• Cathy Toole

Albanian Adventure

A 7-day adventure by Cathy Read more
  • Trip start
    September 16, 2025

    Day one Tirana

    September 16 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Early and easy flight to Tirana . The weather is amazing! Really hot so hope it cools down a little when we start walking!
    We had a great tour of Tirana with a local guide who had been a child in the communist dictatorship that had isolated the country for many years. He said the end of the dictatorship and the new country that emerged was like having been blind and then able to see.
    Tirana is an extraordinary amalgam of different architectural styles. It was heavily influenced by Mussolini during the war and now investment is being poured into high rise 5 star hotels. The coast is also being developed into an Albanian riviera with new marinas and developments being planned all along the coast.
    I found it interesting and quite overwhelming! It is a young vibrant city !
    We’re off into the countryside tomorrow to walk and then have a cookery class. Dinner will be what we cooked!
    Lovely group as ever !
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  • Day 2 Walking in the Mountains

    September 17 in Albania ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We left Tirana at 8.15 in the morning and set out towards Elbasa and the mountains beyond. I want to see more of Tirana as it has a vibrant art scene and university. Luckily we have more time there next Monday afternoon and Tuesday morning. The National Art Gallery is there but it is closed for refurbishment.
    We drove towards the town of Elbasa which had a huge industrial plant under the communist government. It was a heavy pollutant of the local area and since the fall of the communist government has largely closed down but a Turkish company is working part of the plant. It was sad and very industrial. A reminder of how strict and repressive a regime it was.
    We passed through the town and saw the work being done to renovate the old railway system. During the communist regime trains ran throughout Albania but fell into disrepair around 2012. They are now being rebuilt. Part of the huge amount of work that is taking place to rebuild the infrastructure of the country. Goods can then be transported more cheaply hopefully reducing prices in the shops and traffic on the roads. Train travel will also support the growing tourist industry which it seems is where most investment is going.
    The walk we had was eventful! According to our guide Albanians can’t understand why we want to walk up a mountain and back down! They work 6 days a week and it is the last thing they want to do on the 7th! And it certainly wasn’t a pastime during the communist regime . So there are no real footpaths as we know them! Our guide took us up the mountain and then straight down it along a path that was more of a goat track with lots is very spiky vegetation.! At the end of the path there was an 8 foot drop onto the path below! Not a problem you may think but many in the group were well into their 70s and even those who weren’t were a bit anxious! Anyway my new friend Liz and I slid down first and then the others followed. Luckily all survived in tact. One of the things I love about the people who do HF holidays is that no one ever complains! They just get on with it!
    We then had a 3 hour drive further up into the mountains circling the beautiful and deepest lake in the Balkans Lake Okrid. We will be returning there for further walks.
    We are now in the mountainous village of Voskepoje. It is a beautiful place high in the mountains. It is about 5 degrees cooler up here. We are staying in a guest house and have just enjoyed the most fabulous vegetarian meal. All the vegetables are grown in their garden and the water is pure spring water. We had a mountain herbal tea to complete the meal.

    There is a government initiative to rebuild many of the villages that fell into disrepair or were abandoned during the previous regime. They are encouraging Guest Houses and holidays here not just for tourists but also for Albanians. It is cool up here in the summer and has snow in the winter. I’m looking forward to exploring it more.
    Having a wonderful time !
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  • Day Three Exploring Voskapoja

    September 18 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Left the guest house at 9.00 this morning and did a wonderful hike up into the pine forest taking in a newly renovated Christian Orthodox Church with the most amazing frescos. Then we visited a monastery returning to the village for a glass of the local spirit Raki and strong Turkish coffee.
    I wandered around Vaskapoja this afternoon. There is not a lot going on. A little strange as it has been renovated for tourists but there are very few here so a little unreal! I have been drinking the local mountain tea made from a herb found on the mountain. I’m currently sitting in a very pretty garden in front of yet another hotel. The local older men are sitting drinking beer and there’s no one else here apart from a sleepy dog.
    Having a siesta now and then dinner!
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  • Day 4 Korçë

    September 19 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We left our guest house this morning ( having had to climb over the garden wall when we came back from dinner last night as the main gates had been locked! ) and did another wonderful climb up into the mountains and the pine forest. A major climb but rewarded with fantastic views.
    We then drove into the vibrant town of Korca a few kilometres from Voskopoje . We are staying in a beautiful little hotel on the edge of the old Ottoman bazaar. It reminds me a little of some of the hotels In Vejer. It must be the Moorish influence! .
    The bazaar is renovated and restored as are so many of the buildings in Albania. We saw the renovated Mosque and the new Cathedral. I also went off piste and visited the Mili museum. Mili was a photographer born here in Korca. He and his family left here when he was very small and moved to Bucharest. He then went to America where he first trained as an engineer then became a photographer . A fascinating exhibition and lovely little gallery.

    Everything is so cheap here. A glass of wine is generally around £3.00 and a beer £1.00. £2.00.
    The average salary is £700 a month and most people rent their homes . State education is apparently only 2 hours a day so families have to finance private education.

    Also haven’t mentioned that Mother Theresa is very special here. She was Albanian and is now very much revered. There are statues of her in many places!

    Another wonderful day! Dinner tonight with entertainment!

    After walking tomorrow morning we go to North Macedonia!
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  • Day Five North Macedonia

    September 20 in North Macedonia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    This morning we got up early as usual and left Albania for North Macedonia.
    We were feeling slightly stung as the pretty hotel was not as good as it looked. Wine and water were western prices and the evening meal very sparse with poor service. We did have local music but it went on until 11.30 so no one could sleep before then! It was fun though.
    We drove across the border showing our passports and transferring to Euros from Let.
    We then went up Ito Galicia National park driving around the banks of the hugely beautiful Lake Ohrid. We were met by our guide and climbed up to one of the highest peaks. The photos show the incredible views taking in 2 lakes.
    After our climb we drove into Ohrid and checked into our hotel. It is a big resort on the bank of the lake. It is very lovely down by the lakeside where the old town begins and where we dipped into the lake which was wonderful!
    We will be doing a tour of the old town tomorrow.
    We had a great dinner and finished up drinking cocktails in the Sky bar at our Hotel!
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  • Day Six Aroind Lake Ohrid

    September 21 in North Macedonia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Up early again and did a mountain walk through old villages and forests that have bears and wild boars!
    I spent the afternoon on my own just for a little break. I had lunch in a taverna overlooking the lake then found a sun bed on the lakeshore and took some time out.
    I then wandered up to the old town taking in several churches and monasteries. It really is a very beautiful place.
    Dinner tonight and then the return drive to Tirana having a walk in the morning first ! Of course!!!
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  • Day 7 Return to Tirana

    September 22 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We left beautiful Lake Ohrid at 8.30 and drove back across the border into Albania. It took a couple of hours but our guide Robert gave us a lot more information about living in Albania today that at the moment I’m too tired to relate!
    We did quite a strenuous walk through mountain villages ending up at a bar where a beer was most welcome! We then continued our drive back to Tirana. I quickly showered and changed as I really wanted to see more of this new city. It is vibrant and full of youthful energy that gives a real hope for the future of Albania. I climbed up the pyramid which I think is an art venue and wandered back to the hotel as the evening began to draw in. There is a bunker museum here which is worth reading up about. I didn’t have time to visit but I wish I had.

    We had a lovely last night dinner together and it will be really sad to finish this incredible holiday tomorrow.
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    Trip end
    September 22, 2025