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Camino Portugues

April - Mei 2024
Linda and Kathleen on another adventure — walking from Porto (Portugal) to Santiago de Compostelo (Spain). An estimated 160 miles, 14 days on the trail with one rest day. Two days exploring Porto before and after. Come along with us! Baca lagi
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  • Camino Portugues
    Hari 13

    Redondela to Pontevedra

    3 Mei, Sepanyol ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    Ninth day of walking. Only 12 miles — which doesn’t seem long to us, ever since doing the 16- and 17-mile walks. There were two peaks to climb today — sometimes these are paths up actual hills, more often they are roads that go past occasional houses or through villages. There was a good bit of forest walking, which always feels good. Even in the rain.

    Small things offer big delights when your days are spent walking. When we opened the door to our hotel room, instead of the usual twin beds smushed together, there were THREE twin beds with space in between each of them! It felt positively luxurious.

    For dinner we found a tapas bar that opened at 7:00 (hallelujah!) and since it was still pouring we treated ourselves to a taxi ride. A local delicacy is choco — or cuttlefish, cousin to the squid. We were brave and ordered choco croquettes. The inside was inky black — because they are actually cooked in their own ink. 😱 Edible, but not delicious. The salad, sausages, and potatoes were good, and the wine, only €2.50 a glass, was perfect.    Baca lagi

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  • Camino Portugues
    11
    Hari 14

    Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis

    4 Mei, Sepanyol ⋅ 🌫 61 °F

    Sooo many pilgrims walking out of town this morning! But as people found their own pace, the crowd thinned out. It rained the ENTIRE 13 miles, and we ended up dripping wet, with shoes squelching and spattered with with mud. There were puddles and mud on most of the paths, and we encountered two flooded streams rushing over the Camino, quite unnerving. The first one we were able to ford, completely drenching our shoes; the second one turned all of us back to find an alternate route.

    Along the way we met Jason from Seattle who was walking at about the same pace as us, We spent much of the day chatting with him. He was charming and a character and meeting him was the highlight of our day. That and lunching on another bocadillo the size of our heads — and they gave us a packet of mayonnaise! We miss American condiments!

    After dinner (which included a scrumptious caldo Gallego, the national soup of Galicia), we walked down to the chuch where we were treated to amazing traditional Galician music — a chorus of singers with bagpipes, drums, tambourines and hurdy-gurdies. Celtic music blended with Galician music is rousing and goes back centuries. Standing ovations and encores should happen more often in churches.

    As of today we have walked 135 miles with only 27 to go!    Baca lagi

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  • Camino Portugues
    Hari 15

    Caldas de Reis to Padron

    5 Mei, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    It’s our second to the last day … yikes! Misty rain today, not the heavy thunder showers that were predicted. Most of the path was off roadways, so quite pleasant. We arrived at our rural hotel before 4 pm — and it’s one of the nicest we’ve stayed in. Plus, it has *real* hangers, and towel hooks in the bathroom … again, we are thankful for the small things!

    We met some boisterous Aussies as well as a sweet couple from Ireland and two couples from Calgary. As we sat outside listening to music, talking and sipping wine, the SUN appeared. It was heavenly to feel it on our (three days of rained-on) bodies.

    Our daily morning mantra is “Our only job today is to walk, and be grateful.” We do, and we are. 👣🙏🏽    Baca lagi

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  • Camino Portugues
    Hari 16

    Padrón to Santiago!

    6 Mei, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    It was a bit confusing this morning, to find our way back to the Camino. But NO RAIN! So no rain gear! Free at last — and dry!

    We made two stops, first for cafe con lèche and later for a ham & cheese bocadillo. We stopped for an emotional photo op at the 10k obelisk, marking that we two met 30 years ago at a 10k race (which we were power walking). When we arrived in Santiago, just around the corner from the Cathedral, we heard someone shout, “Linda!” We looked around and saw the first friends we had made on day one of the Camino, Aisling and Callum from Cork, Ireland. They said they had been hoping to see “the girls” before they left, and were watching for us in the crowd streaming by. After completing our journey standing in front of the cathedral of St. James (and a bit overcome with emotion), we laughed with them for almost 2 hours! We saved our visit to inside the Cathedral for tomorrow, when we will have all morning free.

    We met up with some other pilgrim-friends (Jason, Bill, and his friend Marco) for a last dinner together, and shared a plateful of the famous Padrón peppers (which weren’t available at our Padrón hotel dinner). “Most pimiento de padrons are as about as mild as your typical bell peppers, which have zero heat on the Scoville Scale. However, about 1 in every 10 peppers will give you a surprising jolt of heat. It's a bit like playing Russian Roulette with your tongue.” No one at our table appeared to get jolted!    Baca lagi

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  • Camino Portugues
    Hari 17

    Santiago back to Porto

    7 Mei, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Sleeping in! No rush at breakfast! But … yes, we want (and need) to walk. Our bodies seem to like this active daily routine. And we needed to collect our Compostela, the certificate we earned by walking to Santiago. We followed other pilgrims to find the office where this happens. They check your pilgrim passport filled with stamps from churches, cafes, and lodgings all along the Camino, making sure you got at least 2 each day. Then they present you with two very ornate personalized certificates, one in Latin, the other in Spanish.

    The inside of the Cathedral was like nothing either of us had ever seen; the photos will not do it justice. There was a cathedral museum that we didn’t have time to visit — and a pilgrim museum that we heard about but never found. Since we’re already talking about doing another Camino, we’ll catch them then — as well as the trip out to Finisterre.

    We bumped into several of our pilgrim friends on our morning walk-about. Kathleen was so good about exchanging contact info with everyone; I have no doubt she’ll be receiving visits from some of them!

    Our taxi driver arrived just before 1:00, and the 2-week trip on foot took only 2.5 hours to return by car. We arrived in Porto in the midst of thousands of university students celebrating the end of their studies by parading in the streets — most of which were closed to traffic. We eventually got to our hotels — and Kathleen met up with her husband Jack, who had come to Portugal to celebrate their 10th anniversary. We had a final dinner together, and tomorrow will visit the famous bookstore where JK Rowling is reputed to have been inspired, and take a sailboat wine-tasting tour down the Douro River.

    What an incredible journey this has been!    Baca lagi

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