Toughen up Princess

There was a moment near the end of our walk today when we found we’d wandered off the track. We were in the middle of a field. No signs to be seen and our GPS map indicated we’d have to climb a steep hill to get back on track. We climbed and were met with a double barbed wire fence and no gate or stile. I will confess to feeling a bit tearful. Grant eventually found a way over which involved a large tree, but it made me reflect on the fact that I’m really not very intrepid.

My cousins, Malcolm and Cheryl have recently finished walking the whole of New Zealand from top to bottom. Over 2000km and through mud, rivers and mountains. No nice hotel and hot shower for them every night. It was tent or a shared lodge with a bunch of sweaty strangers and carrying enormous backpacks. I am in awe of them, but I know there is no way I could do it that way any more.

So this blog is not about me achieving great physical milestones. It’s hopefully about my discovery of a wonderful part of the world and maybe a bit of personal discovery in the process. I’m fine if I am a bit of a hiking princess:)

Other than our temporary lost-ness, today was a really great day of walking. We started back at the cute village of Llandegla. Sadly the community cafe wasn’t open yet, but we did have a nice chat to an old Irish guy who was on his way to church. (The bells were tolling very politely). He informed us that Welsh was invented to confuse the English.

The rest of the day was a series of changes. We started in a Spruce forest and then stepped out into gorgeous heather covered moors- apparently the best black grouse breeding area in Wales. After that we entered World’s End. This was part of a beautiful valley called Eglwyseg. The entry point was beech and oak forest which suddenly opened up into vast limestone cliffs, with limestone shale scattered down the slopes. Very striking and lovely to walk through.

There are many myths associated with the area. One was linked to the saint referenced in the name Llangollen - Saint Collen (Gollen). He was credited with killing a giantess called Cares y Bwlch who was hiding with her giant mate in the rocks of Eglwyseg.

There’s a 16th century manor house still standing at World’s End which is said to be on the site of one the local legendary events.

In the 12th century there were still Welsh princes. One, called Owain ap Cadwgan, heard a story about the beauty of his second cousin, Nest. She was the wife of Gerald of Windsor. Owain travelled to Gerald’s castle, met Nest and fell in love. He decided to take her, so with accomplices, returned and captured her and her children and burned the castle down. He apparently kept her and her children captive in World’s End.

As you can imagine this did not go unpunished and the long term consequences for Owain and his father resulted in the loss of their lands and positions. Serves them right, I say. One version of the story has Nest and her children returned to her husband so let’s stick with that one.

I’m tired tonight. It’s been five days of challenging walking and my muscles are feeling it. Tomorrow is a big day as we need to retrace our steps back to the trail and then make our way to Chirk. About 19km. It looks like another interesting day with plenty of variety but I will need a good night sleep in preparation. We’ve had a nice meal - roast Welsh beef with Yorkshire pudding- so well fueled.

Speak to you tomorrow from Chirk.Read more