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  • AmyInWonderland
  • AmyInWonderland

Costa Rica

Exploring pura vida in Central America for the first time Read more
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  • Trip start
    January 16, 2025
    AmyInWonderlandCosta RicaTraveler

    Departing Savannah to Pura Vida

    January 16, 2025 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Heading down to Costa Rica to explore Central American rain forest life for a few weeks. Today is travel day SAV - MIA - SJO.

    First the nights spent in Alajuela, an hour away from San Jose in the central hills overlooking the valley. Buena Vista. The first day was spent traveling and sampling some local cuisine.

    The hotel has a nature trail with coffee plants, trees and birds. We actually spotted a toucan, a rare sighting here we are told.    Read more

  • AmyInWonderlandCosta RicaTraveler

    San Jose food tour

    January 17, 2025 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    On the second day we headed to San Jose for a three hour food and culture walking tour. We explored the central district, the famous central food market, popped into the historic theater and cathedral, then had a sample of Costa Rican coffee, banana ceviche, tamales, and made our own cheese empanadas. After the tour we had to go back to the market for tacos and carne empanadas and chicerones because the only thing we actually ate at the market on the tour was fruit, 😂.

    The commute was long, crawling through traffic over two hours back to our hotel. The city was fun to explore, but...I'm glad we stayed in Alajuela. One day was enough city life for me. I'm ready to check out mother nature next!    Read more

  • AmyInWonderlandCosta RicaTraveler
    1321

    Waterfalls and Butterflies

    January 18, 2025 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Today was the first nature day. We scheduled a 5 hour private excursion across the central Highlands to La Paz waterfall gardens, natural park, and wildlife refuge. On the way our driver Luis noticed a Sloth hanging out on a power line over the road, we excitedly pulled over to admire him from below. He said this was good luck to see this our first day: Suerte!

    Luis accompanied us into the park where we saw the beautiful toucans, parrots, sloths, monkeys, butterflies, hummingbirds, wild cats, snakes, frogs, ox, plants, trees, flowers, and all the bounty of the rain forest as we walked along the trail, eventually admirimiring the waterfalls on multiple levels.

    I'm happy we explored this super nice park and feel like I've tasted Costa Rica's sample platter of what lies ahead. It felt like being in Jurassic Park without the dinosaurs, or Jeff Goldblume. All parts of the nature were magical in their own way.

    My "suerte" moments of the day: sloth sighting; butterfly with a broken wing landing on my hand and staying with me the whole time I walked through the butterfly habitat; waterfall mist blowing on my face; bird watching on the trail at the hotel and spotting a toucan up in the trees, among other beautiful birds.

    Cool new thing: I've downloaded a birding app that recognizes bird songs and have now started a bird ID collection for this trip!

    Pura vida!    Read more

  • AmyInWonderlandCosta RicaTraveler
    1

    Tortuguero Tropical River Excursion

    Jan 19–21, 2025 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    I spent two days in the Manatus nature resort near tortugara in the Northeast coastal region of Costa Rica. There is a beach across the inlet, but they don't swim in it, too dangerous they say, sharks and rip currents. They also don't swim in the rivers, also too dangerous.... Crocodiles, snakes, currents. After all we are surrounded by the rain forest and all her creatures which I got to experience this morning first hand by small open boat in the rain wearing a poncho with 6 other English speaking visitors. We started closely at the shore identifying all species of birds, plants and animals. When we entered the national Park it felt like the a strange version of a Disney boat ride with giant palm trees and forest canopy and animal sounds, but they were all real! We had a repeat tour in the other direction down the river this afternoon in the sun mostly watching birds.

    Bird sightings: many species of herons, egrets, plus a gang of six great green macaws eating almonds above our boat as we putted along the bank of the river. Toucans and parakeets perching and flying and squaking. Plus some new birds I've never seen like a northern jacana and a Montezuma Orapendola? I'm totally digging my Merlin bird App!!! 🦜🐦‍⬛🐦🦚🦅

    Mammals: howler monkeys, spider monkeys, and cappucin monkeys all playing high in the trees; two and three toe sloths hanging in the branches above the water's edge... SOOO cute!

    Reptiles: Iguanas and Jesus lizards sunning themselves on the trees.

    Also saw some bats that looked like little brown humps on a tree. I would have never spotted half these things of it weren't for our guide Bony and boat Captain Ronnie who have taken us around for the last two days and will transport us back to the mainland when we depart this place tomorrow.

    I enjoyed the Sunday drive through the natural Forest and banana farms to get here. You can't reach this place by car, you have to take a boat ride east for about an hour through the Creek and Suerte River heading east. The temperature is hot and humid, so I'm muy happy there is AC! The bungalo style rooms are nice with a outdoor tropical rain shower, covered walkways, and vaulted roofs, all the better to hear the rain drops. The dining is all included and the food has been great, eating in an open air pavilion overlooking the river. I also took a swim in the pool and decided to get out because it started to rain on my dry towel. Lol!

    Our itinerary included a guided excursion in the boat across the river to the little village of Tortugara, 3000 inhabitants, same as Tybee, but way different! Very narrow, pedestrian only "main Street" which was crowded with bars and shops and a mix of locals and tourist gringos in and out of boats for their little tours of the beach to learn about the turtles then a stroll through the town. I sipped coconut water out of husk a lady chopped open with her machete, then drank a Costa Rican beer at a very local open air dive where folks were gathering for their Sunday dinner of fried chicken, bananas, Cole slaw, and cervesa.

    I doubt I will return to this corner of the world, but happy to have had the experience staying in this place and enjoying the nature and beauty it had to offer.

    Pura Vida!    Read more

  • AmyInWonderlandCosta RicaTraveler

    Onward to La Fortuna

    Jan 21–26, 2025 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    I said adios to the East Coast and Tortuguero and headed inland to the Arenal volcano region near the town of La Fortuna. This "lucky" town was spared from the volcano eruption in 2010 therefore the namesake.

    So another early morning departure via boat for an hour back to the mainland and the return ride through the bananas, a stop for lunch, then another two hour scenic drive in a private transport with Jose, our naturalist guide and driver for the afternoon. We rode into the hills through pineapple and fruit farms. We discussed Costa Rican wildlife, the culture and points of interests in different regions, tourism, business
    politics, and the controversy over single crop pineapple and banana farming and it's negative environmental impacts. Whew! So I really hope the growers of my two favorite fruits will find a way to be more sustainable by rotating their crops and preserving the land.

    The hotel where I am staying is situated at the base of the Arenal volcano, in the edge of... You guessed it, a rain forest! With more birds, iguanas, monkeys, and more! Plus a swim up bar with a view of the volcano and surrounding lush vegetation. I did an early morning yoga class in a pavilion on the edge of the forest, and explored the little tourist town of La Fortuna.

    Next on the itinerary, sloth sanctuary, thermal volcano spa day, boat safari nature tour.

    Cool things: rain noises on the roof of the bungalo in the middle of the night. Trails of ants carrying little bits of green leafs. Forest bathing. Drinking margaritas in a pool on the drizzling rain at the foot of a volcano while a giant iguana hangs out in a nearby tree. And the hummingbirds are unreal here!

    Pura Vida!    Read more

  • AmyInWonderlandCosta RicaTraveler
    1

    Rain Forest Bathing

    January 23, 2025 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    I am enjoying the peaceful exploration of the rain forest, walking solo or guided on a tour. The Japanese practice of forest bathing comes to mind as I observe the different shades of green on leaves, vines, ferns, mosses, and brown shades of dirt, mud, branches, fungi, roots, speckled here and there with colorful blossoms and flowers and fruits and little creatures that appear.

    The sounds of rain drops and the wind, sometimes water running below, and birds and frogs, and cracking branches from monkeys or other creatures.

    Muy tranquillo! Pura Vida!    Read more

  • AmyInWonderlandCosta RicaTraveler
    111

    Sloths, monkeys and volcano bathing

    Jan 23–26, 2025 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    The Arenal volcano region and the town of La Fortuna is a popular destination. During my five days here I scheduled some guided activities:

    * A guided sloth territory hike tour on a private property in the Arenal area, where a family keeps a sloth sanctuary in a part of the rainforest surrounded by La Havana river. Our small group of 3 Germans, 2 Americans, and 1 Italian walked about a mile in the rain forest spotting sloths, birds, and monkeys, and of course lush vegetation, blosoms and fruits all around.

    * Guided River rafting private excursion, drifting through the rain forest near farmlands, also seeing sloths, monkeys, porcupines, iguanas, birds as we gently floated down the river. At the end, the monkeys were having a party in the trees surrounding a farmhouse cafe, providing a dramatic and fun conclusion to the 90 minute tour.

    * Full day pass to the Tabacon hot springs to relax and bathe in the thermal waters naturally heated from the Arenal volcano, where there were dozens of pools and waterfalls to enjoy. Since it was also raining most of the day, it was fun to feel the cold rain while soaking in 100 degrees water. I was looking forward to this experience more than anything and give it a 10.

    * And since I was staying at a nice resort, I also opted for a free early morning yoga class and a soothing reflexology foot massage. Both took place in open air structures at the edge of the rain forest, a sensational environment for relaxation.

    What I didn't do: this area is also popular for adrenaline style nature activities like zip lining, hanging bridges, extreme hiking, climbing, and white water rafting. I opted for a more peaceful pace. 😊

    Here's to the healing powers of mother nature!

    Pura Vida! 🦜🐒✨🌴🐦    Read more

  • AmyInWonderlandCosta RicaTraveler

    Monteverde hilltop stop

    Jan 26–29, 2025 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    I departed the Arena region with 6 other Americans in a shared private transport through the rain forest, across a lake, and up, up, up into the hills through cattle farms, stopping for a cervesa and am empanada at a roadside stand along the way. We arrived in the small village of Santa Elena, high in the hills with views of the Gulf and Nicoya peninsula below in the Western horizon.

    The wind here is unbelievably persistent. I asked the guide if it's always like this and he answered, no, sometimes it's worse. Lol. At night it sounds like you're sleeping on a ship in a storm. And I am not complaining. It's refreshing in contrast to the tropical humid environments I just left. I have enjoyed opening the doors and not using the A/C.

    Walking into town and back feels like a near vertical experience at times. My calves will be looking good! 🥾🦵🏻

    For activities so far it's been pretty mellow. Exploring the town, a little laundry, some pizza, some traditional food, and relaxing at the hotel because the room has a stunning sunset view, perfect for chilling out and drinking some Argentina vino tinto, and getting a good night sleep before the 6:20 am bird watching tour. Yes I woke up at 5:15, on purpose, to have coffee and go watch birds in a cloud forest, walking through trails to a hanging bridge, leading to a tree house where they served breakfast.

    Daniel our guide helped identify over 40 species during our 3 hour nature excursion. He was a fantastic companion, very enthusiastic about birds and nature. I crawled into a ficus tree on the way. The park has mobility guides to assist in traversing the bridge to the platform. "Have you ever worn a harness before?" Um, not that I can recall. 😂 Yeah, no.

    He buckled me into the protective straps, hooked me to a wire, and sent me on my way across hanging the bridge high above the forest below. It felt peaceful and relaxing, a few butterflies in my stomach. I stopped to look down and decided better to keep moving, look ahead, like the fire walk, keep going, not too fast, cool moss.

    At the tree platform there was an option to continue climbing to higher levels above the canopy, I was happy to remain at the first one, where we ate a lovely breakfast and talked with the 3 Costa Rican guides, and continued to watch birds. I felt I would see Ewoks at any moment, but I did not.

    Pura Vida!    Read more

  • AmyInWonderlandCosta RicaTraveler

    Manuel Antonio Part 1

    Jan 29–Feb 2, 2025 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    It was time to depart the high hills in the cloud forest and head to the Pacific Coast, driving south for about 4 hours to Manuel Antonio, a laid back Pacific beach destination. On the way our driver stopped for a rest at a roadside local eatery to have some food, use the baño, and walk out on the bridge to view the crocodiles sunbathing in the shallow river below.

    Another 2 hours and we arrived at our final Costa Rican destination to chill out for a week in the tropical forest hillside ocean view retreat called Hotel Costa Verde, a large and unusual property, with lush hillside tropical trails, multiple restaurants, a variety of cabins and rooms three pools, their own zip line, and I'm not sure what else. A lot of hiking up and down, iguanas, monkeys, toucans, sloths, and most importantly an adult only pool section with a bar.

    While I am here for seven nights, I will move rooms three times due to the opportunity to stay in a renovated airplane high above the Pacific Ocean called the sky loft. The first few days have been mainly spent relaxing at the beach and pool, enjoying the sunsets and some local cuisine. I have a few tours scheduled so now's the time to take a vacation from the vacation, kick back and relax.

    The first room feels like a upgraded camping situation with bunk beds, outdoor kitchen outdoor shower, and a terrace with a beautiful sunset view.

    The cappuccino monkeys at breakfast are out of control, during my first morning breakfast one swiped the jelly right off my table, jumping to the training to lick it off his fast sticky hands. Every morning since, I've been watching the newcomers also defend themselves from these naughty little sugar loving mischief makers! They are cute, but... There's a reason they put spray water bottles on these tables!

    Pura vida!    Read more

  • AmyInWonderlandCosta RicaTraveler

    Manuel Antonio Part 2

    Jan 29–Feb 5, 2025 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    The seven day Pacific Coast beach vacation continues... Only two tours booked, a guided hike through Manuel Antonio State Park where we spotted toucans, sloths, monkeys, lizards, crabs, and lots of humans. In fact, there's a cage to put the humans in while they eat with posted instructions to keep the gate closed at all times and "Don't feed the animals." Hmmm? 🐒

    We also took a guided kayaking tour in the mangroves. Peaceful and buggy. Didn't spot much wildlife, but it's ok. We've seen so much it feels good to just chill with the plants and paddle a bit. Happy to report no snakes or crocodiles.

    We took 3 beach days, 1 spa day, and a day to move into an airplane room for two nights.... That will be it's own footprint.

    Have been enjoying the local cuisine, and also dining at an awesome Indian restaurant to take a break from the traditional gallo pinto rice, beans, meat diet. Chasing away monkeys every morning at breakfast has become a daily ritual.

    There are a lot of squirrel monkeys and cappucin monkeys and howlers here, as the hotel slogan claims, there are "still more monkeys than people" here at the Costa Verde.

    Pura Vida! 🐒🙈🙉🙊🐒    Read more

  • AmyInWonderlandCosta RicaTraveler

    Sky Loft: I'm on a plane!

    Feb 2–4, 2025 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    For my 3 week trip I actually used a Costa Rica travel agency to book the lodging, transportation, and some of the activities. I have never done this before, and planning at the last minute made the option a good one for me. Overall they did a great job. I would have probably never chosen to stay in an airplane, but I did! It was pretty cool. They didn't charge extra for the monkeys.

    The monkeys love the porches and sleeping in the closed section of the fuselage. They even figured out how to work the bathtub faucet. Too funny!

    Here's the property info from the website and my photos:

    "SkyLoft is something very different: the best ocean views offered at Hotel Costa Verde from the balcony and terrace of a vintage refurbished 1982 McDonald Douglas MD-82 airframe. The fuselage’s two large bedrooms offer a total of four queen-sized beds, each with its own entrance to the 800 square foot terrace. On the terrace you’ll easily entertain with a dinner table for eight, a wet bar, and a living room – all with stunning views of the Pacific Ocean. In addition, five stories above the jungle floor, SkyLoft has an additional private, romantic balcony hanging off the master bedroom. We call this spot the ‘Scenic Soak’ because of the luxury soak tub, which offers an unparalleled ocean view. Floating in the tub, on top of the world…you will forget the “real” world exists and you might never want to leave Hotel Costa Verde: where the beach meets the jungle.

    At the end of its prior life, our jet was flying charters for Ukrainian vacation revelers from Kiev to Turkey’s Mediterranean beaches. We salvaged the aluminum airframe from its San Jose ‘airport resting place’ and carefully transported the pieces on several articulated, big-rig trucks that are designed for moving cell towers. If an unforgettable experience is what you are looking for, the SkyLoft is sure to deliver. "    Read more

  • AmyInWonderlandCosta RicaTraveler

    Conclusion. Hasta luego Costa Rica

    Feb 4–6, 2025 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    The last few days were spent mainly walking back and forth from the Costa Verde to the beach, enjoying the sunshine, a few margaritas, and of course more monkeys and birds!

    We moved out of the skyloft and into a studio room for the final night. Enjoyed some great barbecue ribs cooked over a wood fire for dinner. Woke up with the sun around 5:30 a.m. and went down to the beach to say farewell to the Pacific Ocean, bathing my magic stones I brought from Tybee.

    Gianni did a tarot card reading for each of us as we are moving onward, me coming home and him heading down to Ecuador.

    Our driver arrived at noon to take us 3.5 hours to the Hampton Inn near the San Jose airport. Arriving there, passing a Denny's, it felt like I was already back in America. We had an unremarkable dinner at the neighboring casino bar, packed and turned in early so I could rest before my 5:30 am shuttle and 12 hour travel day.

    Of all the places in Costa Rica, I cannot pick a favorite. I think they all have their own magical personality, and their plusses and minuses. What I've enjoyed about the overall experience is the essence of Costa Rica, which to me is the lush green rainforest, the warm humid climate, the plants, flowers, fruits, and animals and especially the birds. The muddy trails and the windy roads, the waterfalls, thermal hot springs, beautiful waterways, mangroves, and beaches.

    And of course the culture, the laid back vibe, the simple food and the Ticos who showed us amazing hospitality and their own version of Pura Vida.

    Until we meet again, hasta luego Costa Rica!
    🇨🇷🦋🍍🦎🐒🦜🌴🏝️🌄    Read more

    Trip end
    February 6, 2025
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