Guyana Suriname French Guiana

Situated on the northern portion of the Amazon Rainforest are the Guianas: Guyana, Suriname, and French Guiana. Three countries that share a similar history, natural beauty, wildlife, and hospitality, yet are still uniquely their own. Read more

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Trip start
October 18, 2025
Guyana Suriname French Guiana Traveler
Amsterdam via Sint Maarten to Georgetown
October 18, 2025 in Sint Maarten ⋅ 🌙 29 °C
An early morning flight with KLM from Amsterdam with a stop at Princess Juliana Airport on Sint Maarten, which is part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands, a country on the southern part of a Caribbean island shared with Saint Martin, a French overseas territory. The capital, Philipsburg, features cobblestone streets & colonial-style buildings and is a popular cruise ship stop. Then, after a few hours, we continued to Cheddi Jagan Airport in Georgetown, Guyana.

I checked into the historic and old-world charm of the Cara Lodge Hotel in Georgetown.
Cara Lodge was built in the 1840s and has a long history. It was once the home of the first Lord Mayor of Georgetown. Over the years, the property has been visited by many dignitaries, including King Edward VIII in 1923. Other dignitaries have included President Jimmy Carter, HRH King Charles III, and Mick Jagger. This wooden colonial home, converted into a hotel, offered a combination of tradition and nostalgia.Read more
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Morning walk around Georgetown
October 19, 2025 in Guyana ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C
Due to the time difference after yesterday's long flight, I woke up early and decided to go for a local walk to explore the streets near my hotel.
Georgetown is Guyana’s largest city and has a distinctly Caribbean feel, interspersed with its colonial British, French, and Dutch heritage. The city was founded in the 18th century, but did not become the capital until it was captured by the French in 1782, only to fall into British hands thirty years later. It owes its existence to the fertility of its soil – early settlers found this to be an ideal region for establishing plantations, and reclaimed what had been floodplains through the building of dykes and canals.
Georgetown’s streets are laid out in a grid pattern and contain many interesting historic buildings dating back to the 19th century, as well as some colourful markets.
Although there is the typical rubbish and some old properties in disrepair, it had a relaxed feel.Read more
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Flight to the Kaieteur Falls
October 19, 2025 in Guyana ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C
This morning we took a flight over the Demerara and Essequibo Rivers and hundreds of miles of unbroken tropical rainforest to land at Kaieteur Falls, the world’s highest free-falling waterfall at a height of 226 meters
Kaieteur supports a unique micro environment, with plants such as the Tank Bromeliad plant, which catches rainwater and can support a tiny golden frog. Also, a bright red bird called the cock-of-the-rock.
But the main attraction is the Kaieteur Falls, a spectacular site, five times higher than Niagara Falls, and one of the most powerful waterfalls in the world. First seen by Europeans in 1870, although it was known to indigenous people before this. There are no other falls in the world with the magnitude of the sheer drop existing at Kaieteur. Legend of the Patamona tribe has it that Kai, one of the tribe’s chiefs (after whom the falls are named), committed self-sacrifice by canoeing himself over the falls. It was believed this would encourage the Great Spirit Makonaima to save the tribe from being destroyed by the savage Caribishi.
Here, we were guided along some trails to admire the magnificent force of nature from various vantage points. Then, towards sunset returned to Georgetown.Read more
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Georgetown to Iwokrama - Atta Rainforest
October 20, 2025 in Guyana ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
This morning we returned to Eugene F. Correia Airport for a flight over Guyana’s rainforest to the Fair View Airstrip, via Tumatumari, a gold mining and diamond area. Then a transfer to Iwokrama, a region of pristine rainforest with a breathtaking diversity of species.
Iwokrama Forest covers nearly a million acres and is home to an array of different species. Its name means ‘place of refuge’ in the language of the Makushi Amerindians, who retreated here to avoid the slave trade.
Iwokrama was established as a centre for the study of the rainforest and has been set aside to promote sustainable tourism within the region. Wildlife here includes jaguars, caiman, Howler and Spider monkeys, rodents such as Pacas and Agoutis, and Peccaries, among numerous other species.
The birdlife includes Toucans, Macaws, Hummingbirds, and the Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock.
The forest is in the homeland of the Makushi people, who have lived here and used the forest for thousands of years.
The road from the airstrip is the only north-to-south access in Guyana and links the country to Brazil, although the route sees very little traffic.Read more
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Atta Lodge canopy Walk
October 20, 2025 in Guyana ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C
After a good lunch and a short rest, we headed out with our guide in the late afternoon for a trek to the Canopy Walkway, 30 metres above the ground, for a different perspective of the forest, and an opportunity to explore the clearing around Atta Lodge.
Then, after sundown, a night walk. Unfortunately, we didn't get to see much, but the sounds and just looking around the forest were interesting.Read more
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Atta Rainforest Lodge – Iwokrama Forest
October 21, 2025 in Guyana ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C
Up early this morning, a coffee at 5.45 am, then we set out on a morning of wildlife spotting in the Iwokrama Forest, with the local guide explaining about the environment, birdlife, and animals.
Then, after breakfast, we went out again to trek a different path before lunch. Heard quite a few different bird calls, but again, didn't see anything especially interesting, but did get a picture of a Howler Monkey and a Yellow-throated Toucan, an Amazonian pygmy owl, and a Green-tailed jacamar Bird
A rest after lunch, to the sounds of gentle rain and bird calls, then later in the afternoon and evening, we went for a night drive looking for some of the elusive wildlife that comes out at that time. We did see a few birds, but nothing in particular. Fortunately, the rain held off.
Back at the lodge, a BBQ dinner.Read more
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Rock View Lodge
October 22, 2025 in Guyana ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C
Another early start before breakfast, heading out from the lodge for a forest walk.
Then we departed Atta Rainforest Lodge and drove to Rock View Lodge, with a short stop at Corkwood, a small trail, with the guide pointing out some of the plants that are used for medicines and other uses. Also, we managed to track down a Cock of the Rock bird in the dense undergrowth.
Rock View Lodge is located where the savannah meets the forest-covered foothills of the Pakaraima Mountains. With its tropical gardens and flowering trees, the lodge resembles an oasis in the savannah and attracts many species of birds, particularly nectar feeders, frugivores, and flycatchers.
At Rock View Lodge in the afternoon, we watched the traditional roasting of cashew nuts and some typical local crafts.
Rock View Lodge is linked to the local environment and surroundings, situated in the North Rupununi Savannahs, heartland of the Mukushi people, and is one of the two savannah nations of the nine major Amerindian people of Guyana. The others are the coastland Waraus and Caribs, the Patamonas and Akawaios across the Pakaraima Mountains, and the Wai Wais in the south of Guyana. The Mukushi are to the north of the Kanuku mountain range and the Wapishana to the south. The Makushi and the Wapishana are dependent on the forest for their farming and, as such, have two homes, the main one being on the savannah with a further farm home in the forest.
As with all Amerindian people, the Makushi used to travel and barter their product in exchange for other essential items such as pottery, basket work, and other items, which each Amerindian nation specialized in. They became excellent farmers, their staple being based on cassava and its many by-products. The farming is of a shifting cultivation type, which is ideally suited to the relatively poor soils. A farm may last initially for three years, is left for a period of five years for the secondary growth to be felled again, and farmed for a further two years. The land would then be allowed to rest and return to primary forest after 40 years. An interesting opportunity to gain some understanding of the region and its people.
We rounded off the evening with some pre-dinner rum in the bar.Read more
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Lethem to Georgetown
October 23, 2025 in Guyana ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C
After breakfast at Rock View Lodge, we departed for the frontier town of Lethem on the Brazilian border, two and a half hours on a bumpy road, for the flight back to Georgetown. Views across the savannah to distant mountains.
At the airport in Lethem, I bumped into Gilles and Marie Concordel from Switzerland, a couple that I met earlier this year in West Africa. Amazing coincidence.Read more
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Georgetown River Cruise
October 23, 2025 in Guyana ⋅ 🌙 28 °C
Back in Georgetown, we headed to the market and boarded a small boat for a sunset cruise along the Demerara River. Passing along the riverbank, viewing some of the old boats and local communities. Under the old pontoon bridge and up to the new cable stay Demerara River Crossing.
Then we anchored near where many thousands of birds come out to nest for the night.
Here we enjoyed a sunset beer and a glass of rum, before making our way back, passed the large ships which support the offshore oil industry, with the sun setting, the crescent moon in the sky, and lights reflecting on the muddy river. A wonderful way to end my visit to Guyana, before returning to the hotel.Read more
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Botanical Gardens & Market Tour
October 24, 2025 in Guyana ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
Early this morning, starting with a visit to the Botanical Gardens, home of the Blood-coloured Woodpecker.
The gardens have the Snail Kite, Grey Hawk, Pearl Kite, Carib Grackle, Red-bellied and Red-shouldered Macaws, and the festive parrot. Also, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Black-crested Antshrike, Silver-beaked Tanager, Buff-breasted Wren, Golden-spangled Piculet, and Ashy-headed Greenlet. Although I don't think I saw many of these.
After the Botanical Gardens, we had breakfast at a local stand and met our guide and host, Master Chef Delven Adams.Read more
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City Tour
October 24, 2025 in Guyana ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C
After the market, back in the bus for a city tour. First stop was the National Park, where I could feed the manatees in the lake.
Some of the particularly interesting sites in Georgetown included the National Museum, the Walter Roth Museum of Anthropology, which houses a collection of artefacts covering the history and lifestyle of the indigenous peoples. Plus, views of other historical buildings along the promenade, such as the Public Library, City Hall, the Victoria Law Courts, St. Andrews Kirk, Stabroek Market, and, of course, St. George’s Cathedral, which is one of the world’s tallest free-standing wooden buildings.
The tour finished at the Backyard Café for lunch, as the name suggests, it is a backyard that the Chef has turned into an exclusive little hidden gem. Here, the Chef prepared our lunch from the fruits and vegetables bought in the market in the morning.
In the afternoon, we transferred to the airport for a flight to Paramaribo.Read more
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Flight to Paramaribo - Suriname
October 24, 2025 in Suriname ⋅ 🌙 28 °C
Late evening, I arrived in Paramaribo, the capital of Suriname, and transferred to the Eco Torarica Hotel.
The flight took just over an hour, plus there was a 1-hour time difference from Guyana. The arrival formalities took a bit of time, then a transfer to the accommodation.
First impression was of a more modern country, some large shopping malls, brightly illuminated, and a good road from the airport.
Where I was staying had been transformed from a large townhouse into a hotel, located in the historic centre of Paramaribo, next to the Suriname River.
According to my guide information, the city has a slightly unusual collection of architecture. Located on the banks of the Suriname River, Paramaribo has changed hands a few times between the Dutch and the English in the early days of their involvement in the region, but was under Dutch control from 1815 until the end of colonial rule in 1975. Evidence of this heritage is seen in the city’s historic district (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), where wooden houses with elaborate and elegant facades line the streets close to the old Fort Zeelandia.
There is a unique ethnic mix here, and the population of the city is around 250,000.Read more
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Historic Inner City of Paramaribo
October 25, 2025 in Suriname ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
After breakfast, I went for a local orientation walk on a lovely, bright morning. Starting from the Eco Torarica Resort, down to Fort Zeelandia, which is a small 17th-century fortress built by colonists overlooking the Suriname River, and then into the historic centre.
Paramaribo is a former Dutch colonial town from the 17th-18th centuries, and much of the original and highly characteristic street plan remains intact.
A very good first impression, some beautiful old-style wooden buildings. I passed the Saint Peter & Paul Basilica, the main square, and back through the Palm Tree Garden Palmentuin.Read more
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Paramaribo – Commewijne District
October 25, 2025 in Suriname ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C
From the historic city centre, we headed out to the Commewijne district to the east of Paramaribo, across the Suriname River. The tour took us along the former colonial plantations, most of which are now abandoned. A nice and interesting stop at the plantation called Peperpot, where there are remains of the old coffee and cocoa factory. Also, the deputy director’s house and the old office are located.
This former plantation is one of the oldest in the history of Suriname. Peperpot was established by the English and already existed before Suriname was conquered by the natives from Zeeland under the command of Abraham Crijnssen in 1667. It is one of the last plantations still in its original condition. It is now converted to a lovely accommodation for tourists looking for a retreat in a traditional setting.
After this, a stop at a typical Javanese restaurant (warung) in Tamanredjo.Read more
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Fort New Amsterdam
October 25, 2025 in Suriname ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C
After lunch, we continued to the confluence of the Commewijne and Suriname Rivers at New Amsterdam. Here, we visited the outdoor museum of Fort New Amsterdam, with its large fortress, which was built as a defence for the crop fields that were situated along the upper parts of both rivers.
Here, I got some understanding of the conditions that the plantation workers had to experience and the ethnic diversity of the different communities that made up the workforce.Read more
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Sunset Dolphin Boat Trip
October 25, 2025 in Suriname ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
Later in the afternoon, we transferred to the pier at Leonsberg, where we were picked up for a sunset dolphin trip.
This was a lovely experience, and we enjoyed a few drinks and river views, and the company of the Guyana Dolphins, coming to the surface and then diving for fish. This was a really good couple of hours before sunset.Read more
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Paramaribo – Danpaati River Lodge
October 26, 2025 in Suriname ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C
An early departure heading south from Paramaribo to Atjoni by road, which took around 2.5 hours, and then on a small open motorised boat, for another 3 hours along the Upper Suriname River. The boat pilot had to navigate rocks and small rapids. On two occasions, we had to get out of the boat so they could get over the shallow sand and rocks. Along the way, we passed about 20 Maroon villages through some wonderful scenery.
By lunchtime, feeling a bit tired, we arrived at Danpaati River Lodge, which is situated on an island in the middle of the rainforest.
Danpaati River Lodge is in a very remote location, right in the heart of the rainforest. My cabin overlooked the river, relaxing and tranquil.
After lunch and a rest, it was down to the nearby rapids, where I enjoyed swimming in the river, admiring the surroundings, and having a nice cold beer.
After dinner, we headed out on the river in search of Caiman lying on the riverbank, and looking around for wildlife that comes out after sunset. Navigating the river in the dark, with just the outline of trees along the bank, illuminated by the moon, and avoiding rocks, very skilled.Read more
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Danpaati River Lodge
October 27, 2025 in Suriname ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C
Just after sunrise, I enjoyed a coffee on the deck overlooking the river. A short wander around the island gardens, where small monkeys feed in the trees, then a leisurely breakfast, before the first activity.
A boat ride upriver to explore the forest on foot with a guide, explaining about the traditional medicinal uses of the plants here.
Back to the lodge for a little rest before lunch, and later in the afternoon, we went out to visit one of the twelve villages that are affiliated with Danpaati, to learn a little about the customs and culture of the local Maroon groups.
We walked around the school and through the village.
The Maroon people are descendants of former runaway slaves who fled the colonial plantations from the end of the 17th century onwards, for a better life in the interior. Most settled alongside rivers, some crossing into French Guiana, and customs that they had brought with them from Africa remain, largely free from outside influences. This opportunity to visit a Maroon village presented a different side of Latin America, rarely encountered by travellers.
In the evening, after dinner at the lodge, there was a traditional and cultural dance performance by some local people. The guide explained the cultural significance of the different dances, such as the Seketi, Awasa & Bandamba.
An entertaining end to my stay.Read more
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Danpaati River Lodge to Paramaribo
October 28, 2025 in Suriname ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C
Another beautiful sunrise over the river as I had my morning tea on the deck of the cabin.
A light breakfast and leisurely morning, then an early lunch before departing back along the river to Atjoni and return to Paramaribo.
My last night in this lovely country.
Suriname offers a cultural mix and an unexpected Javanese population because, after the abolition of slavery, when the plantations needed a new source of labour, many came from that region. In 1890, the Netherlands Trading Society, owner of the plantation Marienburg, undertook a test to attract Javanese contract workers from the Dutch East Indies. Until then, it was mainly Hindustani contract workers from British India who worked on the plantations as field and factory workers. The test was considered successful, and by 1894, the colonial government took over the task of recruiting Javanese hands.
They came in small groups from the Dutch East Indies to the Netherlands, and from there to Paramaribo. The transport of Javanese immigrants continued until 1914. Later, many of these workers branched off to open restaurants. This brief tour showed a beautiful and interesting country.Read more
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Paramaribo to French Guiana
October 29, 2025 in French Guiana ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C
After breakfast, we departed the hotel to travel 2.5 hours along the coastal road to the border point at Albina. Customs and immigration formalities. Then boarded a pirogue (a small semi-covered motorised boat) crossing the Maroni River for French Guiana. Here we were met by our French guide on arrival in St Laurent. A mini city tour, making a brief visit to the well-preserved Transportation Camp. The facility was the processing centre for the majority of convicts being sent to the penal colonies in French Guiana. Having served their original sentences, the convicts were then obliged to serve the same length of time here in an attempt to populate the colonies. Perhaps the best-known inmate was Papillon.
A wander around the historic old town, very French in style, through the market, and then a lunch stop.
Then a drive for a couple of hours, with a short stop to visit the church of St. Joseph in Iracoubou. The entire inside of the church was hand-painted by a convict from a nearby penal colony.
Late afternoon, we arrived in the small city of Kourou for two nights at Hotel Atlantis.Read more
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Saint Laurent du Moroni - Devil’s Island
October 30, 2025 in French Guiana ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C
After breakfast, we transferred by road to the dock in Kourou for our departure to the Iles du Salut. What is commonly referred to as "Devil's Island" is a triangle of three islands - Îles du Salut, or the Salvation Islands, which are seven miles off the coast of Kourou. We set sail aboard a catamaran towards our first stop, Île Royale. The islands played a central role in French history as far back as 1762, when they were first used as a transit point, first for explorers, then slaves, and later for political prisoners and convicts. Île Saint-Joseph is the southernmost island and was known as the silent island, as inmates were not allowed to speak to either the guards or fellow convicts. Papillion claimed to have spent two years here in solitary confinement. St. Joseph was known as the ‘man-eater’ for obvious reasons.
Île Royale is the site of the oldest and most extensive buildings on the islands, featuring an old church, administration buildings, officers' quarters, and today, a restaurant and lodging facilities. Ironically, the actual Île du Diable (Devil's Island) is inaccessible to visitors due to dangerous shoreline conditions. This is the island where the prison's best-known occupant, Alfred Dreyfus, was famously secluded. Papillion claimed that he escaped the island on a coconut raft.
Our boat docked on Isle Royale. The prison buildings here are quite well preserved, and we could meander through the cell blocks, dormitory buildings, and other structures, such as the children's cemetery behind the old hospital.
Around the shore, there are sea turtles among the rocks near the dock, but I didn't see any.
We had a picnic lunch before later returning to Kourou by catamaranRead more
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Space Centre to Cayenne
October 31, 2025 in French Guiana ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C
This morning, there was a tour of the Centre Spatiale Guyanaise or the Guiana Space Centre.
The location of the space centre was selected based on a number of factors. One of the primary benefits is its proximity to the equator, which makes it more efficient, requiring substantially less energy to launch spacecraft into a near-equatorial, geostationary orbit compared to launching from spaceports at higher latitudes.
Interesting to walk around the control centre and visit some of the facilities.Read more
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Cayenne City
October 31, 2025 in French Guiana ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C
The final destination on this journey, Cayenne, the capital of French Guiana. Cayenne is the administrative and commercial centre of French Guiana. It is a typical Creole town with about 50,000 inhabitants, half of the entire population of the country. On arrival, we had a walking tour which passed Fort Cépérou, the Place Léopold Heder, Hotel of the Jésuites, the Place de Grenoble, Place des Palmistes, the colonial hospital, Franconie Museum, Town Hall, and finished in the city centre.
Later, we went out for a lovely meal to reflect on the journey.Read more
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Last Morning in Cayenne Old Town
November 1, 2025 in French Guiana ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C
After enjoying a lovely dinner last night, I decided to go for a brief walk around Cayenne Old Town after breakfast. The centre is mainly from the 17th century, and the old town district blends influences from France, the Caribbean, and Brazil. Tropical-colored Creole-style houses sit beside the hilltop ruins of the French colonial Fort Cépérou, which overlooks the Cayenne River.
I went through the market and old fishing harbour, very rundown; it seemed like quite a lot of the locals were fairly poor, and the shops and cafes outside of the centre were a bit rough and dirty.
Nevertheless, some parts found in the main commercial thoroughfare looked better.
I took a few pictures of the street graffiti and wandered about before returning to the hotel and awaiting my transfer to Aéroport International de Cayenne - Félix Éboué and my flight back via Paris.Read more
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Trip end
November 1, 2025