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Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
Feb – Mar 2025

Remote Weddell Sea Explorer

For our fourth, and what we believe will be our last trip to the white continent, we opted for a unique and challenging itinerary. Read more
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  • Trip start
    February 2, 2025
    Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    1Preliminary itinerary video ... a new FindPenguins feature.

    We Are Off … Almost!

    February 1 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    Our next adventure starts in about 21.5 hours … when the driver picks us up from our house in Colorado Springs for an overnight stay at a hotel near Denver Airport [DEN].

    I used a new feature of FindPenguins [https://findpenguins.com] to create a very rough itinerary video of our plans. As I add footprints, the map will provide a better visual and I will post another video at the conclusion of the trip.

    How our plans actually shape up is TBD … especially once we leave for the Great White Continent.

    When traveling from the furious forties to the roaring fifties and screaming sixties — and even further south — Mother Nature is in full control. Her whims will determine where we go … what we do.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    We're overnighting at the Residence Inn near DEN — Denver, CO.
    Our studio suite at the Residence Inn near DEN — Denver, CO.Dinner at DiCicco's — Denver, CO.DiCicco's — Denver, CO.DiCicco's — Denver, CO.Detail from the decor and murals around DiCicco's — Denver, CO.

    O/N Near DEN

    February 2 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    An uneventful drive this afternoon brought us to the Residence Inn by Marriott for our overnight stay in advance of tomorrow’s outbound flights.

    Once we were settled into our room, we walked across the street to DiCicco’s for an early dinner. Good food; interesting ambiance … which the restaurant’s website describes as “old world.” We even had entertainment … a made-for-TV documentary program featuring Frank Sinatra singing songs — many of them duets with the likes of Peggy Lee, Ethel Merman, Dean Martin, and more — that he never recorded.

    Looking forward to a quiet night before we begin our trip in earnest.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    No worrries ... this is not our aircraft ... DEN — Denver, CO.
    United flights waiting for pax ... DEN — Denver, CO.Luggage art ... DEN — Denver, CO.Bye, Bye Colorado ... DEN — Denver, CO.

    Outbound Leg 1: DEN-IAH

    February 3 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Busy day at DEN.

    We arrived at the Jeppesen Terminal around 9:00a … it took 45 minutes to drop off bags; use the TSA Pre✔️ line to get through security; and take the automated train (packed to the gills) to concourse B.

    The longest part of the whole process was the security line. The TSA Pre✔️ lines are no longer as short as they used to be. But it’s included in our Global Entry membership and still worth it … if for no other reason than not having to remove electronics and stuff.

    We have 10 minutes to go before boarding is called. It’s a bright sunny day here in Colorado. Anticipate no delays.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Writing the FindPenguins footprint for our layover at IAH — Houston, TX.
    We have a view of airport operations from our seats at the UA Polaris Lounge @ IAH — Houston, TX.Lunch at the UA Polaris Lounge dining room at IAH — Houston, TX.

    Layover @ IAH

    February 3 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    UA738 was on the ground at Houston IAH 20 minutes ahead of its 2:46p CST scheduled arrival.

    Once we deplaned at Terminal C, we used the Skyway — an automated people-mover that runs on an elevated track — to get to Terminal E. Our destination … the UA Polaris Lounge … which we have access to on the outbound leg of our trip thanks to the upgrade we received from United.

    We found a couple of empty seats, dumped our bags, and went to the lounge dining room for a tasty, perfectly-portioned lunch.

    It’s now 5:30p … we have about two hours to go before boarding is called for the flight that will be taking us to Buenos Aires, Argentina. Time to relax.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Our route from IAH to EZE — Houston, TX.

    Outbound Leg 2: DEN-EZE

    February 3 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 73 °F

    The aircraft that will be taking us to Buenos Aires just pulled up to the jetway.

    Any other time, I’d be thinking that we will have a delay departing. But this aircraft arrived from London this morning and has been resting here all day.

    The UA app gives our route map … looks pretty straightforward.

    Last post for today! Next time I post, we will be in Buenos Aires.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    The B777-200 that was our air chariot arriving at the jetway @ IAH — Houston, TX.
    A nice little cubby in Polaris Business on United ... thanks for the upgrade UA — IAH, Houston.All set for this flight to get going ... IAH — Houston, TX.Screenshots from the in-seat monitor showing our route and arrival in Buenos Aires, Argentina.Landed at EZE ... just before the rain messed up any photo-ops — Buenos Aires, Argentina.Mui arranging for a remis to take us into the city for our overnight near the domestic airport — EZE

    Welcome to Argentina

    February 4 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    A slight delay leaving Houston, but otherwise an uneventful flight. The meal service started as soon as the aircraft reached cruising altitude. Tummies sated, we put our seats in lie-flat mode and slept the rest of the flight away … waking about 2 hours before we landed.

    9 hours and 23 minutes later, having flown 5,094 miles, we were landing in a drippy Buenos Aires. Although the weather forecast showed rain throughout the day, the only time we got wet was as we were leaving the airport.

    Thanks to all the changes Aerolineas Argentinas made to our domestic flights over the past several months, once we cleared immigration and customs, we needed to transfer to a hotel near the domestic airport — AEP. To do that, we used the services of Tienda Léon, which operates a reliable shuttle and remis [car with driver] service. We arranged for a remis right before we left the secure arrivals area … easy peasy.

    The ride to Bulnes Eco Suites, in Palermo — a barrio [neighborhood] of Buenos Aires — is just under 20 miles, but the drive — in what passes for ‘smooth traffic’ in the city — took about 70 minutes.

    Now, to stay awake for the rest of the day.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    The Obelisco on Avenida 9 de Julio — Buenos Aires, Argentina.
    "El Condor" ... a mural — Buenos Aires, Argentina.Parroquia Nuestra Señora del Carmen — Buenos Aires, Argentina.Supreme Court of Argentina at Plaza Lavalle — Buenos Aires, Argentina.Streetscape from Plaza Lavalle — Buenos Aires, Argentina.Teatro Colón — Buenos Aires, Argentina.Entrance to one of the subway stations — Buenos Aires, Argentina.Metropolitan Cathedral overlooking Plaza de Mayo — Buenos Aires, Argentina.Metropolitan Cathedral — Buenos Aires, Argentina.Mausoleum of General San Martin @ Metropolitan Cathedral — Buenos Aires, Argentina.Cabildo, former colonial government building ... now a museum — Buenos Aires, Argentina.Plaza de Mayo with Casa Rosada at the far end — Buenos Aires, Argentina.Basilica of St Francis of Assisi — Buenos Aires, Argentina.Horacio Butler's tapestry ... "La Glorificación de San Francisco” ... at the St Francis Basilica.Street art that I am naming "Sippin' the ubiquitous maté" — Buenos Aires, Argentina.Street art — Buenos Aires, Argentina.

    A-Wander in Buenos Aires

    February 4 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    It wasn’t quite noon when we arrived at the Bulnes Eco Suites for our overnight in Buenos Aires. Our room, wasn’t available for check-in. So we dropped off our bags for safe-keeping and went out for a wander.

    Our plan was to have lunch at a tapas restaurant and bar recommended to us by our friend, Julio. What that essentially meant was that we followed Google’s directions for the next two hours or so, meandering here and there on our way there. Since we’d spent time in Buenos Aires on previous trips, we were OK with what was an otherwise aimless stroll along mostly residential streets … though we did eventually get to some of the city’s major landmarks.

    The good news? We got nearly 13,000 steps under our belt. The bad news? Even though the website said that the tapateria opened at 1:00p, it was still locked up tight when we got there around 3:00p. No matter. We found another restaurant not too far away. We got as far as ordering our meal and were sipping our beverages when the power went off! The waitress came by to apologize and tell us that they could only serve the salad Mui had ordered. Oh well … at least the salad was good … and we did get some tapas to go later to eat-in after we checked into our studio suite at Bulnes.

    Early day tomorrow!    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    2Breakfast at Le Pain Quotidien at AEP — Buenos Aires, Argentina.
    The bread slices are generous at Le Pain Quotidien ... if only we'd known that before ordering!

    Off to Cataratas del Iguazú

    February 5 in Argentina ⋅ 🌧 75 °F

    We’re back at the airport. This time at Aeroparque Jorge Newberry [AEP] … for a domestic flight to Iguazú Falls … a 2-night/3-day stay.

    It’s raining in Buenos Aires … deluge, with the wind blowing the rain sideways would be a more accurate description. It doesn’t look like there is rain at our destination today … if you believe forecasts, that is. That it will be steamy — with a high of 94F — goes without saying.Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Still raining as we push back from our gate @ AEP — Buenos Aires, Argentina,
    Flying over Rio Iguazú ... En route to IGR in the Argentine province of Misiones.A dense carpet of trees covers every inch of land ... en route to IGR.Shades of green ... en route to IGR.Welcome to Iguazú Falls International Airport — Argentina.Today there was none of the chaos we've come to expect from Aerolineas Argentinas ... Bravo indeed!

    Welcome to Puerto Iguazú

    February 5 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Although boarding was delayed 30 minutes at AEP, we were in the air on time at 8:10a, leaving the rain behind.

    An uneventful flight brought us to Iguazu Falls International Airport [IGR] 9 minutes ahead of schedule. The rain had already passed through … leaving behind tendrils of steam rising from the pavement heated from the sun.

    We are going to have a hot couple of days!

    By the way, none of the chaos we experienced in 2006/2007 with our Aerolineas Argentinas domestic flights was in evidence today. Everything was easy-peasy. Of course, that could be because of how early our flight was this morning. So, I am going to reserve judgment until after we complete the remaining three flights we’ve got booked with them. In the meantime, they deserve a kudos for today’s experience.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    En route to the Triple Frontier Landmark — Argentina.
    En route to the Triple Frontier Landmark — Argentina.2I wonder how many of the animals that make the rainforest home we will see ... if any?The ferris wheel is in Brazil ... on the way to the Triple Frontier Landmark — Argentina.En route to the Triple Frontier Landmark — Argentina.At the Triple Frontier Landmark — Argentina.Ferry crossing the Paraná River from Argentina to Paraguay ... from the Triple Frontier Landmark.Border checkpoint in Paraguay ... from the Triple Frontier Landmark — Argentina.The bridge spans the Paraná between Paraguay (L) & Brazil (R); but the road construction is ongoing.Selfie time with Paraguay & Brazil behind us ... from the Triple Frontier Landmark — Argentina.The Iguazú River, coming from the right, joins the Paraná River at this confluence.The ubiquitous "big letters" photo op ... at the Triple Frontier Landmark — Argentina.One of the colorful murals in the town of Puerto Iguazú, Argentina.

    Iguazú: Hito Tres Fronteras

    February 5 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 88 °F

    A small aircraft + a small airport + no checked bags = getting off the plane and through the terminal easy-peasy.

    Outside the terminal, we were met by Ernesto, our driver for today. The plan, he explained, was to first go to the Triple Frontier Landmark … about 30 minutes from the airport. But with multiple stops along the way for photo-ops, it took us twice as long to get there.

    The Triple Frontier is the confluence of the Iguazú and Paraná rivers. These two rivers form the boundaries between Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay, essentially making the overlook we went to a spot from which one can see three countries.

    Photo-ops completed, we drove back the short distance to the Falls Iguazú Hotel & Spa for free time … much appreciated since we got such an early start this morning, and the steamy 94F temp was quite draining.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    The Madero Tango show is at the showroom at the local casino — Puerto Iguazú, Argentina.
    Two of the tango dancers at the Madero Tango show — Puerto Iguazú, Argentina.A clip from the Madero Tango show — Puerto Iguazú, Argentina.A clip from the Madero Tango show — Puerto Iguazú, Argentina.

    Iguazú: Madero Tango

    February 5 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Our tour package included a tango show that I’d categorize more as a tango and folklore show.

    There was a bit of a communication mishap in that our tickets actually included a 7-course degustation experience. But we were told dinner was not included, so we ate at the hotel before a driver from the tour company picked us up and drove us to the show venue in Puerto Iguazú. Oh well.

    The show featured more than just tango dancers … there were also gauchos performing with boleadoras … a lariat with balls at one end … used to catch animals by entangling their legs; drummers performing with Bombo legüeros … a traditional Argentinian drum made of a hollowed tree trunk covered with a cured animal skin; and dancers who would have been the envy of Cirque du Soleil performers.

    It was a nice wrap up to our first day in the Iguazú area.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    The only jaguar we saw today ... yes, it was on a poster inside the Iguazú Falls National Park.
    Map showing both the Argentinian (right) and Brazilian sides of Iguazú/Iguaçu Falls.The intersection where the inbound shuttle train was waiting for us to pass by — Iguazú Falls NP.Crossing Rio Iguazú Superior ... the river above the falls — Iguazú Falls National Park.The falls at Devil's Throat — Iguazú Falls National Park.View of the falls from the Devil's Throat balcony — Iguazú Falls National Park.We managed a selfie @ Devil's Throat despite getting wet as we did so — Iguazú Falls National Park.Falls from the Devil's Throat balcony — Iguazú Falls National Park.Silky smooth falls — Iguazú Falls National Park.Glimpsing the falls through the foliage ... on the Superior Circuit — Iguazú Falls National Park.1Superior Circuit view of the falls — Iguazú Falls National Park.Superior Circuit view of the falls — Iguazú Falls National Park.Superior Circuit view of the falls — Iguazú Falls National Park.Superior Circuit — Iguazú Falls National Park.2Looking down the cataracts ... Superior Circuit — Iguazú Falls National Park.Superior Circuit view of the falls — Iguazú Falls National Park.For perspective, find the people on the viewing terrace ... Superior Circuit — Iguazú Falls.Some of the critters from today — Iguazú Falls National Park.1Coati ... visiting our train car ... looking for a handout — Iguazú Falls National Park.

    Iguazú: Exploring the Argentinian Falls

    February 6 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    This morning we joined 10 other people to explore the Argentinian side of Iguazú Falls.

    Once we purchased our admission to the park, Jorge (our guide) got shuttle train reservations for the ride to the last stop to see the infamous Devil’s Throat, the canyon where the Argentinian and Brazilian Falls sort of unite (see map).

    Yes, we got a bit wet from the clouds of mist billowing up from the water plunging into the canyon … how can you not when the flow over the falls today measured at 1.7 million liters PER SECOND! (That’s about 450,000 gallons per second.) No matter … it was worth it! Not to mention refreshing.

    And then off to do the Circuito Superior … a boardwalk trail that follows the top of the falls for peek-a-boo views through the heavy foliage.

    It was 94F with high humidity … miserable, in other words. We were drained by the time we got back to the trailhead. And we needed some sustenance before we could proceed with the on-the-fly plan we had made to further explore the national park.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Boats awaiting riders for the Gran Aventura — Iguazú Falls National Park.
    The route the Gran Aventura boats take — Iguazú Falls National Park.We'll return to this side of the falls later — Iguazú Falls National Park.And we are off to the Devil's Throat Canyon ... won't be going in too far — Iguazú Falls Natl Park.Gran Aventura — Iguazú Falls National Park.Gran Aventura — Iguazú Falls National Park.Gran Aventura — Iguazú Falls National Park.Gran Aventura — Iguazú Falls National Park.Gran Aventura — Iguazú Falls National Park.Gran Aventura — Iguazú Falls National Park.Gran Aventura — Iguazú Falls National Park.What we looked like to our new friends Van & Patrick from the Lower Circuit — Iguazú Falls

    Iguazú: Gran Aventura

    February 6 in Brazil ⋅ ☁️ 90 °F

    We knew about the boat adventure that sails up Rio Iguazú Inferior … the section of the river below the falls.

    We really had no plans for doing it. Instead, we were going to walk the Lower Circuit trail while we waited for those doing the boat ride. But then, it was so darned hot that we sweated buckets. Suddenly, a cool ‘shower’ or two under the falls sounded like a great idea.

    Our Iguazú Jungle Gran Aventura started with a 25-minute truck ride over bumpy, dirt roads to the boat embarkation point … which was 200+ steps down from where we were dropped off. Collecting heavy-duty waterproof bags for our valuables, socks, and shoes, we donned life vests. And off we went on a wild and woolly ride that left us soaked to the skin! I’m telling you, there wasn’t an inch of skin left dry! It felt good, though … and the 94F heat dried us out (mostly) by the time we were finished with the return truck ride and rejoined our group.

    (I included a couple of videos with this footprint. But for the real McCoy, I have to wait until Mui can process his GoPro video … my phone was safely secured in the dry bag before things got too wet!)    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    6Gran Aventura on Rio Iguazú — Iguazú Falls National Park, Argentina.

    Iguazú: Gran Aventura in Motion

    February 6 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 91 °F

    A short snippet of our boat ride to take a ‘falls shower’ … thanks to Mui’s GoPro footage we have a record of our adventure.

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    The Argentinian falls from the Path of the Falls on the Brazilian side of the river.
    The Argentinian falls from the Path of the Falls on the Brazilian side of the river.Map showing the Path of the Falls trail in Brazil — Iguazú Falls National Park.Looking across to the Argentinian Falls from Brazil's Path of the Falls.2Argentinian Falls from the Brazilian Path of the Falls.The Argentinian falls from the Path of the Falls on the Brazilian side of the river.Panorama of the Argentinian Falls from Brazil's Path of the Falls.This would have been us yesterday at the mouth of Devil's Throat Canyon.Looking across to the Argentinian Falls from Brazil's Path of the Falls.Rainbow time! — Argentinian falls from Brazil's Path of the Falls trail.The Argentinian falls from the Path of the Falls on the Brazilian side of the river.Left is Brazil; right is Argentina .... the boardwalk that partially spans the river.The boardwalk over the river affords an up-close-and-wet look at Floriano (L) and Devil's Throat.Looking downstream from the boardwalk in Brazil to the falls in Argentina.Panorama of Brazil's Floriano Fall (L) and the Argentinian falls from the head of the boardwalk.Brazil's Floriano Fall from the head of the boardwalk.Looking across to the Argentinian Falls from Brazil's Path of the Falls.At the end of the boardwalk ... face to face with the Devil's Throat ... as seen from Brazil.The Argentinian falls from the Path of the Falls on the Brazilian side of the river.Black vulture — Iguazú Falls National Park, Brazil.We were at that overlook yesterday.Great Egret at the Brazilian Falls.

    Iguaçu: The Falls from Brazil

    February 7 in Brazil ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    “Argentina has the falls; we have the view!”

    So joke the Brazilians … or so Jorge told us on our way to Brazil to see the falls from a different perspective. I can categorically say that the joke is no joke! It’s the absolute truth. Not that we didn’t enjoy the our experience yesterday in Argentina. But today, seeing the falls from the opposite bank of Rio Iguazú was an exceptional experience. The two sides of the falls complement each other beautifully.

    Following the Path of the Falls, we had spectacular views of the Argentinian falls … before arriving at the boardwalk that crosses the river for an up-close-and-wet look at Brazil’s very own Floriano Fall.

    By the way, the flow over the falls today was a bit heavier than yesterday … 2 million liters PER SECOND (528,000+ gallons)!    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Our air chariot awaits to whisk us south to Ushuaia ... @ AEP — Buenos Aires, Argentina.
    As we roll down the runway at AEP — Buenos Aires, Argentina.Bye bye Buenos Aires, Argentina.Comfy in our seats, we are looking forward to re-visiting Ushuaia.Longer flight = beverage + snack.

    Bye Bye BsAs … Again

    February 8 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    Following a post-Iguazú Falls hotel stay in Buenos Aires [BsAs] last night, this morning we returned to AEP for our next domestic flight with Aerolineas Argentinas.

    This time we are flying south to Ushuaia. Everything went smoothly at the airport … no delays … no mishap … bags weighing in at under 15kg (~32 lbs) each as allowed by this airline … time enough to grab a light breakfast before boarding was called.

    Uneventful flight so far … two hours to go to reach our destination.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Glimpse of the Andes as our plane begins its descent into Ushuaia, Argentina.
    Hello Ushuaia!Can't miss the iconic photo-op — Ushuaia, Argentina.Argentina may have lost the Falklands War, but they claim Ushuaia as the capital of the islands.We are definitely quite a distance away from most of the world's big cities — Ushuaia, Argentina.Third time getting a haircut from Fernando makes it a tradition ... photo from 2015.Mural at Isabel Cocina al Disco ... our dinner spot — Ushuaia, Argentina.Cheers from Isabel Cocina al Disco — Ushuaia, Argentina.Mui deemed his Parmesan king crab delicious — Ushuaia, Argentina.Taste-testing alfajores — cookie sandwich with a dulce de leche filling ... dipped in chocolate.View from our AirBNB — Ushuaia, Argentina.

    Welcome to Fin Del Mundo

    February 8 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Welcome to "Ushuaia, fin del mundo, principio de todo."

    The slogan of the city, located at the southern tip of Argentina, translates as "Ushuaia, end of the world, beginning of everything."

    Though the Chileans would disagree, the Argentinians claim Ushuaia as the world’s southernmost city. The claim is generally accepted as true. You see, although Puerto Williams, Chile is indeed further south, its population is too small for it to qualify as a city. In any event, the city's slogan, is a way for Ushuaia to promote its status as a gateway to Antarctica.

    Our flight from BsAs was uneventful; no problem settling into the AirBNB that will be our home for a few days. We’ve done our grocery shopping; we’ve wandered around the city for a bit. As has become a tradition, we’ve gotten our pre-expedition haircuts from Fernando at Staff Stylos. We’ve enjoyed a hearty meal at Isabel Cocina al Disco … watching today’s fleet of Antarctic expedition vessels heading off on their journeys. And we’ve taste-tested two brands of alfajores to sate our sweet tooth.

    Time to get some shuteye!    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    The ubiquitous big-letters selfie — Ushuaia, Argentina.
    The wreck of the St Christopher — Ushuaia, Argentina.Magellanic penguin mural — Ushuaia, Argentina.The Gateway to the Antarctic — Ushuaia, Argentina.I see my first king penguin before we even set off for South Georgia Island — Ushuaia, Argentina.Mui's new wheels 😊 — Ushuaia, Argentina.A beautiful mural — Ushuaia, Argentina.One of the statues near government house — Ushuaia, Argentina.Mural at Club 1210 ... where we will be dropping off our bags on embarkation day — Ushuaia.Falkland Islands (Islas Malvinas) Memorial — Ushuaia, Argentina.Detail from the Falkland Islands (Islas Malvinas) Memorial — Ushuaia, Argentina.Memorial installed for the 30th anniversary of the Falklands War — Ushuaia, Argentina.Carved statue — Ushuaia, Argentina.Reflections on Bahia Encerrada ... a nature reserve in the city — Ushuaia, Argentina.Reflections on Bahia Encerrada ... a nature reserve in the city — Ushuaia, Argentina.An immature black-crowned night heron @ Bahia Encerrada — Ushuaia, Argentina.Black-crowned night heron and a gull at Bahia Encerrada — Ushuaia, Argentina.Southern lapwings at Bahia Encerrada ... — Ushuaia, Argentina.Gunther Plüschow ... the first man to explore and film Tierra del Fuego and Patagonia from the air.View towards Bahia Encerrada ... from our apartment — Ushuaia, Argentina.Mountains in B&W — Ushuaia, Argentina.

    A-wander in Ushuaia

    February 9 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    This is our fifth time in Ushuaia. We’ve pretty much seen and done much of what the city and area have to offer visitors.

    The main reason we give ourselves extra days in Ushuaia prior to embarking an expedition vessel to Antarctica goes back to our first time here … in 2006/2007. On that occasion, one of our gear bags didn’t make it onto the flight from Washington, DC to Buenos Aires … a nonstop flight, no less. It took three days for us to be reunited with it in Ushuaia … just 12 hours before we were to head south to the White Continent. (It’s also why I make an inventory of the contents of each bag … in case I have to shop for missing items.)

    Anyway, all went well with yesterday’s flight … nothing went missing. So we used our free time today to relax and just wander around. And also to find the luggage drop-off point for embarkation day.

    (P.S. I always take a photo of the St Christopher … today was no exception. Here’s the story of the wreck of the St Christopher for anyone interested … https://ushuaiatravel.com/en/the-saint-christop….)    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Panorama of Ushuaia from Bahia Encerrada.
    Crested Ducks ... Bahia Encerrada — Ushuaia, Argentina.Crested Duck ... Bahia Encerrada — Ushuaia, Argentina.Kelp Gulls ... Bahia Encerrada — Ushuaia, Argentina.Kelp Gull shooing off an immature gull ... Bahia Encerrada — Ushuaia, Argentina.Blackish Oystercatcher ... Bahia Encerrada — Ushuaia, Argentina.Blackish Oystercatcher ... Bahia Encerrada — Ushuaia, Argentina.Shag & Gull ... Bahia Encerrada — Ushuaia, Argentina.Shag ... Bahia Encerrada — Ushuaia, Argentina.Shags ... Bahia Encerrada — Ushuaia, Argentina.Shags with a Gull ... Bahia Encerrada — Ushuaia, Argentina.Blackish oystercatcher with a Crested duck ... Bahia Encerrada — Ushuaia, Argentina.Gull ... Bahia Encerrada — Ushuaia, Argentina.Chimango Caracara ... Bahia Encerrada — Ushuaia, Argentina.Chimango Caracara ... Bahia Encerrada — Ushuaia, Argentina.South American Terns ... Bahia Encerrada — Ushuaia, Argentina.South American Terns ... Bahia Encerrada — Ushuaia, Argentina.

    Ushuaia: Birds @ Bahia Encerrada

    February 10 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

    The plan for today was to go back to Bahia Encerrada, the nature reserve in the city … to visit with the birds and take photos, but also to circumnavigate it for exercise and sightseeing.

    But Ushuaia’s notoriously unpredictable weather put paid to those plans.

    I was happily taking videos of the South American terns that were fishing at an outflow channel when suddenly the temperature dropped at least 10 degrees and an icy-cold wind started blowing seconds later. Mother Nature started spitting sleet … and then rain … and then snow … and then rinse and repeat.

    Time to find some shelter.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    I can't resist a photo of the ubiquitous big letters with flowers and sunshin.
    Our lunch spot ... Doña Lupita — Ushuaia, Argentina.Our lunch spot ... Doña Lupita — Ushuaia, Argentina.Our lunch spot ... Doña Lupita — Ushuaia, Argentina.I find more penguins — Ushuaia, Argentina.Mosaic mural — Ushuaia, Argentina.Mosaic mural ... Ushuaia was founded as a penal colony.Mosaic mural — Ushuaia, Argentina.Mosaic mural — Ushuaia, Argentina.Mosaic mural — Ushuaia, Argentina.Birds of a feather — Ushuaia, Argentina.Ushuaia, Argentina.Ushuaia, Argentina.White chocolate penguin — Ushuaia, Argentina.Parilla being prepared at a local restaurant — Ushuaia, Argentina.

    Ushuaia: Empanadas & Murals

    February 10 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    To get out of the chill and wind that developed suddenly, we headed up to Doña Lupita, an empanada place that came highly recommended. We were not steered wrong.

    After a casual, but tasty lunch, we wandered some of the side streets to check out the murals we had glimpsed on our way to the restaurant. The bonus? The sun came out briefly and helped to warm us up.Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Kaupé ... dinner here has become a tradition for us — Ushuaia, Argentina.
    Dinner with a view ... Kaupé — Ushuaia, Argentina.A rainbow sees tonight's expedition vessels off on their journey ... from Kaupé — Ushuaia, ArgentinaCheers from Kaupé — Ushuaia, Argentina2A delicious meal at Kaupé before we head south to the Antarctic — Ushuaia, Argentina.Painting of Kaupé — Ushuaia, Argentina.

    Ushuaia: Our Kaupé Tradition

    February 10 in Argentina ⋅ 🌧 43 °F

    Kaupé = We are home … in the local indigenous language.

    Having dinner at this family-owned and operated restaurant is one of our pre-Antarctica expedition traditions. The ambiance is warm. The food is delicious. And we are always treated like we are one of the family. Indeed, it feels like we are home.

    —————————————————

    For those interested …

    Appetizers: Mussels; Caprese Salad
    Main Courses: Grilled Octopus; Chilean Sea Bass
    Dessert: Wedges of chocolate mouse on a bed of dulce de leche    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Ortelius snug in its berth! — Ushuaia, Argentina.

    Ortelius in Ushuaia

    February 10 in Argentina ⋅ 🌧 37 °F

    Ortelius — the Oceanwide Expeditions vessel that will be taking us on our polar adventure — is snug in its berth at the pier in Ushuaia.

    Embarkation day is nearly upon us. One more sleep on land tonight and we will likely be rocked to sleep at sea tomorrow night.Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Still raining when we wake up ... but no snow — Ushuaia, Argentina.
    The major snow event stayed in the mountains to frost the peaks — Ushuaia, Argentina.Need a fridge? — Ushuaia, Argentina.Mosaic mural — Ushuaia, Argentina.Mui finds a king penguin of his own — Ushuaia, Argentina.Mural of an owl at the artisan village — Ushuaia, Argentina.Before and after at our once-favorite empanada place — Ushuaia, Argentina.We make up for our disappointment at El Turco with delicious ice cream — Ushuaia, Argentina.A monument to the ancients, the pioneers, and the settlers — Ushuaia, Argentina.A monument to the ancients, the pioneers, and the settlers — Ushuaia, Argentina.A monument to the ancients, the pioneers, and the settlers — Ushuaia, Argentina.A monument to the ancients, the pioneers, and the settlers — Ushuaia, Argentina.Time to head to the port to embark on our Antarctic expedition — Ushuaia, Argentina.

    Ushuaia: One Last Wander

    February 11 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 39 °F

    Rat-a-tat-tat! Throughout the night heavy rain pounded the picture window.

    What we didn’t know until we pulled open the drapes when we woke up was if that rain had changed to snow at some point. It had not. The ‘major snow event’ forecasted to bring 3” of the white stuff to Ushuaia had remained in the mountains.

    Checking out of the apartment at 10:00a, we Ubered to Club 1210 on Avenida Maipú … the designated luggage drop off. Embarkation of Ortelius was slated for 2:00p. We had planned for this … we would go for one last wander around the city and have empanadas for lunch.

    Coffee break at Tante Sara to get out of the soggy weather. Lunch … a tradition no more as El Turco, our favorite empanada place, now requires that you order a main course as well as empanadas … boo, hiss! To make up for that disappointment, a delicious sweet treat at Almendra … which very much lived up to its slogan … “the name of good ice cream.”

    And finally … time to embark Ortelius.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    The "hoped for" itinerary for our voyage.
    Still a lot of ice in the Weddell Sea ... but we have about 10 days before we get there 🤞🏻

    Remote Weddell Sea

    February 11 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 41 °F

    If the ice conditions allow it once we cross the Antarctic Circle, this is where we will be going!

    Red is not a good color for us!

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Ortelius looks so small in its berth between the other vessels — Ushuaia, Argentina.
    6Hello again Ortelius — Ushuaia, Argentina.The ship is named after a Dutch-Flemish cartographer; published the first modern world atlas.Deck plan for the 108-passenger Ortelius.Cabin 525 ... our home aboard Ortelius for the next 27 days.Getting ready to leave our berth — Ushuaia, Argentina.Bye bye Ushuaia, Argentina.Bye bye Ushuaia, Argentina.Bye bye Ushuaia, Argentina.Bye bye Ushuaia, Argentina.Shags resting on the water in the Beagle Channel.Photo-bombed by a black-browed albatross ... Shags in the Beagle Channel.Giant petrel ... one of the scavengers of these latitudes ... Beagle Channel.Oceanwide Expeditions is one of the seven founding members of IAATO.Avian flu is very much a challenge in the places we'll be visiting.What the Windy app is suggesting that we will be encountering as we head to South Georgia Island.

    And We Are Off!

    February 11 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    Embarked Ortelius … ✅

    Settled into our cabin … ✅

    Got reacquainted with the ship … ✅

    Completed the mandatory safety briefing and muster drill … ✅

    Enjoyed the sailaway from the open decks … ✅

    Stopped off in the Beagle Channel to pick up the helicopters and Chilean pilots that will be accompanying us on this journey … ✅

    Attended the daily briefing; met the expedition team; and learned that we should have a fairly smooth first day crossing to South Georgia Island tomorrow … with waves in the 2.5-3 m (8-10 ft range) … ✅

    Enjoyed our first meal aboard Ortelius … ✅

    Attended the mandatory IAATO and zodiac operations briefings … ✅

    Ready to be rocked to sleep … ✅

    Our adventure has begun!    Read more

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