• A Time of Yummy Goodness

    3 maggio, Spagna ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    After a walking tour today, our guide told us about two specialties in the area. One is a pastry roll made from potato flour, dusted in powdered sugar that you then dip in hot chocolate. And the other was an almond cake made of nothing but almonds and sugar and butter. So after about three hours of walking around the town, we stopped with Shane and Mika for coffee and hot chocolate and the local specialties. I thought that I would like the almond cake more but the potato-flour roll dusted with powdered sugar was heavenly. It was almost like an unglazed Krispy Kreme doughnut, which is also made with potato flour. My hot chocolate was so thick and rich that I almost needed a spoon to drink it. Our guide told us to dip our potato roll into the hot chocolate, and I promise you that combination was a piece of heaven. After our rest in the little café, we stopped by a pearl shop to look at some Mallorca blue pearls.Leggi altro

  • George and Fred

    3 maggio, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    In the 1830’s Amantine Lucile Aurore Dupin, the daughter of a noble French family, left her husband. She took her two children, and set out on an illustrious career as a gender-bending novelist, attaining great success in France and England using the pen-name George Sand.

    Her many romantic relationships with people of both sexes included the famous composer and pianist Frederic Chopin. In November of 1838 they rented for three months the estate we visited today.

    The building of this estate began in 1232 as a Carthusian monastery. It was gradually enlarged until Spain expelled all of the monastic orders in 1835. Nine families cooperatively purchased this monastery in Valldemossa and rented it out to wealthy families visiting the island of Mallorca. One of their tenants in late 1838 was George Sand and her current lover, the composer.

    Something in Mme. Dupin/Sand wanted to protect and heal the ailing genius. She referred to Chopin as “my little corpse.” It has been said that he had tuberculosis. Doctors now know that tuberculosis is a virulently infectious disease that spreads to thousands of people in a short time, and death follows in days. Chopin lived until 1849. Doctors now think he probably had cystic fibrosis.

    Mme. Dupin wanted her little corpse to get away to rest and recover, so she arranged to bring him here to Mallorca. Despite his popularity in Paris, Chopin was not only sick, he was also intensely shy. In the city, crowds, teaching piano lessons and performances occupied all of his time. On the island of Mallorca he had freedom from the crowds and ample time to compose. In the three months he was in Valldemossa he wrote all 24 preludes of his Opus 28, as well as several mazurkas, the Polonaise Opus 40, one sonata and a number of other pieces. He ordered a piano from the Pleyel Piano Co. in Paris, but it arrived only three weeks before he left the island in February of 1839. For this most productive period of his life he used an inferior instrument built by local carpenter named Juan Bauza.

    For Chopin his secluded time here was a wonderful change. His partner, however, missed being the center of social life of Paris and was desperately unhappy. Agitated and distraught, she soon insisted they return to Paris. The friction over their time in Valldemossa was the beginning of the erosion of their romance, though their acquaintance lasted until the composer’s death.

    But if you ask me, if I were to spend a couple of years at the keyboard, I would say there are few places in the world better than Valldemosa on the island of Mallorca for undistracted practice.

    I think Chopin got it right.
    Leggi altro

  • The Prince’s Playground

    3 maggio, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria Hungary ruled from 1848 until his death in 1916. Archduke Ludwig Salvatore Hapsburg-Bourbon was the Emperor’s second cousin, the sixth in line for the throne. He loved nature and wildlife. Knowing the odds against his ascending to the throne, he decided it was safe for him just to travel the world. He was given two ships from the Austro-Hungarian Navy as his personal toys. He traveled all over the world in them and wrote several notable travel logs for his wealthy friends to use during their travels. When one of his ships sank, his daddy just gave him another one.

    As a young man he fell in love with the Princess Mathilde, daughter of the Duke of Teschen. She had already been promised, however, to Prince Umberto of Savoy in an arranged marriage. She was a smoker, and knew her father disapproved of her habit. One evening she was getting dressed in an elaborate gown to go to the theater. Her father caught her smoking, and she tried to hide her cigarette behind her dress. It caught fire and, as her family watched, she burned to death. Ludwig never married.

    Of all the places he visited, his favorite retreat was his mountainside villa here on the island of Mallorca in the Balearic Islands just east of Spain. It is a sprawling estate that covers several mountain ridges in an area known as San Morroig (pronounced “San Morroij” in Catalan),

    He loved the olive trees here. There is a story that once he happened upon a farmer who was chopping down one of the trees. The Archduke was horrified and immediately offered to buy the entire farm just to keep the farmer from chopping down the tree. Word spread and people kept an eye on the prince’s location. When he came near their farms they would run out with axes and begin chopping on an olive tree. Invariably the prince would offer to buy their farms, they would sell, and the princes estate grew to fantastic proportions.

    We have been in some elaborately ornate palaces throughout Europe. San Morroig is not one of those. Although it is a large house with big rooms and high ceilings, it is not ostentatiously ornate. With fabulous views of the ocean and coastline, it is furnished like a comfortable country house. I think I like this place. I could see Glenda and me having breakfast outside under the rosary trees on the terrace. I can certainly see why cousin Ludwig liked it here.

    The entire estate is now owned by American actor Michael Douglas.
    Leggi altro

  • Ahoy, Matey!

    2 maggio, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    We have finished the land portion of our trip, and now we move to the nautical portion. The Scenic Eclipse is our home now as we leave Barcelona and head out in the Mediterranean Sea toward Mallorca.

    All of us passengers gathered on the bow of the ship to take photographs as she cruised out of Barcelona harbor. Then we put away our gear in our staterooms and went for a fabulous supper with friends.
    Leggi altro

  • Heavenly Music

    1 maggio, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    The Basilica of Mercy is a church built here in 1249, although the present structure dates from the 1750’s. Dedicated to Our Lady, the Patron Saint of Barcelona, the church has been embellished by the nobility of Barcelona for nearly 300 years. Every square inch of this high Baroque sanctuary exudes the most devout expressions of Spanish piety.

    Tonight, however, the church served as a concert hall. A string septet performed the works of Pachelbel, Vivaldi, Beethoven, Ravel, and Mozart. For this last composer’s Ave Maria and his Ave Verum Corpus, a talented young soprano joined the troupe. Whether the composers intended their works to be religious or not, the ethereal sounds reflected from the domed ceiling, settling on an audience enthralled by music that seemed to come from heaven itself.

    Tonight’s performance suggests to me that Word of God often comes to us with no words at all.
    Leggi altro

  • Healing the Whole Person

    1 maggio, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    What we did know today was that we wanted to visit the Hospital of St. Pau. We knew it was built in the early twentieth century, and that it had been decommissioned in 2009, restored and made a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We also knew it is one of the foremost examples of modernist architecture in the world. That’s what we did know.

    What we didn’t know was that when the hospital was decommissioned in 2009, it became a huge new medical center, also called the Hospital of St. Pau. We asked our cab driver to take us to the Hospital of St. Pau. And he did so, letting us out at a sprawling medical campus, with ambulances screaming to the emergency department in a gargantuan complex of buildings framed with modern stone, glass and steel.

    Ooops! This was one of those little traveling mishaps. One must keep his sea legs on such days, so Glenda got instructions from two nice men wearing surgical scrubs outside the hospital entrance. They directed us to the opposite corner of the city block, where we found one of the most amazing healing centers in all of medical history.

    In 1401 a group of noblemen and some local ecclesiastical groups formed a society to create a hospital for poor people. All people regardless of nationality, status or income could come to be treated. They called it La Hospital de la Santa Creu, the Hospital of the Holy Cross. For six hundred years it has used the best in medical knowledge and equipment to bring healing to the sick and peace to the dying.

    At the turn of the century a group of forward-looking physicians contacted the famous architect Lluis Domènch i Montaner. They wanted him to build for them a hospital—but not just an ordinary surgical center. They wanted it to be beautiful. They wanted it to be filled with gardens full of orange trees and lavender. The walls were to be decorated with the finest art they could find. The staff called in orchestras to treat the patients to classical music, and later jazz. They believed that healing was as much a matter of healing the senses as of healing the body. So they wanted to treat their patients in the most beautiful place imaginable, with light and fragrance and beauty as part of their healing regime, with tunnels linking the twelve pavillions, each devoted to a separate medical discipline.

    The major benefactor was a millionaire named Pau Gil y Serra, who was named for St. Paul, so they added his patron saint’s name to that of the hospital. Now it is technically called The Hospital de la Santa Creu i San Pau. The complex was constructed between 1902 and 1930, and gradually poor and indigent patients found wholeness here.

    During the Spanish Civil War the hospital was commandeered by the government and renamed the Barcelona Medical Center. The abundant religious iconography on the campus was obscured by the Franco Regime. Afterwards, it resumed its original name and mission, and, in a separate new facility around the block, continues to do so today. It is still one of the leading medical centers in Europe. The first bone marrow transplant in Spain occurred here, and so did the first heart transplant.

    I was moved today by the original mission of the founders of the Hospital of St. Pau. Most medical treatment carried out in hospitals today occurs in theaters that are sterile, spare, Spartan, and, well—clinical. I wonder how medicine would change if society became convinced that part of the healing process occurs simply by being surrounded by beauty.
    Leggi altro

  • Perfect Peruvian

    30 aprile, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    A cab driver from Peru told us today that the best Peruvian food in Barcelona was on the 19th floor of our hotel in the restaurant Maymanta. The food was fabulous. Strong earthy flavors blended together perfectly. I would like to tell you that I'm going to show you pictures of each dish, but I can't because the moment the food arrived we started eating, and halfway through realized we had not taken pictures. Chef Omar Malpartido is known as one of the rising stars in the Barcelona food scene in this Michelin star restaurant. We started our meal with a wood smoked sourdough with a pepper butter and a honey butter spread. Next we enjoyed two scallops that were topped with a Parmesan cream foam. I ordered Traditional Anticucho—beef fillet street food style. It was served with 3 different sauces, street corn and roasted potatoes. Chuck ordered Lomo Saltado, a wood-fired, wok- seared beef served in a broth with fire roasted peppers, tomatoes and onions and crispy potatoes. The broth was exquisite. It was smoky and salty, with just a little bit of heat. Chuck's dish was served with a corn and rice mixture.

    After the meal , our Chef came over to our table to thank us for eating there. We told him we had never had Peruvian food but his food is now one of our favorite meals we've ever had in the world.

    If you're ever in Barcelona, go to the 19th floor of the Grand Hyatt and look for Maymanta. You will not regret it. Oh yes, and the view of the city of Barcelona from the nineteenth floor is magnificent!
    Leggi altro

  • Bird Art

    30 aprile, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Flying Art

    Today when we went to the National Art Gallery, I was intrigued by a piece of art that was made by birds flying. I’m attaching several videos and then the final photo is the piece of art made by the birds and their wing patterns.Leggi altro

  • An Olympian Dream

    30 aprile, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Have you ever dreamed of a place you have never been? I did that several times in the last twenty years or so. There was a beautiful, domed building than resembled the U. S. Capitol, but it was surrounded with gardens and palaces—just beautiful.

    Then, when we first came to Barcelona in 2014 our bus tour took us to the place. I recognized the building—the one in my dream. It was raining. Our guide told us it was a building constructed as the centerpiece of the 1926 Olympics in Barcelona. I took a crummy picture of the domed building in the rain, and I loved to go back and look at it repeatedly, as poor as the photo is, and I remembered that I had dreamed about the place.

    On a subsequent visit to Barcelona, a Hop-On-Hop-Off Bus took us by the building again, and I got a better picture, but I was with people who didn’t particularly want to get off the bus to visit the building. The guide told us it was an art gallery now, but it is still occasionally used for diplomatic meetings, conferences of heads of state and other official gatherings.

    On this beautiful spring day, however, we went inside. And it was glorious. The Museo Nacional de Arte Catalán was everything I had hoped it would be. It is noted for its collection of Romanesque and Medieval Art. Many of its exhibits consist of frescoes peeled from the walls of Christian churches from the fifth to the seventh centuries. We’re talking old Visigothic stuff! I felt as though I had been plopped down in the middle of a Disney World made especially for me.

    It is fascinating to see how the depictions of Jesus and the Apostles changed in the post-Roman world. They evolved into the medieval representations, and finally to those of the Renaissance. The displays of the decorations found in the apses of old cathedrals are again displayed in re-created apses, so that the geometry of the design is still intact. Some of the exhibits of later art show portraiture and some non-ecclesiastical art of Spanish masters such as Velasquez and El Greco. All of it was magnificent.

    Instead of visiting the modern art, Glenda and I found an elevator taking us up into the dome of the building and out onto an observation deck. There, with the whole city below us, we delighted to see the old city of Barcino, which we had visited yesterday. We finished up with a sandwich made from jamon iberico and a Spanish version of brie cheese we bought in the rotunda’s restaurant.

    We snagged a taxi driven by a woman from Peru. She brought us to our hotel and told us that on the top floor there is a Peruvian Restaurant, Maymanta, whose chef is known worldwide for his creative Peruvian cuisine. We plan to have dinner there tonight.
    Leggi altro

  • Heartbeat of Barcelona

    30 aprile, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Barcelona was famous in the early twentieth century for the rise of what became known as architectural modernism. Of course, the most famous of the Barcelonan modernists was Antony Gaudí, but there were others. Lluis Domènech i Montaner designed the Palau de la Musica Catalana for the Orfeó Catalá, and the building was financed by public subscriptions. Built between 1905 and 1908, it is the only concert hall in the world on the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

    The accompanying photos show similarities between Doménech and Gaudí, yet there are also some differences. While Gaudí refused to incorporate anything other than natural symbols in his work, the stage of the Palau has a huge statue of Catalán composer Josep Anselm Clavé on the left. On the right is a colossus of a pensive Beethoven, and above him are huge horses with riders besieging a Wagnerian Valhalla.

    Like most of the public buildings in Barcelona, the Palau de la Musica is striking in the complexity of its ornamentation. Sunlight pours into the concert hall through a thousand stained-glass windows. A large, bulbous sun in the center of the ceiling bulges downward like a glob of dripping honey. Green glass ballusters on the balconies each contain a twisted ribbon of wrought iron. Such creative, extravagant decoration could only be found in dreams, or possibly nightmares.

    The main purpose of the building, of course, is the presentation of music and drama, and, even though our schedule would not allow us to attend a full-dress concert in the evening, we did see (and hear) a 23-voice chorus rehearsing an ethereal contemporary piece that showed off the room’s acoustics. Over 600 concerts per year take place here, and the building with its many adjacent parlors and meeting rooms is a center for Catalán culture, art and even political gatherings. In some ways the Palau de la Musica has become the heartbeat of the culture of Barcelona. It was a privilege to spend the morning here today.
    Leggi altro

  • Some Things Never Change

    30 aprile, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    If you know us, then you know that on any flight, Chuck Cook will sleep the entire flight unless he wakes up to go to the restroom or to eat. I stay awake the whole flight whether it's a two hour flight, an eight hour flight or a 26 hour flight. I cannot sleep on an airplane. You can put me in business class or you can put me in economy. It doesn't matter. I'm going to be awake.. .. so yesterday we arrived and immediately followed our rule of do not nap now, but spend the day busy so that you can sleep that night and be on a regular schedule for the trip. We visited a couple places Chuck really wanted to see yesterday and at the very last spot, where Columbus met with Queen Isabella, I was leaning against the wall and fell asleep. At that point, Chuck realized we probably ought to go on back to the room because his wife was hammered. I got back to the room and rested for just a bit, had supper and at 8:30 we were in bed. We woke up this morning at 8:30 so 12 hours of sleep has totally restored me. We had breakfast in the hotel and then set off on our adventures for the day, which Chuck will tell you about in another post. There is a little robot that cleans the restaurant dining area. How cool is that! I wonder if I can get one for our house.Leggi altro

  • Sofia Restaurant

    29 aprile, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    The Grand Hyatt Barcelona is not just a hotel. It is a complex of facilities that take care of any need a traveler might have. Tonight we ate supper at one of their restaurants, Sofia, located just off the main lobby downstairs. We started with tapas, their iberico ham croquettes made from that delicious Spanish ham that tastes like nothing else in the world. First of all, “iberico” doesn’t just mean that it is ordinary ham that comes from the Iberian Peninsula. “Iberico” is a particular breed of hog. They feed them nothing but acorns, and the meat has a savory flavor unlike any other ham in the world.

    Next we shared a salad made of the freshest greens, apples, raisins and manchego cheese made locally. Finally our waiter brought us a four-cheese pizza straight from the oven. Tomorrrow night we may try their upscale steak house called LENA (They spell it with the “N” upside down. Cool.)

    So now, for the first time in forty-eight hours we are properly nourished, properly hydrated, and we are ready to get back on a normal sleep schedule.
    Leggi altro

  • Time Travel

    29 aprile, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Right around the corner from the cathedral, Barcelona has a wonderful museum of history.

    We took an elevator under the streets of the city and saw the ruins of the old Roman city of Barcino. Many of its houses and shops still show faded mosaic floors and paintings on the walls. It is quite far from the current port where we will board the Scenic Eclipse on Saturday. That distance makes me wonder whether the coastline may have moved since Roman sailors unloaded here.

    A fifth century Christian church was built in a time when the local bishop ruled not just the church, but every aspect of city life as well. I could still baptize a new believer in its beautiful baptistry. We saw buildings and artifacts made by the Visigoths after they replaced the Romans here, and other ruins made two hundred years later when Muslims made Spain an Islamic Kingdom.

    Finally we saw the throne room where Columbus petitioned their Christians majesties, Ferdinand and Isabella, for funds to buy three ships for an expedition to India. Unlike his contemporaries, however, he planned to do it by sailing west. You know the rest of the story.
    Leggi altro

  • Too Much of a Good Thing

    29 aprile, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    The actress Mae West once said, “Too much of a good thing is—WONDERFUL!” That’s the way I feel when I walk inside a Spanish church.

    People often confuse “The Cathedral” with the Basilica de la Sagrada Familia, the notoriously ugly building designed by Antony Gaudí. Last week workers finally put the cross on top. It still is not finished, though.

    In contrast to Gaudí’s basilica, however, workers began building this cathedral in 1390, did not get to building the roof for another hundred years, and it is not completely finished yet. I have rarely seen such a collection of chapels, altars, shrines, tombs and sarcophogi—each one adorned as though every angel in heaven’s host was about to die next week, and the artists felt every one must be preserved in marble and gold.

    The ornamentation in this church may be excessive, but even so, it is remarkable. Every inch of this enormous building is gilded, carved and decorated with the most exquisitely beautiful iconography a human mind can produce. The mind goes numb. It cannot absorb it all. And it is all so OLD. So very OLD. Once vivid painted sculptures bear the haze of centuries of incense smoke. The figures of the crucifixion in this church reach almost half way back to the time when the Son of God walked on earth.

    So to clear our minds we decided to take the elevator up to the roof’s steeples and lanterns, where we got a fantastic overview of this city. Neighboring buildings almost as old as this one surround us. Barcelona throws nothing away. A palace old in Columbus’s time now houses the city water department’s offices. This city’s age, its decor and its richness are all examples of incomprehensible excess, and it is all glorious.
    Leggi altro

  • The Grand Hyatt Barcelona

    29 aprile, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Our airplane arrived at 8:20 AM, so we did not expect our room to be ready. Nevertheless, a driver brought us to the Grand Hyatt Hotel on the northwest side of Barcelona. The staff here was most courteous. They let us stow our luggage, and then we just hung out for a while in the lobby to get our bearings. We decided to go into town for a few hours to see some of the sites. The concierge stowed our luggage and got us a taxi to take us downtown.

    We have arrived in Barcelona, one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. On a previous trip a guide told us that the name “Barcelona”came from the family name of Hamilcar Barca, the father of the great Punic general Hannibal. Now it seems that scholars are not convinced that was the case. The Romans called this place Barcino, the Latin version of the local name for this town. Apparently that was an ancient name for this trading post which became a small town. No one is quite sure where that name comes from.

    One difference between the Phoenicians and the Romans is that the Phoenicians, and their colony in Carthage, were traders. There is no evidence that they ever attempted to conquer other peoples. They simply traded with them. The Romans on the other hand were formidable militarists. Their legions went all over the Mediterranean world conquering people, enslaving them and bringing the slaves back to Rome. One would like to think that the nice guys would win, but in a series of Punic wars the Romans defeated the Carthaginians. That result seems to me as one of the sad facts of history.

    Of course maybe the Phoenician/Carthaginians weren’t such nice guys, after all. The Old Testament writers didn’t care for them or their god Baal, who required that every family’s firstborn infant be sacrificed to the deity.

    History, it seems, has a wicked sense of humor.

    More recently in this city there has been a strong political movement to separate from Spain. The language here is not Spanish, it is Catalan. The natives here consider themselves culturally and ethnically different from the Spanish. This area has elected Catalan separatists to Parliament for many years, but things came to a head a few years ago when the government of Spain had to send in troops to quell separatist riots. Since then the peace here has been an uneasy one.

    We don’t have a dog in that fight, so we are feeling welcomed and are being treated royally. Although one does have to be careful of pickpockets on La Rambla, the crowded pedestrian artery that runs theough the city. The art, culture and cuisine here are amazing. Many visitors come to see the architecture of Antony Gaudí, the local favorite son. His Church of the Sagrada Familia and his residential neighborhood, Parc Guell, attract tourists from all over the world. I must confess, however, I am not a fan. No wonder his name gave rise to a new word—gaudy.

    So as I enjoy my tapas and good conversation, pull up a chair and let’s do some people watching in Barcelona, one of the truly great cities of Europe.
    Leggi altro

  • Arrival in Barcelona

    29 aprile, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    We had a pleasant flight from the wonderful airport in Greensboro to Dulles Airport outside of Washington, D. C. , but our small Embraer 145 had no space in the cabin for carry-on luggage. Everyone had to “gate check” their carry-on. That means that when we de-planed, we had to pick up our luggage on the tarmac as workers off-loaded it onto the tarmac.

    Now we are here at the Barcelona airport but we can’t find our driver.

    I sent him a text message and he says he’ll be here in about 10 minutes. I think he expected us to go through baggage claim but we did not need to do that. We never check baggage. It will all work out.
    Leggi altro

  • GSO

    28 aprile, Stati Uniti

    We are leaving from the Greensboro airport today and changing airplanes at Dulles Airport near Washington, D. C. This is unusual for us because normally we leave from Charlotte. What a difference there is between this airport and Charlotte! This airport is sane. There are no crowds rushing about madly trying to show off or seem important. The TSA agents were friendly and relaxed. Everyone here is sitting quietly waiting for their flight the way sane people should. I think I like this place.Leggi altro

  • HOME AGAIN

    15 dicembre 2025, Germania ⋅ ☁️ 34 °F

    HOME AGAIN

    After a 9 hour flight, we landed in Charlotte, grabbed our stuff, caught the waiting shuttle to the parking spot and began our drive home to Asheboro. We laughed that it was colder in Charlotte than it was in Germany, even on top of the mountain to see Mad Ludwig’s castle. Bob and Ellen threw their luggage in their truck and took off for Mebane. It was a joy to travel with Bob and Ellen. Sharing a special trip with friends has created memories and a bond that can only happen when you travel together. While it was only 5 o’clock here, our bodies thought it was midnight so we ran to our favorite Mexican restaurant, had a quick supper, came home and went to bed. And now we begin the ritual of trying to get back onto Eastern Standard Time. Both of us were up at 2:30 this morning, but gradually we will move that internal clock in the correct direction so that by the weekend we may be on a regular sleep and wake schedule. It was a lovely trip and we are so glad we got to share it with friends, old and new. Making memories with friends is a gift we do not take lightly. Let us treasure one another.Leggi altro

  • Mad Ludwig

    14 dicembre 2025, Germania ⋅ ☀️ 41 °F

    After Austria defeated his army, King Ludwig II became reclusive and obsessed with the old Germanic sagas. The legends of Parcifal’s quest for the holy grail, the doomed love of Tristan and Isolde and the adventures of Lohengrin filled his heart and mind. Though he never renounced the Christian faith, the old Germanic tales became like Scripture for him, and he wanted to live like one of the old Germanic kings.

    So he used almost all of the resources of his kingdom, or in other words, he taxed his subjects, to create his own mythological German wonderland on a mountainside called Neuschwanstein. In the 1880’s he built a fairytale castle, magnificently furnished and embellished with paintings of all the old folk tales.

    Unfortunately we were not allowed to take photos of the inside of the castle, but if you use your imagination to envision the most fabulous palace possible, you won’t miss this castle by much. It is interesting, though, that somehow I cannot escape the awareness that this is a fake palace. If you have ever been in Buckingham Palace, or the Savoy Palace in Naples, or the Royal Palace in Amsterdam, their furniture is just a little bigger, a bit nicer, usually older, and everything is real. Here it is impossible to dismiss the fact that this entire building is Ludwig’s toy. Everything is new. Of course, it is made to look old, but there is a difference between a genuine antique and a reconstruction. This castle reminds me of the version of the Eiffel Tower in Las Vegas. This is a Las Vegas castle. It is like Parcifal at Disney World. Still, it IS beautiful, though make believe.

    Ultimately his government declared him to be insane, and imprisoned him at Munich. The day after he was imprisoned, he turned up drowned in a lake adjacent to the jail. No one was ever charged with the crime of killing the king, but the circumstances were questionable.

    I’m glad we came here today, but I kept asking myself the same question. Even if I could build a home this big, elaborate and opulent, would I actually do it? I don’t think so. What about you? Would you build such a house?
    Leggi altro

  • Sofitel Munich Bayerpost

    13 dicembre 2025, Germania ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    We just checked into the hotel. As we stood at the front desk, hundreds of men and women in formal clothing came in. The men looked immaculate in tuxedos and tails, and the women looked glamorous in their evening gowns. Apparently some sort of Christmas party is going on here. Too bad we didn’t get the invitation!Leggi altro

  • Celebration!

    13 dicembre 2025, Germania ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    Boy! Do Germans know how to celebrate!

    In Nuremberg today they were out by the tens of thousands in the Christmas market. The crowd occasionally got so thick that it was impossible to move. After a half hour of fighting the crowds we found refuge in the Frauenkirche ( the Church of Our Lady) in Nuremberg.

    The people are especially keen to celebrate right here—in Nuremburg. This town is regarded by Germans as the quintessential German city. It’s something like having Independence Hall, Times Square and Disney World all wrapped into one place.

    That is the reason Hitler wanted to have the 1936 Olympics here. Although he was Austrian, he wanted people to believe that he was the most German of Germans. That’s why he held his massive Nazi rallies here at Zeppelin Field. That’s also why the allies held the postwar war trials here at the end of World War II.

    Today war was the last thing on the minds of those reveling in the streets of Nuremberg. Everyone was celebrating. Every kind of Christmas cookie and fudge imaginable was calling my name. The fragrance of spiced wine wafted around every corner. Holiday hats, reindeer antlers and Santa Clause suits were all around us. A high school choir sang contemporary Christmas music.

    In short, the Christmas market at Nuremberg is a blast!
    Leggi altro

  • Christmas Magic in Regensburg

    12 dicembre 2025, Germania ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    Today at 1:30 we began a walking tour of Regensburg. The history of the city is amazing and we have written about this place in other blogs but this year the Christmas markets here were magical. After passing through several city Christmas markets on our tour, we wound at the Thurn and Taxis Christmas market on the palace grounds. I felt like I had stepped back into a medieval village. There were wood fires everywhere and stalls had meat and fish roasting on spits over open fires. All of the vendors were dealing in handmade items. The bread was baked in brick ovens. All the stalls were made of wood and decorated just like they would’ve been in medieval Germany. It was a thoroughly enchanting place and I was able to snag two beautiful small nativity scenes. All of our Christmas markets have been beautiful and charming, but the medieval Christmas market on the palace grounds surpassed anything we’ve seen so far. Chuck enjoyed some gluwein from one vendor. On the way back to the ship, we stopped at a place where Chuck and I’ve had sausages before when we were here. The family that owns the sausage grill has been using the same recipe for 600 years. A sausages are roasted over an open fire and truly are gloriousLeggi altro

  • Adventure in Salzburg

    11 dicembre 2025, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    After a 2 hour drive from the ship, we arrived in Salzburg. Our guide Hans was fabulous on our walking tour of the city. We passed the home where Mozart grew up and then we passed the home where he was born, and then we ventured into the Christmas market area, where we also saw the church where Mozart played. Sound of Music locations were noted along the way and our group even sang a song from the movie.

    Indulging in all of the traditional Austrian treats during our six hours in Salzburg, we devoured apple strudel and coffee at a traditional coffee house, and we had hotdogs with sauerkraut at the Christmas market. We purchased gingerbread and other treats and even ventured into a grocery store. I have never seen a larger selection of hotdog and sausages in my entire life. We even had time to spend a quiet 30 minutes in the where Mozart played as a young man.
    Leggi altro

  • The Other Mozarts

    11 dicembre 2025, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    We are in Salzburg, the town that gave birth to Mozart, and we saw not only the house in which he was born, but also a different house where he lived as a youth.

    I stood there in rapt admiration along with the rest of the tourists. Christmas Markets, the cathedral, and the castle overlooking the town are all magnificent. Salzburg is named for the legendary salt mines that have yielded their life-giving nutrient since Celtic times. It is no accident that the Roman soldiers here were paid in salt, hence the word “salary.”

    Somehow as we admired the many charms of this town, however, I couldn’t get my mind off another Mozart. I suspect that without him, we may have never heard of Wolfgang.

    The man I have in mind is Leopold Mozart, Wolfgang’s father. History has given him a bad rap. He is depicted as a paternal tyrant who beat his two kids into practicing their keyboard skills for no less than fourteen hours each day, and then hauling his wunderkind around the courts of Europe, making them perform like trained monkeys.

    But I wonder . . .

    Had it not been for Leopold, we may never have heard of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.

    Leopold had been a choirboy in his native town of Augsburg. He could sing remarkably well and was often invited to perform in choirs of churches other than his own. His father, a successful bookbinder, saw to it that Leopold received music lessons, and he became an accomplished violinist and organist.

    Although he had graduated with honors from his local school in Augsburg, when his father died in 1737 Leopold was struggling to find himself. He moved from Augsburg to Salzburg in order to study law and philosophy at the university. His parents had wanted him to be a priest, but he was more interested in science. Microscopes and telescopes interested him far more than religion.

    Things did not go well in school. He missed classes, not so much because he was derelict, but because needed to supplement his income. He did this by grabbing music gigs wherever he could find them. He was suspended from the university twice, and after two years, the school expelled him. Luckily his musical skills got him a job in the local orchestra of the Archbishop-Prince.

    Ever the pragmatist, Leopold excelled, becoming violinist and valet to one of the university canons. In 1740 he began to compose and publish his own compositions and to teach musicology. Within a few years he had enough money to marry. In the next few years he published over two dozen keyboard and orchestral compositions and a textbook on musical theory. The prince made him the assistant conductor of the orchestra and the assistant royal kappelmeister (choir director).

    Were they not overshadowed by the compositions of his son, Leopold Mozart’s works would be played today much more often than they are.

    And overshadowed they were.

    Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart began performing standard repertory works publicly at the age of three. He began publishing his own piano works at the age of six.

    You know the rest of the story. You have heard everything from the charming Eine Kleine Nachtmusik to the powerful, unfinished Requiem in D minor.

    But there may also be a few pieces of the puzzle we may have missed. For example, long after Leopold died, Wolfgang still sat at the keyboard over sixteen hours a day, without the prompting of his father. Wolfgang wrote the opera, “The Magic Flute,” which includes many references to the Freemasons, as a tribute to his late father.

    Another piece of the puzzle lies in the fact that Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was considered by many who knew him to be a nincompoop. He had a kind of screaming, cackling laugh which erupted at inopportune times. There are some suggestions that he often farted loudly, then laughed uproariously about it. He could not handle money. He may have delighted in poking people in their private parts just for fun and then screaming with laughter. It may be that he had something like Aspberger’s syndrome, Tourette’s syndrome or some qualities of a savant. It is as though all of his creative powers were funneled into composition rather than socialization.

    But, oh! Could he write music!

    Could it be that Leopold understood these things about his son and wanted to assure that he could make a living?

    Leopold was unusual in another way. Not only did he train his son to be a musician, he also taught a daughter. Maria Anna Mozart, nicknamed “Nannerl,” was six years older than Wolfgang, but Leopold trained her as he later trained Wolfgang. It was Nannerl who shared her piano lessons with her baby brother and got him started tinkering around at the keyboard. She also became a celebrated child prodigy and traveled to the royal courts of Europe in their concert tours at a time when girls performing publicly was unthinkable.

    Wolfgang adored his sister and considered her to be a better pianist than himself. She ended her career at age 17, returned to Salzburg, and became a noted music teacher. Marrying at age 33, she left her hometown. When her husband died in 1801, she returned to Salzburg, resumed teaching music, and performed regularly here.

    She is known to have composed music, though none of her manuscripts survive. I have to wonder whether some of her compositions might have eclipsed her brother’s.

    After Wolfgang died at age 35, she became THE authority about his life, contributing to the works of the many biographers who elevated her little brother into the musical pantheon.

    So today as I stand in Salzburg, I celebrate the memory and accomplishments of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, who contributed to my own young life more than I can describe.

    But I also celebrate the enormous talents of the other Mozarts.
    Leggi altro

  • The Power and the Glory

    10 dicembre 2025, Austria ⋅ ☀️ 45 °F

    Note: Some of the photos accompanying this post were taken in 2014, when we were allowed to take photos inside the monastery and the main church.

    Melk Abbey is a Benedictine monastery that has been praying daily for the world since the year 1089. A rebuilding program lasting for 40 years in the early eighteenth century has left us with a spectacularly beautiful baroque complex that houses a school, a library, a vineyard and a church whose beauty defies description. The rationalism of the late eighteenth century led to the closure of many monasteries whose only product was prayer. This cloister escaped the axe of Emperor Joseph II because it also produced wine, spices and educated students from its school.

    The school is still here, and its 800 students from age 10 to 18 must still study theology. In our inclusive age, however, a student here need not be Roman Catholic. She can be Evangelical; he can even be Muslim.

    Benedictines sing their prayers, and the 28 monks who still live here sing the daily office in a small chapel adjacent to the large Abbey Church. The noon service takes place in the big church, and the public is invited to worship with the brothers of the cloister.

    The entire facility is magnificent. Many of the dormitory rooms were made for the family and court of Emperor Franz Joseph and his wife Maria Theresa, who was especially fond of Melk Abbey. For this reason, none of the residences along the 600 yards of corridors can be called shabby. Most are used now for offices. A marble dining room made for the use of the royal family still stands with moveable lunettes to allow guests to hear the music of a chamber orchestra during their meals.

    The main church, a baroque masterpiece, beggars description. Marble and gold cover every surface from the high altar to the organ pipes up in the choir. A ceiling painted with images of clouds and angels could plausibly be described as a window into heaven.

    And yet. . .

    When I think of the hundreds of millions of dollars worth of art, precious stones, precious metals, gold-covered reliquaries, liturgical vestments and golden jewel-studded chalices used here, I have to wonder whether the humble carpenter from Galilee would approve. I must wonder how many poor starving Austrians could have been fed had those resources been used differently. I must wonder about orphans who were compelled to a life of labor rather than education. Could the abbey’s extravagant resources have been used to relieve their suffering?

    Possibly so, but when I see the beauty on display here, the meticulous care that prelates and craftsmen have given to the service of God in these buildings, the way the indescribable beauty of this abbey reflects the glory of God, I must finally conclude—I’m glad they built it.
    Leggi altro

Ottieni il tuo profilo di viaggio

Gratis

QR code

FindPenguins per iOSFindPenguins per Android