Day 27, Hospital to Astorga

This afternoon we reached Astorga - this means we have roughly walked 520 kms and have about 270 kms to go. Every milestone we pass on the road seems to contradict the last one (and often your mileage increases as you progress) so all estimates are provisional.
Today’s walk was the last of the Meseta and the landscape is softening and becoming more verdant. As always, there were wildflowers in abundance for most of the route. The entrance to the city was circuitous - it involved the most annoying railway crossing I have ever seen which we reckoned added a kilometre to our mileage.
Astorga feels like an unremarkable city after the marvels of Leon and Burgos. I found it hard to love its cathedral which seemed second-rate after Leon.
However, it has one absolute treasure in the Gaudi Palace which justifies a trip to the city all on its own. It was absolutely beautiful! And, inside, with its vibrant light was reminiscent of Leon’s cathedral. Most of today’s photographs are attempts to capture its combination of modernism and medievalism.
In terms of people, we are bumping into a new group now. In the plaza at Astorga we met Brad who I had spoken to at Verde yesterday. When we stopped for coffee we met Ramona again. And this morning at breakfast we were fascinated as Georgie and Ben, an Australian couple, told us they’d retired even though they are both in their mid-forties. After a career in finance Ben said they had enough money to keep them going until they were 100 (though they insist they are not at all rich) so have decided to ‘live their life’. They have an 18 and 22 year old at home. G&B bought a camper van in December and started travelling, let their children know they’d decided not to return for Christmas and when they did get home, planned the Camino. They are now walking at their leisure - their only deadline a yoga retreat at the end of July! Fiona and I wondered if we were doing something wrong in our parenting!
Tomorrow we head for the hills. We can see them now on the horizon and although I fear my hill-walking muscles have disappeared, I am excited to see new and, dare I say it, more interesting countryside!Les mer