Italy, Greece and Oman

Slow day yesterday, we visited a war museum created by a Cretan family directly impacted by the war. Mainland Greece was taken by the Germans at the end of April 41. The battle for Crete was fierce because of its position in the supply line between Egypt and Malta. Both sides threw everything at it and losses were hideous for everyone, especially the poor civilian population. After 10 days of bitter fighting Crete was controlled by the Germans. Over 20,000 allied soldiers fought their way over the mountains to a small fishing port called Sphakia. The Navy were able to evacuate all but 5000 troops. The mainly Australian, NZ and British troops left were either captured, killed or joined with the local guerrilla campaign. Local families suffered greatly during battle and occupation. Those that survived then suffered through a civil war (46-49) and a military junta from 64-74.Les mer

Spinalonga Island, off the coast of Crete near Elounda, has a fascinating history. Originally part of the mainland, it was fortified by the Venetians in the 16th century to protect the Gulf of Mirabello from Ottoman invasion. Later, it served under Ottoman rule before being reclaimed by Greece. From 1903 to 1957, Spinalonga became one of Europe’s last leper colonies, where those afflicted were sent to live in isolation.

Epaminondas Remoundakis was one of the most remarkable figures associated with Spinalonga’s history. Born in Crete in 1912, he was a law student in Athens when he was diagnosed with leprosy in his early twenties. In 1936, he was sent to Spinalonga, the island where sufferers were banished to live apart from the rest of society. Rather than surrender to hopelessness, Remoundakis became a driving force for change and dignity among the residents.

He founded the Brotherhood of the Sick of Spinalonga, an organisation that advocated for better living conditions, education, and cultural life on the island. Under his leadership, the community established a school, a theatre, and even a small orchestra. Through his persistence, Spinalonga transformed from a place of exile into a symbol of human resilience and solidarity.

Remoundakis believed that leprosy did not strip people of their humanity. He famously said, “We were exiled, but we never stopped being human. On Spinalonga, we built a life out of nothing, because dignity is not given — it is claimed.”

His story became widely known after his moving testimony in the documentary The Island of the Living Dead (1973), where he spoke with calm strength about the injustices faced by leprosy sufferers. When Spinalonga closed in 1957, Remoundakis continued to campaign for the rights of those affected by leprosy, reminding Greece — and the world — that compassion must overcome fear.

This was a very special place for me after reading the Victoria Hislop novel, The Island. Until the release of the book, many Greeks knew nothing about this part of their history.Les mer