Walking tour of Rouen
June 24, 2025 in France ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F
As we walk to explore the cathedral, I'm reminded of the classic Pillars of the Earth by Ken Follet. If you haven't read this and are planning to visit Europe , then you should put this at the top ofRead more















Traveler
This photo captures a great candid moment from what looks like a guided tour in Rouen, likely right outside Rouen Cathedral. The tour guide is holding a laminated visual guide — and based on the colorful grid of images she’s showing, she appears to be discussing Claude Monet’s series of Rouen Cathedral paintings. Here’s what this guide is likely talking about: • 🎨 Monet painted over 30 versions of Rouen Cathedral, all from the same viewpoint but under different lighting and weather conditions. • 🕰️ He captured the changing light, shadow, and atmosphere at different times of day. • 🖼️ Many of these paintings are now in the Musée d’Orsay in Paris and private collections. • 🧠 Monet said he painted “what the light made me see, not what the object was.” These kinds of on-site insights bring art and history to life — and you’re lucky to have seen it explained firsthand in the very spot Monet once stood sketching.
Traveler
This is a tomb effigy, and from the style and details, it strongly appears to be that of Richard the Lionheart’s heart burial in Rouen Cathedral (Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen). Here’s what you’re likely seeing: • 🦁 The Lion at His Feet: This is symbolic of courage and nobility, fitting for Richard I of England, nicknamed “the Lionheart.” • ❤️ Only His Heart Is Buried Here: Richard died in 1199 and was buried in parts: • His heart in Rouen Cathedral, Normandy (because Rouen was his capital in France) • His body at Fontevraud Abbey, alongside his father, Henry II • His entrails in Châlus, where he died • 🪦 The Latin inscription on the tomb likely notes his name, title, and the fact that it contains only his heart. • 🏰 The carving style and recumbent pose are consistent with 12th–13th century royal tombs, emphasizing piety, nobility, and eternal rest.
Traveler
Great question — it might sound strange today, but in the Middle Ages, dividing a person’s body after death for burial in different places was actually a respected and symbolic practice, especially for royalty and high-ranking nobles. Here’s why: ⸻ 🛡️ 1. Political Symbolism & Loyalty For someone like Richard the Lionheart, who ruled over both England and large parts of France (Angevin Empire), splitting his remains honored the places he had strong connections to: • Heart in Rouen (Normandy): Rouen was the capital of his French territories and a center of his rule. Burying his heart there was a symbolic gesture of loyalty and affection for his Norman subjects. • Body in Fontevraud Abbey (Loire Valley): This was the royal burial place for his family — including his parents, King Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine. It emphasized dynastic unity. • Entrails in Châlus (where he died): Medieval embalming was primitive, so organs were often removed at the place of death for preservation and practical transport of the body. ⸻ 🕊️ 2. Spiritual Beliefs In medieval Christianity, people believed that: • The heart symbolized the soul and love. • Burial in multiple places allowed more masses and prayers to be offered for the deceased — increasing their chances of salvation. ⸻ ⚰️ 3. Practical Reasons • Transporting a full corpse across long distances without refrigeration was difficult and risky. • Removing organs helped prevent decomposition during travel. This was known as “mos Teutonicus” — a medieval practice especially used for nobility who died far from their chosen burial sites. ⸻ 🏰 Other Famous Examples: • Philip the Bold (Duke of Burgundy): body, heart, and entrails buried in different churches. • Queen Eleanor of Castile: Her viscera were buried in Lincoln, her heart at Blackfriars London, and her body at Westminster Abbey. ⸻ If you’d like,