3 Capes

January 2023
An excellent adventure in the South East of Tasmania.
I acknowledge the traditional and original owners of the land, the pydarerme people, and thank them for taking care of this incredibly beautiful and special place.
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  • Day 1

    Day 1: Port Arthur to Surveyors Hut

    January 23, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    And we’re off…
    Our first day started in Port Arthur and a boat trip out past Crescent Bay. The conditions were so calm we could venture out to the Tasman Sea and look out to the horizon where the next land mass you would hit is Antartica.
    We were then dropped off at Denman’s Cove to wade in to the beach and from there the start of the walk.
    We and our fellow walkers spread out on the beach, had our first snack of dehydrated apple and lollies and then set out with a mix of excitement and apprehension.
    The coastal heathland made way for eucalypt woodland in the climb up to our first night’s hut - “Surveyors”. Ranger Jess met us and we put down our packs and settled in to enjoy the sweeping views of Cape Raoul.
    First dinner on trail - snacks of savoys and rehydrated humus followed by pork and fennel meatballs with pasta.
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  • Day 2

    Day 2: Surveyors to Munro

    January 24, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Breakfast was pancakes with rehydrated maple syrup before we donned our packs and started the days’ 11 km hike.
    Things started to get pretty spectacular after climbing Arthur’s Peak and hitting the cliff tops with views back out to Crescent Bay.
    The trail then headed back into the forest before arriving at our next hut “Munro” where we were met by Ranger Renee.
    A downside of Munro was a long walk to the pit toilets. The upside ? The incredible deck looking over Munro Bight and out to Cape Huay. Also - the only showers of the trip - bush showers where you hoisted a canvas bucket of water for a luxury 3 minute downpour !
    Dinner night 2 we got stuck into to dehydrated stuff. Mexican beans and rice for Russell and Ivy, Indian veggie curry for me and beef stroganoff for Henry.
    We passed the (seemingly endless) daylight hours with UNO and scrabble until the sun finally set around 9:00 and we could crawl into bed.
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  • Day 3

    Day 3: Cape Pillar (Munro to Retakunna)

    January 25, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Day 3 started with a cup of tea on the deck as the sun rose.
    Breakfast was porridge and coffee.
    This was the 19 km day, but happily mostly without packs as we swung by Munro again before heading out to Retakunna.
    If we thought yesterday was spectacular, today knocked it out of the park as we walked out to the tip of Cape Pillar. Along the way we saw seals down on the rocks (thanks to Russell and his binoculars) and (some) made the hair-raising climb up “The Blade” a skinny outcrop looking out to Tasman Island.
    Tasman Island light-house is perched on the rugged cliffs. The handful of inhabitants had to get winched up the cliffs with their belongings. In the 1920s the light-house keeper and his wife had all their teeth removed before arrival to prevent an infection. When their daughter got pneumonia they had to send pigeons out and light a bonfire to attract attention and help - hard times.
    Back at Munro we reluctantly reunited with our packs to make the hour long trudge to the last night’s cabin Retakunna. Ranger Jacinta met us and briefed us on the final days’ walk.
    Dinner was dehydrated red curry, noodles and beef stroganoff with caramel popcorn chocolate for dessert.
    It was Burns night and Russell and I shared 30 ml of the Old Pulteney.
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  • Day 4

    Day 4: Cape Hauy and Fortescue Bay

    January 26, 2023 in Australia

    Another incredible (but kind of tough) day.
    We started out early (6:45 am) because our first feat was to climb Mount Fortescue. Luckily it was all in cool, lush rainforest which made all the steps a little bit more bearable.
    On the other side it was back to the cliffs. We were able to dump our packs again for the trek out to Cape Huay - down, then back up for another awe inspiring view from the tip of the Cape.
    Back to the packs, then it was a steady downhill climb to the end - Fortescue Bay. We all jumped in for a freezing (!!) dip before getting on the bus back to Port Arthur and descending on the Port Arthur Visitor Centre cafeteria (jelly, fruit cups, pies, panini, cookies, and coffee in plentiful supply).
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