Marilyn Munro

Today we climbed a Marilyn. One of the gifts of traveling this way is that every day you are exposed to things you never knew. A Marilyn is a hill or mountain in England, Northern Ireland or Wales which has a prominence of at least 150m. Apparently the name came from a pun in response to Scottish mountains being called Munros.

Our Marilyn was very high - 705m and straddles the English and Welsh border. The ascent was very reasonable as it was gradual. It is called Black Mountain and it is a stunning hunk of red sandstone covered in heath. The views were breathtaking in every direction and we were incredibly lucky with the weather as it’s not unusual for it to be completely covered in cloud or rain or snow…

One of the highlights was the Welsh Mountain Ponies. They have been recorded there right back to Roman times and unlike the Brumbies in Australia are considered an asset to the fragile heath ecosystem. Very aesthetic with long manes.

The male ponies have a ritual where they sniff piles of dung. If it’s not theirs they turn and add their own to the top. The next stallion comes along and does the same, so that over time they can create quite impressive piles - all of which we had to navigate on our path.

I’ve attached pics to try to give you an idea of the beauty and the colours and the vastness. Try to look on a big screen if you can.

Physically we were both doing fine until the very steep descent down to the cute village we are in tonight - Longton. It was a steep drop from 600m and our feet and knees took a hammering. Seeing the hotel felt like people lost in a desert coming across an oasis!

The crazy hill we scrambled down is where tomorrow starts. I’m not doing it and Grant is doing a Grant route that goes around rather than over.

The reason I’m not doing it other than the obvious, that I’m not insane, is that my lovely cousins happen to be nearby so are swinging by to pick me up and we will have lunch together with Grant in the next town of our destination - Llangattock Lingoed. (Our waiter just pronounced it for us and it bears no resemblance to any of those letters). My cousins, Rob and Sarah are usually in Edinburgh so this is a big bonus, though they are here for sad family business. They have been hosts to all our kids, their cousins and random other acquaintances and are just a delightful pair - and as a bonus their daughter Hannah will be there too.

Very much looking forward to time with them and a day off my feet.

After tomorrow only three days of walking to go! Hard to believe it. There was a time there I really didn’t think I could do it, so I’m happy I stuck it out. The last few days in particular have been spectacular.

When I was up on Black Mountain in the heath and peat bogs I was reminded of so much of the wonderful English literature that describes that barren landscape. Tolkien, the Bronte’s, Hardy. I also thought of my father who died 20 years ago next week. A passionate reader and traveler. Why he came to me today I don’t know, but that’s another gift of these long walks. Your mind clears and leaves space for other things to filter in. I had a chance for some quite emotional reflection and am grateful for that. Next week my brother is doing a lovely thing and flying down from Toowoomba to drive my mum all the way to dad’s grave in Grafton for the day. I’m sorry I won’t be with them but am happy that it’s happening.

Our relationship with people who have passed changes over time and I felt a very warm and positive shift in my relationship with my dad up on Black Mountain. For that I am grateful.Read more