Stanley, Falkland Islands

This morning, I was up early to do my run, while my laundry was on. Then I made a quick trip to change machines, while picking up a cappuccino for me and an americano for Lindsay. With time to shower, change and fold laundry before our breakdfast, the day was off to a great start. The port was closed until 9:00 a.m., when our captain was able to talk port authorities into allowing us to tender to shore. Apparently, this ship (being brand new and with special design features) can disembark safely with winds up to 50 knots (as we did yesterday). There is some standard that stops boarding and disembarking at 30 knots. We were able to safely get ashore.

Once on land, we boarded a minivan for a 25 minute drive across the island from the capital. Len, our driver and 5th generation Falkland Islander, provided a narrative of the geological features (rock floes), history and general knowledge, on our way to Bluff Cove Lagoon, a working sheep and cattle farm on the opposite coast from the harbour. The family who own the land, run this tour where cruisers come to walk among the gentoo penguins, seals and birds beside the lagoon and onto the beach.

This property sits majestically perched on the coasts with rolling hills, stone runs and diddle dee berry bushes (Empetrum rubrum). When we arrived, the wind was up again, which had three major effects. On the plus side, were the spectacular rolling waves and windswept beaches to marvel at. On the downside, the penguins, seals, sheep and cattle were hunkering down or outright hiding; and of course the discomfort from Antarctic seaside fresh gale winds!

Luckily, besides running the farm and rookery tours, the family also runs a shop, a small museum and a cafe! Needless to say, these three venue (with the added convenience of loos) were very popular for our two hour visit. The wonderful cafe supplied each passenger with tea, coffee or hot chocolate; and the choice of two sweets from their incredible selection of homemade delights. I chose the fresh baked scone with cream and diddle dee berry jam and lemon drizzle cake. After savouring these delicious confections for as long as politely possible, I perused the merchandise in the shop (keeping in mind the limited space in my carryon luggage) and finally hung out in the museum, until Len returned to whisk us back to town.

Stanley is a lovely harbour town, that our Expedition Leader says is more british than Britain. The colourful homes cascade down the bank to the shore. The pubs (which we couldn’t visit as they close at 2:00) are plentiful for such a quaint town. I enjoyed a pint of locally brewed stout with a plate of fish and chips with Lindsay, Giles and Dan at a cafe, before boarding a zodiac back to the ship across the much calmer harbour.

We spent a nice few hours with fellow passengers at the Patio Bar, that for the first time actually had people sitting outside. The captain has positioned the ship so this aft located venue was in the lee of the wind, while the sun and outdoor heaters made it comfortable enough to enjoy some conversation and blueberry tea! With the daily briefing and long leisurely dinner to complete the day, we were tucked up in bed by a reasonable 9:30!Les mer