting out for San Pol de Mar at 11:30 AM. The weather was absolutely stunning. The clear blue skies gave us an uninterrupted view of the mountains surrounding Vic. The warm sunshine led me to even starting the day without legwarmers on, the first time in over three weeks. Every time the peaks came into view, I’d point to the tallest one and joke with Lisa, “We’re going over that mountain!” She’d laugh and respond with some enthusiastic remark, a playful exchange that kept our spirits high.

    Our first challenge was the Collformic Pass, a steady 9.5-mile climb with a 4.4% gradient. The road was quiet, with few cars, and the beautiful scenery helped the time pass quickly. The autumn colors were just starting to touch the trees, and the air had that refreshing crispness that comes with the changing season. We couldn't have asked for better weather, the clearest skies we’d seen in weeks, and oh that sunshine warming our skin!

    After the Collformic, we faced the Collsacreau, a shorter climb at 3.3 miles, with a gentle gradient of 3.5%. The excitement of being closer to the Mediterranean Sea kept us energized, and before long, we caught our first glimpses of the shimmering blue waters.

    As we descended into San Pol de Mar, we began to recognize familiar sights from when we had passed through nearly six weeks earlier. The town had quieted down considerably, signaling the end of the busy summer season. We took our bikes down to the beach, where the waves gently lapped at the shore. It was peaceful, almost surreal after our long ride, now over 2000 miles. We snapped a few celebratory photos, the sea behind us, marking another milestone in our adventure.

    With time to spare before meeting our Warmshowers hosts, Asia and Jordi, at 7:15 PM, we basked in the serenity of the beach for a while. The soft sounds of the waves and the golden light of the late afternoon made it the perfect end to a beautiful day of cycling.

    At 7:30 after a beer with Asia at a local bar, we headed up the canyon towards Can Golinons. Can Golinons is a serene and picturesque rural farm located just north of San Pol de Mar. Nestled in the rolling hills, it offers a peaceful escape from the bustling coastal town. Surrounded by lush greenery, olive groves, and Mediterranean pine trees, the area exudes a rustic charm. The property is tucked into a quiet canyon, providing beautiful views of the mountains and sea in the distance. With its traditional Catalan architecture and tranquil atmosphere, Can Golinons is a perfect spot for nature lovers looking to explore the scenic landscapes just inland from the coast. The area itself is breathtaking—peaceful, surrounded by nature, and with views that instantly made Lisa and I dream of staying longer. It’s the kind of place that feels like home, and both of us agreed we could easily see ourselves living here.

    The dirt/sand road with its steep pitch offered a fun challenge to reach Asia and Jordi’s haven. We’ve said this so many times throughout our journey, but once again, our Warmshowers hosts were truly amazing. Asia and Jordi welcomed us with open arms to their beautiful historic home. The area and home were developed many years early by Asia, grandfather who immigrated from Poland. His presence is still felt with his unique collection of drinking vessels in the dining room.
    That evening, we gathered around their dinner table for a meal that perfectly captured the essence of Catalan hospitality. Asia prepared a Catalan-style tortilla with eggs, potato, and cheese, along with a flavorful paella, and a crisp green salad topped with fish and other fresh vegetables. We shared both red and white wine, and the conversation flowed effortlessly. It felt like we were reconnecting with old friends, laughing and sharing stories late into the night. Before we knew it, the clock had passed midnight—only the second time on our trip we’d stayed up so late.
    As we lay in bed later that night, Lisa and I couldn’t stop reminiscing about the evening. We reflected upon how we had known Asia And Jordi for almost 2 years. We had planned to stay with them back in 2022 on our trip that was canceled because of Lisa’s unfortunate fractured Pelvis. Because we had anticipated meeting them for so long, there was a deep connection, and we felt right at home with them. Their warmth, the beautiful surroundings, and the meaningful conversations left a lasting impression.
    Our time in Can Golinons was far too short, and we both agreed that we’d love to return. There’s definitely something special about the place and the people, and we hope to visit them again in the future for a much longer stay.
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  • 🇪🇸Back to Spain-3 days left!🇪🇸

    September 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    4:37 / 49 miles / 5728 ft. After enduring 16 or 17 days of rain (honestly can’t remember 😏) and unseasonably cold September weather in Italy, Switzerland, and France, Lisa and I finally left Ornolac-Ussat-les-Bains, FR and embarked on a scenic yet challenging bike ride over the Col de Puymorens, making our way to Puigcerdà in Spain. While we'll miss the wine, cheese, stunning French landscapes, the hospitality of our incredible Warmshowers hosts, and of course the baguettes, the upcoming change in scenery and culture felt exciting. The climb to the pass was beautiful, but also nerve-wracking due to the tunnel closure, which funneled more traffic onto what was usually a quieter highway, and also light mist making the car tires even more noisy. As we were approaching the top of the pass, we observed the snow capped peaks off towards Andorra and to the east. We knew it was going to get colder near the top and it did. Although the sun was shining brighter than we had seen it in the last three weeks at the summit, we did not spend much time there because of the wind and cold. We quickly descended about 5 miles and found a nice little town with shelter from The wind beside a church. We had a nice picnic as we warmed ourselves in the sun. As we rode the last 10 miles into our overnight town, the temperature continued to rise, but we were still quite chilly from the wind, cutting through our clothing, and evaporating the sweat from the climb. We reached our Airbnb about 4:30 PM. After our normal routines, we headed out for a walk around the bustling city center. we were both still quite cold and getting hungry, also nervous that we were not going to find a quiet warm place to our liking. We wandered around the small streets, and then a little hole in the wall pub caught our eye. We were so lucky to stumble upon it! The owner and his sister were so kind and we had an awesome dinner of chicken and sausage gumbo with a side of fried potatoes. Also, about six different sauces for the gumbo and potatoes. After dinner, they gave us a free shot of vermouth to settle our stomach. It’s hard to compare Italian pizza with this, but it is definitely one of our best memories of eating out on the trip! A short walk back to the Airbnb was highlighted with catching a view of the Sunset Over the foothills of the Pyrenees in Spain. Here is a link to a video of some shots and clips from the Col de Puymorens: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DAeNAiBOJHM/?igs…Read more

  • 🇫🇷🚴‍♀️Last Night in France🚴🇪🇸

    September 27, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌫 11 °C

    After starting our day with an omelet prepared by Didier, Muesli with ox yogurt, coffee, bread and honey, Didier chauffeured us on his bicycle to the bicycle trail. We started our day cycling from Saint-Girons to Foix, enjoying the scenic route through the rolling hills from the cycling “greenway” trail. The trail was small gravel and very mushy from the rain. Before Foix we had a brief stop to explore a cave. Then in Foix we made a quick stop at the Friday market where we bought bread, olives for the evening, and some prepared hot food to eat under a tree sheltered from the pesky sprinkling, we continued to Tarascon-sur-Ariège, where we paused for a well-deserved treat of patatas bravas and a beer. Thinking the rain had ceased, we enjoyed the crispy cubed potatoes in the sheltered outdoor seating area. Just as we started eating , the rain began—making it 15 consecutive days of wet weather on our journey. As the temperature dropped and the wind picked up more we sat shivering eating our hot tapas. The consistent bad weather has gotten to the point where all we can do is ride in it and almost laugh. We stopped at a grocery for supplies for dinner and breakfast and then pedaled the last 2 miles to reach our Airbnb in Ornolac-Ussat-les-Bains, FR.

    Ornolac-Ussat-les-Bains nestled in the valley between jagged peaks along the L’Ariège River has a mystical feeling about it, steeped in history, known for its healing thermal baths that have drawn visitors since Roman times. The area is also famous for its Cathar connections, as the nearby caves once served as refuges for this persecuted religious group during the 12th and 13th centuries (A pretty horrific ending to their persecution if you care to research.) Additionally, the prehistoric caves in the region, such as Lombrives, have been inhabited for thousands of years, and some of the cave drawings are believed to be 25,000 years old. Now people still pilgrimage here to possibly be healed of all sorts of conditions. This world definitely be a place to stay longer and explore. Our Airbnb had a toasting fire going were we cozied up too for about 20 minutes to relieve our shivers and warm our toes.

    Post snacks, shower, and getting the laundry started, we took a 45 minute walk around the village. The rain had stopped, and we could catch some great views of the sharp peaks of the towering Pyrenees and see some caves in the rock faces.

    After the walk, we made a nice pasta dinner with mushrooms, olives, and cheese. We sat at the dining room table near the fireplace and chatted with another guest at the Airbnb. dinner was followed by a little more warming our toes by the fireplace, and then we headed off to bed about 9:30 PM. Rain is predicted for tomorrow morning, but we are hoping that will let up before we move on to cross over into Spain.

    Another thank you to Didier and Sylvie for a wonderful stay!
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  • 🇫🇷🚴🥶Rainy Again! 🥶🚴‍♀️🇫🇷

    September 27, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We awoke to a peaceful, cloudy morning at our Warmshowers in Esparros, surrounded by the calm of the countryside, a glimpse of the Pyrenees from our bedroom window, and the welcoming warmth of Kevin and Aude's home. The air was crisp again, but the inside of their cottage was cozy, filled with the aroma of fresh coffee brewing in the kitchen. We gathered around the kitchen island for breakfast—a simple yet satisfying spread of coffee, homemade muesli, yogurt, and apples freshly picked from the fall trees. The conversation flowed easily, and we felt an undeniable sense of connection and community in this little corner of France. It was one of those warmshower mornings that felt perfect and much too short, making it all the harder to say goodbye when it came time to leave.

    Despite the desire to stay forever at Aude and Kevin’s we eventually packed up our bikes and bid Kevin and Aude’s haven in the foothills of the Pyrenees a grateful farewell. Little did we know, the weather ahead would make the day one of our more challenging. As we set off, the skies darkened, and a steady drizzle began to fall. What started as a light shower quickly turned into a discouraging heavier rain, coupled with a relentless headwind that seemed determined to slow us down. The unseasonably cold temperature of about 60°F made the ride even tougher, as we struggled to keep warm with each pedal stroke. At one bicycle trail I saw a French cyclist wearing a facemask to protect himself from the cold weather. The climbs, which would have been a rewarding challenge on a clear day, felt punishing under these conditions, and each ascent was followed by a sketchy, slippery descent into the persentent headwind. The rain made the roads slick, and we had to ride cautiously, our hands numb from the cold, riding the brakes as we navigated the descents.We had been looking forward to this day for its promised beauty—the rolling foothills of the Pyrenees were supposed to offer amazing views, with sweeping vistas and dramatic mountain views. But under the heavy clouds, the scenery was hidden from view, and the once-majestic landscape was reduced to a dim outline behind veils of rain and fog. The cold and wind made it difficult to stop and take pictures, or even to pause for a moment to appreciate where we were. It felt as though the day’s beauty was just out of reach, teasing us from behind the curtain of weather we couldn't escape.

    By the end of the day, we were drenched, exhausted, and longing for the warmth and comfort of a place to rest. Though the ride hadn’t gone as we’d imagined, it still left a lasting impression—a reminder that not all rides are easy, but they are all part of the adventure. The tough ridea make the perfect days, even more cherished in our memories. After arriving at our Warmshower in Saint-Girons, we were warmly greeted by Didier at the door. He quickly helped us with our bikes into the garage and invited us inside to warm up by the wood-burning fireplace. The heat was a welcome comfort after a day in the rain. Soon after, his partner Sylvie came home, and she kindly made us some hot tea. Feeling refreshed, we both took long, hot showers before sitting down to a delicious homemade dinner. Dinner started with a hot bowl of pumpkin soup, followed by a hearty potato salad with herring and egg, fresh lettuce, and of course, an assortment of local cheeses. As is common in France, the cheeses were served after the main course, almost as a bridge between the meal and dessert, or tea and coffee. After our late night with Aude and Kevin the night before, we were more than ready for bed by 9 PM. It was a peaceful, relaxing evening, just what we needed to recharge for a predicted rainy day ahead.
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  • 🇫🇷🪟 Shutters and doors 🚪🇫🇷

    September 25, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    The doors and shutters along the trip, never cease to amaze us. These pictures don’t do them justice.

  • 🎂 B-Day Sunrise in Lourdes ✝️🇫🇷

    September 25, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    At 7:00 am, we began our peaceful walk through the quiet streets of Lourdes, tracing the steps once taken by Bernadette (read about later). The early hour gave the town a much more peaceful atmosphere than our arrival yesterday, with only the soft sounds of our footsteps and the gentle sound of the Ousse River. As we approached the Basilica of Lourdes, the sky began to glow with the first light of the sunrise, casting a pink hue over the sacred site. The stillness of the morning was broken only by the faint echoes of hymns and the familiar monotonous sound of a catholic mass, as we reached the Basilica just in time to witness the closing moments of the morning mass. The sight of the faithful in prayer, coupled with the soft glow of dawn, created a ritualistic cultish feeling. We followed the crowd to the spigots of healing water and partook in touching the water and Lisa even drank a bit. We walked up the steps to get a better view of the basilica, and as the sun was rising I opened my birthday card from Sebastian I had been carrying the whole trip. Lisa made me a wonderful omelette breakfast for my birthday, and then we hit the road quite late at about noon to head to our next Warmshower. It was a beautiful ride from Lourdes to Bagnères-de-Bigorre, a scenic journey through the rolling foothills of the Pyrenees. The quiet countryside roads were lined with lush greenery, the soft hum of nature accompanying us as we pedaled along, feeling the crisp mountain air against our skin. As we neared Bagnères-de-Bigorre, the landscape opened up, revealing the charming town nestled in the valley with the mountains standing proudly in the distance. In Bagnères-de-Bigorre, we stopped for a well-deserved break, heading to the town's Central Park for a peaceful picnic. Surrounded by the vibrant trees and locals enjoying the sunny afternoon, we found a quiet bench in the sun and enjoyed a simple meal, savoring fresh bread, cheese, and humus. The park was a perfect place to rest, the calmness of the surroundings restoring our energy for the next leg of the journey. After lunch, we mounted our bikes again and headed toward Col de Palomières, a scenic mountain pass. The climb was challenging (not a challenging as others on this trip), but the stunning views of the Pyrenean peaks made every pedal stroke worth it. Reaching the col was rewarding , and we were greeted by Aude, our Warmshowers host, at 5:30 as she met us on her cycle ride commuting home from work. She had a warm smile and an easygoing energy that made us instantly feel at ease. Together with Aude, we rode through the picturesque roads that wound through the countryside, en route to Esparros. The peaceful beauty of the route took our breath away, with rolling hills, expansive meadows, and the occasional glimpse of distant mountain ranges. It was nice to have Aude as our tour guide.
    When we finally arrived at Kevin and Aude’s amazing cottage, we were welcomed by Kevin and his smile was equally as welcoming as Aude’s. The cozy cottage had stunning views of the surrounding mountains and valleys, framed by a beautiful garden bursting with flowers. Chickens roamed in their pen, adding a rustic charm to the setting, and the garden overflowed with fresh herbs and vegetables. The atmosphere was serene and relaxing, offering the perfect end to our day’s adventure. As the evening set in, we felt grateful to have found this picturesque sanctuary after a day of cycling through such stunning landscapes. Aude made an improvisational plum pie for dessert to celebrate my birthday. We also ate bread with trite fish and herbs, cheeses (of course), and “tortilla” (we would call frittata.)It was a super special evening and again I can’t tell how special these Warmshower experiences are. With drinks, stories, good food, and Kevin coming back from badminton class at 10:30, before we realized it was after midnight when we headed to bed. The riding today was some of the prettiest riding we have done! Video link: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DAYqwioMbiQ/?igs…
    **********************************
    This next part is from ChatGPt (you may want to skip)
    **Saint Bernadette of Lourdes**
    Saint Bernadette Soubirous was born in 1844 in Lourdes, France, to a humble and devout Catholic family. Her life changed in 1858 when, at the age of 14, she experienced a series of 18 apparitions of the Virgin Mary at the Grotto of Massabielle. During these apparitions, Bernadette described seeing a beautiful lady in white, who later identified herself as the "Immaculate Conception." Despite initial skepticism from local authorities and even the Church, Bernadette’s unwavering account of the visions drew significant attention.

    In one of these visions, Mary instructed Bernadette to dig into the ground, revealing a spring. This spring, still flowing today, became a source of healing for many, and pilgrims soon began flocking to Lourdes to visit the Grotto and seek its miraculous waters. Though Bernadette lived the rest of her life in relative seclusion as a nun, she was canonized in 1933 for her holiness and humility. Today, Saint Bernadette remains a symbol of faith, simplicity, and the power of divine grace.

    **The History of Lourdes**
    Before Bernadette’s visions, Lourdes was a small, unremarkable town nestled at the foot of the Pyrenees mountains. The apparitions of 1858 transformed Lourdes into one of the world’s most important pilgrimage sites. Pilgrims began traveling to Lourdes to visit the Grotto where the Virgin Mary appeared and to bathe in the spring’s healing waters, which many believe have miraculous properties.

    The Catholic Church recognized the apparitions in 1862, and Lourdes quickly developed into a center of devotion and healing. Numerous cures and recoveries attributed to the waters of Lourdes have been documented over the years, though the Church requires thorough investigation before declaring them miracles. Today, Lourdes welcomes millions of visitors annually from all over the world, making it one of the most significant destinations for spiritual and physical healing.

    **The Basilica of Lourdes**
    The Basilica of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, often simply called the Basilica of Lourdes, is an iconic symbol of the city’s spiritual significance. Built between 1866 and 1871, this grand neo-Gothic basilica rises dramatically above the Grotto where Bernadette had her visions. It’s sometimes referred to as the "Upper Basilica" because it sits atop the rock face overlooking the Grotto of Massabielle.

    The basilica is part of a larger sanctuary complex that also includes the Rosary Basilica (completed in 1901) and the underground Basilica of St. Pius X (built in 1958 to accommodate the growing number of pilgrims). Together, these structures form a powerful spiritual hub, reflecting the devotion that surrounds Lourdes.

    The **Grotto of Massabielle** beneath the Basilica remains the focal point of pilgrimages, with thousands of visitors coming to light candles, pray, and touch the sacred rock where Bernadette saw the Virgin Mary. Additionally, the nearby **Lourdes Baths**, fed by the spring uncovered by Bernadette, offer a unique opportunity for pilgrims seeking healing or spiritual renewal. Every year, Lourdes hosts numerous religious processions, including candlelit vigils, bringing together people from all walks of life in a powerful expression of faith and hope.

    Lourdes continues to inspire millions worldwide, offering a place of refuge, healing, and profound spiritual encounters.
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  • ✝️🙏🇫🇷 Lourdes🇫🇷🙏✝️

    September 24, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    5:17 / 61 miles / 4,321 ft. Another great day cycling in southern France, which feels less touristy and more sparsely populated. The roads have fewer cars, and the landscape resembles Iowa, with its rolling hills and farmland. We’ve encountered a peculiar bug hatching, similar to mayflies hatches, and it seems like we’ve been riding through millions of them. When they get tangled in our hair or down our shirts, it’s hard to tell if they’re biting us, but we haven’t felt any itchiness. We stopped in a small village around noon as the church bells rang and the Tuesday market was concluding. We bought some olives for dinner, and Lisa picked up a new pair of sunglasses from a cycling vendor. Today marked our first day without rain while riding, but later, as we walked back from getting takeout pizza in Lourdes, it started to rain, making it our 13th consecutive day with rain. Although we cannot pronounce Lourdes to the satisfaction of the French, it is one place that everyone recognizes the name once they figure out what we’re talking about. Lourdes, in southwestern France, is known for its Christian religious significance and natural beauty. It attracts millions of visitors annually, especially to the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes, a major pilgrimage site. The city is set against the backdrop of the picturesque Pyrenees mountains. To celebrate finally reaching it here we decided on takeout pizza, one of the more holy things that I know. 🙂 Two days ago I forgot to mention that I heard a scream from Lisa as she was riding behind me on the moist pavement. I couldn’t figure out what was going on, but she was holding up her hand and yelling, yuck, and Ugh, etc. I wasn’t sure if she was injured or what the problem was but we were on a pretty fast descent. I got my bike stopped and she stopped also. I guess a giant slug flew off of my wheel and hit her in the face. She then wiped it off and it was stuck on her hand. I’m sure you’ll hear more about the story, but in summary she says, “SO GROSS!”🤢 Video of the market: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DAT62CXuXZr/?igs…Read more

  • 🇫🇷🚴Heading toward the Peyrenees🚴‍♀️🇫🇷

    September 23, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    6:22 / 72 miles / 5,692 ft. After departing Agen where Mathilde left us the supplies for a nice breakfast including coffee. We rode about 30 miles and spent a chilly lunch break in Lectoure, France, near the historic cathedral. The noon bell rush filled the city center, with women hurrying to yoga classes and children of all ages enjoying their school lunch break that last usually from noon until 1:30 or 2:00, some sporting shirts that said "Smile," "Chicago," and "New York." As most businesses, including the tourism office, closed for a couple of hours, Lisa scurried around searching for a baguette (she’s turning French!) Our ride from Agen to Lectoure took us along winding roads through breathtaking countryside. Vast, open farmland stretched across the hills, making us feel like we were on top of the world. We enjoyed reaching speeds of nearly 35 mph, as we tried to coast up our next big hill. The woody scent of drying sunflowers lingered in the air, and the valleys below were a patchwork of golden fields of corn, wheat, soybeans, and sunflower. We passed isolated farmhouses, seeing more sheep and cows than people and cars. The livestock, grazing lazily on the hillsides, dotted the landscape like clouds on green hills. Despite the chill—enough for me to wear legwarmers, though Lisa braved the ride in shorts—the scenery was stunning. After our usual lunch of baguette sandwiches with hummus, beets, cheese, chips, and a Coke, we rode past the Basilica Saint Gèny and made our way to Auch. Auch was hectic, as large cities tend to be. We stopped for a Powerade at a grocery store and visited the Cathédrale Sainte-Marie just as the rain began—our 12th consecutive day with rain. From Auch, we climbed more rolling hills, with sheep grazing as sheepdogs kept them in check. The windmill and ruins of the Château de Durban standing quietly, adding a historic touch to the serene landscape. From Durban we had about 6 miles remaining, we needed to stop by the grocery store before our climb to our Airbnb. We picked up a microwavable lasagna and our normal breakfast supplies. Then we rode the 2.4 mile climb of an average gradient of 10% to our Airbnb. We had a nice night at the Airbnb with great views over the valley. Just before bed Lisa stepped outside to check on our bikes, and called me out to see the sky, magnificent with millions of stars.Read more

  • 🚴‍♀️🇫🇷Fall along the Canal🇫🇷🚴

    September 22, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    4:56 / 66 miles / 2,110 ft. Lisa and I had a great ride along the Canal Latéral à la Garonne, starting from our Airbnb about 65 miles north of Agen, FR. The morning began with rain, so we relaxed with multiple breakfasts and a brunch until 11:30 AM when we checked out. Our host, thrilled to have us for two days, shared her dream of visiting the United States. As the rain eased, we snapped a picture together before hitting the road.
    We cycled through scenic hillsides (reminding us of Iowa), passing fields of drying sunflowers still holding onto a bit of their bright yellow, familiar September corn with brown leaves all most ready for harvest, and rows of plum trees, many already harvested but still adorned with a random lingering purple fruit. Eventually, we descended to Marmande, FR and the flat canal path, making great time in the sunshine with a slight tailwind. For lunch, we stopped to enjoy our packed ham sandwich , hummus, chips, beet salad, peanuts, and a slightly chilled beer. We reached Agen around 5:30 PM and relaxed at Velo Café with a drink. Just as we settled on the patio under the canvas tent, a downpour began, so we waited it out before heading to our Warmshowers host. The evening with Mathilde was relaxing as we sat around the table enjoying—black bean chili, rice, tea, chocolate, and sheep cheese, plums (fresh and slightly dried) paired with great conversation. Mathilde is a teacher of 3-5 year old children, and has a classroom of 16 children she teaches French and Occitan (a language closer to Catalan, Spanish, Portuguese and Italian than French. spoken mainly in the southern regions) After Mathilde’s grandmother’s herbal tea we were ready for bed! As the leaves begin to change and flutter to the path along the canal on this first day of fall, we’ve settled into a private room, ready for a good night's rest. More rain predicted for tomorrow morning. 😒 A short video of parts of the day: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DAP4a-jMYeu/?igs…
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  • 🍇🇫🇷 A Rest Day in the Countryside 🇫🇷🌻

    September 21, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    2:18 / 28 miles / 2,000ft. During our visit to the Upper Hamlet of Plum Village, we were immersed in the peaceful atmosphere Thich Nhat Hanh created. We strolled through the tranquil bamboo garden, where the golden fall leaves fluttered gently to the ground. We stopped for a few moments on the wooden benches to enjoy the peacefulness. At the lotus pond, we were captivated by the graceful koi and a curious muskrat, who seemed to enjoy our quiet presence. We also visited the giant bell tower and meditation hall, feeling a deep sense of connection to the teachings of Thich Nhat Hanh. I briefly helped a resident fix a flat tire on their bicycle, adding a moment of mindfulness to the day. Despite the cloudy weather, the skies were beautiful, and we could feel Thich Nhat Hanh's spirit all around us. From Upper Hamlet we set off on our bikes to Thénac, pedaling through the picturesque French countryside towards Saussignac and Sigoulès. Along the way, we soaked in the peaceful scenery of vineyards and rolling hills. In Sigoulès, we stopped to pick up groceries for a pasta dinner, and our supplies for breakfast before continuing our journey to Lower Hamlet, the nunnery of Plum Village. The visit to Lower Hamlet was serene and meaningful. We explored the grounds, appreciating the quiet beauty and the spirit of mindfulness. We bought a couple of writings featuring Thich Nhat Hanh’s quotes, a small souvenir for Sebastian, and a jar of homemade plum jam to help support the nunnery. During our visit to lower hamlet, we were lucky enough to witness one of the nuns inviting the bell. When the bell was struck, everyone stopped what they were doing, and took a moment to take some breaths and enjoy the silence. After our visit, we cycled back toward our Airbnb, and along the way we met two men from the Czech Republic, who were biking from Prague to Lisbon. Upon returning to our Airbnb we enjoyed cooking a cozy pasta dinner together, reflecting on another great day together. After dinner, we took a brief walk up the hill to enjoy the colors of the sunset. ❤️Read more

  • 🌻Plum Village: Do you know who Thây was?

    September 20, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    3:53 / 41 miles / 2,369 ft. We set off from Landline, FR at 11:00 AM (our latest start so far), riding along a canal in a light morning rain through the picturesque countryside towards Bergerac and Plum Village, a Zen monastery, founded by Thich Nhat Hanh, “Thây” pronounced “Tie”, (1926-2022). As we passed fields of golden corn and drying sunflowers, their heads heavy and ready for harvest, We saw, on the hillsides) millions of grapes ripening in nearby vineyards, soon to be harvested and transformed into wine.

    In Bergerac, we took a leisurely tour of the historical city, marveling at the half-timbered houses and winding medieval streets. We stopped at a small kebab shop, and to our pleasure, they served a version of “tacos” we had tried on our previous tour, and we were excited to sample them again. Enjoying our unconventional lunch of tortillas, folded around kebab meat and french fries, including lettuce and tomatoes, we discussed our route to Plum Village and Thich Nhat Hanh’s teachings on mindfulness and his lifelong work promoting peace. I read “Being Peace” one of his 100+ books he has written, over 30 years ago. Today, his philosophy of living in the present moment felt especially poignant as we pedaled on this serene part of the world where he spent many of his days after being exiled from Vietnam. The rolling hills, farms, and other scenery reminded us a bit of Northeast Iowa and parts of Wisconsin. Later, we passed by the Château de Barradius, its stone towers standing proudly over the rolling hills that we could see for nearly 2 miles as we climbed towards them. We couldn’t resist buying a bottle of their famed red wine to enjoy later with our planned cheesy potato dinner. As we continued toward Plum Village, I reflected on Thich Nhat Hanh’s belief that true peace begins within. As pedals continued to make the harmonic revolution to push me forward through the quiet countryside and under the clear sky, his message seemed as relevant as ever, a reminder of harmony in a world often filled with conflict. We stopped by upper Hamlet and explored a little bit, and I did ask one of the monks if we could come back and walk around the grounds tomorrow. He said that that would not be a problem. We rode the last couple of miles to our Airbnb, cooked dinner together, enjoyed the bottle of wine, caught up with a few friends through text messaging, and FaceTimed our moms. ❤️ If you have never heard of Thich Nhat Hanh I recommend you watch this 27 minute video sometime https://youtu.be/DRObW9noiVk?si=cvfCN7RZcLicys4I. Good news FindPenguins has changed their policy and now I can upload 20 images. Also, I created a little video about the ride yesterday. Maybe you can watch it here: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DAJTCB6MR6T/?igs…

    Tomorrow is a rest day, and we will explore the area around Plum Village.🌻
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  • 🇪🇸🇫🇷Some Various Churches🇮🇹🇨🇭

    September 20, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We never get tired of seeing the beautiful churches of Europe. 😀

  • 🇫🇷☀️Corrèze & Dordogne Districts ☀️🇫🇷

    September 19, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    5:51 / 71 miles / 4,352 Riding 70 miles through the scenic Corrèze district of France is an unforgettable experience. The day began with mist rising from the hills, and as we pedaled through the rolling countryside, we passed charming stone villages, thick forests, and quiet, winding rivers. The terrain was a mix of gentle inclines and exhilarating descents, offering stunning views of the green valleys below. Small roads led us past fields of sunflowers and cows grazing peacefully. We stopped at local bakeries and cafés along the way, refueling with fresh croissants and strong coffee. As the miles passed, the challenge of the ride became more rewarding, with each hill climb revealing a new breathtaking vista. The tranquility of the countryside, with its old stone cottages and medieval churches, made the journey feel like a step back in time. By the time we arrived in Lalinde, in the Dordogne region, we were tired but satisfied. Our Airbnb, a cozy, rustic home, was a perfect retreat for the evening. We topped off the day with a well-earned pizza dinner, savoring the simple joy of good food after a long, beautiful ride. It was the perfect end to a day spent exploring the picturesque French countryside on two wheels.Read more

  • 😀🚴🇫🇷Finally Some Warmth!🇫🇷🚴☀️

    September 18, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    6:21 / 78 miles / 6,600 ft. This was one of our longer days in mileage, and also one of our tougher days of climbing. The sunshine and warmer weather, along with the beautiful scenery of the Cantal District would help the miles go by quickly. After nine days in legwarmers, I finally took them off because the temperature is warm enough! The Cantal area of France is absolutely fantastic. “The Cantal district of France is a hidden gem, boasting stunning volcanic landscapes, rolling green hills, and charming medieval villages. Its serene valleys, craggy peaks, and tranquil lakes create a captivating blend of rugged beauty and pastoral tranquility, perfect for nature lovers seeking unspoiled, picturesque scenery. The cows of Cantal, primarily of the Salers breed, are renowned for their rich milk, which is essential for producing the famous Cantal cheese. With their striking mahogany coats and sweeping horns, they graze the lush volcanic pastures of the region. Their hardy nature and deep connection to the land reflect Cantal's agricultural heritage.”(Thanks ChatGPT) We got to our airbnb about 5:30 PM, and I took a quick dip in the saltwater swimming pool as Lisa watched me with goosebumps. Our Airbnb was a cute little renovated stone cottage. We had a microwavable lasagna, some other cheeses, olives, and bread. For dessert, we devoured a large chocolate bar. Tomorrow will be another long day of about 70 miles, but the weather is predicted to be very nice.Read more

  • 🇧🇪 Hugo 🇫🇷 Les Fadas de Puy Mary

    September 17, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Hugo! Passion, kindness, generosity, love, enthusiasm, friendship, sharing, friend, and love of cycling only begin to explain this expat Belgian living in the Cantal district of France. Hugo fell in love with the Cantal area years ago,and with the beautiful scenery, kind people, and awesome cycling we could easily see why this was his choice for retirement. He has become the organizer of a cycling challenge (not a race!) called the “Les Fadas de Puy Mary” (the fools of the Puy Mary) http://lesfadasdupuymary.eu/html/English/LinksE… it is a challenge to do some of the steep passes (Cols) of the area near Saignes, FR. I highly recommend if you are one of our Warmshower hosts in France. You look this up and try the challenge! I want to remember everything about our experience with Hugo. He is so passionate about his fountain pen writing, his history in the sport of cycling, promoting cycling touring, and sharing his passion for life… oh yeah, he has a shoe invention he is trying to develop, but I have to keep this top-secret. We had an awesome dinner while listening to music. Green soup and the famous dish from the Cantal area called “aligot,” I dare you to look it up and try to make it. It was absolutely delicious mashed potatoes mixed with some special cheese. We had to cut it to eat it! The night was topped off in our own private bedroom with a private bathroom for us with snoopy pillowcases. Ha ha ha! In the morning, we shared more stories, ate bread on our Cantal placemats, and enjoyed some delicious coffee. After breakfast, Hugo led us out of the village along our path toward Jugeals-Nazareth, FR (our next Airbnb.) There are definitely more stories to come about Hugo and we hope to visit him again someday soon! 😀❤️Read more

  • 5:25 / 64 miles / 6,542 ft. Saignes, France (The Cantal District) The 9th day of cold, mist, fog, and not the stunning blue skies we were expecting for September in France. Left our Warmshower host at about 9 AM. We knew we had a tough day ahead of us and the cold and misty weather was not going to make it any easier.
    A traditional breakfast of toast and various spreads along with a bowl of coffee to dip it in, got a little warmth in our bellies before we left. Right out of the driveway without any warm-up, we had a 9.6 mile climb of an average gradient of 5.4%. At least finishing this climb would knock off about 1/3 of our climbing for the day. We battled with staying warm, and not getting too sweaty. At one time I was wearing six layers of clothing as we were coming down from the pass and I could still feel the cold air cutting through them. Again, we took refuge in a cathedral from the elements, as we ate a couple of bananas and sipped on a Coke. This was to be one of our more beautiful days as far as scenery goes, but the foggy weather blocked out the stunning views we were hoping for. We did not see the Puy de Mary (an inactive volcano) today, which is the highest point in the Cantal district. Although we did not have the stunning views of the mountains and valleys, we still enjoyed the historical churches, the stone houses, and the fresh air of the mountains. The romanesque basilica of Orcival was amazing, and we chatted with another bicycle tourist as we enjoyed the historical village. With all of the difficult riding, we were worried that we would not make it to our Warmshower host before 7 PM. Luckily, we had tailwinds that pushed us along and we reached Saignes, FR at about 5:15 PM. We found a place near the center of the village next to the centrally located church and had a beer. We reached out to Hugo, our Warmshower host, and within one minute he was joining us. We had an absolutely wonderful night at Hugo’s house. See the post titled “Hugo.”
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