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Pat’s Cycle Tour - 2019
  • Patrick Leary
  • Patrick Leary

Pat’s Cycle Tour - 2019

This tour will be through a small part of SE Asia, starting in Thailand, Cambodia, and finishing in Vietnam (Ho Chi Minh City, also known as Saigon). The route will mainly follow the coastal area where I hope to do some scuba diving Read more
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  • Trip start
    March 29, 2019
  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    Reclining Buddha (46m long)
    Wat Pho monasteryGrand PalaceGrand Palace1Grand PalaceGrand PalaceGrand PalaceGrand Palace

    Bangkok

    March 30, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Exploring Bangkok like the rest of the tourists (Note to self - don't forget sun protection next time). Made use of the Skytrain, and the Chao Phraya River Express to reach most of the landmarks.
    The Grand Palace was jam packed with tourists, and with the heat I flew through there and was glad to be out. At least on the river there is some breeze and also you get to see see the city from a different angle.Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    Skytrain
    LongboatWhat Arun ( Temple of Dawn)11

    Bangkok

    March 31, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Started the day by going for a walk in the park not far from the hotel. Didn't take me long to realize that I needed to be back on the river where its much cooler.

    Took the Skytrain to the pier, and then took a ride on a longboat (big automotive motor at the rear with a direct drive to an extended propeller. Steering is done by swivelling the complete assembly). Meanandered through the canals (khlongs) seeing a different part of Bangkok "Venice of the East".

    Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) is decorated in thousands of tiny sea shells and pieces of Chinese porcelain.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    1Control Tour looking a bit suspectI hope that reads "Mr Patrick" ?Tuk Tuk from Airport to Hotel1Yes..... I do did try it !Siem Reap Night Market

    Siem Riep (Cambodia)

    April 1, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    What was meant to have been a 1 hour flight, ended up by being 2 hours with one aborted landing due to bad weather.
    Good or bad, the lady next to me said that I looked like a pilot. Then the receptionist at the hotel asked if I was 30 years old, and I had to correct her and told her I was 40 !
    Found an ATM that dispenses Riel (KHR) with many 000,000. Next step was to find a SIM card. Hired my bicycle to explore tomorrow, and now time to quench my thirst.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    1

    Angkor Wat - Day 1

    April 2, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    To put Angkor Wat into perspective, I covered 55km today exploring all the temples, and probably walked at least another 15km.

    Angkor Wat is an enormous Buddhist temple complex located in northern Cambodia. It was originally built in the first half of the 12th century as a Hindu temple. However, by the end of the 12th century, it was considered a Buddhist site. Spread across more than 400 acres, Angkor Wat is said to be the largest religious monument in the world. 

    When it was built, it served as the capital of the Khmer empire, which ruled the region at the time. The word “Angkor” means “capital city”, while the word “Wat” means “temple.”    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary

    Angkor Wat - True Story

    April 2, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    True story. I had hosted a young American touring cyclist who had been on the road for 18 months. Cycled from his home in North America, through South America, and then flew over to South Africa. 

    He then cycled to Cape Town, then up through Africa, and across into Europe. Two years later I bump into Mike Dits, in of all places, the Angkor Wat temples in Cambodia 😳

    I guess it was meant to be. He had seen me earlier and thought "impossible". I then saw him entering a temple and thought "impossible". In the vast complex we met again and realized we did know each other 😳    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    1
    1

    Angkor Wat - Day 2

    April 3, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    The Angkor Wat temple is surrounded by a 15-foot high wall, with a moat 5 km long and 4m deep to protect the city, the temple and residents from invasion. A sandstone causeway served as the main access point for the temple.

    The entire city of Angkor used up far greater amounts of stone than all the Egyptian pyramids combined, and occupied an area significantly greater than modern-day Paris.

    This city contains hundreds of temples. The population may have been over 1 million people. It was easily the largest city in the world until the Industrial Revolution. Angkor had an urban core that could easily have held 500,000 people and a vast hinterland that had many more inhabitants.

    Another temple here, Angkor Thom, famous for the movie "Tomb Raider" in which Angeline Jolie featured.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    No damage which is always a relief
    Sleeping Capsules

    Bangkok - Airport (BKK)

    April 4, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    Arrived back in Bangkok airport, and first did a recce of the airport layout before collecting my bike.
    During the recce I came across some sleeping capsules. I guess if you are claustrophobic these would not be a good idea.
    Collected my bike box, headed over to an elevator that I found earlier, and assembled the bike. Went up two levels and stepped out into the lobby of the Novatel Airport Hotel, thanked the staff and left.
    Finding a road leading away from the airport was painless and I was on my way in no time.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    Ninja Mask
    Leaving BangkokFree Condoms in the Hotel Room1Me When I'm Done With Touring

    Pattaya

    April 5, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Leaving any big city is never easy and always a bit of a slog. Never did I feel unsafe, but what I never expected as I headed SE was the infrastructure. For 70km there was an overhead carriageway, a lower carriageway, and then a service road that I was using.
    Then for the next 60km this became a three lane motorway in both directions.
    Although hot, I used my Ninja face mask for the whole ride. I felt invincible, at the junctions I would be given right of way, and even the scrawny dogs would run in the other direction (secondary purpose was that it helped with the dust and fumes).
    Never before have I seen free condoms together with the coffee and tea in a hotel room.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    11

    Rayong

    April 6, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    The road leading out from Pattaya was still busy with three lanes in either direction. Eventually the traffic became less.
    Took a detour down to a fishing village, drying on racks in the sun were fish scales, which I later figured out are used to make wind chimes.
    Around 2pm I called it a day and found a decent cabin across the road from the beach.
    Lunch was a chicken and rice dish, on the beach from one of the local kiosks, and served at a table and recliner in the shade of the trees. Couldn't resist a nap on the recliner after lunch, I think the beer helped.
    Took a walk along the beach later followed by a swim, my first swim in the Gulf of Thailand. Life is bliss.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    11

    Laeng Sing (Thailand)

    April 7, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Although not easy to wake up early every morning, the early starts are great.
    Not far into the ride I took shelter in a hardware store for about 40 minutes when a storm came lashing down.
    From there the ride was into a headwind which really eats in to you. Around midday a break was called for and I took a nap amongst some market stalls (probably used as a night market).
    As far as roadkill goes, I've seen chameleons, water monitors, and massive toads. Close to the end of the ride with my focus waning, I almost rode over a snake (at least 2m long). I don't know who got more of a fright, me or the snake (snakes can pick up the vibration of someone walking towards them, but not the case with a bicycle rolling along).    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    Clever Pooch.....spends all day at the door of the convenience store where cool air gushes out each time the d

    Laem Ngop (Thailand)

    April 8, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    The rain came pelting down last night, with claps of thunder that the wooden cabin would literally shake. Awesome to go to bed listening to the rain coming down.
    The monks typically start meditating around 5am, and when I start riding around 6:30am, you will see them walking around the neighborhood while locals make merit by offering food, and then go back to meditating before starting their chores.
    On the back roads you find many temples, at some of the bigger temples I would stop and take a look around the grounds.
    Took the quieter roads again today hugging the coastline. I was hoping at the end of my ride to find a little shack with a view of the sea, instead ended up with a view of the mangrove swamps. Luckily over the road was I convenience store where I found a can of Doom (equivalent) that looks like a mini fire extinguisher. Its already come in handy to terminate a massive cockroach.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    1
    River lifeSelf Service petrol pump used mainly by the scootersManufacturing of bamboo crab traps

    Ban Huang Som (Thailand)

    April 9, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Today was one of those days where cycling just seemed so much easier. Cruised along merrily on some of the quieter roads.
    The river estuaries seemed to be used a lot as fishing villages and from here they launch their fishing boats through the mouth of the estuary. The homes are built on stilts over the water. It's great to spend time in the villages watching all the activities.
    Late afternoon I went for a swim off the beach, the water was so hot that it was actually uncomfortable, not at all refreshing. I must have gone offshore about 500m, about waist deep, but it was just the same. Headed back and had a swim in the resort pool which was just slightly cooler.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    Evil looking warriorsPetrol for the scootersLocal taxiHerb garden over the river1Creativity

    Tatai (Cambodia)

    April 10, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    Had to endure the border crossing into Cambodia today. Emigration on the Thailand side was quick, entry into Cambodia not so quick. I was hoping to sneak in with my single entry visa that was issued when I went to Siem Reap last week, not so. Another $37 for a new visa.
    Had my first taste of the hills that are to come, climbing at walking pace and the heat radiating from the tar was intense (41°C).
    Met another touring cyclist heading in the opposite direction. We stopped and chatted for about an hour, in the only shade we could find, a cemetery. He is wild camping and gets by with less than $10 a day !    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    1Taxi....some I have seen with passengers sitting on the scooters hanging out the backLandmine warning sign I think, no intention of finding out1Sunrise over the forestsSunriseWhile says money doesn't grow on treesLeaving the mainlandWhen the road runs out...1Basic amenities

    Koh Sdach

    April 11, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    The kind lady at the hotel gave me 'padkos' for the road today, 4 eggs, 4 slices of bread, and one Dragonfruit. Today I started out one hour before sunrise, the idea was to summit one of the big climbs before it became to hot. For those that think this is easy, it's not; blood, sweat and tears, just to bring you a few pictures. Sometimes plans go array, on the spur of the moment, I headed off the main road, and am now 60km off track, on a small island, in the most primitive of fishing villages. I only arrived here at 5pm after 12 hrs on the bike (136km). I guess in Cambodia this is not the sign for "I need a lift NOW" 👍
    I drank gallons today and survived on my 'padkos' some bananas, and nuts.
    I crossed from the mainland to a fishing village on a Island with a dinghy for $2.50, and found a 'homeshare' which is basic but adequate. Most stalls had already closed in the village by the time I had showered and done my daily laundry. The families were sitting out front having there dinner. All I could find for myself was a bowl of soup with some chicken and sprouts.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    Kids fishingTransit to visit another islandLunch on the pierFishing through the floorboardsEvining dinner with my hosts

    Koh Sdach - Day 2

    April 12, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    This is not your typical tourist destination, this is the real Cambodia, and very little to no English is spoken.
    After yesterday's epic day, today was a day off. A family member from the Guest House took me for a walk through the village, we then arranged a boat to take us to another island, him and his onterage came along for the ride. His wife, two sons, and two other kids. After exploring the island we had lunch on the pier, washed down by beers. It was then that I noticed some fruit bats hanging in a net from the rafters (these came back with us on the boat).
    I was heading out to find dinner, when the family invited me to join them. All started out well with rice and fresh squid on the grill, then some salty chewy fish. From there things got serious, one of the family pointed to the fire; superman he says (aka fruit bat). While this was being prepared, a squawk, and a chicken was removed from its roosting spot in the rafters and was also on the fire five minutes later. Don't judge, this is life in rural Cambodia.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    Squid on the grillBack to the mainland1Crammed in the bus1Building for harvesting swallow nests

    Kampot (Cambodia)

    April 13, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ 🌧 33 °C

    Today I made up for some lost time (following my earlier diversion) by making use of the local transport for part of the route. Watching the bus being loaded I thought it would not be possible to load anything more. 80% of the bus was loaded to the roof with crates of fish. They then removed a row of seats, and three scooters were loaded through the side door. No space for my bike inside so it hung precariously by rope at the rear of the bus. Then 20 humans crammed in, all intertwined, some standing, and at least three on each scooter.
    Arrived in Kampot, and although a small town, a surprising number of tourists, and also expats running the many guest houses.
    All over Cambodia you will see what look like abandoned concrete buildings, but these are for harvesting the nests of swallows. Bird songs are piped in with speakers to attract more swallows. The nests can be sold for as much as $1,800 / kg on the Chinese market. They are used for skincare, anti-cancer, and for impotence (good thing.... leave our Rhinos alone).    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    Durian roundabout
    1Durian stallSpirit House1New Year festivitiesLily pondKampot river boat

    Kampot - Day 2

    April 14, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    Town is quiet today, only a few tourists and expats roaming around. It is the Khmer New Year starting today and runs for three days.
    One of the most popular fruits in these parts is the Durian, but due to its overpowering smell, it has been banned on many types of public transport. At the airports you will also see signs that it is prohibited.
    Everywhere in Thailand, spirit houses can be seen, at private homes, factories, hotels, restaurants, temples and even along roads where deadly crashes happened.
    Flowers, food, drinks and also little figurines representing servants, dancers, elephants, horses, cars are given to the spirit of the land. The dancers shall entertain him. The elephants and horses shall transport him.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    1CemeteryRural home in CambodiaSugar Cane Juice1Squid

    Kep (Cambodia)

    April 15, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    With New Year celebrations ongoing the beaches were packed, and the roads gridlocked. SA is not the only country where the masses flock to the beaches for the holidays. At least with a bicycle it was possible to still get around town.
    This area of Cambodia is renowned for its Salt Mines, Pepper Farms, and seafood.
    Lunch whilst I was cycling was duck from a roadside stall, very tough but editable. Dinner was an amazing crab dish with coconut milk.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    Salt MiningEven the bike needs occasional TLCBreakfast for the roadRed Ambulance (Coca Cola)2Glossy Tourist Brochure ? This is reality

    Phu Quoc (Vietnam)

    April 16, 2019 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    The border crossing from Cambodia to Vietnam was uneventful. Very quite, I think that I was the only person leaving Cambodia. Arrived in a small town of Ha Tien and found myself an ATM and withdrew some local Dong, also with 000,000. Next again was to find a SIM card for data.
    In Ha Tien many buildings have added an extra floor especially for the swallows to harvest the nests. All over town are speakers playing bird calls, if the barking geckos, don't keep you awake at night, this racket sure will.
    From there I found a ferry to take my across to the island of Phu Quoc, a three hour crossing, the fare R140 ($10) for me and my bike.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    11

    Phu Quoc (Vietnam) - Day 2

    April 18, 2019 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Taking a break from cycling, and spending a few days doing some scuba diving, my other passion.
    The reefs here are okay, but still hard to beat the reefs off Mozambique, Madagascar, and SA. It takes about two hours to get to the dive sites (boats are very slow), and then typically two dives per day. Lunch is served on the boat after the 2nd dive on your way home.Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    Ho Chi MinhPerhaps final wash, and then ?No English signs, but looks like a war cemetery

    Can Tho (Vietnam)

    April 20, 2019 in Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 32 °C

    Can Tho (Vietnam) 🇻🇳
    Time to leave the island of Phu Quoc and head back to the mainland. I took the earliest ferry possible so that I could at least get in some cycling today. Docked on the mainland in a town called Rach Gia around 10am and began cycling. All good plans go awry. The town I had earmarked to stay, had no accommodation. Zilch. There was a marathon the following day and all rooms taken. No option but to push on to the next town with accommodation, arriving there well after sunset.Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    Offloading CementBack AlleysFuel PumpFerry CrossingLunch - Grilled Banana wrapped in Sticky Rice1From small paths, to major infrastructure1

    Bao Tang Tinh (Vietnam)

    April 21, 2019 in Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    Bao Tang Tinh (Vietnam) 🇻🇳
    The first ferry to the far bank was R1, then followed some back roads on the way out of town.
    It's a nightmare navigating through the delta with all the small roads you have to keep on referring to the "Maps.Me" App to make sure you are on the right track.
    Stopped at a roadside stall for my new "go to" drink, some freshly squeezed sugar cane juice. Obliging old toothless lady with no shoes served me. Time to pay, I pull out my money, and although I had small notes, she takes 500,000.00 Dong (R300) from me. Wait for my change, nothing. I demand my money back and call her a thief and a witch (don't worry she for sure couldn't understand English). Gave her a fair amount, climbed on my bike and rode off. I've probably been shortchanged before, but this was so blatant.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat’s Cycle Tour - 2019Patrick Leary
    2Chaotic TrafficScooter WorkshopNight Market1Bike Packed2Throwback to Thailand

    Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

    April 23, 2019 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 36 °C

    Ho Chi Minh city (Vietnam) 🇻🇳
    Final push today from the outskirts of HCM and cycled straight to a bike shop (Mr Biker) that I had found earlier on the "Warmshowers" community. Very thankful for the Garmin on the bike today, it successfully navigated me into the city on some of the quieter minor roads. The staff in the workshop were most obliging and helped me pack the bike into a box. Even managed a shower in the back of the workshop before loading the bike box and myself into a taxi for the hotel. One minor problem somewhere sealed in the bike box are my house keys and remote....
    Another "short" cycle tour unfortunately comes to an end, again a good experience, and memories that will last for a long time. Thanks for following ....    Read more

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