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Via di Francesco

June - July 2024
  • Carmel Carlsen
Triggered by some insirational pilgrims, a chance meeting in Siena with a lovely couple from Townsville, a great admiration for Saint Francis, and an unexpected affinity with the Tau; I decided to walk the Way of Saint Francis, from Rome to Assisi. Read more
  • Carmel Carlsen

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  • Italy Italy
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Hiking, Solo travel
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  • 18footprints
  • 34days
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  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia di Francesco
    22682Castle of the Holy Angel244I think this is a fascist building. The date is 1940, and it looks harsh!22My first waymarker5

    Day 1: Rome to Monte Sacro

    June 14, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    I completed the first stage of the Via di Francesco (VdF) today. It wasn't a long walk (17.86 km). I started from the obelisk in the centre of Saint Peter's Square (I ducked into the Vatican office to get a stamp first: without my backpack). I was really lucky as there was an American priest there explaining the significance of the stone to a small group, and when he seemed to wind down, I asked him to give me a blessing for my pilgrimage - which, of course, he did; a very nice one too. The Way followed the river for quite some time, and as you can imagine, it was along sealed surfaces and alongside some quite busy roads. It was hot and horrible, but there were some nice sections of shade, especially toward the end, as it was along a bike path. I was a little nervous as there is no app for this pilgrimage, and I had to download the gpx files to my phone, and I'm simply following them. I didn't see any waymarkers until 13 km in, and I wasn't sure they were for the VdF until I was 16 km in!Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia di Francesco
    Aniene river
    2Santiago Angelu Custodi church at Monte SacroThe golden light is from the stained glass windowsPonte NomentanoA building near the BasilicaMausoleum di ConstanzaWalking down to the crypt

    Day 2: Monte Sacro rest (dill) day

    June 15, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Another hot day, but, at least, I wasn't walking with my backpack. I didn't need a rest day, but I totally mucked up my accommodation for the next few days of the VdF when I was in Rome and the hotel I'm in now would not change the dates I'd booked so I decided to spend two days here. I really needed to get out of Rome. I spent the day sorting out my stuff and taking a look around. I visited the mausoleum of Saint Constanza - it was well worth the visit as it has some of the best ceiling work I have ever seen and gate crashed a wedding as I went to check out the crypt of Saint Agnes at the Basilica of Saint Agnes.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia di Francesco
    22222You can see why they trim them

    Day 3: Monte Sacro to Monterotondo

    June 16, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    It was a lovely walk today (20.31 km) - once I'd left the fringes of Rome. Technically, Monte Sacro is within the Rome metropolitan area. I've finally worked out the distances for this pilgrimage, and it's 249 km from Rome to Assisi and another 190 km from Assisi to La Verna (if I decide to go that far; I'll see how I feel when I get to Assisi). Today, I encountered two Italian pilgrims going the same way I am, and I passed, separately, two pilgrims heading for Rome. Again, it was hot and sweaty, and I'm not saying I like it, but I might be getting used to it (like the road walking). At least the distances aren't long, and the earlier I start, the more time I have before it gets really hot.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia di Francesco
    244226This is an old Roman site.2Fresco in Saint Antonio's church in Ponticelli di Scandriglia

    Day 4: Montertondo to Ponticelli di Scan

    June 17, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    I left Montertondo at 6:30 a.m. because the walk was long (31.82 km), and the forecast was for 32°. I know it was 31° at 2 p.m. (perhaps I shouldn't have checked), and I still had 3 more hours of walking to do - the heat really slows down my pace! The scenery today was fabulous, and I would have loved every minute of it, except for the heat. Honestly, there were times when I doubted my ability to make it to Ponticelli di Scandriglia - it really was a "one foot in front of another" day. I saw two separate pilgrim couples as I was walking, the second couple was from the Netherlands, I have a Slavic pilgrim staying with me in my accommodation and I met a French and German pilgrim at the bar tonight - all going to Rome. As it's Monday, the restaurant is closed; luckily, I can get a meal at the bar - I'm so grateful. I simply do not have the energy to cook! I don't even feel like eating, but I know I have to.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia di Francesco
    4Nerola
    Ponticelli di Scandriglia and Nerola in the distance62Poggio MoianoMonteleone Sabino churchRoman ruins "Trebula Mutuesca"1442Poggio San Lorenzo

    Day 5: Ponticelli di Scandriglia to Pogg

    June 18, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    I left at 6:10 a.m. in an attempt to beat the heat as 36° was forecast for today. The good news is that it was 33° when I finished my walk (21.70 km), and I didn't really get drenched in sweat until the last, now familiar, steep climb into Poggio San Lorenzo, my destination, under the blazing sun. The walk today was brilliant, and there was a lot of shade - absolute heaven. The terrain here in Lazio is hill, upon hill - all which seem to have a village or town on top. This means that there are a lot of descents and ascents - which is fine as the Way, so far, is going through a lot of woodland and is beautiful. Oh, and before I forget; the waymarkers are terrific. I know that if I haven't seen one in a while, I must be off track - which happened yesterday (of course).Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia di Francesco
    2Very Aussie2Ponte "Sambuco"4A goat on the path18Turano River624Velino RiverIn the Cathedral: Santa Maria AssuntaReally great marble work in the Cathedral

    Day 6: Poggio San Lorenzo to Rieti

    June 19, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    There were so many great things about the walk (23.74 km) today: I was able to leave early (around 6:20 a.m.) in an attempt to beat the heat (the forecast was for 32°); the Way was a good ratio of sealed and unsealed walking - through a lot of trees (my favourite) and after the initial steep climb and descent it was along fairly flat terrain; the clouds came over about 10 o'clock which really made the day feel so much cooler (it was 29° at midday and I was drinking coffee outside and not even breaking a sweat); and there was no steep climb into Rieti! I am very grateful for a wonderful walk today.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia di Francesco
    Saint Francis statue at Rieti
    Rieti city wallsHalf the road was gone!2The Forest Sanctuary26I had to walk down this path - it was a little hairyCantalice42Approaching Boggio Bustone

    Day 7: Rieti to Boggio Bustone

    June 20, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    The good news for me was that the temperature only reached 32° by the time I got to my accommodation. The other really good news about the heat is that my things dry very quickly. I'm sharing a house tonight with Wendy from Holland - of course, she is walking to Rome. Boggio Bustone is perched on a mountain side (825m). If it wasn't for the heat haze, I think I would be able to see Rieti; the valley is spread out below me. The walk today (20.13 km) was incredibly picturesque; I took so many photos. I felt a strong connection with Saint Francis today as I was able to visit and walk through Santuario della Foresta. It was serene and peaceful, and you could really imagine the monks working and praying there in days gone by. Our host is bringing us dinner tonight; I am very grateful as I'd rather stay in the cool house than wander around anywhere.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia di Francesco
    The Franciscan convent at Boggio Bustone2The path that kept disappearingAl Foggio6Pam and PaulLabbro4My first sight of Lake Piediluco

    Day 8: Boggio Bustone to Piediluco

    June 21, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    I know you're probably sick of me talking about the heat - I can't help it; it's really having a high impact on me (34° today). The walk today (22.5 km) was, as I'm coming to expect, tree lined, mountainous, and offering views (I'd be able to show you if not for the heat haze), that are incredibly far-reaching. During the walk, I needed to climb up a meadow where the path kept disappearing. I was scratched, bleeding, and covered in plant life, so I stopped to clear the debris off me, only to be swamped by biting flies! After about three minutes of stomping to get them off my legs, I lost my temper and had a little fit, which set off the emergency alarm in my watch (it automatically emails my family)! Not long after that, I came to Al Foggio (a Saint Francis church) and was able to centre myself and feel the calm and peace. On the other side of the mountain (over 1000m), I met a couple of Australians from Adelaide, Pam, and Paul; they started in Florence and are on their way to Rome.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia di Francesco
    Lake Piediluco
    22The Sanctuary of Saint Francis486"Crazy things are the only things you never regret"22

    Day 9: Piediluco- rest day

    June 22, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    I woke this morning to a beautiful blue sky and, as a real bonus, I felt cool! What bliss! I've now arrived in Umbria, which I've heard wonderful things about, and I can't wait to see more of the region. Piediluco is the site of the national rowing centre, and I saw some serious rowing in action today. The town is quite small and centred around the lake. It's also a holiday destination with boats, fishing and swimming. There are ducks and geese in the park on the shoreline, and the community has put a lot of effort into making the narrow lane ways attractive. I have had a wonderfully relaxing day, and I'm ready to set off tomorrow with anticipation.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia di Francesco
    Piediluco
    2426My first Swan in Italy4Pre water release2Post water release24My Camino Angel2Saint Maria Assunta in ArroneNera river5Forentillo

    Day 10: Piediluco to Ferentillo

    June 23, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    It was another terrific day of walking (24.68 km) today. It started with blue skies, a nice cool morning, then the clouds came over and there was a light rain for a few hours - my perfect walking weather. I'd left around 7 a.m. as I wanted to play tourist and visit Cascata delle Marmore (a series of cascading falls engineered by the ancient Romans). It was well worth seeing. They make quite a show of it: the water flows constantly through the main falls and then at 10 a.m. on a Sunday (usually 11 a.m. every other day) they perform what they call a "drop" and release an ever increasing amount of water over the falls until it comes down like a torrent! It was spectacular! Almost all of the Way followed the Greenway del Nera (a river) - just lovely. Then I experienced a Camino Angel; unfortunately, I managed to lose one of my rubber pole stoppers down a drain at the Cascata and within five km of leaving the falls, I encountered a German pilgrim (Kirsten), going to Rome, who had a spare rubber " just for you". I was so grateful, I hate the clack, clack, clack of the pole on the rocks and road. In return , I promised him that I would visit a nun in La Verna; Angela - for whom he has great affection. The walking was mostly flat after the climb down for the falls, but the landscape is surrounded by mountains and very appealing. My second pilgrimage magic happened at Ferentillo; I'd just moved away from the locked church door when the priest arrived and was able to stamp my credential! What an awesome day!Read more

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