• Back to Bologna

    25 сентября, Италия ☁️ 77 °F

    Woke up on our last morning in San Marino to find the valley hidden behind clouds. Within 30 minutes, the clouds were disappearing, being replaced by blue skies and sunshine.

    With our check-out scheduled for 11:00a, we took our time. Breakfast was unhurried … with a second cup of tea as we read for a while. It didn’t take long to pack our carry-ons, put away the last load of dishes when the dishwasher finished its cycle, and take one last look around the apartment to make sure we weren’t leaving anything behind. By 10:45a, the apartment door was pulled closed behind us and we were walking the short distance to the Hotel Rosa lobby to check out.

    We’d arranged for an 11:30a transfer down to the bus station, but the car was available and the driver was ready, so we asked him to take us down once the formalities were completed.

    Our timing gave us to see the single-car antique train that runs to Borgo and back … a 20-minute ride we were told. While we still had 50 minutes before our Bonelli shuttle departure, we decided not to risk it. Antique train after all 😉.

    Instead, we went to the café overlooking the colorful roundabout with its rearing horse statue. A light snack to tide us over … cappuccino for me. Ooops! I forgot it was past 11:00a until after Mui had placed the order. Oh well … we were in San Marino, not Italy. Perhaps the “no cappuccino after 11:00a” rule could be excused this time.

    Our bus ride down the mountain road and through the castelli of San Marino can only be described as a “bus rally” … fast! It was obvious the driver was an old hand on this route. We made a few stops to pick up passengers waiting at stops along the way, but otherwise an uneventful drive brought us to the Rimini Train Station on time.

    From a text message I had received while we were waiting for the Bonelli shuttle departure, we already knew that there was a delay posted for our InterCity train to Bologna … 25 to 30 minutes … due to slow traffic on the rail lines.

    Hoping to get on an earlier train, we went to the ticket counter where the agent looked up various solutions. He came up with two — the Frecciarossa high speed train … completely sold out … and is it turns out, running behind schedule as well; and a TTPER regional train, which required a change. Weighing the pros and cons of switching to the TTPER, we decided to stick with our existing tickets. The agent even managed to change our seats to sit us facing each other by the window, laughing when Mui told him that we’ve been doing so for 45 years now!

    Rimini 55, a café across the street, turned out to be a good place — if a bit windy — to while away a bit of time before returning to make our way to platform 2.

    InterCity 608 departed Rimini Station at 2:15p … 28 minutes behind schedule … a delay that grew to 39 minutes by the we detrained at Bologna Centrale.

    I know the exact delay because the conductor announced it as we pulled up to the platform. They do this because depending on the type of train you are on, and the delay time, you are eligible for a refund on the fare. No can do for us. On InterCity trains, the delay has to be 59 minutes or longer to be eligible for a refund calculated on a sliding scale. Now, had we been on the Frecciarossa train, those 39 minutes would have netted us a 25% bonus to be used on another booking. Oh, well.

    Leaving Bologna Centrale, we hopped on bus #25, hopped off at the Via Ugo Bassi stop, and walked home from there. By 4:30p, we were relaxing with our feet up.

    We get to rest and do chores — and maybe a little sightseeing — before our next trip … 11 days hence.
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  • Città di San Marino: Wrapping Up Day 3

    24 сентября, Сан-Марино ☁️ 66 °F

    After spending the morning at the iconic towers of San Marino, we decided to take a break from sightseeing. It was almost 1:00p … time for lunch.

    Mui had done some research that led us to Ristorante Trattoria Ritrovo dei Lavoratori … which roughly translates as the meeting place of the workers. Located outside the immediate tourist center, it had a local ambiance. The menu listed a selection of local specialties … which weren’t all that different from what one finds on Italian menus. The food was good … the portions plentiful … the prices considerably less than most of the other restaurants in town.

    Tummies sated, we next went to a couple of state museums included in our admission ticket.

    First, we retraced our steps to the museum/art gallery at the cloister of the Church of Saint Francis … dating back to 1361. The collection was small … mostly consisting of Christian artifacts … some paintings, a couple of frescos, and several Carrara marble sculptures … the latter inside glass cases that made them impossible to photograph.

    From there, we went to the San Marino National Gallery, which is housed in the Volunteers’ Loggias that date back to the 1930s. The gallery is billed as exhibiting works by some of the most renowned artists of the 20th century. Interesting, but as it turns out, not really our cup of tea.

    We decided to skip the Coin and Stamp Museum since neither of us has much of an interest in philately and numismatics. By this time, having climbed up and down stairs and walked up and down steep streets, our feet were ready for a break anyway. Heading back to the apartment made sense.

    Around 7:30p, revived after a relaxing afternoon at the apartment, we bundled up against the nighttime chill and headed out for a wander to see the city’s monuments lit up at night … the streets all but deserted. I think I counted no more than 10 people walking around. A peaceful and quiet wrap up of our visit to the Republic and City of San Marino.
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  • Città di San Marino: The Three Towers

    24 сентября, Сан-Марино ☁️ 68 °F

    With blue skies and sunshine accompanying us, we set off to check out the iconic towers of San Marino … if you are willing and able to hike uphill — on paved paths and steps that are at times uneven and steep. It was definitely worth the effort.

    You can enter two of the three towers … admission included in the San Marino State Museums and Monuments tickets we purchased yesterday for €8 each … 65+ rate. The third one is permanently closed to the public. We opted to enjoy this tower from a distance instead of walking up to and around it.

    The Coat of Arms for the Republic of San Marino features stylized depictions of the three towers that are situated on the peaks of Monte Titano … ranging in height from 2,378 feet (725 m) to 2,480 feet (756 m) asl. I’m not sure where the first, second and third designation comes, but it makes sense that it might be based on when the towers were built … 11th, 13th, and 14th centuries, respectively. All have been reinforced and restored many times over the centuries, most recently during the 1900s.

    The towers each have more formal names by which they are known — again, respectively … Guaita, Cesta (or Fratta), and Montale. They are connected by a watch path that is 1+ km long. The distance certainly is deceptive as it looks like the towers are spread further apart.

    The towers were built for defensive and lookout purposes. In fact, Guaita is a Sammarinese word that means “to keep watch.” Through the centuries, at least two of them also served as prisons — Montale’s prison cells were 26 feet (8m) below ground … known as the “bottom of the tower;” Guaita’s detention cells were in use until 1970 … for sentences of less than six months.

    The plan for us was to take the uphill paved path all the way from the parking lot just outside the Fratta Gate to the Cesta Tower, and then return to the Guaita Tower via the alternative Passo delle Streghe (Pass of the Witches).

    We started out following the plan, but glimpsing a hole that creates an arch of sorts in the side of the cliff changed our route. We ended up using the Pass of the Witches both ways, detouring briefly to the paved path where required. The Pass is the scenic way to go … with amazing views of not just the country, but all the way to the Adriatic Coast of Italy. The highlight of the views were the towers and the fortifications.

    Since 1956, the Cesta Tower has been housing the Museum of Ancient Weapons in what were once rooms occupied by the garrison of crossbowmen who were stationed at the tower during medieval times. On exhibit is a collection of some 2,000 pieces of armament ranging from the 15th to the 17th century.

    The museum necessarily meant that we spent more time at Cesta Tower. The courtyard of Guaita Tower, however, added more charm to to the fortifications, so I liked it better. Also of interest here was the prisoner graffiti in the detention cells that were hidden for 200 years under layers of whitewash. One such graffiti — repeated throughout the cell — is of a bearded man whose identity remains a mystery to this day.

    After completing our tower visits, we followed the upper roads from the Guaita Tower, which took us to parts of the city that we had not yet explored and back down to the basilica.

    Time to get a bite to eat before continuing our wander around San Marino.
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  • Città di San Marino: Day 3

    24 сентября, Сан-Марино ☁️ 66 °F

    From the bedroom balcony, Mui took a ‘sneaky photo’ of me reading on the kitchen balcony and enjoying a second cup of tea.

    At that early hour, the day trippers had not yet put in an appearance and the city was nice and quiet. It was a crisp fall morning, requiring some layers to stay warm. Trust me … it warmed up nicely by the time we left to continue exploring San Marino.Читать далее

  • Città di San Marino: Day 2

    23 сентября, Сан-Марино ☀️ 68 °F

    Another beautiful, blue-sky day … comfortably cool temps that were on the warm side in the sun.

    We set out this morning with the idea of hiking the Sentiero della Rupe (the Cliff Path) that runs below and behind the iconic towers of San Marino. The trail is only about 3 miles long. However, you have to walk practically half-way down the mountain to reach the trailhead. No problem, we thought. Until we got to the trail and started hiking!

    The dirt path was strewn with decaying leaves that hid stumbling blocks waiting to trip the unwary. The uneven stone steps along the way spots covered in slippery moss … with nothing to stop you from tumbling off the narrow path. We hiked for about 10 minutes, spending the entire time watching where we put our feet. And this wasn’t even the stretch that we were warned could be dangerous.

    Nope … not fun. So, we retraced our steps to the trailhead, continued down into Borgo Maggiore, another one of this small country’s municipalities, and took the funivia (cable car) up to Città di San Marino. It took just two minutes to go back up the 1,000+ feet (305m) we had walked down in 30 minutes!

    The cable car dropped us off at the overlook in the lower reaches of San Marino. From there, we took a meandering stroll, going uphill and downhill streets … some of them relatively steep. We stopped to visit some of the sites marked on the map before going to La Terrazza, a restaurant with a panoramic view that includes the Public Palace.

    The beauty of arriving just as the restaurant was opening was that we had our pick of the two-top tables. The food was delicious; the wine perfect for our palate; and the lemon-flavored dessert very refreshing.

    After lunch, we planned to check out the council rooms at the Public Palace — one of the sites included in the combo ticket for the state museums and monuments … with the caveat that it is only possible when the parliament is not in session. No can do today, we were told. The State Museum itself was open, however, so we went there to wrap up our day of sightseeing.

    We have one more day left here and hope to use it to hike up to the towers … via the city streets that promise a steep ascent in places … but easier than a narrow, dirt path with hidden stumbling blocks.
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  • And the Answer Is … San Marino!

    22 сентября, Сан-Марино ☀️ 70 °F

    The Republic of San Marino … the world’s 5th smallest country … and perhaps the oldest constitutional republic as well, with a claim of having been founded in 301 CE. That’s where a 2 ½-hour train/bus trip from Bologna brought us today.

    This microstate, entirely surrounded by Italy, is situated on the slopes of the Apennine Mountains. Its capital city — also named San Marino — is one of the nine castelli (municipalies) into which the country is divided.

    The City of San Marino (or simply San Marino here on out) is a medieval walled city with narrow cobblestone streets. It sits atop Monte Titano … the highest point of the country. The historic center and the monte are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites … since 2008.

    Most people visit San Marino on a day trip. We’re staying three nights at a property that is in the high reaches of the city … just a short hike below the iconic towers set into the defensive walls. We’re looking forward to enjoying the peace and quiet before the day trippers arrive and again after they leave.

    Since we did not want to negotiate the steep cobblestone streets with our carry-on bags in tow, we arranged for the hotel to pick us up from the bus stop outside the city walls. Once we checked in at Hotel Rosa, we left our bags with the front desk and went off to have lunch.

    From the list of restaurant recommendations provided by the hotel, we settled on La Fratta … which turned out to be next door … though we took a roundabout way to get there. We were seated at a table along the railing of the balcony …overlooking Porta della Fratta … the entrance into the city through the older second set of walls. Tasty food; a glass of chilled Sangiovese di San Marino; a delicious crema de catalan served with a scoop of pistachio gelato. A perfect start to our time in San Marino.

    Our apartment was ready by the time we finished lunch, but we decided to walk off our meal first and get some groceries from the only ‘supermarket’ in the city. Our walk gave us an opportunity to meander through the streets, do a bit of window-shopping, and even get ‘acquainted’ with some of the stairs that take people from one level of the city to the next.

    We’re now settled into the apartment — recently renovated, clean, and spacious … though missing ‘decorative touches’ that would make it homey. Time to put together a plate of snacks and watch something on Netflix.
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  • Bonelli 11:45 to ???

    22 сентября, Италия ☀️ 75 °F

    On the shuttle to our final destination. Any guesses where we are going?

  • La Piazza si Riaccende

    19 сентября, Италия 🌧 75 °F

    “The Square Rekindling” … at Piazza Maggiore … the main square, around the corner from where we live.

    An exciting three-night event … a light & music show … the first night of which was part of a crowdfunding campaign that included a concert … and seating. We went tonight instead … to see the first of three nightly standing-room only shows scheduled at 9:00p, 10:00p, and 11:00p. The event lasts about 10-15 minutes, so standing was not an issue.

    The premise of the show is to bring to life the unfinished façade of the Basilica di San Petronio … set to the music of Rossini’s William Tell Overture. The building is used as a canvas for a videomapping installation conceived by Luca Agnani. The projected images depict the different architectural designs that were proposed over the centuries to complete the façade … including a more contemporary “green” tribute.

    Arriving about ½-hour before the show, we found the piazza crowded. It wasn’t long before it was literally packed. We wanted a slightly elevated place to stand so that I could see over all the taller-than-me people. We lucked out with a spot on the steps of the building across the square from the basillica. We were slightly off-center, and the canopies protecting the equipment were a bit of an irritant, but it was otherwise the perfect spot for viewing the show.

    As magnificent — and sometimes over-the-top — as the proposed façades were, I’m glad the basilica has remained as is. Its ‘unfinished’ look gives it a unique identity that seems to fit perfectly into the square where it is located.

    A great show … and worth postponing our upcoming trip by a few days to make sure we didn’t miss it!

    (The video is too long to post here, so I am including a photo slide-show. If you wish to see the video itself, click this link to go to my SmugMug Gallery for Bologna: https://eenusa.smugmug.com/Europe/BCIT/ExpIT/Bl….)
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  • SB Day 12: Bergen Disembarkation

    19 августа, Норвегия ⛅ 61 °F

    “Vort Hjerte veed, vort Øye seer,
    hvor godt og vakkert Norge er...”
    ~~ Henrik Wergeland; 1814; Norwegian Poet ~~

    (Our heart knows, our eye sees,
    How good and beautiful Norway is …)

    OK. Yes. I took these words from the Havila Kystruten brochure. It perfectly describes our sentiments about this trip — rain and overcast conditions notwithstanding.

    And so we arrived in Bergen … under conditions that were the total opposite of what they were when we embarked m/s Havila Castor on 8 August.

    Once the ship was tied up, the deck 5 gangway was deployed. Almost immediately, a stream of people began embarking the ship. It was literally like an invasion … in this case, by an army of cleaning staff coming aboard with vacuum cleaners, buckets, mops, and what have you to deep clean the public spaces. On none of our 65 cruises have we ever seen anything like it!

    We’d received instructions, which were repeated in a P/A announcement as we approached the terminal, that disembarkation would be done deck by deck. We were requested to wait for the appropriate announcement. And so we did.

    Well, if there were any announcements, we did not hear them … and we were right there in the deck 5 lobby. What ensued was a rather chaotic disembarkation. We waited for the crowd to dissipate. Around 3:00p, we had our ship cards scanned one last time before heading off the ship.

    The ground floor of the terminal was packed. At the far end were the northbound passengers waiting to check-in. At the foot of the escalator, where the conveyor belt for checked bags was in operation, were our shipmates, clamoring to get their luggage. I took the carry-on bags and went outside the terminal to wait while Mui waded into the crowd. It took him 15-20 minutes to come out with our two bags.

    Having compared the taxi fare from the terminal to the airport against the Havila transfer, we had booked the latter a few days ago. It was easy enough to find the bus, stow our luggage in the cargo compartment, and find seats for the ride. We had a bit of a wait for the rest of the transferees to show up, but we were in no hurry … we had several hours before our flight was scheduled to depart.

    And on that note … this segment of our ‘escape the August heat’ trip is now concluded.

    I had every intention of blogging the next segment — which will take us from Copenhagen to Helsinki, with stops in Germany, Sweden, and several Baltic countries. I’m afraid I am going to have to postpone that for now.

    So, I’ll just say ciao for now and see you all back in Bologna, Italy.
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  • SB Day 12: Bergen Bound

    19 августа, Норвегия ⛅ 59 °F

    The last day of our voyage.

    Overnight, we stopped in Ålesund, Torvik, and Måløy. The short stops went unnoticed. But I can’t say the same about the motion of the ocean between Torvik and Måløy. That was very much felt.

    To travel between these two ports, ships have to go around the Stad Peninsula into the Stadhavet Sea. The open water here is considered particularly treacherous because this is where the currents of the Norwegian Sea and the North Sea meet. There are no islands of any size to offer protection from the sea conditions. Some historians even claim that the Vikings used to haul their vessels overland to bypass the waters in question.

    Norway has come up with alternative manhauling vessels. To avoid this stretch, a ship canal/tunnel is planned that will cut through the Stad Peninsula. When completed, it will be the largest such maritime tunnel, allowing vessels up to 16,000 gross tons to pass through it. The contract was apparently awarded earlier this summer. Construction is expected to begin in 2027 and the canal/tunnel is scheduled to open in 2031. (More info here: https://tunnelbuilder.com/News/Norways-Stad-Shi….)

    Should be a soother ride. In the meantime, back to our day.

    We were at breakfast when we made the 15-minute stop in Florø at 8:15a. With nothing special planned for the rest of the day, we enjoyed a leisurely meal before returning to the cabin to finish packing.

    Even though we were not due to arrive in Bergen until 2:45p, we needed to vacate our cabin by 10:00a so that the crew could begin preparing for the northbound passengers who would be boarding once we disembarked. We met that deadline, placing our luggage in a designated area on our deck for the crew to move to the cargo area.

    The good news? We’d been promised great weather for this last day on the ship, and the promise was kept. So, in addition to the lounges, we had all the outdoor decks available to while away the time. We found a spot on deck 5 that gave us a place to enjoy the scenery when we were inside … and also leave our carry-on bags when we were outside or at lunch.

    With the gorgeous blue skies and sunshine, clicking the camera shutter was a pleasure, and the scenery was delightful.
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  • SB Day 11: Kristiansund

    18 августа, Норвегия ⛅ 54 °F

    Not to be confused with Kristiansand, which is just east of the tip of Norway … quite a distance from where we are presently.

    Kristiansund was today’s second long stop … longish is probably more accurate since we had just 50 minutes to wander around before the all aboard at 5:20p.
    Since this would be our last stop before completing the voyage tomorrow in Bergen, we decided to go ashore to stretch our legs despite the cold wind and the spitting rain. That we spent our first time here — in 2019 — visiting the deserted fishing village on nearby Grip Island, with just a short time in the city itself was an added inducement for our decision.

    (Photos from Grip at this link … we highly recommend this day trip if the weather is good … https://findpenguins.com/8pccjefaitoru/footprin….)

    Leaving Kristiansund, we were once again in rough seas for a while. Nothing too worrisome, but noticeable.

    Before calling it a night, we checked in for tomorrow’s SAS flight from Bergen to Copenhagen, where we will spend a few days before continuing our ‘escape the August heat’ trip.
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  • SB Day 11: Trondheim

    18 августа, Норвегия ☁️ 50 °F

    Last night was a bit rocky … probably the most motion we’ve felt at any point on this cruise, including the times when the vessel goes out to the open seas for a couple of hours.

    We had read that the timing of the long stops on the KB leg — Kirkenes to Bergen southbound — was not always optimum. That was definitely the case today when we stopped in Trondheim from 6:30a to 9:30a.

    Perhaps if we had not been to Trondheim before, I would have made an extra effort to go out for a while. But since that wasn’t the case, I decided to take it easy. Mui, already up and at ‘em for his morning coffee, went out to stretch his legs for a while, so I do have a few photos to share.
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  • SB Day 11: Stalking Olga

    18 августа, Норвегия 🌬 52 °F

    Mui’s an early bird.

    He gets up, gets dressed, and heads up to deck 6 to get a cup of coffee from the machine, check his newsfeed to catch up with the world.

    On m/s Havila Castor, he’s been visited by Olga every morning while he’s having his coffee.

    This morning, he decided to stalk her to see where she lives.

    Who is Olga? Well, you have to watch the video to find out.
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  • SB Day 10: Brønnøysund

    17 августа, Норвегия 🌬 54 °F

    Today’s long stop — one hour and 15 minutes in Brønnøysund — was scheduled for 3:00p. By then, any hope for sunshine was gone.

    The small coastal town greeted us with a stiff wind, that occasionally carried rain drops with it. We didn’t let that deter us from going ashore. The locals were smarter … at home, at work, or in the mall … cozy and warm, protected from the wind.

    We went for a wander around town, following the waterfront. We passed the mall … though we did walk through it on the way back; strolled by the local pub, which used to be a barber as well as a bar at one time; found the Brønnøysund sign that marks the geographic center of Norway … Lindenes Lighthouse 585 miles (840 km) to the south; Nordkapp an equal distance to the north.

    Continuing from there, we crossed over to the park on Lille Brønnøya (Little Spring Island) … using the bridge that connects it to the rest of the town. Billed as a cultural hub and a place for festivals, the park was all but deserted today. So, we continued inland from there toward the church, which was consecrated in 1870. Alas, it was closed, so we had to be satisfied with wandering the grounds … where we found a memorial from 1859 to the fishermen from Brønnøysund who lost their lives at sea.

    We were hoping that we’d find a place for a quick bite on the way back, but nothing really grabbed our attention, and the ice cream shop was closed. So, we meandered back to the ship, arriving a few minutes before the all-aboard.

    Around 6:00p, we joined Andy and Wendy for dinner at our assigned table … but did have to beg leave later to go out on the bow on deck 6 forward when the cruise director advised that we would be making a quick detour for a glimpse of the hole in the center of Torghatten, a granite mountain that is 850 feet (258m) asl.

    The scientific explanation for the hole … it was carved out of the softer rock by glacial ice and water during the Scandinavian Ice Age.

    But what mountain with such a unique feature wouldn’t have a legend associated with it? 😄

    According to Norse folklore, the hole was made when a troll king shot an arrow to stop the beautiful girl he was trying to abduct from escaping his clutches. The king of Sømna threw his hat in the path of the arrow to stop it from hitting the girl … and the hat turned into the mountain with a hole … which explains the name … Torghatten = the hat of Torg.
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  • SB Day 10: Brønnøysund Bound

    17 августа, Норвегия 🌧 55 °F

    Leaving Sandnessjøen, Mui went down to the cabin for a nap … I set myself up at ‘my table’ in the Havblikk Lounge, going outside whenever something caught my eye.

    I was especially hoping to see the Seven Sisters Mountain Range … which is associated with a legend. Trolls, of course.

    The short story is that seven troll sisters took advantage of their father sleeping one night to escape his watchful eye. What they didn’t know was that Vågekallen was lying in wait for them, hoping to catch one of the girls — if not more. What followed was a pursuit with other trolls joining in to rescue them. Unfortunately, they all forgot to keep an eye on the rising sun. And as dawn broke, they were all turned to stone.

    As it turns out, the peaks were mostly hidden by clouds, so all we got was a peek-a-boo view.

    At one point, we had beautiful blue skies … but only in one direction … and only for a short time. But seeing the bright scenery did wonders and elevated everyone’s mood.
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  • SB Day 10: Sandnessjøen

    17 августа, Норвегия 🌧 54 °F

    I skipped lunch today. Wasn’t hungry anyway.

    But the real reason was to get a glimpse of Sandnessjøen when we made our short stop there right around 11:45a.

  • SB Day 10: Nesna

    17 августа, Норвегия ☁️ 52 °F

    From Ørnes, m/s Havila Castor continued onto Nesna for its next 10-minute stop … just long enough for us to go on deck for a few photos.

  • SB Day 10: South of the Arctic Circle

    17 августа, Норвегия ☁️ 54 °F

    At just about 9:00a this morning, we crossed back south of the Arctic Circle.

    No, these are not the same photos from when we crossed north. I went out and took them myself!

  • SB Day 10: Ørnes Reflections

    17 августа, Норвегия ☁️ 50 °F

    Our day started with a quick 20-minute stop in Bodø. At 2:30a, we both slept through it.

    Next stop … Ørnes for 10 minutes at 6:25a found me still asleep. But Mui was up as usual, enjoying a cup of coffee in the lounge.

    Knowing my love of reflections, he surprised me by returning to the cabin with photos he took … red cabins mirrored on the flat calm waters.
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  • SB Day 9: Svolvær … A-Wander

    16 августа, Норвегия ☁️ 54 °F

    Leaving the Lofoten War Memorial Museum, we went for a stroll around town, heading in the direction of the church … even though we knew it was closed. We did find a few things of interest in the park behind the church, so the walk wasn’t for naught, and it gave us a chance to stretch our legs.

    We returned to the ship shortly before it was due to depart from Svolvær. For some reason, though, the ship was delayed by almost an hour. Perhaps a ship’s excursion late returning to the ship. Or, to ensure we passed m/s Havila Capella for the traditional flag waving between the two ships.
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  • SB Day 9: Svolvær … Lofoten Krigsminnemuseum

    16 августа, Норвегия ☁️ 55 °F

    Today’s long stop came late in the day.

    Cruising for three hours after exiting Trollfjord, we were scheduled to arrive in Svolvær in the Lofoten Islands around 6:30p. Since we would be out and about in town during our designated dinner time, we went to the dining room for an early meal.

    Disembarking the ship, we were struck by how quiet it was in town. Ahhh, yes … Sunday! So, when we realized that the Lofoten War Memorial Museum was about the only place open, we ended up spending much of our time there.

    Part of the Museum Nord organization now, it was established as a private museum in 1996 by a man named William Hakvaag. An avid collector of all things related to WWII, he described his museum as “non-partisan.” Indeed we found everything from Norwegian, to German, to Allied Forces in the exhibit.

    Something I didn’t know is that the first WWII raid of any consequence happened in the German-occupied Lofoten Islands on 4 March 1941. Many of the Norwegians who fought in the battle around Narvik was from the Lofotens. Thus, it’s not surprising that the nucleus of the artifacts on exhibit are local and personal.

    Despite the small size of the museum, the collection is incredibly extensive and eclectic. Every nook and cranny is filled with objects from WWII … including what is generally accepted as being Norway’s largest collection of WWII military uniforms.

    If there was any rhyme or reason to the way the displays were set up, it wasn’t immediately apparent to us. Frankly, as interesting as the museum was, it was also a bit overwhelming. We ended up simply wandering around, stopping to read labels when something caught our eye. I’m sure we missed a great deal more than what we actually saw.
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  • SB Day 9: Raftsundet Strait & Trollfjord

    16 августа, Норвегия ☁️ 55 °F

    We were hoping for sunshine — or at least dry conditions — for the special Trollfjord detour that we knew was on today’s schedule … though the exact timing was not known until this afternoon.

    No can do. We had overcast skies and rain … from drizzle to light and steady. Those who had stayed up for the Trollfjord cruise on the northbound leg told us that the weather was worse. Plus, they had to contend with nightfall.

    Trollfjord — home to the oldest rocks in Norway — is an arm of Raftsundet Strait. Short and narrow — only about 1.5 mile (2.5 km) long and a little less than 330 feet (100m) wide at its narrowest point — access to this fjord is limited to small vessels. Coastal ferries can cruise in and out … provided conditions are optimal. That we were able to do so today is something for which to be grateful … regardless of the rain that was a constant companion.

    There is a legend associated with Trollfjord that explains how the fjord was formed. As one might expect in Norway, the main characters are trolls — Vågåkallen and one-eyed Hinnøy. The story involves a feud over whose cows can graze the pastures along the Raftsundet Strait.

    I am sure that if you search the web, you’ll find at least one version of the legend. The short story has the two trolls engaged in a heated fight; Hinnøy falls and his axe creates gash in the earth; when he pulls the blade out, the sea floods an inland lake; and thus the fjord is formed. There’s more to the story, which involves a goat being hurled to a mountain top, but that is neither here nor there.

    Bundled up in our rain gear, we opted to watch the in/out Trollfjord cruise from the ship’s bow … deck 6 forward. There were fewer people here, allowing us to move around to various vantage points. Once we reached the head of the fjord, the m/s Havila Castor sviveweled 180-degrees in place and cruised back out the way it came in.

    Once we left the fjord, we headed indoors to relax with a cup of hot tea while the ship continued onward to today’s long stop in the early evening.
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  • SB Day 9: Stokmarknes … Hurtigrutemuseet

    16 августа, Норвегия 🌧 57 °F

    Departing Sortland for our next port, we had rain on and off. A good time to watch the scenery go by from the comfort of a lounge … a cup of hot tea in hand.

    The distance to Stokmarknes was relatively short … took us just over an hour. We were scheduled to be in port for an hour … leaving us with 50 minutes to see what we could see. Not much in town, we were told by the cruise director … along with the suggestion to check out the Hurtigrutemuseet … less than 5-minutes on foot from where our ship would be docked. So, that’s what we did.

    I’ve mentioned that Hurtigruten is Havila’s competition. The other way around is probably a more accurate description, since Hurtigruten began plying the coastal express waters in 1893. Its name literally means “the express route.” As such, the museum is dedicated to the history of the ‘route, rather than the ‘company’ itself. As closely as the two are intertwined, however, the lines between them are definitely blurred.

    Hurtigrutemuseet — aka the Coastal Express Museum — is owned and operated by Museum Nord, a regional museum organization in Northern Norway. It works in close cooperation with Hurtigruten, however, as the company has not only contributed historical artifacts and archival photos, but also a retired coastal vessel.

    The m/s Finnmarken — which is on display in the purpose-built glass building — is the focal point of the museum. In fact, if you look closely at the building as your vessel approaches Stokmarknes, you can make out the ship inside … like a ship-in-a-bottle, if you will. I bet it is quite a sight to see when approaching the after nightfall as the vessel is lit up and more clearly visible then.

    Our visit to the museum was fast-paced … not nearly enough time to read the info panels and also wander the decks of the Finnmarken … built in 1956 and retired in 1993. So, we focused on the ship, figuring we could read more about the history of the route online. Even then, we didn’t get to see everything … the engine room being one of the places we skipped.

    Going aboard the ship, which is often described as the “last classic Hurtigruten ship,” was fun and interesting. That we managed to do so without tumbling down the steep ladders … or bruising our shins on the ‘knee-knockers’ … well that was a bonus 😜

    (knee-knockers = maritime slang for coamings, the high sills at the bottom of doors on ships)
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  • SB Day 9: Sortland

    16 августа, Норвегия ☁️ 57 °F

    Around 12:30p, m/s Havila Castor arrived at its berth in Sortland … a 30-minute stop. One of the unique things about this stop is that the timing of the “Taste of Vesterålen” excursion bus is timed to coincide with the ship sailing under the Sortland Bridge. I looked but didn’t see a bus.Читать далее

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