• Alex und das Fernweh

Atlantic Duo: Lisbon & Madeira

Traveling to new places always thrills me, especially when reality beats my imagination. Can’t wait for Lisbon and Madeira! Read more
  • Trip start
    September 20, 2025

    Turbulence Before the Trip Even Began

    September 20 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The day already kicked off on a stressful note. Sure, I was excited about the trip, but there was still so much to get done. First the worry about whether my suitcase would make the weight limit.

    Of course, it was totally fine in the end, but you’re always a bit nervous about it, right?
    Then the roads were packed, and we kept getting stuck in heavy traffic.

    But the chaos didn’t stop there.
    At the airport’s “Kiss and Fly” zone—wow, I’ve never seen anything like that before. Nothing was moving, not forward, not backward. In the end, I literally jumped out of the car in the middle of the street, which of course annoyed all the other drivers and triggered a full-on honking concert. So, I grabbed my suitcase, quickly thanked (and apologized to) my brother, who was driving, and dashed into the airport.

    My stress level slowly started to drop… until boarding.
    It was an older Eurowings plane, super cramped. My knees were already pressing against the seat in front of me—and I’m short! Then the pilot, in really broken English with a Portuguese accent, kept saying we’d be leaving “very soon.” After 50 minutes of waiting, the announcement finally came: it would be another 45 minutes before we’d take off.

    Mood: officially tanked.
    But suddenly, after just 10 minutes, we were moving.
    What just happened? Did we all just misunderstand him?

    At that point, I didn’t care anymore—as long as we were in the air. The flight wasn’t exactly comfortable, though. Loud, cramped, and the plane rattled so much it made you a bit uneasy.

    But in the end, all the stress was worth it.
    First stop: Lisbon!
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  • Stress Out, Lights On

    September 20 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Finally made it to the hotel, freshened up a bit, and then hopped on the bus—called carris here—towards Praça do Rossio.

    One cocktail and a nice dinner later, we walked over to Praça do Comércio.

    We stumbled right into a drone light show and even got to enjoy the closing moments.

    A beautiful ending to a day that had started out so stressful.
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  • Lisbon in a Day: Steps, Sweets, Sunshine

    September 21 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    After a really restful night, we headed off into Lisbon’s old town and upper city. Let me just say: we walked, we marched, we strolled… did I mention we walked? A couple of pit stops later – a refreshing buttermilk sorbet here, and of course a warm, creamy Pastel de Nata straight from the bakery – and my step counter proudly flashed around 26,000 steps.

    What a day! And the best part? The weather was just perfect for a city trip.
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  • Pastéis, Promenades, and Panoramas

    September 22 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Today we made our way out to Belém to see the Torre de Belém and the Padrão dos Descobrimentos. Both were really impressive, and it never stops amazing me what people were able to build back then without any of the tools we have today.

    After that we crossed under the main road and ended up in the Jardim do Paço do Império, a beautiful park with a great view of the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos.

    Since we’d already tried pastéis de nata yesterday, we thought we’d visit the famous Pastéis de Belém bakery. The line for a café table was endless, though, so we decided to skip it and grabbed a box from the take-away counter instead. Sitting outside in the sun with them was lovely – but honestly, the ones we had yesterday tasted better.

    From there we walked along the Tagus promenade all the way to the LX Factory. Such a cool spot – old factory buildings turned into restaurants, bars, and little shops. I loved the vibe there. We stopped for some garlic bread and sangria, because, well, that’s exactly what you do on holiday.

    Later we took a bus over the Ponte 25 de Abril – which we keep calling Lisbon’s Golden Gate Bridge – and climbed up to the Cristo Rei Sanctuary. The monument is impressive, and the views are amazing, even without going up the elevator.

    The adventurous part came when we used a hiking app to get to the ferry terminal. Yes, it gave us a route, but it was steep, full of trash, with abandoned buildings covered in graffiti. Not the most comfortable walk, and I’ll admit I felt a bit nervous until we finally saw other people around. If I’d been on my own, I wouldn’t have done it.

    So I was very relieved when we got back into more lively streets. We rounded off the day with a nice dinner and a glass of wine on our hotel’s rooftop bar – the perfect ending to a long but wonderful day.
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  • From the Streets of Lisbon to Madeira

    September 23 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    On our last day in Lisbon, we went to see the city’s modern side – the old Expo ‘98 area. Super cool spot, full of art pieces scattered around. Some are really surprising… like this one cat statue. From the back I was convinced it was a human torso. Nope. Just a cat. Totally fooled me.

    After that, we wandered along the riverside promenade. Lots of greenery, a really chill place to walk and just enjoy the vibe.

    Since we still had some time left, we did another little march through Alfama. Honestly, that neighborhood never gets boring with its tiny streets and hidden corners.

    And now… time to say goodbye to Lisbon. Next stop: Madeira!
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  • Cliffs, Sun, and a Few Bruised Thumbs

    September 24 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We landed in Madeira at night, grabbed our rental car, and drove straight to the hotel. The next morning, we were off on our first adventure – anyone expecting a chill, relaxing trip clearly hadn’t met us. We were here to rack up the kilometers!

    Our first stop: Ponta de São Lourenço. Wow. The cliffs, the ocean, the wind-swept landscape – it’s like nothing else. Luckily, it was still cool in the morning, because by midday the sun really hits.

    You definitely need good shoes here. At least solid trekking shoes, ideally full-on hiking boots. The trail is supposed to be “easy to moderate,” but with all the uneven ground, endless ups and downs, and steps, I’d call it at least moderately challenging. Not for anyone with knee problems or limited mobility. My lungs were screaming, and I had to take several breaks, genuinely feeling like I couldn’t catch my breath.

    The last part of the trail? Totally optional. I tried going further, but after a steel cable slipped through my hand and ripped my thumb, I decided enough was enough. Even turning back was tricky. The rocks are slick, and there’s no real path.

    Still, I don’t regret stopping where I did – the views along the way were jaw-dropping. Coming back, the sun was blazing, making the trail even tougher. But on the bright side, little lizards came out of their hiding spots to bask on the warm rocks, which was a cute little reward for surviving the hike.
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  • Hiking the Caldeirão Verde Trail

    September 25 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Today’s excursion couldn’t have been more different from yesterday’s. From the barren cliffs, we stepped straight into a lush, green jungle. Our destination was Levada do Caldeirão Verde – and the name really says it all. Everywhere you look, it’s green: moss, ferns, trees… pure jungle vibes.

    The trail runs alongside the man-made water channels, the levadas. You can hear the water trickling and splashing all the time, and if you’re lucky, you might even spot a fish swimming in the crystal-clear streams. Walking here is incredibly relaxing, especially if you get stretches of the path mostly to yourself.

    The part that really got my heart racing? The four tunnels along the way. Seriously, without a flashlight or phone light, it’s pitch black. Total darkness. Some parts are slippery, a bit flooded, and the ceilings aren’t always tall enough to walk upright – and I’m not very tall!

    The ultimate goal, the green basin, was impressive. The waterfall didn’t have much water, so it was more of a backdrop, but looking up from the bottom was amazing – all green around you and then the blue sky above. The name “Green Cauldron” really fits.

    On the way back, we started to encounter more hikers. The paths aren’t always wide enough to pass easily, so you have to get creative: step aside, squeeze past, or even back up a bit. Luckily, everyone’s super considerate, so it works out.

    One thing that worried me beforehand was the road to the parking lot. It’s a narrow, winding street with huge potholes, and you can’t always see around corners. Early in the morning, it’s manageable, but coming back down is trickier. Cars coming the other way don’t always have a spot to pass, so you might end up reversing on a curve.

    Honestly, a small, powerful car is perfect for this route. Anything bigger just makes maneuvering and passing other vehicles way more stressful.

    At the end of our trip, we swung by Santander to check out the famous Casas de Colmo, or Palheiras. These are traditional farmhouses that are now part of the cultural heritage. Honestly, they’re just really cool to see – bright, colorful, and totally charming.
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  • Gardens, Sleds & More

    September 26 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today we finally took it easy. Slept in, had a late breakfast, and then hopped on the bus straight into Funchal – the stop is right outside the hotel, super convenient.
    We took the cable car over the city, which was such a cool ride, and at the top we wandered through the tropical garden. It was beautiful up there. In the morning it was cloudy and cold, almost like walking through a jungle. The 15 euros entrance fee isn’t exactly cheap, but I’d say it was worth it.

    Going back down, we tried the wicker sleds. My friend really wanted to, so I went along. It was fun, but honestly? 35 euros plus a tip for the two guys pushing us felt like a lot. And of course, in proper tourist fashion, we also bought the photos – two of them – for another 10 euros. In the end we spent 48.50, which felt a bit too much. Especially since we still had to walk down a long, steep street afterwards. I think I would’ve preferred the round-trip cable car for 20 euros and just ended up back at the harbor.

    Later we wandered around the old town, peeked into the cathedral, stopped at the Ritz for a cocktail and some garlic bread, and checked out the big Madeira sign by the harbor – loved it.
    Our last stop was the Mercado dos Lavradores. Unfortunately, we were too late for the fish market, which I really would’ve liked to see.
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  • From Wildfire Scars to Vacation Vibes

    September 27 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Today started super early again. We drove to Santana and then headed out to hike the Vereda do Pico Ruivo.
    So. Many. Stairs. My legs are getting heavier with every day and I was out of breath pretty quickly – but wow, the views were absolutely worth it.

    You can still see the damage from the 2024 wildfires. Some trails are still closed off, and in other spots you can see the blackened remains of the bushes. But nature is already starting to take those dead patches back, which is pretty amazing to watch.

    We wrapped up the day chilling by the pool at our massive hotel complex. That felt sooo good. For the first time, today really felt like vacation.
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  • From Skywalk Fears to Honey Cake Cheers

    September 28 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We finally set off for our last holiday destination, driving from Funchal to Porto Moniz along the absolutely breathtaking coastline. Our first stop was the Cabo Girão Skywalk. I’m not a fan of heights, but honestly, it wasn’t too bad—it was actually kind of nice.

    Next, we headed to Porto Moniz, a really charming little town that’s way too underrated. Most tourists only come here to see the Anjos waterfall. It’s in a closed-off area, and people are warned not to go because of landslides and falling rocks. Personally, I don’t think it’s worth breaking any rules just for a photo—especially since we’re visitors. Much better to just enjoy the town and sit by the sea.

    From there we drove on to Arco da Calheta and stumbled upon a small craft and farmers’ market right by the ocean. They had everything from earrings and soaps to dried fruit. And of course, we grabbed some Bolo do Caco, a garlicky flatbread—delicious! One is more than enough for two, way too heavy for just me.

    Right next to the market we checked out a sugarcane factory. Admission was free, so we had a quick look around. In the tasting room we picked up some aguardente de cana—perfect for making or mixing Poncha—and the famous Bolo de Mel de Cana, a honey cake with chocolate and almonds.

    After that, we finally made our way to the Farol do Porto Moniz lighthouse. What a beautiful spot! The wind was starting to pick up, making the whole place feel a bit wilder, but it was perfect for a few photos.

    Then we drove to one of Europe’s priciest cable cars, the Teleférico das Achadas da Cruz. It has a crazy 89% gradient! Honestly, I was relieved it was closed for maintenance until the end of September—otherwise we would have had to go down and back up. Talk about luck!

    While we were parked, we decided to clean our rental car. Fun fact: it was handed over to us without any windshield washer fluid. So there I was, standing in the doorway, pouring plain water on the windshield, while my friend sat inside trying to switch on the wipers. And of course, the car automatically wiped it all… super strong, because I had poured quite a lot of water. I, the passenger door, and some poor guy on the other side all got soaked. The man just stepped aside, and I jumped in as fast as possible. Oh my gosh, so embarrassing—two blondes in a car!

    Finally, we drove on from the Teleférico towards Porto Moniz, stopped at a lovely viewpoint up on the road to look down over the town, and then, at last, arrived at our hotel in Porto Moniz to call it a day.
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  • One Brave Swim in Madeira’s Natural Pool

    September 29 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Yesterday was actually the first time it wasn’t sunny when we woke up. A thick layer of clouds was stuck over Madeira. We thought about driving somewhere else, but the weather looked the same everywhere.
    So we went to check out Porto Moniz. We watched the massive Atlantic waves crashing in and enjoyed a tasty meal with sangria.
    When the weather cleared up a bit, we decided to give the natural swimming pool a try.

    It definitely took some courage — there were little fish swimming around, seaweed here and there, and once you looked down past a certain depth, it was just pitch black.

    Not exactly my thing.
    But alright, I went in anyway. The water was freezing, and just when I thought I was getting used to it, a wave came over the edge, crashed right over me, and that was enough for me.
    Since I’m not really a water person, one dip was more than enough.
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  • Clouds & Stairs

    September 30 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    On our second-to-last day, we went on one more beautiful hike.
    Nice and early, we set off for the 25 Springs trail (Lagoa das 25 Fontes).

    Getting there already felt like an adventure: a thick cloud was hanging over the mountains, visibility was close to zero, and then a warning sign popped up about cows. We didn’t see any on the road itself, but some were standing right by the roadside. Lucky for me — my heart was already pounding, and the last thing I wanted was to crash into a cow.

    At the start of the hike, we were greeted by endless stairs after a long stretch of asphalt. Pretty exhausting — but the destination made up for it. The lake at the 25 Springs was absolutely gorgeous. Luckily, it wasn’t too crowded. Some brave souls even went for a swim, but with only about 14°C outside, I was perfectly fine just dipping my fingers in the water.

    Since we were already there, we carried on to Levada do Risco. That waterfall was incredible — a huge wall with water streaming down everywhere. And because it wasn’t packed with people, it felt even more magical.

    After that, we drove over to Fanal Forest. Such a stunning spot. Standing between those ancient laurel trees, you suddenly feel really small. Then a rain cloud rolled in, and the forest turned misty and mystical — the atmosphere was just amazing. Of course, we ended up wet and the already muddy ground got even muddier. But still, so worth it.

    We wrapped up the day back in Porto Moniz, with a glass of sangria on the promenade.
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  • What a way to end the trip

    October 1 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    So, today was our last day in Madeira and we really tried to make the most of it.
    It was supposed to be pretty cloudy up in Porto Moniz, so we thought, “let’s just head to Funchal instead.” Best decision ever — when we left the hotel it was actually raining, and not just a couple of harmless drops either.

    Funchal, on the other hand, greeted us with sunshine.
    We wandered through the botanical garden for a while and then, pretty spontaneously, signed up for a whale-watching tour in the afternoon.
    In the end we only saw a group of dolphins, but the ride along the coast was beautiful anyway. The dolphins were insanely fast though — almost impossible to catch with the camera. Humpbacks would’ve been way easier to photograph.

    I have to admit, I’m a bit spoiled from whale-watching tours in the U.S., so maybe I expected too much.
    We rounded off the day with a really good dinner in Funchal, and now we’re back at the hotel, packing our stuff. Tomorrow we’ve got to get up early
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  • A Long Day, But Home Sweet Home

    October 2 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Today was departure day. Super early in the morning we left Porto Moniz and drove back to Funchal Airport to return the rental car. Then it was time for the baggage drop-off, security check, and almost right away our boarding was announced. Everything felt a bit rushed.

    We took off in rainy weather, but before disappearing into the clouds we got one last look at beautiful Madeira and the nearby island of Porto Santo. And once we were above the clouds, the sun was shining—which made leaving just a little bit easier.

    Finally, at 3:33 PM local time, we landed in Düsseldorf. What a long day! Luckily, my brother is always kind enough to drive me to the airport and pick me up again—so we got a ride home. Well, “ride” isn’t really the right word… with rush hour traffic it took us nearly two hours to get back. Still, nothing beats sleeping in your own bed again after a trip.

    The holiday itself was amazing. Such a beautiful island. And Lisbon? Definitely not the last time I’ve been there. Already excited for the next adventures!
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    Trip end
    October 2, 2025