Bamsebu

The afternoon at Ingebrigtsenbukta, also known as Bamsebu, highlighted the historic human presence on Svalbard. Upon landing, the most startling and apparent feature was the many mounds of bones belonging to beluga. Beluga, now protected in Svalbard, have a long history of exploitation across the Arctic for subsistence and commercial reasons. They were the sole target of Norwegian whalers from the 1930s at Bamsebu until the early 1960s.

The whaling station at Bamsebu is unique, as it is the only remaining example of a targeted beluga station. Initially established by Ingvald Svendsen, it was responsible for the thousands of bones that now litter the beach. In 1977, scientists estimated that the bones originated from 550 individuals. The total number of belugas taken during the station's operation is unknown but presumed to be more than 15,000.

The wooden hut, Bamsebu, for which the site is named, was constructed by the whalers and is still used today. Its most famous recent occupants were Hilde Fålun Strøm and Sunniva Sorby, two citizen scientists who occupied the cabin from May to November 2020, collecting data on climate change. While the whaling station was still active, the hut served as a living quarters for the staff. The rowboats that now lie overturned on the beach would have been used to cast huge seine nets into the bay and tow entangled beluga ashore, where they met their end with a blow from a lance or rifle shot. Besides the main cabin, an upturned rowing boat named Kjeftausa was converted into a storage hut.

Guests enjoyed an hour ashore, wandering the beach and inspecting the cabin. Its specialised polar bear protection includes sharp nails that protrude outwards to help ward off any curious creatures. It is always a strange feeling when visiting such sites. The sombre atmosphere where hundreds of incredible creatures lost their lives can still be felt and provokes a genuine feeling of sadness. However, the exploitation and commercialisation of such hunts form an integral part of the region's history and provide a fascinating insight into the lives of the men and women looking to make their fortunes in these distant shores.

Text by Mike Smith, photos by John Shedwick.Læs mere