Ngorogoro

Today it's time for a safari that we've been excited about for a while- Ngorogoro Crater. It's the world's largest collapsed volcanic caldera- the floor of the crater stretches across 100 square miles. It's also completely cut off from the outside, creating a Lost World, with one of the highest concentrations of predators in the world. Lion sightings here are almost guaranteed.

Our charismatic guide, Suleiman, drives 2000ft down from the crater edge down to the caldera floor and start the safari. We see a plethora of zebra, ostrich, buffalo, hippo, and, incredibly, get right up next to a pair of female lions. We find them on a small elevated rock formation, keeping watch over the surrounding area. One is taking a nap, and moves right next to our van, meaning that when we stick our heads out to take a look, she's only a few feet away from our faces. It's intense.

After a few more hours driving around, spotting more lions and enjoying the incredible views, we head out. And then we stop. There are two rhinos. We excitedly scan the distance for them, but it's only when using binoculars that you're able to see two tiny brownish-grey smudges a good kilometre or so away. It still counts. The next rhino spotting, just a couple of minutes after, is even harder to see. After squinting through the binoculars, we can discern a sort of grey spot next to what might be a tree. "Exactly" confirms Suleiman.

Greg's brother, Francis, picks us up from Ngorogoro to take us back to Arusha, whilst Martyn and Laura continue their safari to the Serengeti. Francis drives at about a million miles per hour through the dark, blasting out 90s Hip-Hop and encouraging us to buy ciders from the shop. It's a great journey, and we only got pulled over twice!

Over the next couple of days, we have to wait for Martyn and Laura to catch up. We head to the next city, Moshi, without them. We wait for our travelling partners, and wait for the skies to clear to offer a glimpse of Kilimanjaro. We're not climbing it- it's eye-wateringly expensive- but the views alone are stunning.Read more