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Via di Francesco
  • Carmel Carlsen
Jun – Jul 2024

Via di Francesco

Triggered by some insirational pilgrims, a chance meeting in Siena with a lovely couple from Townsville, a great admiration for Saint Francis, and an unexpected affinity with the Tau; I decided to walk the Way of Saint Francis, from Rome to Assisi. Read more
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  • Trip start
    June 14, 2024
    Carmel CarlsenVia di FrancescoCarmel Carlsen
    22682Castle of the Holy Angel244I think this is a fascist building. The date is 1940, and it looks harsh!22My first waymarker5

    Day 1: Rome to Monte Sacro

    June 14, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    I completed the first stage of the Via di Francesco (VdF) today. It wasn't a long walk (17.86 km). I started from the obelisk in the centre of Saint Peter's Square (I ducked into the Vatican office to get a stamp first: without my backpack). I was really lucky as there was an American priest there explaining the significance of the stone to a small group, and when he seemed to wind down, I asked him to give me a blessing for my pilgrimage - which, of course, he did; a very nice one too. The Way followed the river for quite some time, and as you can imagine, it was along sealed surfaces and alongside some quite busy roads. It was hot and horrible, but there were some nice sections of shade, especially toward the end, as it was along a bike path. I was a little nervous as there is no app for this pilgrimage, and I had to download the gpx files to my phone, and I'm simply following them. I didn't see any waymarkers until 13 km in, and I wasn't sure they were for the VdF until I was 16 km in!Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia di FrancescoCarmel Carlsen
    Aniene river
    2Santiago Angelu Custodi church at Monte SacroThe golden light is from the stained glass windowsPonte NomentanoA building near the BasilicaMausoleum di ConstanzaWalking down to the crypt

    Day 2: Monte Sacro rest (dill) day

    June 15, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Another hot day, but, at least, I wasn't walking with my backpack. I didn't need a rest day, but I totally mucked up my accommodation for the next few days of the VdF when I was in Rome and the hotel I'm in now would not change the dates I'd booked so I decided to spend two days here. I really needed to get out of Rome. I spent the day sorting out my stuff and taking a look around. I visited the mausoleum of Saint Constanza - it was well worth the visit as it has some of the best ceiling work I have ever seen and gate crashed a wedding as I went to check out the crypt of Saint Agnes at the Basilica of Saint Agnes.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia di FrancescoCarmel Carlsen
    22222You can see why they trim them

    Day 3: Monte Sacro to Monterotondo

    June 16, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    It was a lovely walk today (20.31 km) - once I'd left the fringes of Rome. Technically, Monte Sacro is within the Rome metropolitan area. I've finally worked out the distances for this pilgrimage, and it's 249 km from Rome to Assisi and another 190 km from Assisi to La Verna (if I decide to go that far; I'll see how I feel when I get to Assisi). Today, I encountered two Italian pilgrims going the same way I am, and I passed, separately, two pilgrims heading for Rome. Again, it was hot and sweaty, and I'm not saying I like it, but I might be getting used to it (like the road walking). At least the distances aren't long, and the earlier I start, the more time I have before it gets really hot.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia di FrancescoCarmel Carlsen
    244226This is an old Roman site.2Fresco in Saint Antonio's church in Ponticelli di Scandriglia

    Day 4: Montertondo to Ponticelli di Scan

    June 17, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    I left Montertondo at 6:30 a.m. because the walk was long (31.82 km), and the forecast was for 32°. I know it was 31° at 2 p.m. (perhaps I shouldn't have checked), and I still had 3 more hours of walking to do - the heat really slows down my pace! The scenery today was fabulous, and I would have loved every minute of it, except for the heat. Honestly, there were times when I doubted my ability to make it to Ponticelli di Scandriglia - it really was a "one foot in front of another" day. I saw two separate pilgrim couples as I was walking, the second couple was from the Netherlands, I have a Slavic pilgrim staying with me in my accommodation and I met a French and German pilgrim at the bar tonight - all going to Rome. As it's Monday, the restaurant is closed; luckily, I can get a meal at the bar - I'm so grateful. I simply do not have the energy to cook! I don't even feel like eating, but I know I have to.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia di FrancescoCarmel Carlsen
    4Nerola
    Ponticelli di Scandriglia and Nerola in the distance62Poggio MoianoMonteleone Sabino churchRoman ruins "Trebula Mutuesca"1442Poggio San Lorenzo

    Day 5: Ponticelli di Scandriglia to Pogg

    June 18, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    I left at 6:10 a.m. in an attempt to beat the heat as 36° was forecast for today. The good news is that it was 33° when I finished my walk (21.70 km), and I didn't really get drenched in sweat until the last, now familiar, steep climb into Poggio San Lorenzo, my destination, under the blazing sun. The walk today was brilliant, and there was a lot of shade - absolute heaven. The terrain here in Lazio is hill, upon hill - all which seem to have a village or town on top. This means that there are a lot of descents and ascents - which is fine as the Way, so far, is going through a lot of woodland and is beautiful. Oh, and before I forget; the waymarkers are terrific. I know that if I haven't seen one in a while, I must be off track - which happened yesterday (of course).Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia di FrancescoCarmel Carlsen
    2Very Aussie2Ponte "Sambuco"4A goat on the path18Turano River624Velino RiverIn the Cathedral: Santa Maria AssuntaReally great marble work in the Cathedral

    Day 6: Poggio San Lorenzo to Rieti

    June 19, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    There were so many great things about the walk (23.74 km) today: I was able to leave early (around 6:20 a.m.) in an attempt to beat the heat (the forecast was for 32°); the Way was a good ratio of sealed and unsealed walking - through a lot of trees (my favourite) and after the initial steep climb and descent it was along fairly flat terrain; the clouds came over about 10 o'clock which really made the day feel so much cooler (it was 29° at midday and I was drinking coffee outside and not even breaking a sweat); and there was no steep climb into Rieti! I am very grateful for a wonderful walk today.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia di FrancescoCarmel Carlsen
    Saint Francis statue at Rieti
    Rieti city wallsHalf the road was gone!2The Forest Sanctuary26I had to walk down this path - it was a little hairyCantalice42Approaching Boggio Bustone

    Day 7: Rieti to Boggio Bustone

    June 20, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    The good news for me was that the temperature only reached 32° by the time I got to my accommodation. The other really good news about the heat is that my things dry very quickly. I'm sharing a house tonight with Wendy from Holland - of course, she is walking to Rome. Boggio Bustone is perched on a mountain side (825m). If it wasn't for the heat haze, I think I would be able to see Rieti; the valley is spread out below me. The walk today (20.13 km) was incredibly picturesque; I took so many photos. I felt a strong connection with Saint Francis today as I was able to visit and walk through Santuario della Foresta. It was serene and peaceful, and you could really imagine the monks working and praying there in days gone by. Our host is bringing us dinner tonight; I am very grateful as I'd rather stay in the cool house than wander around anywhere.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia di FrancescoCarmel Carlsen
    The Franciscan convent at Boggio Bustone2The path that kept disappearingAl Foggio6Pam and PaulLabbro4My first sight of Lake Piediluco

    Day 8: Boggio Bustone to Piediluco

    June 21, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    I know you're probably sick of me talking about the heat - I can't help it; it's really having a high impact on me (34° today). The walk today (22.5 km) was, as I'm coming to expect, tree lined, mountainous, and offering views (I'd be able to show you if not for the heat haze), that are incredibly far-reaching. During the walk, I needed to climb up a meadow where the path kept disappearing. I was scratched, bleeding, and covered in plant life, so I stopped to clear the debris off me, only to be swamped by biting flies! After about three minutes of stomping to get them off my legs, I lost my temper and had a little fit, which set off the emergency alarm in my watch (it automatically emails my family)! Not long after that, I came to Al Foggio (a Saint Francis church) and was able to centre myself and feel the calm and peace. On the other side of the mountain (over 1000m), I met a couple of Australians from Adelaide, Pam, and Paul; they started in Florence and are on their way to Rome.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia di FrancescoCarmel Carlsen
    Lake Piediluco
    22The Sanctuary of Saint Francis486"Crazy things are the only things you never regret"22

    Day 9: Piediluco- rest day

    June 22, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    I woke this morning to a beautiful blue sky and, as a real bonus, I felt cool! What bliss! I've now arrived in Umbria, which I've heard wonderful things about, and I can't wait to see more of the region. Piediluco is the site of the national rowing centre, and I saw some serious rowing in action today. The town is quite small and centred around the lake. It's also a holiday destination with boats, fishing and swimming. There are ducks and geese in the park on the shoreline, and the community has put a lot of effort into making the narrow lane ways attractive. I have had a wonderfully relaxing day, and I'm ready to set off tomorrow with anticipation.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia di FrancescoCarmel Carlsen
    Piediluco
    2426My first Swan in Italy4Pre water release2Post water release24My Camino Angel2Saint Maria Assunta in ArroneNera river5Forentillo

    Day 10: Piediluco to Ferentillo

    June 23, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    It was another terrific day of walking (24.68 km) today. It started with blue skies, a nice cool morning, then the clouds came over and there was a light rain for a few hours - my perfect walking weather. I'd left around 7 a.m. as I wanted to play tourist and visit Cascata delle Marmore (a series of cascading falls engineered by the ancient Romans). It was well worth seeing. They make quite a show of it: the water flows constantly through the main falls and then at 10 a.m. on a Sunday (usually 11 a.m. every other day) they perform what they call a "drop" and release an ever increasing amount of water over the falls until it comes down like a torrent! It was spectacular! Almost all of the Way followed the Greenway del Nera (a river) - just lovely. Then I experienced a Camino Angel; unfortunately, I managed to lose one of my rubber pole stoppers down a drain at the Cascata and within five km of leaving the falls, I encountered a German pilgrim (Kirsten), going to Rome, who had a spare rubber " just for you". I was so grateful, I hate the clack, clack, clack of the pole on the rocks and road. In return , I promised him that I would visit a nun in La Verna; Angela - for whom he has great affection. The walking was mostly flat after the climb down for the falls, but the landscape is surrounded by mountains and very appealing. My second pilgrimage magic happened at Ferentillo; I'd just moved away from the locked church door when the priest arrived and was able to stamp my credential! What an awesome day!Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia di FrancescoCarmel Carlsen
    3
    1211Sensati3Sensati4Sensati2222In the Franciscan Convent24The path is closed!I could have walked across here, but the path was closed

    Day 11: Ferentillo to Spoleto

    June 24, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today, I moved from the Valnerina Valley to the Spoletan Valley. That meant crossing the Apennine mountains and, as the VdF shows me every day so far; it was wonderful walking, not easy, but a real joy to move through. The first 10 km continued along the Greenway del Nera and then the rest of the walk (29.28 km) was a big climb (from 300m to 950m) up the mountains, followed by a visit to a Franciscan Convent (The Sanctuary of Saint Francis) and then a descent into Spoleto. The big surprise came as I was about to enter Spoleto; the track was closed (literally, a big, high boarded fence I could not climb, and the temporary route totally bypasses the town! I had to reroute a way into town, and I still have to work out the path I'll be taking tomorrow! What a day - I'm exhausted, but sipping an Aperol spritz, which is putting a glow on everything. My Camino magic today was a place called Sensati - it was a rest area, almost at the top of the mountain, that has been made to delight - and it does. Finally, I got rained upon three times; the last time, I broke out the Great Pumpkin when I heard thunder, but I didn't really need it.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia di FrancescoCarmel Carlsen
    The city walls at Spoleto
    2Basilica Saint Ponziano2Basilica Saint Salvatore (photo taken through glass)2Eggi22Saint Caterina d'Alessandria2Saint Michael Arch Angel church at Eggi4Egging from above46The view from my window tonight

    Day 12: Spoleto to Poreta

    June 25, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    I bit the bullet and decided to stick with the path for which I have a digital map. If I put all my trust in the signs on the "temporary" track, what happens if they run out and if I miss one? Where on earth, literally, would I end up? I was lucky enough to see the two Italian pilgrims I saw on Day 2 at breakfast this morning, and, even better, I saw them on the Way three times today - they have confirmed for me that I made the right choice. Anyway, it was a shorter walk today (18.63 km), so I took my time and enjoyed the walk and the scenery. There was quite a bit of ups and downs, so I got some really good views of the valley and the surrounding mountains. Tonight, I'm staying in a B&B in an old Villa, and it is lovely.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia di FrancescoCarmel Carlsen
    2In the church at Lenano
    2Eremo Francescano2Trevi112Saint John's Church at Trevi2Convento Francescano San MartinoTorre Villa Fabri2Saint Emiliano, the DuomoSaint Emiliano2The church of Saint Francis museum

    Day 13: Poreta to Trevi

    June 26, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Today, through sheer luck of being in the right place at the right time, I was able to visit the Eremo Francescano or the Franciscan Hermitage of Campello. It is a convent (established in 1926), of just four Sisters (now), on the side of a mountain where, originally hermits, then Franciscan Friers and, so strong oral tradition maintains, Saint Francis himself spent time in the caves there. If you ring their bell, they will welcome you in to show you around and tell you everything you want to know about the place: I actually stood in the caves (with a bat)! It was an experience that touched my heart. No photos, I'm afraid - they ask you not to share the ones you take. The walk was short today (14.51 km), so I arrived in Trevi, a really beautiful medieval town, early. This allowed me to take a really good look around and visit the Church of Saint Francis museum. It has been a very special day and one I will hold within me.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia di FrancescoCarmel Carlsen
    8Sunset from Trevi
    6Convento San Francescano San Martino2Morning light in Trevi2The sun coming up over Convento San Francescano8Trevi as I was leaving2222The Cathedral at Feliciano23Confessional in San Giacomo Church in Feliciano2Approaching Spello

    Day 14: Trevi to Spello

    June 27, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I left before 6:30 a.m. to beat the heat. What I love most about Italy - you can almost always get a coffee early in the morning, and every single tomato you eat tastes delicious and exactly like a tomato should. It wasn't a long walk (21.75 km), and I am very glad that I got to Spello before 2 p.m. Trevi, with the sun shining on it, looked really beautiful as I was leaving, as did the valley (I even saw a hot air balloon in the distance). Today's walk was mostly along sealed surfaces and so different from what I have become used to. On the positive side, it was almost all along the flat - which makes for quicker walking. Today's highlight was being able to congratulate Bernadette and Marian, along with Alex, as they reached Saint Peter's Square - what a thrill. Oh, and I've seen two squirrels in the last two days!Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia di FrancescoCarmel Carlsen
    Saint Andrea church, Spello
    4Saint Anna (Tega) church, Spello2Saint Lorenzo Martrie church, Spello2The entrance gates to AssisiBasilica Saint Clare (Santa Chiara)Basilica di San Francesco (superior)Basilica di San Francesco (inferior)6With a wooden craved statue of Saint Francis

    Day 15: Spello to Assisi

    June 28, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    My step was light, and my heart full of joy as I started the walk today (14.84 km). I dawdled in Spello until 9 a.m. and slowly made my way to Assisi in the heat. I arrived at the city limits just before midday and was greeted by the church bells from all around as I walked in - what a treat. The Cathedral and the tomb of Saint Francis are mind-boggling, but they ask that you don't take photos inside and I've respected that. I collected my testimonium right on 3 p.m. and was lucky enough to share the experience with the two Italian pilgrims whom I've seen off and on along the Way. I've made the decision not to continue onto La Verna as I don't feel up to it physically in this heat, and my body is protesting more and more every day. This pilgrimage has been very special for me, I am grateful to have made it this far, and I'm so glad that I did. I'll chill here (pardon the pun) for a few days and then decide what to do next.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia di FrancescoCarmel Carlsen
    Street artIn the town square2The town squareBasilica di Santa Maria degli AngeliIn Saint Peter's Church2Basilica Saint Clare8Basilica of Saint Francis (upper and lower)22Inside the Saint Francis Basilica complexSaint Clare's BasilicaSaint Rufino cathedral2La Rocca Maggiore1

    Assisi to Florence

    July 6, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    I've spent the last eight days in Assisi. It's a wonderful place that gave me the time I needed to decompress, recentre, and rejuvenate from my walking. Assisi is a genuinely spiritual hub and a town that has been lovingly restored. I delighted in the pink stone that can be found in the roads and buildings - it looks beautiful in the sun. Also, it's a real pleasure to see so many nuns and friers all over the place. There are four saint tombs there: Saint Rufino (his remains are now in Rome), Saint Francis, Saint Clare, and the most recently cannonised saint, Carlo Acutis. I have to be honest, I find all the bodies and remains in so many of the churches I've seen in Italy a little confronting. But, the body of a young man in jeans was the most difficult to accept. I'm now in Florence for the next few days and I will be playing tourist.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia di FrancescoCarmel Carlsen
    8132226On the way to Paris, after Turin

    Florence to Paris

    July 12, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    After spending five days in Florence, I've now moved onto Paris. Florence was impressive, crowed with visitors, and very hot. I was lucky enough to have an apartment within a stones throw of the Duomo. Luckily, the church bells did not ring after 9 p.m. in the evening. Naturally, I did a lot of walking and came to admire Florence very much - there are so many small details to cause wonder. The Duomo is huge and spectacular on the outside and quite modest, in comparison, on the inside. I found that to be the case for most of the churches there. I did a lot of tourist things and only a little bit of shopping. I wasn't brave enough to enter Gucci (Florence's fashion brand) as my clothes let me down. I missed out on climbing the Duomo dome as it was fully booked for the next twenty days, but I was able to climb the tower and got incredible views of the city.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia di FrancescoCarmel Carlsen
    Work continues on Notre Dame
    An Egyptian spoonMy favourite series of paintings in the LouvreFrom India - a fly whisk!22In the CatacombsPart of the Bastille Day paradeThe ceiling in the Galeries Lafeyette department storeIn the Musée l'Orangerie

    Paris to Doha

    July 16, 2024 in Qatar ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    I've just landed in Doha after having spent four full days in Paris. I liked Paris so much more than I thought I would. It was clean, friendly, cool (it rained just a little almost every day), and I was told, "empty" as the locals have all gone on holiday to avoid the Olympics - preparations for which were in full swing; the Seine was lined with grandstands and so many roads were closed around the riverside. Unfortunately, I missed out on visiting a few places I was very keen to see (the Rodin Museum and the Musée d'Orsay), but after a marathon, almost sixteen hours, over two days in the Louvre (where I satisfied myself that I'd seen all there was to see), a walk through the Catacombs, getting to see the Bastille day fireworks from the Eiffel Tower by the river, a visit to the Musée de l'Orangerie, some shopping, lots of walking the streets, and some delicious meals in the cafes and restaurants I feel that I've had at least a taste of what Paris has to offer.Read more

    Trip end
    July 17, 2024
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