Straddling the border

Last night we were in England. Tonight we are back in Wales, but the fact that this town, Knighton, sits across the border, means it’s been both English and Welsh through its history. It became officially Welsh in 1535. Its church (built in the 1200’s) is named after St Edward, then the patron saint of England (before St George got the honor for reasons I’m unsure of).

I got here by taxi, Grant by foot. No regrets. I needed a day out and this was a good one to choose. We’re just past the half way mark and the Welsh name for Knighton is Tref-y-clawdd which means Town on the Dyke. The dyke goes through the town and it houses the Offa’s Dyke information Centre. Seemed like a good place to invest some time in.

It’s a small market town with a mixture of architecture but mostly 14th and 15th century. Our hotel, The Horse and Jockey is 14th century with the low white ceilings and dark wood beams of the time. At the momentum I’m being regaled by 20 very drunk Irish girls on a hen’s weekend. It’s only 5.30pm and they have consumed more alcohol than I thought possible to be still standing! The bride-to-be’s veil is at a rakish angle.

Best story I learned about Knighton. Up until the mid 1800’s it was possible to ‘sell the wife’ at the place where the town clock tower now stands. The husband brought his wife along attached to a rope and could sell her to the highest bidder and ‘divorce.’ I will leave you to ponder that. Part of me thinks the wife is well rid of anyone who would do that anyway.

I spent the day wandering the town, visiting the Offa Centre, cute shops and St Edward’s church. I enjoy old cemeteries and it’s good to be reminded how lucky we are to have such long lives when you see most ages on the stones are under 70. The most interesting things I learned at the information centre were that badgers love using the dyke for their burrows (we have seen several burrows but no badgers) and that the track planners have realized that directing walkers to walk on the top of ancient monuments was probably not a smart idea. It had been something I’d wondered as it’s causing significant erosion. We have walked on the actual dyke extensively. A plan is afoot to address that but as there is apparently ONLY ONE paid employee of National Trails in charge of Offa’s Dyke it may not happen fast. (I may have this wrong, but the woman in the craft shop told me).

I stopped in for a coffee at a cafe. It was full but a lady called me over to join her and her husband. The Welsh have been universally friendly and welcoming. She was full of chat and her husband a strong and very silent type. It’s the biggest pleasure in travel just having conversations with people whose lives are different to your own. She makes ‘care bears’. She knits them and inserts a healing crystal into them. They are quite beautiful:) She was in town to stock up on her crystals. I managed to extract from the husband that he was a builder (never does anything around the house says wife) and from southern Wales. Agreed the northerners were different and he speaks not a word of Welsh. He speaks hardly a word of English I suspect, if he can help it.

It was only today I learned that the northern and southern welsh come from quite different stock and original languages. What a fascinating island this is!

I’ve been feeling off for a few days and at last had the time to work out what the various strange symptoms meant. Luckily we travel with antibiotics so I’m hoping I’ll get a spring back in my step in time for yet another huge day tomorrow. 25km and three big climbs. It’s a Sunday and no public transport so can’t wriggle out of it even if I wanted to.

Tonight a night at the Horse and Jockey bar and restaurant. Hopefully the hen’s party will have gone to roost.

Speak to you tomorrow after the big day.Read more