• День 126

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 4 (Morning)

    15 апреля, Indian Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Breakfast time has been getting earlier and earlier.

    We have moved from 8:00a to 7:30a to 7:00a over the past few days. The early breakfast today was driven by the helicopter excursion to Mitchell Falls … an optional outing that we decided to skip because we’re still babying my recent vertigo episode.

    While those who signed up for the falls were transferred out in groups of eight, the rest of us went for a cruise on the Xplorer. We motored around the islands of Montague Sound and went into Hathaway’s Bay. There were interesting rock formations to see, including a Hart Dolerite intrusion through Wunaamin Miliwundi. Despite’s Anne’s lecture, the geology is still Greek to us. Though, in this instance, the chocolate colored dolerite was clearly different from the cream and red bands of rock that dominate the area.

    Along the way, we stopped to check out ancient palms that are endemic to the Kimberleys. We also spotted sooty oystercatchers, a pair of ospreys on a nest, and at least one eastern reef egret. As we followed the coastline, Anne pointed out middens that are evidence of the long occupation of the area by the ancient inhabitants of the land. We wrapped up the outing with a slow cruise along the mangroves, looking for crocs. No luck alas.

    We returned to the Coral Discoverer a little after 9:30a … had a bit of time to rest up and grab a cup of tea. And then it was time for the engine room tour, led by Sam, the Second Engineer. He told us a bit about what we would be seeing in the engine room while we were still in the dining room where our group met. The briefing was essential since the engine room is very noisy and we’d be wearing ear protectors in there. He also warned us that even with only one engine running while we are at anchor, it would be hot … 38-39C. Whew!

    After checking out the engine room, we went into the mechanical room where the A/C; water making system; and black and grey tank systems are located … amongst a whole bunch of other machinery. I found the intake vent bringing air in from the outside and enjoyed the cooler air as Sam answered questions here since it was slightly quieter in this room.

    With our engine tour over by 11:00, I went upstairs to the Sun Deck to do some writing and enjoy the slight breeze.
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  • День 125

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 3 (Afternoon)

    14 апреля, Австралия ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    Returning to the Coral Discoverer for lunch, we didn’t have much time to relax before we found ourselves back in the Xplorer.

    Our destination this time was the wreck of a C-53 Sky Trooper on the Anjo Peninsula. The aircraft, which crash landed here in 1942, is the cargo version of the DC3 aircraft.

    Once again, we were told to prepare for a wet landing, but got a dry one right onto the beach. We arrived as the tide was just coming in across the salt pans beyond the small dune we had to negotiate. This was a boon because we didn’t have to make the long trek across the white-sand beach that was reflecting the sun right back at us to go around the salt pans. Instead, we crossed to the woodlands, walking through ankle-deep water … stopping to check out the hermit crabs where the land was still dry.

    On reaching the site of the wreck, the expedition team held everyone back so we could all get people-free photos of the site. Steve then gathered us in a semicircle around the edge of the wreck and told us about the wreckage and how it got to be here.

    The story goes that there was no navigator onboard the C-53 and the aircraft lost its way in bad weather. Running out of fuel, the young pilot — an American — was forced to make an emergency landing in the savanna woodlands that cover most of the area. The story ends well. All onboard survived and they were rescued a few days later by a Qantas flying boat.

    We were next split into two groups … one exploring the wreck site; the other walking off to look for birds. When we swapped places, we didn’t see any birds, but the melodious song of the butcher bird sounded periodically. Nor did we glimpse the agile wallaby the other group saw. We did spot a feral cattle sitting in the shade, and a ton more hermit crabs.

    By the time we were ready to cross the salt pans again, they were covered with water too deep to wade through. So, we had to trek through the bush in a wide circle to get back to the beach … part of the walk through prickly grasses that made us happy that we had opted for long pants despite the heat.

    On returning to the vessel, we had a short respite before it was time for Steve’s presentation, “Jewels of the Top End” … a talk about the flora and fauna of the Kimberleys. Any other time, I would have been front row-center, but the hot and humid hike this afternoon was just too draining. In fact, not only did we skip the lecture, we skipped drinks on the Sundeck and the documentary after dinner.
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  • День 125

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 3 (Morning)

    14 апреля, Австралия ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    Today we had our first experience with Aboriginal Rock Art … estimated to be around 10,000 to 20,000 years old!

    After breakfast, we gathered up our stuff and headed off on the Xplorer for a landing on Jar Island … in Vansittart Bay. The Island was so named in 1819 for Macassan pottery shards that were found here. Nowadays it is best known for the three easily accessible Gwion Gwion (sometimes spelled Giyorn Giyorn) rock art sites.

    Gwion Gwion (aka Bradshaw) rock paintings are one of the two traditions of the Kimberleys. The paintings have been categorized into two styles. These are not the earliest Aboriginal paintings … hope to see some of those at other sites.

    We were told there was the possibility that this would be a wet landing so we went prepared for that. As it turns out, the tide was out so the gangway was deployed onto the beach and we didn’t have to get our feet wet. Hiking across the sand, we followed a narrow path through the grass … some of it prickly.

    Following eroded rock plates, we eventually came to an area where we were split into two groups … one set doing the easy and hard walks; the other set doing the moderate walk. And then we swapped places. Mui and I opted to do the easy-hard first.

    True, we had to clamber over rocks and squeeze through some narrow paths between boulders on the way to the “art gallery.” And once we got there, we had to lie down on rocks and squirm around a bit to see some of the art painted on the bottom of protected ledges. Nonetheless, I’d be hard pressed to consider the hike a “hard” one.

    After swapping places with the other group, we trekked to the moderate site, which, by far had some of the best rock art … though some of them were particularly hard to photograph.

    We wrapped up the outing with a cruise around Jar Island, checking out some of the interesting formations and using our imagination to find dragons and toads.
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  • День 124

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 2 (Afternoon)

    13 апреля, Австралия ⋅ 🌬 91 °F

    After lunch, we went off on our first Xplorer cruise.

    The Xplorer is an aluminum boat that is like a mini military landing craft. It has a shallow draft and can get into reasonably shallow waters after the outboard engines are pulled up. A small gangway folds down from the squared off bow for easy disembarkation from the boat. No disembarkation today, however, as this outing was a scenic cruise, with an opportunity to get wet by transferring to the zodiacs that accompanied us.

    Coral Discoverer has one Xplorer, which is carried on a platform on the stern of the ship. There is an ingenious winching system that raises and lowers the boat from the Main Deck, where passengers board, to the water level.

    (I’m not sure I mentioned that there are only 44 paying-guests on the Discoverer on this expedition, so we’re able to spread out on the Xplorer more than usual.)

    We had a fairly long ride through Koolama Bay to the mouth of King George River — which is hidden from view until you are right in front of it. As a result, the river remained unseen by early seafaring explorers who came to Australia. Though Aboriginal people knew about the river, it wasn’t until 1911 that the white man first recorded this feature of The Kimberleys.

    On our way to the river, we made a few stops for Anne and Steve, our guest lecturers, to speak to us about what we were seeing. In Anne’s case, she pointed some of the geology that makes the area special. In Steve’s case, he told us about the Koolama Incident, which involved the WWII bombing of a ship by that name … by Japanese zeros. The expedition team as a group pointed out interesting birdlife along the way … osprey, Brahminy kite, eastern reef egret; crested tern.

    Once at the mouth of the King George River — named in honor of the coronation of King George V — we cruised into what is essentially a gorge with towering red sandstone cliffs stained black by algae. Known as the Warton Sandstone, this layer is some of the oldest rocks on earth … dating back some 1.8 billion years. Precariously perched rocks and weathering of the cliff face added additional interest to the layered rocks. As did colorful honeycombed rocks known as tafoni.

    The highlight of our outing was Oomari Falls … often referred to as King George Falls. The twin falls are located at the head of the river. Like the mouth of the river, the falls remain hidden from view until you are practically upon them. You can hear them well before you can see them.

    An amazing sight … especially this time of the year when the water flow is high following the recently ended wet season. In fact, our cruise to the Kimberleys is the first of the season because this is not an area that can be explored “pleasantly” prior to the end of The Wet.

    Those who wanted to feel the power of the falls up close and personal were invited to transfer to zodiacs for a ride into the cataracts. We were happy to cool off with the mist carried on the air.

    An excellent first look at the hidden landscape treasures of the Kimberleys.

    Returning to the Coral Discoverer, we had ½ hour to rest before we were “invited” to the Sundeck Bar for drinks. And then it was time for dinner and a movie … the latter, a documentary entitled “Malice or Mutiny” … telling the story of the Koolama Incident Steve had told us about. (Too long to share it here, but if interested, you can read about it at this link … https://museum.wa.gov.au/maritime-archaeology-d….)

    Early call tomorrow … time to rest up.
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  • День 124

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 2 (Morning)

    13 апреля, Timor Sea ⋅ 🌬 86 °F

    We had an unusual start to our day … an uncommon occurrence on an expedition!

    We got to sleep in this morning as breakfast was at 8:00a! All because the schedule was turned on its head due to the delay leaving Darwin yesterday. When I rolled out of bed around 7:00a, Coral Discoverer was still sailing through the Joeseph Bonaparte Gulf … heading towards Koolama Bay for today’s off-ship Xplorer activity at King George River.

    After breakfast, we went on a tour of the bridge. Well, tour is a bit of an exaggeration, since the bridge on this 70-pax vessel is quite small. But our group of 10 squeezed into the space and Captain Josh explained about the instrumentation while Captain Peter, who will be taking over for the next expedition leaving from Darwin, was manning the helm as part of his familiarization training in these waters.

    Next up, Anne gave a lecture entitled “The Making of The Kimberley’s Coastal Sculptures.”
    She made use of a multi-layered sandwich to demonstrate how the rocks were shaped by the movement of the tectonic plates … the bread slices representing the hard rocks and the peanut butter and Vegemite representing the softer rocks. Her lecture also briefly delved into the Aboriginal creation ancestors — The Wandjina. We hope to see some of the art she showed us later during this expedition.

    I actually think it was good that today’s schedule was flip-flopped … moving the lecture to the morning. This allowed us to get a better grasp of the formation of the landscape we would be exploring this afternoon. And it underscored that we are in a region with some of the oldest rocks on earth … dating back some 1.8 BILLION YEARS … a number that is hard for me to wrap my head around.

    By the time we were finished with lunch, it was time for us to prep for our afternoon outing.
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  • День 123

    Kimberley Expedition: Day 1

    12 апреля, Timor Sea ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    What is The Kimberleys?

    It is the region in the far northwest corner of Australia … often described as the Earth’s last true wilderness area. It is the part of Western Australia that has rock formations that date back billions of years. It is an area of stunning natural landscapes … ancient Aboriginal rock art … wildlife … and more. It is one of the parts of Australia that had the earliest settlements … with the first humans going back some 65,000 years.

    We will get to experience a tiny piece of all this during our 10-day expedition. And it all started with boarding our expedition vessel — Coral Discoverer — around 8:00a at Darwin’s Fort Hill Wharf.

    Once onboard, we were directed to the dining room where tea/coffee/scones were set up. We were then invited to check-in to our cabin. B21 — our cabin — was easy to find. Go up one set of stairs to the Promenade Deck and walk all the way to the aft. The cabin is comfortable … if basic. We are next to the access door to the aft promenade deck, which I expect we’ll be making good use of to get around the ship.

    Due to an issue with one of the cranes used to load/unload the zodiacs, we were not on the move until 10:00a. Even then, Coral Discoverer just sailed out to an anchorage in Darwin Harbour to continue the repair work. The good news? The delayed departure won’t impact tomorrow’s plans … except for flip-flopping activities ... lectures in the morning; off-ship exploration in the afternoon.

    As has been our experience on other expeditions, our day was a busy one … settling into the cabin; exploring the public decks to acquaint ourselves with the vessel’s layout; taking advantage of the open bridge policy for a visit and chat with the Duty Officer; attending the muster drill and the mandatory safety briefing … followed by the expedition briefing by Katie, our Expedition Leader (EL). And that was all before lunch.

    By the time lunch was over, Coral Discoverer was on its way for real, heading out to the Timor Sea.

    After a break of about an hour, the afternoon activities picked up … a helicopter briefing for those wanting to book the optional outing to Mitchell Falls (we’re taking a pass … don’t want to risk triggering my vertigo); an introductory lecture about the Top End and The Kimberleys. And then it was time for Captain Josh’s Welcome Drinks … followed by dinner. But wait. We weren’t done for the day. After our meal, The Kimberley episode from the BBC Coast series was screened in the Bridge Deck Lounge. A good way to wrap up the first day of the expedition.

    Time to turn in for the night. We’ve been told that the forecast is looking good for our trip and Coral Discoverer should not be dancing much as we make our way from the Timor Sea to the Indian Ocean.
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  • День 123

    Darwin: Coral Expeditions … Kimberleys

    12 апреля, Австралия ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    Embarking the 70-pax Coral Discoverer for our expedition trip to the Kimberleys in far northwestern Australia. We will be traveling from Darwin to Broome.

  • День 122

    Darwin: Top End Birthday Celebration

    11 апреля, Австралия ⋅ 🌙 82 °F

    After the loud music during dinner at Shenanigans, we needed some peace and quiet. So, we headed to the Esplanade, intending to stroll back to the hotel. The ever-changing sunset colors slowed our steps.

    Mother Nature’s celebration of my special day!

    Tomorrow we head off on our Kimberleys Expedition!
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  • День 122

    Darwin: Pre-Expedition

    11 апреля, Австралия ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    After collecting our bags at DRW, we hopped in an Uber for the ride to the Double Tree by Hilton on the Darwin Esplanade … the same hotel where we stayed prior to our rail journey on the Ghan earlier this month.

    Once we were settled in the room, we went down for a light lunch poolside. Now that “The Wet” is over, the humidity wasn’t as bad as we’ve experienced on previous visits to Darwin. Definitely comfortable enough to sit in the shade.

    After lunch, Mui went out to run errands. I used the time to update my journal. When he returned to the hotel, we used the guest laundry to wash a few things. By 5:00p, our chores done, it was time to head out for a birthday dinner at Shenanigans … with a slight detour when we came across St Mary’s Star of the Sea Cathedral and I spotted some stained glass windows to photograph.

    This St Mary’s is the second one in Darwin. The first one was severely damaged during the WWII bombing of the city in February 1942. Mass was being said when we arrived, so we took a seat in a back pew and waited for the service to be over. The stained glass windows were worth the wait. We even spotted two small tributes to the US War Office and the US Air Force for assisting in the defense of Australia during WWII.

    Dinner itself at Shenanigans was good. But the music level from the live band was an abomination. So loud that we could barely hear ourselves speak even though we were on the far side of the patio. How anyone who was close to the band could even stand to sit there is beyond me!
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  • День 122

    ADL to DRW

    11 апреля, Австралия ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    An early flight today from Adelaide in South Australia to Darwin in the Northern Territory.

    Having checked out the security queue at ADL yesterday we knew it was going to be looong. So, we skipped the breakfast included in our room rate and walked to the terminal around 5:30a. Good timing. The queue was long(ish) but moving steadily. That changed pretty quickly for those who piled in behind us.

    The Embraer 190 that would be taking us to Darwin pulled up to the gate at 6:53a. Not a good omen for our 7:35a departure. We were indeed delayed for about 80 minutes … due to an “engineering issue.” Ugh!

    Once onboard, the flight was uneventful. Breakfast was served once the plane leveled off. We flew over varied scenery as we made our way north through the Red Center of Australia. Alas, my porthole was badly scratched … missed a lot of good photo ops … caught a few.

    The cockpit crew made up 20 minutes of the delay and we were only an our late when we landed at DRW.
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