Day 5: Rolling Meadows & Chilltopia

Today was our most chill day so far. The weather told us it would be raining later on (lies), so we got up “early” (7am) and made tracks around 8:30am. We had 7.5km of pretty easy undulating 4WD track, and then another 4km along an actual road (🤯) down to a town called Zaritap. I was surprised to see the road was tar-sealed! 😅

Along the way we saw a few farmers out on their tractors ploughing the fields, we spoke with some workers who were going to do some weeding, and we watched some other farmers herding their sheep as we walked by. We actually happened across a fox at one point. At first we thought it was a dog so started backing away around the corner, but when we zoomed in on it with our phone cameras we saw the tell-tale big bushy tail and pointed face! It ran away as soon as it realised we were approaching (🙏). Soon after that we walked past two beautiful but very, very thin cows. It must be a bit of a tough life for a cow, living up so high over winter…probably not much to eat! 😐 Pretty soon after that we reached the road. The hike down to Zaritap was pleasant enough - 9/10 cars that drove past honked or waved to say hi, and a few asked if we wanted a lift. I wanted a lift!!!!!! But in the end we walked 🙃😝

We were supposed to be staying in Old Martiros tonight at the Old Martiros Guesthouse, but they have a heating issue at the moment so couldn’t host us. The only other accommodation available in this area was here in Zaritap. We’ve decided to go for a guesthouse again because it is so cold at the moment, and the weather forecast is saying it’ll be raining heavily tonight… 🥲

We are both feeling sleepy and a bit lacking in energy, so we are happy to have arrived here in the early arvo and have enjoyed some hours to chill and do whatever. Ben is currently napping 💤 and I am reclining in this massive epic rocking chair next to an equally massive window that overlooks the valley and opposite hillside of Zaritap. We think there’s a church up on the hill… there’s a massive cross up there anyway…

Zaritap seems to be a small, kind of lively but also quiet country town. What I think I mean by that is the people here are upbeat and friendly, but they move at their own pace…but they still have things to do and people to see 🤪 In general, we’ve found people here in the Armenian countryside don’t seem to do much before 10-11am!! Cafes and stores don’t open until 10am or later, and roads are largely quiet until then as well!

Zaritap is a bit different from the other towns we’ve been through, as it seems to be going through a process of rejuvenation. Many of the houses have construction work underway, and there are quite a few “new build” looking places. And they actually have a convenience store!! Praise be 🙏 We’ve already picked up a big, curved, sausage thing, some pasta, and sauce to cook for dinner! Really looking forward to a home cooked, familiar meal - Ben is very excited to explore whatever surprises an authentic Armenian kitchen holds!

One goal I had for Zaritap was to find some shampoo and conditioner so I could wash my hair, and have an “everything” HOT shower. While we were in the little store (which is mainly selling snacky-type food), I had a bit of a challenge trying to determine whether the hair product bottle I was holding was conditioner or shampoo. My nose told me it was conditioner, but the store owner told me through google translate that they don’t sell conditioner or any type of moisturiser or oil (he even called who I assumed was his wife to confirm)… In the end I decided I’d get the shampoo as well as the bottle I thought was conditioner and see how it turned out. And it turns out my nose was right - it is conditioner, and I’m feeling sooooooooo fresh and clean after a massive hot shower (another praise be 🙏). I have instructed Ben to also have a long hot shower and use all the products, because it’s just too good an opportunity to miss - I won’t be carrying the bottles on from here, and he’ll feel so much better for it! 🛁🫧🧼

One funny thing that happened while we were at the store was an older man came up to Ben and asked if he speaks Russian. He then turned to me and stopped, pointing at me, and looked as if he recognised me. He google translated “are you from Martiros?” So we translated back saying we’re from NZ but walked here from Martiros earlier today. He looked excited and said “I saw you walking!” He then asked if there’s anything he could do to help us 🥹 and we said we need to get to Old Martiros tomorrow morning. He then got all excited again and said he will pick us up and take us to the water fountain, something about construction…he may or not be working on this construction…it was difficult to piece together what he was saying! Over the course of the conversation we gathered a crowd of bemused onlookers, who were all laughing and chatting with each other about our poor attempts at translation! In the end we figured out the kind man offering his guidance had misunderstood and thought we were staying in Martiros, so he rescinded his offer of touring us around and gave up on the translations 😩 Perhaps next time! Ben and I are really enjoying these interactions with locals!

As for tomorrow, we have a fair sized day ahead of us! We’re hoping to hitch a ride or get a taxi (whichever we achieve first) back up to Martiros, and from there we hike over to Old Martiros and then UP again to the snow line before heading back down to Gomk. Thankfully we’re staying in another guesthouse in Gomk - knowing there’s a hot shower and a warm bed at the end of the day will be incredible motivation, considering the weather is meant to be packing in as the day goes on.

We’ll have to see how the weather is before leaving Gomk on Monday, as from there (1700m) we’re back up to 2500m, which will be another (smaller) bit of alpine hiking. At the moment Monday is looking okaaaaaaay… but we’ll see when we get there! Might have to stay another night in Gomk - sigh, woe is us, how terrible… 😜😜😜

That’s all for today. Hope you’re all enjoying your weekend! Big love as always! 🩵

PS. I got very sunburnt on my face yesterday from the snow reflecting the uv… :( Haven’t yet seen sunscreen for sale! That’s one thing I missed in my organisation for this hike… woops! Hopefully we’ll find some at some point… for now we wear buffs over our faces and hats on our heads! 🤠Read more