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Via Francigena - part 3
  • Carmel Carlsen
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  • Carmel Carlsen

Via Francigena - part 3

This is the last leg of the Via Francigena - also known as the Sud. It runs from Rome to Santa Maria di Leuca. Read more
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    🇮🇹 Brindisi, Italy
    Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    Sand is never my favorite to walk on, but it is soft
    2The Way had become a swamp and I had to take to the sand dunes to get back on track24A beautiful chapel on the roadsideWhat a surprise to find the seven dwarves inside!42Tadpoles!4

    Day 41: Torre Santa Sabina to Brindisi

    Yesterday in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The Way today was very long (36.08 km). The blessings today were the reduction in temperature, there had been a little rain overnight and the day was mainly overcast, and the strong breeze (except when it was a head wind). The first 14 km or so were along dirt and sand trails and coastline. The rest of the day was on sealed surfaces, which was brutal on my feet. I saw some more wonderful beaches and because of the cooler weather, I had them all to myself - but, because it was cooler, I didn't want to get in. Though, I cannot deny that the water itself was very inviting. The highlight of the day was, finally, arriving in Brindisi to discover that it requires a ferry ride to get into the old city. The bonus was that I met a young local, who was very helpful and even paid my ferry fair for me (just €1.20)! I am exhausted but happy; I have my stamp, I've had my clothes laundered and I've had my Aperol Spitz!Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    4
    22A different VF sign2222Santa Lucia beach2Torre Pozzelle4There were fish in this rock poolTorre Santa Sabina

    Day 40: Torre Canne to Torre Santa Sabin

    May 5 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    The Way today was long (31.16 km) and the walking quite warm. Only the last seven kilometers were along the coastline. I crossed the train line twice; once over, on a bridge, and once under. I saw the Dolman of Montabano; also known as "Paladin's slab", which is a bronze age megalithic monument - seriously, it was just there in what appeared to be someone's yard! I learned a bit about the Olive groves - the fruit bearing Olive tree is grafted to a wild Olive tree and each hectare will contain about fifty to sixty trees! This may explain why the trunks are so gnarly. I saw a herd of sheep and goats, with their shepherd and dogs, moving up the road to a new paddock. When I got to the coastline, I would have stripped off and got in, the water looked so good and the little beaches were lovely but, every beach had at least two people on it!Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    4
    42Torre Canne lighthouse2

    Day 39: Savelletri to Torre Canne

    May 4 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The Way today was short (10.95 km) and, after leaving Savelletri, was along a single road through stone walled olive groves. It may have been one of the cleanest sections so far - there was very little rubbish along the roadside. Naturally, I arrived early, around 10 am, and had to wait until 11 am for the tourist office to open so that I could get a stamp for my credential. I was in luck as the other staff member had taken the stamp "on a tour" (who knows why?) and the staff member on duty drew a lighthouse freehand in my little book to show that I have been in Torre Canne - it's beautiful and I treasure it. There is a proper beach here and the water looks very inviting - I may dip a toe in later.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    The cathedral in Monopoli
    Looking back at MonopoliSaint Stephano Castel10Torre CintolaA group of scouts, I think, coming out of a campground3I imagined this as a hermits lair4One of the trains I saw4Good camouflage, but not perfectComing back to the sea1011The view from my balcony tonight

    Day 38: Monopoli to Savelletri

    May 3 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    What can I say? The Way today (23.08 km) hugged the coastline for the first nine kilometers and delivered more coastal track walking. The water is so gorgeous and the breeze is such a welcome gift. I saw a black snake slithering next to the boardwalk of a fancy resort as I was crossing a little cove beach. I should also mention the hovering birds who are scanning the water for food, they are a delight to watch - though, I can never get a good photo. The inland section was through stone boarded fields, where I saw many ancient olive trees, and crossed a railway line four times - twice I had to wait for a train to pass. Savelletri is the smallest town I've stayed in for a while and, being Sunday, I'm hoping I can get some fruit and breakfast items - fingers crossed.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    2Some Trulli
    2122San Vito24Apparently, people jump off here into the sea at Polignano a Mare4Note the nude sunbaker with a cap on his privates!4This may be a fossil2Inside Maria Della Madia Basilica Monopoli3On the door of the purgatory church in Monopoli

    Day 37: Mola di Bari to Monopoli

    May 2 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    The Way today (30.62 km) really delivered. I turned inland to begin and then returned to the coastline, after only a few kilometers, for an amazing coast hugging walk along, firstly, the Ripagnola Coastal Path, which gave me a "proper" hike, only broken by visits to the towns of San Vito (quaint and pretty) and Polignano a Mare (a real tourist trap). The rest of the Way was again along the coastline through long grass and rocky trails right alongside the water. It was a difficult walk (I am exhausted), but such a refreshing change from what I have become used to. I took so many photos and chatted with a lovely English couple from Oxford, a local who had worked on cargo ships and had been to both Sydney and Brisbane, and a Swiss woman, living in the Netherlands, who has walked from Lucca to Rome.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    6Leaving Bari this morning
    Looking back at BariI saw a few of these little ad hoc shelters along the coastline4My first Trullo (singular of Trulli)24The Fiat 500 club at Torre a Mare24OopsDomus Familiae. Which was near a gated community42Officially marked on my digital map as the "Buon Camino Wall"Castello Angioino at Mola di Bari

    Day 36: Bari to Mola di Bari

    May 1 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    I woke to a beautiful blue sky and quite a cold morning with a very stiff wind - perfect walking weather. The Way today (25.18 km) began along the coastline and stayed there for about 15 km. Inland; I walked parallel to the highway and then along country lanes, through plastic covered vines and olive groves. I saw a number of Trulli along the path. I had thought the Trulli were all for storage, and perhaps the ones I saw today all were, but no, they are also used as dwellings. What is interesting about the Trulli is that they were built without mortar. Apparently, this made them easy to disassemble so that the owner could avoid property taxes from feudal lords! I arrived in Mola di Bari to a town square full of people and music, not live (that started later), pumping through the town! All very festive.
    Update: the festival in town was for the May Day holiday, silly me, I forgot all about it. And, of course, it's a long weekend.    Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    8"The messager"
    The ceiling in Saint Nicholas Basilica. The patron Saint of the East and WestAmazing tile work in Saint Nicholas' tombBari cathedral4Does this look like an ape to you?222The theater3The city walls face the seaItalian Red Cross

    Day 35: Bari - rest day

    April 30 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I awoke this morning to rain. It came as a complete surprise, as yesterday had been without a cloud in the sky. Thankfully, it wasn't a heavy rain, but persistent. After breakfast and my morning coffee, I set off, poncho on, to obtain a stamp for my credential. It turned out to be difficult. The first council office I entered really wanted to help, we walked from office to office, upstairs and down, in search of a stamp - no luck! They directed me to another council office, where again they really wanted to help and had the stamp, but had to spend a good ten minutes trying to find an ink pad. There were smiles all around when it was finally achieved. I then ambled around - Bari is huge and for some reason has an affinity with the cactus - every souvenir shop sells all types of things with either a cactus image or shape. I can't think of anything less Italian.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    Rotto la Cappa tower8My first glimpse of the sea4Clear water and plenty of fish2Tower in the mistThe, very long, promenade26I can't believe I had to cross this4A surf shop in a place with no wavesMore of the very long promenade24Some people were swimming, but most were sun bakingCastello Svevo di Bari4Alex sent me this to show how far I have come. It was a real boost

    Day 34: Bitonto to Bari

    April 29 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Today the Way (24.93 km) has brought me to the Adriatic sea. I can't believe it - I have walked, not only from Rome, but from the Tyrrhenian sea along the coastline at Terracina and Formia to the Adriatic sea! That is amazing to me - who would have believed I would have made it? There were times I didn't. I was in awe when I finally saw the water at a place called Santo Spirito-Catino-San Pio. Even though it was a little misty, and I couldn't see very far out; I was filled with joy. I had been warned by Aya, that the Way would be hard on my feet as it was sealed roads the entire way. She was right, of course, my feet are still tingling hours, and a shower, after getting to Bari. Bari itself is an absolute gem. Certainly, it's a tourist town (of course, I'm staying in the old section where all the tourists congregate), but, that takes nothing away from it's magnificence. I'm so glad I have a rest day here tomorrow.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    4A three wheeled vespa?
    244The cathedral at Bitonto5The creepy statue that looks directly at me on my balcony tonight10Distinctly Italian11A delicate glass in my accommodation tonight2

    Day 33: Ruvo di Puglia to Bitonto

    April 27 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The Way today (19.61 km) was slightly reminiscent of my first day walking from Rome, fortunately, without the stones (mostly dirt). 15.8 km was along the Via Appia Traiana. The first part offered huge trees and plenty of shade, and, as you would expect from a Roman road, it was fairly straight (though, nowhere near as straight as the Via Appia Antica). The vinyards have disappeared and olive groves were everywhere. I had hoped to get a glimpse of the sea, but I think I'm too low. I had a lovely meal last night, but fell heavily on the steep stone steps in my accommodation as I came in from the balcony, without the lights on, and now have a very sore upper right thigh - thankfully it's only a nasty, and tender, bruise. The dog situation has definitely calmed down. Even free range dogs are willing to let me past without too much fuss and, at the only time I got worried (six dogs rushed through their front gate as I approached), the neighbors assured me all was well - and it was.
    Update: I just met a Swedish pilgrim; Aya, who is walking to Rome. Poor thing, her t-shirt blew away when she was trying to dry it!    Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    7In the Cathedral at Andria
    51I assume this was used for storageIn the "Santuary" below Santa Maria Greca church in Corato11Street decorations in Corato2Street decorations in Corato2Street decorations in Corato4Street decorations in CoratoStreet decorations in CoratoTorrente di Santa CroceMany of the vines are covered in plastic!4Angelica, Miriam and myself16This place looked magicalThe cathedral in Ruvo di Puglia3I spotted this in a little laneway

    Day 32: Andria, Corato to Ruvo di Puglia

    April 27 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    I combined two short stages of the Way (28.25 km) today. I set off before 7 am as it was going to be another beautiful day and I'm getting quite warm in the direct sunlight and a cooling breeze this afternoon was very welcome. I've left the wind turbines and wheat fields behind; olive groves and vinyards dominate the landscape. Corato was a lovely little town, it was decorated with umbrellas, flowers in pots lined one of the streets and very large fake flowers were all over the place - it looked beautiful. I stopped there for two macciato lattes and the most delicious cream (maybe ricotta) filled cannoli - what a treat! Just outside the cafe, a van blocked the laneway and a massive altercation broke out when a car tried to come through - it was hilarious! Big gestures all around, car door slamming and a crowd enjoying the show. The highlight, though was meeting two Swiss pilgrims walking the other way: Angelica and Miriam who are on their way to Rome. They said they see a lot of Pilgrims as they are walking in the opposite direction.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    4The band
    The vetrans2Fancy uniformsMore fancy uniforms2I love this jaunty hat, with the feather2Black moss!222A VF marker2As I came into the old part of Andria2My courtyard tonightThe view from the terrace of my accommodation

    Day 31: Canosa to Andria

    April 26 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    I was treated to a Liberation Day ceremony last night in Canosa. There was a marching band, vetrans, the laying of the wreath, and a speech from the mayor. I loved it. It was just the boost I needed. The town was very lively with celebrations running into the night. Me? I got a meal and hopped into bed. The Way today (26.20 km) was a little more undulating than the last few days, but really, it was more of the same: sealed road walking, with some dirt, through agricultural land (olive groves and vinyards). Again, it was quite warm, and, with a little shade, of which there was a lot more today, I didn't feel so hot. Because of all the dog drama, I've become hyper sensitive to dogs, I see them everywhere and anticipate, expect really, an attack (it's been wearing me out; I'm a bundle of nerves). Naturally, I try to talk myself down - be rational (LOL); "really, what is the risk, you haven't actually suffered any harm?" Anyway, this morning as I'm approaching the outskirts of Canosa, I look ahead and see five big dogs lying on the footpath (three on left and two on the right). So, I tell myself, don't be an idiot, they are just black garbage bags (I was pretty far away). So, of course, as I get closer, one of the garbage bags crosses the road! It was five big dogs! However, as I got closer, a VW beetle came out of a gate, exactly where the dogs where and by the time it took the man to lock his gate and for us to exchange pleasantries, I was past the dogs! That really helped me get perspective and I've been promised by the Irish pilgrims that they had no trouble whatsoever with dogs between Bari and Santa Maria di Leuca. I may be able to do this after all! I'm more confident anyway.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    Poppies for Anzac Day
    Paw prints in the mudI spied a chair in the distanceI saw a lot of tractors todayOfanto riverPonte Romana CanosaI climbed this tower to see the bridge betterSan Sabino Cathedral

    Day 30: Cerignola to Canosa di Puglia

    April 25 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    I was reluctant to leave this morning and, so, did not leave until just after 8 am. It's a public holiday here as well in Italy: Liberation Day - though, I did not see any signs of it until Canosa, where there had obviously been some celebrations in the square and there were men in uniforms. The one thing I have found to be true in Italy, is that there is always someone nearby. Even in the fields, vinyards, and olive groves you'll see people every couple of hundred metres or so. That worked in my favour today when a car went past me on a quiet rural road, pulled into a driveway and turned around. Two massive German shepherds appeared on the road from that driveway. I flagged the car down as they came past me again and asked them to take me past the dogs in their car (I simply couldn't take the chance of taking on those dogs alone). The driver, luckily had some English and they agreed! What a relief. Then on another quiet road, a man, who kept telling me he was police, forced a cold bottle of water on me - it actually felt pretty hot (though, it was only 22°) and I drank it gratefully. Then, on the highway, I saw a chair in the distance and determined that if it was functional, I'd sit on it. In less than five minutes, the owner, came and reclaimed her seat - I have to wonder why she was there! Oh, and the Way today was 19.82 km.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    2The cathedral at night6On the wall in my accommodationThe granary pitsThe museum2The church of purgatory!Carmine church422"Stop violence against women"

    Day 29: Cerignola - rest day

    April 24 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    I had a very quiet day today. I wandered around town fairly aimlessly; dropped into a few churches, ambled through the markets, walked through the park and visited the supermarket. Cerignola has the most fascinating underground granaries, granary pits, that were used to store grain - mostly wheat. They were first documented in 1225! They reminded me of graves and being in a cemetery and there it is, right in the centre of town. When I dropped into the Carmine church to take some photos, the guitarist was there playing again. One weird thing, the park was locked in the middle of the day.
    P.S. the waiter tonight asked me to pray for him and the staff at the restaurant after I told him I was walking the Via Francigena. Of course, I will.    Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    Artwork in Stornara
    4Artwork in Stornara12This is Italy. There are rubbish heaps everywhere!My first VF sign that has "Leuca" on itThe sign I'm used to seeing: "Brindisi"26Saint Peter's Basilica in Cerignola4Plums?22Saint Peter's Basilica from the rooftop of my accommodation

    Day 28: Stornara to Cerignola

    April 23 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    Other than a few unwelcome, but not serious, encounters with free range dogs - barking mostly, but nothing too aggressive. I don't have a lot to report today. Two dogs came down the road at me, but let me make a turn on the Way unmolested, then I crept past a dog sleeping in the field who wasn't too happy I'd snuck past him and finally, a French bulldog, of all things, wanted to have a go, as I came into town. I just stood there saying to the three men who were very amused: "this is not funny". I saw Giuseppe leave the accommodation first thing this morning (6:15 am) and we wished each other a good days walking. The Way today (19 km), was pretty much a repeat of the last few days. There were a lot more vineyards and olive groves, even some type of stone fruit orchard, I thought plum, and the dirt road sections were soft, squishy, sticky and muddy after the rain last night - my boots were pretty messy when I'd finished. Believe it or not, I had to replace my rubber pole tips at Ordona as they had worn through - that is a first for me, and I'm lucky I had spares in my pack. I was treated to some lovely singing and guitar playing at the first church I entered (Carmine church) and was glad to just sit in there and listen. I am looking forward to a rest day tomorrow.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    2A field of artichokes in a wheat belt
    Servicing a wind turbine. They are huge4I love a poppy field2In StornaellaThe cycle way2Artwork in Stornara1Artwork in Stornara3Artwork in Stornara2

    Day 27: Ordona to Stornara

    April 22 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    I don't have a great deal to report. The Way (21.20 km) was again, mostly flat, on dirt and sealed roads, and through farmland that was dotted with wind turbines. It rained last night so I got takeaway for dinner rather than risk getting rained on coming back from a restaurant - I still got rained on, but I was very close to my accommodation. It was perfect walking weather today as it was nice and cool and the rain held off until after I had stopped for a coffee and a snack in Stornaella (little Stornara?) about 4 km out of Stornara. The last 4 km was along a cycle way, right next to a very busy road, so I was very glad to have that when I was walking in the rain (yes, poncho was on). My accommodation tonight does not have WiFi, but it does have a washing machine - even better for me. On a very happy note; I think I'm over halfway!Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    Tower at Castelluccio dei Sauri
    217222Giuseppe on the WayCarapelle river (?)32Coming into Ordona32"But there are thousands"

    Day 26: Castelluccio dei Sauri to Ordona

    April 21 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    I had the best pasta (ravioli) I have ever eaten last night. Obviously, homemade and absolutely delicious. The Way today (21.16 km) was again through farmland, mostly flat, on dirt and sealed roads, and without any shade. There were a few dark clouds in the morning and it was pretty windy, but it turned out to be quite a lovely day. I saw at least three free range dogs, and at least two last night, none of whom showed more than a passing interest in me - what a relief. I met another pilgrim today; an Italian named Giuseppe, who is also walking to Santa Maria di Leuca and described the dogs in Campania as "dangerous". I left John and Maria at Troia - if the stars align, we'll meet up again in Bari.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    4
    2Looking back at Troia24I crossed this "closed" bridgeSannoro riverDutton CafeSannoro river4ONC 709Cervaro river4

    Day 25: Troia to Castelluccio dei Sauri

    April 20 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Again today the weather was lovely and the Way (27.43 km), was a mostly flat walk along farm roads (unsealed) and back roads (sealed), mostly exposed, so, I'm glad it wasn't really hot. I walked through farmland, in what I would call a podcast day. As after about seven km, I needed some entertainment. I had a lovely coffee and a nice break at Giardinetto Vecciho. After that, I came to an area, many kilometers long, where the derelict buildings, separated by obvious allotments of farmland, where labeled "ONC" and a number (e.g. "ONC 709") I looked into it later and found it was an organization, the Opera Nazionale Combattenti, in which the agricultural arm coordinated the expropriation of lands and their "colonisation" by vetrans. It had been created after WWI, 1917, and was dissolved in 1977. The land is still being farmed, so I have no idea who farms it now - though at least two of the properties I saw where occupied. I also saw two trains (always a treat) and a, quite large, black snake slithering on an abandoned building. I wish I had been quick enough to take a photo.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    Looking back at Celle San VitoBullets! Really?A new VF signThe first creek crossingThe second creek crossing1The cathedral in Troia22

    Day 24: Celle di San Vito to Troia

    April 19 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    What a different a day makes. The Way today (18.28 km) was warm, a little muddy (the sticky kind that will not let your pole go) and very pleasant. I have moved from Campania to Puglia. There were two creek crossings (boots on), the first was not officially on the path, as I was taking a tractor trail to make up for missing a turn, and, I saw a brown fox and two wild boars that were running up a hillside so quickly - I now know I'll never be able to outrun one - they then crossed the road ahead of me! The best news is that I did not have one scary dog encounter! That didn't stop me from being hyper vigilant; I'm going to work on letting that tension ease. I met up with Maria and John, the Irish pilgrims, after I'd washed my clothes and myself and we are going to have dinner together tonight.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    Santo Spirito2Ginestra riverFirst creek crossing2John and Maria2Second creek crossingMiscano river (?)4Domonique2I couldn't work out of this was an old convent/monestry or prison2A tick!

    Day 23: Buonalbergo to Celle di San Vito

    April 18 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    What a day - I'll tell you all the good bits first. Today delivered the highest part of the VFS: ascent 1002 m, descent: 827 m. Now that large climb, and it never seemed to end, is out of the way, I know I can deal with whatever comes next. The Way (30.95 km) was also the longest of all of the sections so far and I haven't walked over 30 km since that first day out of Rome so, I'm pretty tired, but feeling good about my abilities. It never occurred to me that the mountains I would be climbing today would be bare of trees, but they are! The entire region is under cultivation and the Way was along, tractor trails, dirt service roads, and asphalt. At this height it's pretty windy, which explains the massive wind turbines that are dotted all over the landscape. There were two creek crossing, both of which required me to take off my boots. The water was cold, but not unbearable. The best news is that I met an Irish couple who are walking from Benevento to Bari (they have, some time back, already walked from Bari to Santa Maria di Leuca); I met them after the first creek crossing. Then, after the second creek crossing, I met Domonique, from Switzerland, who is walking from Santa Maria di Leuca to Rome - he assured me that dogs haven't been a problem until now!
    Dog update: of the thirteen free range dogs I encountered today; four ignored me, one was happy to bark at me from across the road and the remaining eight, in a pack, set upon me, quite aggressively, at the Norman castle in Caselbore (therefore, I don't have any photos). Four of them escorted me out of the old part of the town yapping at my heels the entire way! Oh, and I found a tick on my sock this afternoon!    Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    The Pista Ciclopedonale di Pezzapiana as I left Benevento
    2Buonalbergo in the distanceThe cow path2The creek crossingThe first rest bench all day!

    Day 22: Benevento to Buonalbergo

    April 17 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    It was a day! The Way was long (27.36 km, total ascent: 891 m, total descent: 491 m), the longest walking I've done for a while. It was warm and the first bench I saw, to take a rest, was just over 1 km out of Buonalbergo! The countryside was pretty, but unremarkable. I had a group of five small dogs run at me (I was able to dispatch them fairly quickly), which then prompted two big dogs to (with the owner right there. If I have any supernatural powers at all that man has now been cursed) have a serious go at me for about 300 m - it was a nightmare! I'd just come off a really steep climb and was still climbing, I was hot, exhausted, and so angry. Honestly, it broke my spirit. The words "I'm done" came out of my mouth. However, after 18 km of sealed road, and all other free range dogs mostly ignoring me, the Way changed to what I'm calling tractor trails and one cow path, that bought some mud, a lovely cool breeze, a snake sighting, my first creek crossing, and, eventually, did bring a smile to my face. I listened to some music, had a bit of a sob and then began to feel better. Of course, the free range dogs encounters weren't over; as I came into Buonalbergo, a big black dog tried to circle me and then escorted me into town, heralding my presence to all the other dogs: WTF! By that stage, I was so over it, I gave up and let him do as he pleased. Thankfully, he did give up as climbed the last 50 m or so to the church. I'm beginning to think I'm not up for this anymore.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    Santa Sofia church2S.S. Salvatore churchThe town towerBeautiful door decoration at the Basilica BatolemeoThe football club flagInside Basilica of Madonna Della Grazie4A surprise sightingThe Roman ruins2On the wall in the street where I'm stayingImpressive archway: the Traian archSaint Ilario churchAt the UniversityThere is obviously a large sewer systemGorgeous rotunda in the town parkSculptures in the garden behind a museum

    Day 21: Benevento - rest day

    April 16 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Like many large Italian places, Benevento is chock full of churches. I visited quite a few, but as this area is earthquake prone, many of them have been rebuilt more than once. It also has a university (University of Sannio), so I saw a lot of young people around. It's obviously very old as there are some Roman ruins and quite a few museums. And, they patently love the local football team as the main street is festooned with the teams colours and the team flag is flying all over town. I had a pretty quiet day - I am quite tired. The highlight of my day was getting my VF stamp from a French Franciscan Frier (try saying that quickly three times) at the Basilica of Madonna Della Grazie. I had a lovely Japanese poke bowl for dinner last night.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    4The Tau symbol at Basilica Annunziata
    444A rest stop on the old railway line4"The earth has music for those who listen" William Shakespeare222An interestingly shaped snail shell22Calore river in Benevento

    Day 20: Vitulano to Benevento

    April 15 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I woke to rain this morning. Luckily, it had stopped by 8 am - I was happy to set off a little later if it meant I got to stay dry. After the customary steep climb out of town, also known as the heart starter, the Way (18 km) descended for quite some time. I did take a detour at one point when I started down a country lane and spied two big dogs lying in the middle of the road - I don't regret that decision. Once the descent ended, I joined the Pista Ciclopedonale Benevento - Vitulano; a bike and pedestrian pathway which has been created from a disused railway line - it even had a tunnel and despite being a little hard on the feet, I was on it for over 5 kms, it was a pleasure to be on. Benevento is quite large and so far seems quite lively. However, I was very disapointed and surprised to discover that the three laundromats I tried to use where all out of business!Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    Leaving Telese Terme
    8Lake TeleseCalore river2Tower at Solopaca24You don't often see a marker this pristine

    Day 19: Telese Terme to Vitulano

    April 14 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Another terrific day on the Way (17.67 km). There was a lot of climbing (919 m ascent) on dirt and rocky roads and tracks; up, down and along the mountainside. I took it fairly slowly, mainly because I had to (some of the Path was pretty steep), but also so that I could soak in the huge variety of birdsong and enjoy the atmosphere created by the bright green leaves on the light filtering trees. I got off trail at one point and managed to get myself on the wrong side of a barbed wire fence - which I then had to get back across - or rather through! The 3 km descent into Vitulano, a "nature" trail of loose gravel, was dicy at best and treacherous at times - I slipped a lot, but was able to stay upright.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    2Titerno river2I see a lot of these on the ground2The magical pathMy first glimpse of Telese Terme4Despite the place being closed, I was allowed behind the fence to get this photo

    Day 18: Faicchio to Telese Terme

    April 13 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    I left a little later today, around 8:15 am, as it was only a short walk. The Way (14.74 km) was exceptional and an absolute pleasure to be on. The only dogs I encountered where exactly where they should be - behind a fence! I got to see a porcupine, unfortunately dead; they are a lot larger than I thought they would be (about as big as a wombat, maybe a little taller). Most of the walk was away from cars and through nature reserves, or similar. The approach to Telese Terme could only be described as a wonderland; the path was lined with trees, underfoot was soft, because of the thickness of the fallen leaves, and the path was bordered with mossy stone. I had in mind that here was where I might see a deer, but it was not to be.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    Spotted as I was leaving Alife
    I saw a man doing his washing here"Speed control"Castello Faicchio2My beautiful room tonight2

    Day 17: Alife to Faicchio

    April 12 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    It was a bit cooler this morning - buff worthy, but no jacket necessary. I noted that there was not one VF sign until after I'd left the Alife city boarder - coincidence? I don't think so. The Way today (20 km) was entirely surrounded by mountains - absolutely stunning. Being Sunday I got to hear a lot of sustained bell ringing, which is always a treat. Many people greeted me and talked to me (there was one creeper, but that's a story for offline). Language is a problem, but I like to think that least somethings get across that barrier, as we always parted with smiles and a lot of good will.Read more

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