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  • Dia 54

    Cat Ba day 2

    3 de maio, Vietnã ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Today started off SO well. Had a bit of a lie in, had free breakfast at the hotel. Was the best free breakfast thus far, had chocolate banana pancake, followed by yogurt and fruit, toast and tea! Then we got to see the puppy that sits outside the hotel, and sat and cuddled with him while we decided what to do.
    It rained so much this morning and there was a huge thunder and lightning storms again in the early hours of the morning, so we decided just to go to a coffee shop, catch up on admin and just have the morning to chill. This is when I was starting to feel a little unwell.
    After a couple hours in the coffee shop, we wandered back to the hotel while umming and ahhing whether to go for a walk in the national park or not. We decided against it as we both weren't feeling that great. I had a nap while Kath went for a walk, then all went a bit downhill from there.
    I was horribly ill for all of 20 minutes, then spent the rest of the afternoon in bed feeling awful. Kath was my nurse and went out to get me electrolyte drinks, sweet and medicine. I knew I was properly ill as I'd lost my appetite completely, so Kath went out for dinner on her own while I felt sorry for myself.
    We are hoping to head to Hanoi tomorrow but will see how I feel in the morning!
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  • Dia 53

    Cat Ba day 1 / Lan Ha Bay

    2 de maio, Vietnã ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Today we ventured to Lan Ha Bay, the little sibling of the famous Ha Long bay. We decided not to do the latter as we had seen photos of how crowded the stops are and heard it was expensive if you wanted a nice cruise. Instead we to opted to explore Lan Ha Bay, which was once part of Ha Long bay, it's only now divided by territory, so it shares the exact same geological features, just on a smaller scale. Lan Ha Bay has nearly 400 islands and islets, whereas Ha Long has 1500+. Ha Long was declared a world heritage site in 1994 so has been bombarded with tour boats ever since, whereas Lan Ha is still used by locals and fishing communities so us much less crowded and cheaper!
    Our boat set off just after 9. There were just 30 of us on the boat, the lower floor had tables to eat around and the upper two decks had an array of seating, deckchairs at the top and comfy seats on the second floor. So there was more than enough room for all of us, and I didn't feel crowded which was nice.
    No sooner than sailing for 10 minutes, we were surrounded by striking limestone rocks jutting out for the ocean, covered in lush greenery and trees. Big brown rock eagles circled the many islands, with small fishing boats trawling alongside us and locals collecting snails on small beaches islands provided. It was pretty magical, and reminded me a little of Milford sound in New Zealand. Unfortunately it was overcast so the sky was quite grey and moody, but it made it very atmospheric. We'd also be complaining about the heat during the heatwave so felt wrong to complain about being slightly cold after being so hot for so long!
    We cruised for about an hour and a half before we docked and hopped onto land then into kayaks. Not gonna name names but one of us was definitely more adept than the other at kayaking, and did a lot of the directing and paddling 😉 we paddled down stream from the boat, through a cave into a huge sea lagoon surrounded by gorgeous green cliffs. Apparently there's an endangered species of monkey called the Cat Ba langur that lives in the area, so we kept our eyes peeled, scanning the trees, but unfortunately didn't see any. The lagoon was so peaceful, and the scenery absolutely stunning. I could've bobbed around for hours taking in the sounds and sights. We headed back after a nice long loop of the lagoon. Paddling upstream back to the boat was significantly harder than on the way there, but once aboard, we were promised the next stop was lunch!
    As the captain took us somewhere nice to eat, the skies grew more and more grey until it absolutely chucked it down. We ate our buffet in the shelter of the downstairs floor as the heavens opened up and thunder echoed around the bay.
    We got an hour after food to swim and relax. The rain was absolutely freezing, but once you jumped into the water it was pleasantly warm. It took Kath a little while to build up the courage to jump in, so her lips were blue and shivering before she even started swimming. I did really want to push her in but I don't think she would've ever forgiven me. It was very relaxing swimming in the rain, and I did my best not to look down as the water was very murky, and I get scared swimming in deep water if I think about it too much!
    The rain continued to hammer down, but conveniently stopped when we arrived at our next destination. A small fish farm where schools of fish are bred to sell to Cat Ba island and the mainland for consumption. The farm was made up of thin wooden planks crossing over to make small pens where nets held groups of different fish. Some of the fish were so big and beautiful, was quite sad to see them contained to such small spaces, but interesting to see how the locals lived and made money.
    We boarded back on the boat and sailed over to our last stop, where the captain dropped the anchor with a view of 'monkey island'. Just an island where a group of monkeys live, but it was nice to watch them in the distance as they ran across the sand.
    On the way back to the port, we passed through a fishing village made up of hundreds of the fish farms like the one we had visited. Over 200 families live on these farms, with ferries taking kids to local schools. We saw a surprising amount of dogs and cats too sauntering about on the floating wooden islands. Definitely a completely different way of life!
    We got back to our hotel just after 5, and with sunset approaching, there weren't a lot of options for evening activities other than eating and drinking on the island.
    There is a very cute puppy who sits outside the hotel, his back leg looks broken and doesn't use it, but greeted us with the happiest tail wag and licked every bit of salt off our legs.
    We want to explore the national park on the island tomorrow, but the weather isn't predicted to be very good, so we held off on booking a trekking tour, with the hopes it may clear up.
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  • Dia 52

    Ninh Bihn ➡️ Cat Ba

    1 de maio, Vietnã ⋅ 🌬 29 °C

    I didn't get a chance to eat my free breakfast this morning as no sooner than the lady put my pineapple pancakes on the table, our car arrived. Our hostel host very kindly bagged it up for me, but then left in the car when we hopped out to grab the bus :(
    The bus was about 4 hours to the port where we hopped on a shabby little ferry for a short crossing over to Cat Ba island (largest island in Vietnam).
    It's not a super beachy island, but very green. We passed lots of very cute water buffalo, which Kath feels the need to point out EVERYtime we see one, and quite a few small fishing ports.
    Luckily the ground floor of our hostel was a vegan restaurant, so wasn't a hassle to find food when we arrived which made very happy. There was also a hotel cat lounging in the lobby which made Kath very happy.
    In the afternoon, we got a little electric cart over to one of the small beaches to have a swim, and sat on the beach reading until the wind picked up so much we got a face full of sand.
    It's a bit of a resort feel on the island which I didn't expect, in the fact everywhere we looked to eat and drink was just full of tourists. Seems a lot to do in the day, but not of night life, which to be fair we wouldn't be immersing ourselves in greatly anyway aha. We grabbed some drinks at a bar along the seafront and then some food along from our hostel. We've booked a tour of Lan Ha Bay tomorrow so early start (again).
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  • Dia 51

    Ninh Binh day 3

    30 de abril, Vietnã ⋅ ☀️ 40 °C

    Very happy with the decision to move hostel, this one is much nicer, is ran by a whole family including the grandparents. I had banana pancakes cooked by grandma for breakfast.
    Today we did a tour of a few of the cultural sites in Ninh Binh in the area north of us, Trang An. Our hostel is situated down a dirt track 250m off the main road so the bus picking us up wouldn't down. When it arrived, the hostel offered to drive us up the track on bikes. I happily hopped aboard to save the walk but Kath refused, and I couldn't help but laugh as she walked behind and I zoomed away.
    Our first stop was, Hoa Lu ancient capital, which was the first capital of Vietnam. It was chosen for capital as the surrounding mountains offered protection, and the rivers allowed trade to pass through. Despite this, the era last short lived (968-1010), before the capital was moved further north to Hanoi.
    The actual ancient citadel no longer exists, so the site is historically cultural, but there wasn't a lot to show for it. The main attractions were two temples dedicated to kings which weren't built until the 17th century, and an 11th century small pagoda, whose view behind it was more impressive than the site as a whole, but still interesting to learn a little history.
    The second stop was contrastingly different to the first in the fact it was very modern, most of it was built between 2003-10. Bai Dinh temple is the largest complex of Buddhist temples in Vietnam, it's also become a popular site for Buddhist pilgrimages from across Vietnam.
    The original old Bai Dinh Pagoda, is a very small temple under a mountain dating back to the 11th century.
    But the most impressive part of the complex was a winding corridor displaying 500 stone Arhat statues (a follower of Buddha who has gained spiritual enlightenment) with over 10,000 smaller golden Buddha statues in small glass cases set into the walls behind them. The stone statues were pulling different facial expressions and poses, and had shiny knees, toes hands, bellies etc... from people touching them as they walked past. Some statues were accompanied by small animals who had worn heads or noses from being constantly pet.
    This corridor took us up 200 steps up to the darma hall, a grand dark wood room embellished with gold, displaying a huge golden Buddha in the centre that stood 10 meters tall and weighed over 100 tons. He was accompanied by two 7 meter golden statues, then eight wooden Vajrapani protector statues lined the wall, which was adorned by 100's more tiny Buddha's. The hall was mesmerising-ly beautiful, for sure the most impressive one I've seen since leaving Thailand.
    There was also a bell tower, another hall with a different gold buddha, and some decorated stone gates. I think there was quite a few areas of the complex we didn't see, but we were on a time schedule, it was also sweltering hot (again) so keeping walking to a minimum was ideal.
    After lunch, our last stop of the day was Trang An boat tour. Despite being accompanied by hundreds of other boats, the 2 hour trip was very peaceful. We followed the river as it snaked down the valley, through caves and past islands, with mountains towering either side of us. We passed through three caves, the longest stretching out 300m and made two stops at mountainside temples.
    There was 4 of us on the boat, and our driver was quite an old woman, but boy she could paddle. There were smaller plastic paddles that we could use, but I think we were more of a hindrance than a help to her.
    Today was a national holiday, reunification day, when the North Vietnamese and Viet Cong soldiers captured Ho Chi Minh city, ending the cold war (1975). Thus we thought there'd be something happening in the centre, so we ventured back into Trang An. There was a huge stage lit up infront of a pagoda sat on the water, with flashing lights and crowds lining up on either side of the river, and even boats of people spectating from the water. We waited 45 minutes only to find out the show was celebrating 10 years since the area was awarded world heritage status. It was fun, some singing and dancing (all in Vietnamese). Did consider hanging around til the end in hope of fireworks, but it was so packed, we didn't want to get swept away in the crowds and I was hungry haha. We didn't end up finding food in Trang An so headed back to the spot in Tam Coc we found nice beer at last night and got some spring rolls for tea (best spring rolls of the trip so faaar!).
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  • Dia 50

    Ninh Binh day 2

    29 de abril, Vietnã ⋅ ☀️ 39 °C

    We seemed to have picked our first dud accommodation. The room is not the nicest, but the killer is the beds are absolutely rock solid, so neither of us got the best night sleep. It's on £15 a night, so we decided to move a day earlier to a new accommodation for the sake of our backs.
    The new place was only 10 minutes down the road, but it was a long 10 minutes there with heavy rucksacks on our backs and bags balancing in front baskets on our bikes. But we made it!
    Checked into our new place, we cycled 20 minutes to the basepoint of a famous viewpoint. We started the climb before 9, but that evidently wasn't early enough as it was already over 30° by then! The ascent was only 500 steps but was an absolute killer, some of these steps were deep, and I needed lots of rest stops to make it all the way up. I don't think I've ever been so sweaty.
    The view at the top was worth it though! One side you could see the mountain path of the smaller viewpoint with a lotus pond garden and rice fields in the background. The other side was lush green mountains intersected by a valley and river with tiny boats meandering down. The very top had 20m long concrete dragon you had to scrabble up to, and you could make your way along by clinging on to his spines and hopping over rocks. Making your way along the dragon wasn't a very popular path (it was a little sketchy) so when I reached his tail, I had the whole viewpoint to myself!
    In need of some sort of energy, we climbed back down and bought some coconuts at a cafe at the base, before exploring two very underwhelming caves which the viewpoint is named after! (Mua caves). More excitingly, there was a very beautiful lotus field with bridges and platforms across which was more fun to look round, even though the lotus weren't in bloom, the field (more of a pond) was still gorgeous.
    We dropped our trusty bikes back at the rental, before grabbing lunch and checking in properly to our new (much nicer) accommodation. Once lying down in aircon, it's vert hard to muster up the energy to go out into the wall of heat waiting outside. But we did! (after a little nap). This time with even creakier pedal bikes, courtesy of the hostel, we ventured to another coffee spot in the middle of nowhere, and had the whole place to our selves!
    There were lots of birds in this area, so Kath watched some sort of cranes circle the rice fields while I sat and wrote on this app haha. Cycling here we spotted what we now know is a coucal or crow pheasant. It flew right in front of us carrying a fish. It's got the body of a large crow but with chocolate brown wings, a long black tail and red eyes, quite a cool bird.
    After bird watching and trying to locate where a particular dog was barking from (the nose was echoing across the whole valley) we headed back before it went dark. Spotted another kingfisher, this time happily sat on a wire. He was pretty close but I still failed to get a decent photo.
    Later on, we found a place that did local craft beer and cider which we were both very happy about. My beer was by Pasteur street, which is a brewery based in Ho Chin Min. I tried a passion fruit wheat beer and Jasmine IPA, both were very delicious. After great drinks we then had very disappointing food. So disappointing, it didn't even get a feature on my 20 photo selection of the day. We went to a vegetarian place that did Vietnamese and western food, and on a whim I decided to get a pizza... It was not a good pizza. Serves me right for ordering western food!
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  • Dia 49

    Ninh Binh day 1

    28 de abril, Vietnã ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    We arrived into Ninh Binh at 5am and made our way to the hostel. Luckily a guest checked out as we were arriving so we only had to wait an hour before we could get some sleep.
    Ninh Binh is the province we're in but the town where we, and most of the tourists stay is called Tam Coc.
    Despite being far up north, there's still a heatwave going on so it's very hot. Determined to make the most of the day though, we hired bikes after lunch to explore the area. Less than a 10 minute cycle out of town, and you're in the middle of planes of rice fields surrounded by small steep sided mountains and jagged rock pinacals. It's pretty spectacular.
    The area has the same topography as the famous Ha Long bay, but on land! The rocks weren't formed by anything major, just by erosion from wind and rain millions of year ago according to google. The area we're in (spanning around 60km2) was actually named a world heritage site 10 years ago for its astounding natural beauty and culture.

    The shop we hired our bike from mainly rented out mountain bikes, but we wanted baskets in the front to put our stuff in, so got some cute little city bikes. Was probably the wrong decision as some of the 'roads' we cycled down were BUMPY, and the bike had zero suspension 😅
    We sought refuge from the sun in a cafe overlooking the rice fields, then ventured to a 'farm' with a water buffalo tied up outside and lots of baby ducklings in a small cage :( We didn't stop there for long, and instead cycled to another farm situated at the end of a very long bumpy dirt road, where some very happy ducks were waiting for us. The ducks were off swimming minding their own business before the lady who ran the place shouted something in Vietnamese. They all quacked in almost unison and came swimming hurriedly over, making an almighty ratchet, which was very entertaining.
    We then cycled over to a nearby pagoda built underneath a mountain. Up into the mountain, the path led through a cave where a shrine was situated, then out the other side and up some stairs the temple continued.
    On our way back into town a kingfisher flew past, right in front of us. It wasn't the usual flash of blue, so it was the first time I've seen one properly; they're very cute little birds.
    Absolutely exhausted from cycling and stair climbing in the heat we found somewhere with cheap beer, then later some yummy vegan food.
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  • Dia 48

    Hue / ➡️ Ninh Binh

    27 de abril, Vietnã ⋅ ☀️ 41 °C

    We're only staying one night in Hue, so had to get up early and pack up. We got to the Imperial city gates at 8.30 hoping to beat the midday heat and some of the crowds, but turns out everyone else has the same idea. Plus there were loads of school trips, which I hadn't seen anywhere else before! All the kids are so friendly though, they see you're a westerner and wave and say hello. Some of the older kids want to practice their English so come up and ask questions, which is endearing (and their English is 1000x better than my Vietnamese will ever be).
    The Imperial city is a walled compound encompassed within the citadel of the city of Hue. It was the capital of Vietnam during the Nguyễn dynasty, the last Vietnamese dynasty, whose 143-year rule ended after the end of the second world war. Some of the emperors during this era assended the throne as young as 6-years-old!
    The palace complex was constructed in 1803, based on Beijing's 'Forbidden city'. The site was damaged heavily by French attacks and then again during conflict with the US. At one point, Viet Cong soldiers occupied half of the citadel with the US in the other. After this battle, only 10 of 160 buildings remained. In 1993 the area was named a UNSECO world heritage site so some of the buildings have been reconstructed.
    The gardens were beautiful, and a mix of ruins along with old and new buildings made the site really interesting to look at. We wandered around longer than expected (3hrs with sit down breaks for the heat), and I think there were still areas we didn't fully explore, but hot and hungry we went to find lunch.
    In the afternoon we went to a pagoda the hostel had circled on the map, which was a little disappointing as there wasn't a lot there. There are three big tombs of old kings here we really wanted to see, but they were a little far out. Looking at photos online the sites didn't have any shade, which is something we didn't really want to negotiate in 40° heat.
    When we got back to the hostel, they very kindly let us shower which was a lifesaver before hopping on an 11-hour night bus! We should arrive at our next destination, Ninh Binh, around 5am tomorrow morning.
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  • Dia 47

    Hoi An ➡️ Hue

    26 de abril, Vietnã ⋅ ☀️ 40 °C

    At some point during the three weeks Kath is here, we really wanted to do a first class train journey for a bit of luxury and of course stunning views. We then looked at the prices, and decided against it 😅 we did however book a train from Hoi An through our hostel to Hue, second class and only 4 hours. I asked our host to book us on the right side so we'd get a coastal view, but we ended up on the left! :( Honestly other than that, I couldn't fault the homestay we had in Hoi An, the couple that ran it were so lovely and helpful, our room was great, fab location and cute puppy!
    The train ride was interesting... Pretty noisy, very hot as the aircon was temperamental, and lots of stops and starts. We only got glimpses of the gorgeous coastline through cracks between drawn curtains, as all the locals close them to avoid the sun. Safe to say after that trip we'll stick to our buses haha.
    We arrived in Hue early afternoon, and it was absolutely boiling!
    Later on, we ventured to an old abandoned waterpark that was shut down in 2004 due to financial issues, but in the last 5 years has become an unofficial tourist attraction. Officially you're not meant to go in, but everybody does. We were dropped off by a closed off road and walked 15 mins up the road and along a path hugging a big lake. As we were walking, a huge pier like structure on the water came into view, a head of a dragon at the top and spines and claws spread out, surrounding it. Inside, the walls were covered in graffiti, was a bit dirty and smelly, but expected for a 20 year old abandoned building! The dragon had two floors, and at the top you could look out over the lake through it's mouth.
    We crossed the other side of the bridge into the jungle/forest to find three waterslides and a few pools. It was golden hour just before sunset, so the whole area looked stunning. Kath found the whole place a bit spooky but it bought it was really cool. I wanted to climb all the way up one of the slides, but I was in birks, which did not lend themselves to walking on slippy plastic. The park is due to be completely closed and demolished later this year, with some parts already destroyed, so we weren't sure if there were other areas to see.
    Content with what we saw, we grabbed some beers from a lady on the path with a cooler on the back of a motorbike, monopilsing on the tourists in the area, and watched the sun disappear behinds clouds for another less than spectacular sunset.
    In the evening, it absolutely chucked it down for all of 40 minutes, we sat on a street corner in a bar overlooking the roads as people ran for cover, and motorcyclists impressed us with how many people they could fit under one poncho.
    We grabbed some very delicious food, before heading back to the hostel for an early night as we wanted to try to beat the heat tomorrow morning.
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  • Dia 46

    Hoi An day 4 / Da Nang

    25 de abril, Vietnã ⋅ ⛅ 37 °C

    We've loved our homestay and Hoi An so much, we decided to do a day trip to Da Nang instead of staying there a night. There's a famous park called Ba Na hills which has a very famous Buddha hands bridge which is all over Instagram. We wanted to go, but the entrance fee alone to the park was £60 each! So we opted for a cheaper tour to a place called monkey and marble mountain.
    At monkey mountain there was a pagoda surrounded by beautiful gardens, the tallest lady Buddha in all of south East Asia, and most exciting for me, monkeys! They were so cute, jumping between trees, wresting in the garden and one was sat astutely on the bin, claiming any goodies that people dropped in. Some tourists were getting way too comfortable around them, and I saw a few monkeys take a couple of well deserved swipes at those annoying people.
    We then visited marble village which was just a big selection of marble statues, then a shop with lady's following you around, trying to get you to buy something. Marble mountain was better, we first descended into 'hell', a cave full of cool statues and shrines illustrating the 18 levels of hell. Our tour guide Micheal was very animated, and brought the cave to life for us. We then ascended 250 stairs up to 'heaven'. Along the way there were some nice arches, we passed through heaven's gate, visited a nice view point but my favourite of the whole trip was Hoa Nghiem Cave. It was a large cave with small openings at the top, the sunlight poured through the gaps in huge beams, looking almost like a waterfall or a spotlight, depending on how imaginative you are.
    In the afternoon, back in Hoi An, we hopped on the bikes again, this time taking a beautiful detour through the rice fields to a lovely hidden away cafe. It had loungers and cushioned chairs sheltered under umbrellas looking out over the fields of already harvested rice. There was water buffalo grazing in the distance, two of which escaped their ropes and came to munch on the green weeds right next to where we were sitting. There were also lizards which sparkled gold in the sun, sunbathing and running on top of the dead grass, one even popped his head up under my leg!
    We could've stayed there for hours on end but we headed back before it got dark. Unfortunately I haven't really seen any spectacular sunsets since being away, Thailand and Laos were too smokey and the sun in Vietnam seems to dip behind a bank of clouds most nights before setting. Tonight was no different, but the evening light was still lovely.
    We wandered into town and did some shopping of things we'd been eyeing up the previous three nights. Kath got a north face bag and patagonia bag, then I got some thin trousers, a shirt and a silver necklace ( I lost my nice one:( ).
    For dinner we got a set menu of local dishes including Hoi An speciality white rose dumplings and cao lau noodles. The dishes were nice but a few lacked flavour, but nothing a bit of soy sauce and chilli couldn't fix.
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  • Dia 45

    Hoi An day 3

    24 de abril, Vietnã ⋅ ⛅ 36 °C

    This morning we went on a cooking class. I was advised by our host not to eat breakfast and I'm so glad I didn't as we made so much food! Unlike my other cooking class, a lot of the prep work was done for us, we mainly added seasoning, herbs, garlic & ginger and that sort of thing and cooked it all up. We assembled and deep fried spring rolls, chopped up a papaya salad (made with green papaya so not super sweet), cooked up a tofu and aubergine claypot and fried a yummy tofu and bean sprouts Vietnamese pancake. Was all delicious, star of the show for me was the spring rolls. We rolled them up in a mesh like rice paper which I hadn't seen before, but it made then super duper crispy!
    Full to the brim, we were whisked away to the nearby river and adorned a Nón lá (hat) and boarded tiny circular boats called coconut boats. Vietnamese fit up to 8 people in one, but we were pretty content just us two and our lovely driver. We floated through palm fronds, stopping round one of them to do a spot of old fashioning crabbing. We successfully got three, one of which escaped into our boat! The smaller ones had bright orange claws, and the larger ones purple. After releasing our crabby friends back into the water, we bobbed back down to the van, with some drivers vigorously spinning their boats. We asked the lady not to do the same for us haha.
    In the afternoon we ventured back to our favourite cafe, and then used bikes from the hostel to cycle to the beach for a quick dip in the sea!
    Found some craft beer in the evening, from only an hour up the road, based in Da Nang. Surprisingly it was pretty much the same price as home! £4 for 400ml glass, but it was very tasty. We didn't venture far from our homestay and went for dinner in a restaurant opposite the bar we were in. Was quite a 'fancy' place, but still only cost us £12 for a starter, two mains and a side!
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