Kumano Kodo Day 3: Shrine and Compost

This day was a short jaunt from Yumonine Onsen to Kumano Hongu Taisha, only about 5 km. Originally I planned to hike from here to Koguchi, but opted for a shortened section to enjoy the Shrine area more (and give my body a break). The hike wound into the town around the shrine, and I immediately followed my nose to a Choux bakery where I had one of the best pastries of my life. After that spiritual rebirth, I headed towards the main shrine. A long stone staircase led to the Tori gate and the main shrine building. After going through the water cleansing process, I entered the shrine and took in the history. This particular shrine had been rebuilt from flooding in the 1800s and was moved from it's origal riverside locale to its current hill. The woodwork and craftsmanship was impressive. There were many signs of the three legged crow which the logo/mascot of sorts for the entire Kumano pilgramage. The origin of the crow in involved with the Japanese creation story for the country, and is a national symbol (their Soccer team even has it on their jerseys). At the original site near the river, the largest torii gate in the world was built in 2000; it towers over even the old growth trees in background.
I was then picked up by Sage, my host for the farmstay that evening. He drove me in his small truck about 20 minutes to his family farm in the mountains. I didn't have any Tokyo Drift driving experiences in Japan, but a small truck in the hands of a local through winding mountain roads was close enough to rally racing for me. I was greeted by the family goat and some of the farm cats. They farm on their small plot of sloping land and made all the meals I ate from their own (and neighbors) crops. Their property was very ecologically oriented and had compost set up from the toilet. It would fit right in with a farm to table kind of place in Boulder. I also got to take a bath in a traditional tub; I now understand how hot pot feels for the food. I fell asleep to a strong rainstorm against the roof, grateful this small family shared their home with me for a night.Read more