Ethiopia

From the World Heritage sites of the Rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, the Royal Enclosure of Gondar, and the Simien Mountains National Park, Lake Tana, source of the Nile, to the Indigenous Tribes of the Omo Valley. Read more

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Trip start
July 29, 2025
Ethiopia Traveler
Addis Ababa
July 29, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Arriving early morning to a cool and overcast Addis Ababa after an overnight flight from Istanbul, we dropped the bags at the hotel and, after breakfast, started our Ethiopian journey with a city tour.
Ethiopia is one of only two countries in Africa never to have been colonised. A fascinating land unlike anywhere else on the continent, with a wealth of unique cultures, ethnic and natural diversity, and some of Africa's finest historic monuments.
Our itinerary planned to encompass both the north and the south, from Addis, up to the north of the country, known for its striking monuments that date back centuries and indigenous culture that sets it apart from its neighbours. To the south and the tribal lands of the Omo Valley.
From the monasteries of Lake Tana and the start of the Blue Nile, the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, local markets, and different ethnic groups, a busy tour around this interesting country.
Starting in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia's capital, a relatively new city, founded by the Emperor Menelik II in 1887, and lying at an altitude of 2,400m, which makes it Africa's highest capital city. The name means 'new flower' in Amharic. Our first stop was the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, which gives an insight into Ethiopia's particular brand of Christianity. Built by Emperor Menelik to commemorate his victory over Italian forces at Adwa, it houses a small museum with a collection of important religious paintings, books, and artefacts. Here I tried a large drum, saw the tomb of Emperor Haile Selassie, and we also met the monk.
Then onto the National Museum of Ethiopia. One of the particular highlights of the museum is the partial skeleton of Australopithecus afarensis, better known as Lucy.
Internationally renowned, Lucy, also called Dinknesh in Ethiopia ("You are Wonderful"), was discovered in 1974. Lucy stood about 105 cm tall, short even for her species. She was a young adult when she died: her wisdom teeth were in place but not worn. Lucy was probably at ease on the ground but may have been more prone to tree climbing than modern humans. As shown by her long mandible, her face was projecting forward, as in apes, unlike modern humans.
The remains date back some 3.18 million years, when her body was slowly covered by muddy waters, preserving her bones from destruction until scientists discovered them in 1974.
A short drive up to Entoto Hills for an overview of the city. En route, a stop at the Sheromeda traditional clothes market, followed by lunch at Ethiopia's oldest hotel, “Taitu”.
A drive past the Mercato, one of Africa's largest outdoor markets, before returning to the hotel for a well-deserved rest before dinner after a long day.Read more
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Bahir Dar
July 30, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
An early departure to take the 8.30 am flight up to Bahir Dar, the capital of the Amhara region in northern Ethiopia. It is a port on the southern shore of Lake Tana.
After dropping out bags at the Blue Nile Resort Hotel overlooking the lake, we boarded a small boat for a cruising tour. We spotted some hippos, a few pelicans, and an African fish eagle.
Also, some of the traditional reed boats and local fishermen, located around the shore of the lake and up to where the Blue Nile leaves the southern end of the lake.
Then, a fascinating guided tour of Narga Selassie, one of the medieval monasteries known for its elaborate, colorful murals. Being the only two tourists and accompanied by a knowledgeable guide explaining the history and details, this was a good experience.
Reboarding the boat to visit the Ura Kidane Mihret monastery on the Zege Peninsula. More restored but still quite interesting.Read more
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Bahirdar market and city tour
July 30, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
Returning to the mainland in the afternoon for a late lunch, after which we had a brief city tour and a walk around the Bahirdar Market, quite pungent and dirty, but interesting to see locals buying everything from coffee beans to dresses.
Then back to the hotel just before the rains arrived.Read more
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Drive to Gondar and Ethiopian highlands
July 31, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
After a good rest overnight, we set off from Bahir Daron on the 175 km drive to Gondar.
Unfortunately, Chelo wasn't feeling particularly good this morning, so she needed to rest, which was a shame because we passed some wonderful countryside.
It was a nice, bright, dry morning. Our route took us out of the city, passing many locals walking along the roadside. Cows and goats share the road with all forms of transport. Some of the road was good, but also many potholes and bad conditions. We passed some checkpoints but didn't experience any problems.
After a couple of hours, we began to see distant mountains with views across rice fields, all very green and lush. Plus some maize crops, which were being sold along the road as we passed small villages and very rural communities.
We crossed quite a few rivers along the way, then at the town of Addis Zemen, we turned up into the highlands, with stunning scenery and wonderful vistas from the mountain road.
By late morning, we arrived at Gondar and checked into the Goha Hotel with great views over the city and surrounding countryside.Read more
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Gondar City Tour
July 31, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
After arriving in Gondar, Chelo decided to rest at the hotel. So the local guild and I went for lunch in a family restaurant before setting off on a city tour.
First stop was the Church of Debre Birhan Selassie, which is famous for its religious wall paintings and iconic ceiling depicting the faces of angels.
Then we visited the Royal Enclosure, which was undergoing considerable restoration. Here, the guide and I shared a typical coffee while he explained a little of the history of the five castles. These were built by a succession of Ethiopian Kings, beginning in the early 17th century. Although badly damaged by air raids back in WW2, the enclosure is now listed as a UNESCO Heritage site.
Then we walked down through the city centre and onto the bathhouse of King Fasilides, which serves as a baptismal pool during the Epiphany celebrations every January.
This large bathing pool is filled from a local river, with the royal house standing at its center and surrounded by a wall with some amazing trees overgrowing the structure.
An interesting visit to this fascinating old city.Read more
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Simien Mountains and Wunania village
August 1, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
This morning we drove out of Gondar and traveled for around 45 minutes up towards the Simien Mountains to visit the Wunania village community.
From here, accompanied by a couple of armed guilds, we hiked some way along a rocky and muddy track.
Chelo needed to turn back as she wasn't completely recovered from yesterday; nevertheless, we were able to appreciate the spectacular views.
Plenty of cows, goats, and sheep, herded by young boys, some practicing their skills with the whip.
From the cloud, and just missing the rain showers, we headed back to the small house of a woman from the village. Here she demonstrated bread making and preparing the coffee from the roasted beans. Plus some good fresh popcorn and the company of some chickens, cats, and children.Read more
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Addis Ababa Ethnological Museum
August 2, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
From Gondar, we were not able to get a flight to our next destination of Lalibela, and for safety and security, a 7-hour drive across the country didn't make good sense. So we took a morning flight back to Addis Ababa.
Here in went to the Ethnological Museum, situated inside the Addis Ababa University, in the former palace of Hailie Selassie.
It conveys the history of the country and displays artifacts, crafts & religious icons tracing Ethiopian culture, and the decolonization across the continent.
After a good lunch, we relaxed back in the hotel before catching our flight back north to Lalibela after this detour and stopover.Read more
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Addis to Lalibela
August 3, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
This morning we took a flight 700 km north of Addis Ababa to Lalibela.
Lalibela is a town in the Amhara region of northern Ethiopia. It's known for its distinctive rock-cut churches dating from the 12th and 13th centuries, which are pilgrimage sites for Coptic Christians. Carved out of rock, the subterranean monoliths include huge Bete Medhane Alem and the cross-shaped Bete Giyorgis. Many are joined by tunnels and trenches, and some have carved bas-reliefs and colored frescoes inside.
On arrival, we checked in at the Mezena Resort Hotel and had lunch in a local family restaurant in this wonderful location.Read more
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Tour of the Churches of Lalibela
August 3, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
After lunch, we began our tour, visiting 6 of the magnificent rock-hewn churches at this UNESCO World Heritage site.
Carved directly into the stone mountainside at least 800 years ago, this complex boasts the largest monolithic church in the world, a maze of passageways and tunnels, intricate reliefs, and fabulous examples of icon paintings.
Remarkable and impressive.Read more
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Lalibela's Churches
August 4, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
This morning, we continued with our tour of Lalibela's churches.
I was fortunate to have an opportunity to witness a group of priests during a chanting ceremony within one of the small cave churches. A very spiritual and interesting experience.
Also, we went down into the representation of Bethlehem, then passed through a long dark tunnel representing hell before climbing up out into the paradise.
It was also interesting to learn that, according to the memory preserved by the scholars of Lalibela and referenced during the archaeological excavations, King St. Lalibela purchased the land from a woman to create what he had seen in a divine revelation, churches carved into the rock.Read more
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St Na’akuto La‘ab Monastery
August 4, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
After lunch, we went for a short drive into the local countryside to visit the St Na’akuto La‘ab Monastery, which is inside a natural cavern in the highlands surrounding the town.
From the ceiling of the cave, water drips into collecting stones and is considered holy with healing powers.
The priest proudly showed the religious book and ceremonial crosses.Read more
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Addis Ababa to Lake Langano
August 5, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
This morning, we took a flight back to Addis Ababa, met our guide and driver, and headed south into the Rift Valley to Lake Langano.
Very fertile lands with tomato, corn, and other vegetables, some seasonal lakes, and many rivers.
Most of the first couple of hours were on the toll road, then we turned off at the town of Baga for a lunch stop.
This place has many very large greenhouses for growing flowers for export. Also, a modest winery and processing facilities for fruit and vegetables.
Towards the end of the afternoon, we arrived at Sabana Lodge, our stop for the night.
This is one of the lodges along Lake Langano. Our room overlooked the lake, and outside was the sound of small yellow birds in the trees and bushes.
I wandered down to the lakeside beach, which was very quiet at this time, but I expect it to get busy in the high season.Read more
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Lake Langano - Arba Minch
August 6, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
Today was a long drive to Arba Minch, passing the Rift Valley lakes of Awasa and Abaya. Our first stop was at the Abijata-Shalla Lakes National Park, where we had a short nature walk. We saw a few ostrich and walthog, and several gazelle.
Then a long day on the road driving to Arba Minch, about 320 Km.
We passed through the city of Shashamane, which has a large Rastafarian community. Then the centre of the coffee growing region, plus much corn and bananas. Many small wagons are pulled by donkeys and driven by small boys.
The road climbed up from the Rift Valley, a drier land and great views. Our lunch stop was in the city of Sodo Zuria, before continuing the drive to Arba Minch ("Forty Springs"), located in the Southern Nations, and Peoples Region.
A two-night stay at the 4-star Haile Resort Arba Minch overlooking the lakes of Abaya and Chamo, surrounded by a stunning chain of beautiful green mountains.Read more
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Lake Chamo Arba Minch
August 7, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
This morning we took a boat trip on Lake Chamo and viewed some of the largest crocodiles in the world sunning on the banks of one of the small islands in the lake, and also many aquatic birds. It was a bit choppy because of the wind blowing on the lake, and the boat was quite small, but it felt safe.Read more
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Dorze Village in the Guge Mountains
August 7, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
Following lunch, we had a visit to a Dorze Village in the Guge Mountains.
The Dorze people belong to one of the Omotic groups in the South West of Ethiopia. They are a hard-working tribe renowned for their skill in weaving, bamboo carpentry, and other traditional crafts.
Although some have migrated to Addis and Arba Minch, most live high in the Guge Mountains in the nine Dorze villages, of which we visited just one. They inhabit a small highland area thought to have been occupied for 500 years. They are best known for their cotton weaving and tall beehive-shaped dwellings, which are some of the most distinctive in Africa. Every Dorze compound is self-sufficient, surrounded by a small holding of crops, and inside each compound is their remarkable domed dwellings made from false banana leaves. These can measure up to 6 metres high, ensuring they last lifetimes despite termites constantly eating away at the base. As they do so, their houses shrink in height yet stay inhabitable for many years. Strong and sturdy, yet easily transported, they are an ingenious use for the false banana tree.
This was an interesting insight, and we also enjoyed some bread from the banana tree and a local drink in one of the meeting houses, dressed accordingly.Read more
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Arba Minch to Jinka
August 8, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
An early start for our drive to Jinka, a market town in southern Ethiopia, located in the hills north of the Tama Plains. Although only around 240 km, the roads we bumpy and we had to ascend over some highland villages, then down and across the Rift Valley plain before winding up again and onto Jinka, which took about 5 hours.
We passed through a town where there seemed to be a celebration going on, which was interesting.
Also, I took a picture of a tree that had bee hives hanging from the branches.
A brief lunch stop, then onto Jinka.
Jinka is an important center for at least sixteen indigenous ethnic groups as well as others from the rest of the country. This region is inhabited by various peoples such as the Konso, Tseme, Benna, and Ari.Read more
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Jinka and visit to the Aari village
August 8, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
On arrival in Jinka, our first stop was the Omo Valley Museum, before driving out of town to visit a nearby village of the Aari people.
The Aari are the largest ethnic group in the South Omo Valley, and currently, there are more than 330,000 Aari people.
Many Aari believe they are not a migrant ethnic group, but rather that they are the original people of the Aari land. Some among the 62 different clans believe they originated from other neighbouring ethnic groups. Others believe that their ancestors came directly from the earth, water, and sun. The name Aari has its origins in a word meaning 'giving birth,' and now refers to both the people and the place where they live.
Here, our visit began by watching a lady preparing a sort of flat bread from corn, while some girls plaited Chelos' hair.
Then we went to see a woman making clay bowls and the local blacksmith. A relaxed community, Chelo handed out some sweets, and we enjoyed an informative walk through the countryside before returning to the town.Read more
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Omo Valley - Mago National Park
August 9, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
A morning drive to the Mago National Park in the South Omo Valley.
The South Omo Valley is one of the most ethnically diverse parts of Africa. It is a land of warriors, hunters, and nomads whose distinct age-old lifestyles are being changed by the outside world. Still, they are people whose daily existence and ways of life are ruled by traditions.
Among the 86 ethnic groups of Ethiopia, 16 of them can be found in the South Omo Valley, an area that is known for its various indigenous groups. Most of the people are pastoral community living in the valley, the main livelihood depends on cattle rearing, combined with growing maize and sorghum for daily consumption, and some also do beekeeping.
Our tour began with a visit to the Mursi people. The Mursi women are known for the clay plates they insert into their lower lips.
We had a few pictures with the tribe and with some of the women.Read more
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Jinka to Turmi and a tribal market
August 9, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C
We continued towards Turmi on a bumpy but straight road. An interesting stop to wander around a large market selling everything from vegetables to cows and goats.
This area is home to the Hamer People and is a meeting point for the various tribes, such as the Ari, and the Benna. The Banna are known for decorating their bodies with clay, and the young men seemed quite muscular. The Hamer are a bit taller and are known for their body decorations, and the women for colouring their hair with ochre decorations. Very interesting, particularly walking around the animal market.
We also saw some camels beside the road on the drive to Turmi, which was a bit of a surprise.Read more
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Turmi to Omorate
August 10, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
After breakfast, we drove west for around 35 km towards the border with Kenya and the town of Omorate. Here we had to check our passports because of the proximity to Kenya, then boarded a traditional canoe to cross the Omo River.
There are some large plantations of bananas here, owned by an Italian business.
We also saw groups that catch and dry fish in large quantities, which are then transported across the border.
Once on the other side, we headed on foot to a small village of the Dassanech tribe.Read more
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Dassanech Tribal Village Visit
August 10, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C
With the local guild, we entered a village of around 500 people of the Dassanech.
They are another Omo ethnic group, a semi-nomadic people who are one of the more numerous tribes (population about 70,000) in the Omo Region. A highly egalitarian society, involving age sets and clan lineages. The Dassanech are primarily "agro-pastoralists" and cultivate sorghum, maize, and beans, and raise livestock such as cattle and sheep. To supplement their crops and livestock, Dassanech men will also fish and hunt crocodiles at night.
Here we met with many of the villagers, entered one of the small, domeshaped homes where a grandmother was looking after a couple of little children.
Learned a bit about the culture and rituals, and spent around an hour just seeing the community. Quite a unique experience.
Then we drove back to Turmi, crossing the river on the road bridge this time.Read more
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Hamar Tribal Village of Gurdo
August 10, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C
In the late afternoon, we drove through the market town of Turmi to the village of Gurdo for a visit to the Hamar Tribe.
The Hamar tribe is an indigenous group residing in the Omo Valley of south-western Ethiopia. They are known for their semi-nomadic lifestyle, rich cultural traditions, and unique rituals, including the Ukuli Bula cattle-leaping ceremony. The tribe's population is estimated at around 50,000, and they are primarily pastoralists, with cattle playing a central role in their lives and customs.
We saw a group building a new traditional round house, consuming much alcohol, and having discussions.
Then we went into one of the village houses, where Chelo again got her hair done up.
Then a walk around and met some of the girls and women to admire their way of dressing.
Another fascinating opportunity to see a tribal way of life.Read more
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Turmi to Konso
August 11, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
Today we drove around 200 km to Konso, designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site. A highland people, the Konso are known for the ancient and intricate terraces that encircle their well-planned villages. Each Konso village begins on a hilltop. As the population grows, a new "ring" of homes is built around the hilltop. When the final "ring" reaches near the bottom of the hill, a new village on a different hill must be built.
Villages have a "generation pole," and every 18 years, a new pole is added to the others, making it easy to calculate the age of the village.
We had a walk around the big market where you can buy almost everything from sugar cane and dresses, to salt and drinks.
After lunch at Kanta Lodge, we went for a visit to one of the local villages. This was interesting and quite a contrast to the villages we had visited the last couple of days.Read more
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Konso to Hawassa
August 12, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
A long drive today covering around 340 km from Konso to Hawassa, retracing our route via Arba Minch, where our driver had some considerable difficulty obtaining fuel, but finally managed to arrange the petrol after a little negotiating.
Most of the road was quite straight, with many cows and goats to be avoided, a short break to stretch our legs, and take a couple of photos at a muddy waterfall.
A lunch stop at Soddo, then we continued to Hawassa, passing markets and lush green countryside with wonderful views.
Hawassa is one of the more advanced and developed cities of Ethiopia, located 275 km south of Addis Ababa.
St. Gabriel Church, located in the city center, is a hugely popular pilgrimage destination for Ethiopian Orthodox Christians who travel to Hawassa in the months of January and July to celebrate the annual commemoration.
Here we stayed at the Haile Lakeside Resort. Lake Hawassa is one of the major lakes in the East African Rift Valley, which runs through Ethiopia. It's one of the smallest of the Rift Valley lakes, 16 km long and 9 km wide, with a surface area of 129 square kilometers. A lovely resort hotel where we relaxed on our last night of the tour.Read more
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Hawassa to Addis Ababa
August 13, 2025 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
The last day of our tour and a 280 km drive to Addis Ababa.
After breakfast, a short drive to the fish market, where some women were boiling up fish stew, and we saw the local fisherman mending nets, as well as the bird life along the lake shore.
In Ziway by Lake Ziway, we stopped for an early lunch, after which we went to the lakeside. Here is a nice open park, some large pelican birds feeding on scraps of fish, and a pleasant walkway with young people swimming in the water. The guide stopped under a tree where two girls were frying fish, so sat at a table, tried some fish, but shared most with the pellacons. Then onto the toll expressway, passing Lake Koka, and continued onto Addis.
In Addi, we reflected on our journey. We were treated by Waza Tours in the company of Ahadu, our guide, and Mulu, the driver, to a traditional Ethiopian dinner in the Yod Abysinnia Restaurant.
Unfortunately, we had to leave early for the Ethiopian Airlines flight, so we could only experience a little bit of the entertainment from the musicians representing some of the country's many ethnic groups. However, we had a brief flavour of the show, although in truth the local food was not to our liking.
At the airport, we went through a bit of stress as our return flight was overbooked and we were put on standby.
After some difficulty, we finally obtained a seat allocation for the Istanbul leg of the return. It was a stressful few hours, but this was yet another significantly memorable trip. Especially the guide and driver to the south on the cultural diversity in the tribal areas.Read more
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Trip end
August 13, 2025