• Josephine Gercke
  • Josephine Gercke

A month of Sailing 10/ 2025

Without any sailing experience or knowledge i decide to accompany my boyfriend and his friends on a 1 month sailing trip. From Spain - Street of Gibraltar, to the Atlantic - around Portugal - Bay of Biscay -English Channel - North Sea - NOK to Kiel Læs mere
  • Start på rejsen
    4. oktober 2025

    Adventure beginns in Spain

    4.–8. okt. 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    To continue my year full of new adventures and exploring unknown territories in my life, i decided to spend October on a boat.
    My boyfriend is a skipper and sailing enthusiast and got the option to go on a 4 week transfer trip with a group of his sailing colleagues and friends. Basically a rich person bought a yacht and wants it in a place different from the location he bought it (in our case the yacht was bought in Saint Tropez, Franca and is needed in Kiel, Germany), so they hire people to sail the yacht there.
    Me, having been sailing for a couple hours at a time, maybe 3-4 times in my life, decide to challenge myself and go on this trip. Will i get sea sick? Probably. Will i enjoy it? Hopefully.
    All i know is, this year i have the time, i love the ocean and being outside and.. whats the worst that can happen? All i made sure is to take enough warm and wind/water proof clothes to be ready for all kinds of weather.

    Nepomuk our skipper for this trip and Flo, start the first leg without us, which means me and Kiarash, Nepomuk's girlfriend Larissa and Flo's girlfriend Toni, start our adventure on the 04.10. with a flight to Valencia. The flight was smooth but the way from the airport to the marina is our first challenge: we order an uber- waiting time 22min. This time sadly doesnt decrease, even after half an hour, when we finally can see the car moving, the driver cancels our trip - thank you for that. We spent another 20min waving down a taxi, seems like we chose spanish rush hour for our arrival time, until someone finally takes us to the Marina where the boat is (at least it ended up being only half the price the original uber would have charged).
    Once at the boat, a 50ft racing yacht, with 3 double bed cabins, the two boys await us with ready cooked chilli and rice on deck and we have a calm first evening.

    The next morning we make a shopping list for 7 days of sailing, and end up going shopping with five of us. Im sure we were quite the sight, when inside of the Lidl we used 7 shopping carts and bought no less than 120liters of water (to drink, cook etc.). At least the big taxi we ordered to get everything back to the boat did show up and after some confusion about the location also found us.

    Once back we noticed the boat has incredibly little storage space for its size, and storing everything ended up being a bit of a tetris game (and a game of hide and seek whenever anything was needed throughout the upcoming week).

    Finally everything was ready for take off. Around midday we undock and set of towards Cadiz, where our first stop iss supposed to take place. With a lot of wind from the back and quite large waves from the side, the unavoidable happened immediately : everyone, except Nepomuk got seasick.

    Vomex worked its magic, the first night shifts couldn't proceed as planned and instead luckily Nepomuk managed most of it, while all of the rest of us was trying to sleep and get better. What didnt help was that we had little leaks, and not one but all 3 beds ended up being wet.
    Quite the first night. The next morning was slightly better, but still there was a slight level of feeling sick and i personally avoided being under deck as much as i possibly could. The day went past and in the end we got rewarded with the cheesiest moment when we were all (half enjoying) dinner on deck, with sunset behind us, when suddenly a school of dolphins appear and give us a show. Wow. Already reminded me why i decided to do this thing.
    Since Nepomuk could not handle another night of sailing the boat alone we split up night shifts, and Kiarash and me ended up with a very late one, so we decided to go to bed immediately (sleeping seems to be the only thing to help with seasickness anyway).

    The next morning everything was different. My stomach was fine, not even a bit of seasickness left. Also the wind had died down, so the boat was very calm. What followed was a day of what most people might imagine when going sailing on a yacht in the Mediterranean - bikins and sun and even a stop to go swimming. We stopped the boat to do it, and while initially confused as to why, i understood immediately when i tried to stay close to a floating boat. Even with no motor and no sails up, the current and the waves pushed the boat forward, impossible to keep up with it without swimming full power, so we held onto a line. But so cool, swimming in the middle of the Mediterranean, water hundreds of meters deep, no land in sight.
    Also more and more dolphins kept appearing the whole day - sadly not while we were swimming but the other times. Apparently dolphins really like to play with the stern waves or at the bow of boats, cause they like the action and therefore get really close. And since we usually were the only boat in sight they were around us all day.
    Swimming with people is too boring for them though, and they disappear immediately - fair enough.
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  • Navigating between continents & oceans

    7.–9. okt. 2025, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    This night i got my first introduction to sailing. Lesson number one: navigation & steering.
    Muki took his time to show me the different apps and maps to navigate, explain what means what, where i can see water depth, wind data, obstacles on the map, how to navigate to certain degrees and directions, and even where to find information on boats surrounding us, to decide how to proceed regarding them. Then container ships, fisher boats etc. had started appearing again : we reached the Street of Gibraltar, the small water street separating Africa and Europe with Morocco on the one side and Gibraltar ( a british oversea territory) on the other, and connecting the Mediterranean with the Atlantic Ocean.
    My first experience steering the boat was into the harbour of Gibraltar, to get some Diesel for the boat. Sadly the gas station was closed, but ay.. we all touched the quay wall of Gibraltar!

    In the next hour we had a really mind blowing moment when Muki and i were navigating the boat towards the Atlantic, but in front of us, in the night, were a lot of lights. With no coast that was or should be in front of us we got really confused and even questioned our GPS for a second, before realizing that what we could see in front of us was Morocco. 11 nautical miles away, and just in front of us due to the current course, but still - behind us Gibraltar and the Mediterranean, i front of us/slightly to the side Morocco and straight in front of us the Atlantic. So cool! And what a special moment to properly steer a boat for the first time in my life..

    The next morning i woke up close to Cadiz, where the late night shift guys had decided to go just to get some gas. Cadiz was originally our final location for this leg, but since the strong wind and speed of the boat had surprised us we extended our leg to go to Portugal straight away.

    The day was a bit of a lazy and chill one.finally everyone was comfortable exisiting and moving under deck. I got my first sailing theory lesson, so hopefully i can actually be of some help on this boat 😅.
    Also we got our Orca Emergency Briefing: since Orcas have increasingly started to actually touch sail boats and sunk one right in this area a few weeks ago, we had brought a device that makes a noise thats supposed to reduce the chance of orcas, quite common in this area, to actually physically make contact with our boat. On the one hand the thought of seeing real life orcas in their natural habitat really excites me, on the other of course the thought of an orca making contact with our boat and actually talking about how to handle this scenario, is of course a bit of a worrying one.

    That night during night shift i experienced something really cool about sailing - i saw the power of the wind and how fast it can change first hand. One minute we decide to take down the sails cause there was no wind, then within a mi ute we decide to take out both sails and then first ref the main sail, before taking the main sail down completely again cause the wind suddenly picked up so much that with just the jib we were going at a solid 9 knots of speed. Felt a bit like flying through the waves and heeled our boat so much that walking became a balancing challenge and sleeping, next to someone becomes more of a rolling into each other onto the side of the cabin.

    An exciting night, but the next morning i woke up and everything was calm : overnight we had arrived in our first stop Portimão, Portugal.
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  • Rest days in Portimão

    9.–12. okt. 2025, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Our first stop in Portimão, Mukis girlfriend is leaving us, since she suddenly has to return to the reality of her Referendariat to become a lawyer. Due to weather predictions and many things to fix on the boat before leaving the southern european, meditation climate and weather, we decided to have a couple days to rest.
    The first walk on land made me feel like i was still on the water, the ground felt like it was moving and i felt the waves even though i am sure the concrete of the harbour was rather solid :D.
    Kiarash and i went for a little walk to buy some pastel de nata, portuguese pastry we both knew from former trips, for the group and ended up in a cute little bakery/ coffee shop with a super nice older italian owner, and a proper cappuccino. Back on the boat we all had a biiig breakfast with the pastel de nata, Bruschetta, veggie sausages, bread, cheese.. it is easier to cook without a moving boat after all :D.
    We enjoyed a proper shower, for the first time in 4 days - oh the feeling of no salt on your skin ( just to cover it in sunscreen again immediately).
    Then we went to buy some supplies to fix the boat, in a big harbour, with a lot of different sized, interesting, partially old and broken boats.
    On the way back to our boat we went to pick up the laundry with our dinghy (a small blow up boat), had a nice dinner and then an early sleep.

    The next day was a proper rest day, the order was not to work. After another cappuchino walk we took the water taxi to the beach (since Portimão is seperated by a river we had to cross). The Atlantic, even in the South of Portugal, is way cooler than the Mediterranean, but it was nice to have some hours in the sun and water to unwind and relax.
    After the beach Kiarash and i decided to cook burgers for the group and since the supermarket was quite far away we had a long walk through the town - seemingly very touristy and catered to tourists with interchangable beach restaurants and many shops with beach supplies and bikinis, but in Mid-October almost empty so it has a nice charm to it.
    Buying burger ingredients in this super market for a group including vegans and vegetarians proofed challenging. meat there was plenty but we couldnt find anything vegetarian and when i asked the shop assistant pointed me to an aisle with ramen and told me thats the only declared vegan/vegetarian aisle they had.
    So we bought meat for all the meat eaters and improvised for the rest: Camembert burgers for the vegetarians and sadly only seasoned, oven baked sweet potatoes for the vegan. Shopping was done, but the next challenge was preparing everything on a 2-burner stove in a tiny kitchen under deck.
    We had dinner late but it was amazing and everyone was happy. Also about the cold beer we served with it. A proper rest day.
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  • Many lessons and a lot of fun

    12.–15. okt. 2025, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    After a solid rest day, the next day was more about business - but the part of business that turns out to be quite enjoyable.
    Since Kiarash needed to record a video for his start-up Explorer Elite, and the day before we found a very cool sunrise spot, we decided to get up early.
    At 6:45 when the alarm went off i had the classic moment of regret and doubt, but reminded myself that in the end its always worth to get up to watch the sunrise. A nice little walk along the beach and onto a really long pier leading to a lighthouse, surrounded only by some fishermen and some very early-bird runners, the atmosphere was very calm and peaceful.
    Making use of the fact that a couple weeks ago i had, for the first time in my life decided to buy a proper phone, we took some nice pictures and started filming.
    Once the sun started coming up, the people started appearing and Portimão came back to life. Time for coffee and natas -cause a day without a pastel de nata in Portugal is a wasted one.
    We returned to the pasteleria run by the cute italian old man we found the other day, and had a little breakfast. And then a snack. And another coffee and another nata.. since Kiarash had some work to do and i used the time to sort pictures, get started on my trip blog and also to get in my daily farsi lesson. It might be cause i have my personal coach with me, and since he is on the phone a lot i am used to constant farsi "radio" in the background,  but studying alone with the book is actually really fun and productive. I learned some cool facts about Irani culture and surprisingly the language suggests a really strong matriarchy, contrary to the way the politics and state are run at the moment. According to Kiarash this actually reflects the society though.

    In the late afternoon we returned to the boat, which the others had started fixing in the meantime (i felt a bit bad but probably wouldnt have been of much help anyway), and decided to have a restaurant dinner. We went to a Japanese-Mexican restaurant. This combo seemingly promised a lot of flavor but the food was sadly not very well seasoned for the most part - still a nice dinner with the crew.

    The next day was take off day, which means another round of big shopping. How many german tourists must be here during the season became obvious when We found "Bio-Vollkornbrot" in the supermarket - but nevertheless we were all happy to have some real bread, after we only managed to find basically brown toastbread in spain.

    We tested if we managed to fix our leaking winches and windows - we did. Then stored all the new food in all the different corners of the boat - now we had learned where best to stay what, since we had some very warm vegetables due to random warm water pipes in certain storage sectors in the floor of the boat, on our first leg.
    Then filled up our gas tank (again it was sunday, again we got lucky cause we coincidentally arrived at the gas station 10min before it closed), and took off.
    For the leg to Porto, or A Coruña (to be decided on the way according to weather conditions and new crew members coming on board), the forecast predicts almost zero wind, but also, almost no waves.
    The night shift was still exciting for two reasons: 1st we could finally see a lot of stars since it was only a few days agter new moon and the moon was hiding behind some mountains for the most part of my shift). 2nd because we were now officially in Orca peak region. Since we had read that a few days ago Orcas sank a boat in front of one of the bays we were passing we decided to stay as close to the coastline as possible fo the whole leg. Still i jumped when behind me a dolphin appeared in the water and i just heard the splash and my heartbeat went significantly up until me and Flo had made sure it was dolphins and not orcas around our boat...
    I am still weirdly divided about wanting to see an orca and also hopi g we won't meet one - but for sure seeing one at night would feel siginificantly more scary.
    Apart from that i spent my night and sunrise shift learning all about the different lights boats have at night, and a lot of proverbs on how to identify what type of boat you see, and who has the right of way. "Rot-weiß Fischerscheiß", a red light on top with a white light underneath indicating a fisher boat next to you, was the one i could apply immediately. I really need to get some practice though, as when yoh dont know exactly where lights are usually applied on which boat or what exactly you are looking for it is quite hard to spot them. A few times Flo had to point out what he saw before i really saw it myself.

    The next day we spent still motoring, cause no wind, but not a problem since we had plenty of time to admire the beautiful coastline of Portugal. We saw some cliffs, rocky beaches and a lot of green. Also we had time for shenanigans like pulling Toni up on the mast in a climbing harness to attach our boats guest flag or flying the drone next to some caves to get a proper look.

    I also found some time to finally give my grandma's first book another try ( i had read the beginning probably 10 years ago). It really got me a bit nostalgic, and thinking about some questions i would have liked to ask her and also sent me away to South Africa in my mind, reminding me of old times but also wondering whether my endless "Fernweh", the longing for far away places, while quite represented in my family, might have come straight from her.

    Since the wind doesnt seem like it was going to pick up until we reach Porto, we had to refuel the boat. Unfortunately we were right in front of Lissabon. And it was sunset. So we had to go to a harbour in Lissabon during sunset to refuel - how sad. To take advantage of a docked and calm boat we had our dinner on deck (yes, still in the sunset) before taking off again.

    The next morning i had an early shift, and before getting up i could already smell that Flo (who had previously trained to be a chef in a Michelin Star restaurant) apparently was bored during his shift and had decided to make food. I got up and started my morning shift with a fresh grilled cheese sandwiche and coffee - not bad.
    After a while, when Toni and Flo had just explained to me how the weather terms of fog etc. were defined for sailors, the blue sky suddenly disappeared and we were surrounded by thick fog. Only 1.5 nautical miles from the shore we couldnt even make out the coastline, yet alone see any boats around us. Well, good timing for me to get a lesson in how to behave in scenarios like this.
    Also we had another problem to take care off: over night we had fished something. Behind our boat we were dragging something along - our guess a fisher net. Since because of the orcas we tried to stay as close to the coastline as possible, we were passing a lot of fisher nets and had to slalom through them. In the night thats harder, cause mostly they are barely visible even in the light. So it seems like over night we had crossed one and now had to make sure it wasnt /wont tangled up with our radar. So we used the fog, that would only allow us to go slow anyway, and stopped the boat. Flo put on his wet suit and the climbing harness, we attached him to a rope of ours and he went in to dive and see what was happening. What he found was many many meters of a fishing line, with a lot of hooks - but no fish. We pulled it all on shore, which actually took a while.
    Since the sun still wouldnt come back out the day was calm, a lot of chilling and napping - for the first time under deck was more comfortable than on deck. I really hope this was not the start of a continued phenomena the more north we get- i managed to escape winter and fall for so long, i am still not ready.
    After a while i went back on deck and had some cool conversations with Muki about how to steer boats into harbours (or not) during storms, and Frank Schätzing's novel "Der Schwarm", which fascinated me for its well researched very timely content when i first read it some years ago, and we both had to think of now when the whole topic of orca attacks on boats suddenly became relevant for us.
    I finished the day by cooking under deck, while not in harbour, for the first time myself : lemon pasta and also my very first alone night shift. The fog came back so i spent that night shift starring into the fog trying to make out lights from boats i could see on our navigation system -impossible. 10min before shift end the fog suddenly cleared, the coast reappeared, i could see some stars and also the boats in the distance - hopefully i will have some more night shifts like that. In the fog, in the dark its a bit more scary and a bit less fun to be on deck alone :D

    The next morning i woke up to a calm boat - overnight we had arrived in Porto. Or so i thought, but the harbour we were in is 30min outside of Porto, cause the city one was not deep enough for our boat. But this one came with another feature: the moment we excited our cabin a very strong smell of fish that has been in the sun for too long was all around. Seems like we were in a harbour where fishing was a thing. We exchanged idyllic Portimão, for a very basic, very smelly port. Our next stop, where we will wait for 2 new crew members and prepare the boat for the Bay of Biscay - the most challenging part of our journey.
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  • Engine failure & fog

    15.–17. okt. 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    To escape the fish smell Kiarash and i decided to go into Porto quite quickly. The others decided to spend the restday at/on the boat, which actually amazes me. They had done thw same in Portimão, not even really gone for walks. After some days of being stuck on our 50ft boat, i really need some time outside of it and to move my legs a bit. Also for me part of the adventure is to wander through random towns we end up in, its very interesting to me how the others are totally satisfied just
    being on the boat, even when not on the water.
    Still we didnt do much in Porto, since we were both exhausted, we had some solid coffee, i studied some farsi he did some work.. when we came back for the Gnocchi Salad, we were gonna have for dinner, the others had just noticed that our fridge had overperformed at its job and our Gnocchis were completely frozen. We spontaneously decided to go out for food and had a very simple, yet very tasty burger.

    Our pitstop in Porto ended up being a short one, as the weather forecast being rather windy and not so great, we decided to go to A Cornuña after all. From here we would be able to set off for Biscaya more spontaneously and could therefore could take better advantage of windows with less wind and better conditions.
    Back on the water, we had sailing wind for approximately an hour, before we had to turn the motor on again, i had the first moment of really realizing that sailing with no wind, or with very constant wind is actually mostly doing nothing all day. Every few hours maybe you adjust the course, sometimes you change the sail settings but thats it. So i got another productive Farsi lesson in - i know uncovered half the alphabet (reading and writing) and can form some sentences about my family in persian. If i continue this way with my studying, i might actually be able to have a little conversation with Kiarash's family in January or actually read also the arabic alphabet writing of farsi (in everyday texting persians mostly use roman alphabet to spell farsi words, and therefore in chats etc you barely see Arabic letters).

    My night shift was starring into the black and trying to fall asleep. But also my  absolute highlight on this trip happened: the atlantic ocean at the moment is in the season of a lot of glowing: some organisms in the water that are bioluminescent, set of by movement in the water. Meaning every breaking wave glows in the dark. But also meaning that the dolphins that came out to play during my nightshift, were not only visible but seemed to be moving surrounded by glowing blue/white light, also making them visible when just swimming underwater. All their movement was traced by what looks like the chemtrails that airplanes leave on the sky - it was breathtaking and more random made up for not seeing any starts that night...

    The next morning i got woken up with the words "we have engine failure, we need you on deck cause you are the only one speaking spanish".
    I came on back to a big chaos full of oil, bottles with diesel tools etc, and out of the fog appearing a fisher boat with some guy on it. My task: ask them if they have a diesel filter. I dont know what confidence the crew had in me, but i dont even know what a diesel filter is or does in german, so in spanish well..
    Un Flitro por gasolina? Algo por filtrar el diesel? Well i tried, in my pjamas, against the sound of the waves and the wind to get our problem across to the spanish fisherman who also definitely mumbled his answers. I dont think he wanted to understand us, he only offered to tow us a few times- something he would get money for.
    After they were gone Kiarash dared to make fun of me struggling with spanish and told me i could've just explained the problem and what it exactly is that we needed. I answered that would have been helpful if i knew what exactly our problem was and what exactly diesel filters are 😅🤨.
    But hey apparently an experienced skipper also becomes sort of a mechatronik, since Muki after taking apart the whole motor and debating every possible option, also attempting to clean the diesel filter with his toothbrush - he actually found the problem (something else was also blocking the entry to the filter, if i understood correctly) and managed to actually fix it!!
    After a few hours of trying to sail just with the gennaker and almost no wind and estimating to now need 10 hours to La Coruña if we get lucky and the wind turns at the right time - we were back to our ETA of 5h until La Coruña.
    We were moving again and also got rewarded instantly : suddenly dolphins showed up, but not one or two, no probably like 20-30 dolphins all around our boat, for like 20mins. Amazing, absolutely amazing.
    We also saw some purple, blue portuguese manowars, none of us had ever seen before floating by.
    Very lucky actually cause our visibility was still at around 50m to all directions until the thick white fog started that kind of gave me a feeling of being the only people in the world. Also cause on water, the view literally stayed the same, for hours, no changes. At some point Toni and me w
    were just starring at the waves, and the fog and tried to make out anything. When we actually saw a ton, that our map was showing us, for the first time after hours, we got so excited that Muki came running on deck to see what happened.
    Apart from that we found that in our bilches, the floor boards under which most of our food is stored, an oat milk had been too close to the hot water pipes (what were the useful for anyway?) For too long and had not just gone bad but also burst. So half an hour we were entertained by taking the rest of the juices and milk cartons out of the bilch, showering them, and cleaning the fermented oat smell from the boat..
    Also when we were getting closer to La Coruña (finally) we found on our map that on one of the tiny rock islands in front, someone had marked a sauna on google maps and it even had some reviews. Not actually believing, but maybe kinda hoping, that a sauna was actually there we drove really close but ofc someone had just pulled a very good practical joke.

    And finally we arrived. Shortly before dark we made it to La Coruña in the fog, by far the most exhausting part of this journey for now. All happy to be there we made a big, tasty dinner and had lots of really funny, hood conversations before an early night of sleep.

    This morning i woke up with zero energy. Although i had slept a lot i was dead. Still i had to get up, we were all exhausted but the boat had to be prepared: we will get two new crew members today, and also have to leave again tomorrow morning. So i started my day with coffee (Toni had made coffee🙏)
    Next came cleaning, and shopping.
    And then once everything was ready (just exactly right now) the forecast changed again, and we will stay in La Coruña u til monday at least. While wind in Bay of Biscay is always strong 45 knots of forecast is too much for our boat.
    So seems like we get to relax a bit after all, and watch the funny little parade/carneval that seems to be going on in La Coruña, next to the triathlon that is already causing a lot of disruptions in the entire city center and surrounding the port.
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  • Wind, waves & seasickness

    20.–23. okt. 2025, Frankrig ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Since we had spent the day preparing everything, including pre-cooking food, for the next days of crossing Biscaya, we didnt want to cook more and decided to all go out for dinner. Well funny idea, because with 7 people, on a saturday night, after a big event in the city center all day, well not easy. Also with some people having very strong opinions on food (dont we all love that scenario when people reject all offered options but dont suggest anything new..), even less easy. We walked around the center, which was super busy but also really pretty for an hour, everywhere we got there was maximum a table for 2 or mayyybe 3 people available spontaneously. When we finally found a place with a table for 7, the next challenge came up. We were in spain, in a tapas restaurant, with 4 vegetarians. Only vegetarian options on the menu: the side salad or the starter tortilla. So... out again, keep looking. Next place we found that was empty enough, had a 1,5 star review average on google, so we decided against that also.
    The place we ended up in, when we were all very much close to the border of letting hangry take over the mood, ended up being a really nice place, quiet and serving some nice mix of asian foods. Luckily i am used to dinners around 10/11pm in my everyday life, the others in the group though usually eat dinner at 6/7, so it was for sure a close call to starvation 😄.
    Seeme like without leaving the harbour we are still starting our adventures.
    The next day, our unexpected extra rest day was really good though. After sleeping in properly, we spend the day in a café, with reading+farsi/working and went for a nice walk on the beach.
    Somehow i ended up in 3 atlantic coastal, spanish cities this year, i love all of them - unexpectedly this region really comes high on my list of potential places to live for a while. This phenomenon of being in the city center and suddenly stumbling onto the beach with waves, surfing and tides.. amazing.

    Since the soles of my boots started to come of in the last sailing night, we decided to give Zika Flex a try. It managed to seal our windows and glue back in our winches, so why shouldnt it work to make sure my feet stay dry (and i wont trip over the soles due to not lifting my feet properly)? :D

    The evening we decided not to repeat our mistake from the day before and ordered pizza to the harbour - everyone got exactly what they wanted and we had a cosy night in, before getting up early (breakfast at 7 the next morning). We also discussed the upcoming next couple days in detail.The plan: cross the Bay of Biscay in the 48 hour time window we had between the worst of two lowpressure systems. The idea was to kind of follow just behind one of them, and hope to make it to the other side, to Brest, before the next one hit full force.
    I have to admit, i was more than nervous. Everyone else seemed quite excited though and since i trust all of them and their sailing experience, and also didnt have much of a choice anyway, well i guess this is happening now.
    Early night before getting up for breakfast at 7 was next.

    The plan was to leave at 11, but since the Baumarkt was closed yesterday, Muki had to go today to buy some last utensils to finally make sure all the windows are properly sealed.
    The task for the rest of us: prepare the boat in anticipation of 6m waves and 35knots of wind. So: nothing lose allowed anywhere, everything had to be stored. Also we had to anticipate the fact that seasickness could hit all of us bad in this weather and to make the conditions of that as comfortable as possible we placed tissues, water, vomex, pre-cooked ginger tea in thermoses, cola, and a solid mix of fast snacks everywhere on deck and in all the cabins - as wasily accessible, while still stored properly, as possible. We covered the couches in garbage bags, to create the option to just go under deck and pass out immediately, with all the "Ölzeug" the oil skins (jacket, pants and shoes made for tough weather), no matter how wet.
    Moving under deck was challenging enough with the 2m waves we had had so far, 6m would make it very unpleasant, so keeping distances as short as possible, would be a benefit for all of us. Funny how sailors seem to fully anticipate throwing up for a couple days and still chose to go sailing again and again and be happy and excited about it.. i am still forming my opinion on this one.

    So prepared for the worst, hoping for the best, we finally undocked at 3pm.

    Not before another round of Vomex for everyone - this medication blocks your histamin and therefore helps for not feeling seasick, but it has to be taken in advance - once you start throwing up pills wont have much use anymore.
    The start was smooth, the wind still bearable and the waves honestly really fascinating. I felt fully fine and enjoyed watching this massive body of water making waves and lifting us up and down, no land in sight - again makes you feel really small and you can really feel the power of the water.

    To rest before my first night shift, i decided to sleep quite fast though - another useful side-effect of Vomex, it knocks you out a d helps you sleep at unusual times and with all the noise of the ocean around you.
    When i woke up again i was still fine, but the moment i got up, things changed. When seasick, what helps the most i to lie down and close your eyes, standing usually makes things work, especially under deck. To get on all my clothes and oil skins, i had to get up though and immediately the waves made me feel so sick that i had to interrupt the process of getting dressed to run to the bathroom.
    Once dressed and outside things were crazy. Completely dark and water splashing everywhere, 30knots of wind, rain and waves Muki told me "Fini you are not steering today, too challenging. Sit right here, closest to the sprayhood(the entry of the boat to go under deck), to protect yourself from the weather as much as possible and just be another pair of eyes on deck. If you move stay as much down as possible, of course always attach the safety belt and just be careful."
    The next thing i heard was that 1 hour before our Fock (the small sail in front) ripped, due to a lot of wind (and probably quality of the material). So we were sailing with the riffed main sail, but the wind was coming from behind so the person at the helm had to focus really hard to keep the boat on course to avoid accidental gybes - the boom from changing sides in an unplanned way, one of the most dangerous things to happen on a sailing boat, especially with this size, in this weather). So, no steering for me, this was not a beginners task. I spend my shift sitting, watching first Kiarash and then Flo struggling to keep the boat on course, made more difficult with the massive waves, and.. well with a bucket in my lap, crawling around occasionally to empty it.
    Usually the person not steering is supposed to do navigation, but we were on the open sea just going in a straight line for 2 days, no obstacles in sight, almost no other boats around, so navigation was not needed.
    After one and a half, of 2 planned hours, Timo came up and told me he can start his shift early if i wanted to go to bed - i accepted more than gladly.
    The moment i was back in bed, under a warm blanket (yes, i did go through the effort of taking of my oil skins, even though i would have to put them on again later), i felt immediately better.

    I woke up for my next shift 4 hours later and everything felt immediately different. No rain, i could not hear much wind and also the waves had calmed.
    I could get dressed no problem - but i saw i was for sure not the only one who had had a tough night : Marja was passed out in full rain gear on the saloon floor (not even the couch) Kiarash was lying next to me but also in rainpants and shoes (to stay in standy by modus), at least he had put towels under, and the whole boat was dripping a bit cause there was wet oil skins everywhere.
    The outside world had calmed down massively, with only 7 knots of wind left the storm was somehow over, it felt more like the first couple weeks of this trip than anyone had dared to expect. The only difference were the big waves. But i could finally keep down the cola and some snacks and managed to do my shift as normal, just fine.
    The next morning i spent sleeping, or doozing. Since some people were moving around, the motor was being fixed again and the waves and the wind were as always creating a solid noisy background. Around 1 i decided that i really had to try and put some actual food in my body again, and made it through 4-5 spoons of our precooked risotto before i gave up (Kiarash had the same with the precooked pasta). My stomach immediately felt funny again, and sitting up under deck really didnt feel good. I decided to get dressed and go on deck - usually on deck sea sickness is always better - fresh air and watching the horizon helps.
    And it did help, on deck i was immediately fine again, watching the water and the waves was amazing and the sun even came out for some minutes every now and then. Poor Marja was still super sick, and was taken out of the shift plan until the next harbour - poor girl had just joined us for this part of the trip, taken holidays just for the Biscaya crossing..
    Since Flo, Toni and Timo had spent the morning on deck, Kiarash and me (and Marja) were taking the afternoon shift. Since the weather had calmed down a lot we were using autopilot so we were just chilling and talking. Also hundreds of the portugese manowars we had already seen on the last leg of our journey, but this time the babies were swarming around our boat.

    The night shifts were calm but cold. The second one past super quickly since the whole hour i was on deck (the water was so calm that the navigation shift could sit under deck in the saloon), i was watching dolphins play and hunt other fish around our boat. We had a lot of dolphins on this trip already, but it doesnt stop to amaze me to watch them from so close and to see more of them than just their fins when they jump out of the water.. 😊😊.
    Maybe those experiences are why sailors put up with the seasickness.
    The next day i slept in again, the night shifts always interrupting your sleep makes sleeping in necessary, at least for me. And since time really becomes a quite irrelevant concept when on a boat 24/7 the rythm changes anyway.
    When i joined Flo, Toni and Muki on deck though we were down to the last couple hours of our leg. I was hungry, but also couldnt find the energy to make food, so i just had some snacks and fruit for now.
    On deck i got to test my new oil jacket, and the borrowed pants and shoes (the zika flex had come of last night again sadly, but since i was only sitting it was okay) - because outside the wind was picking up again (cooold) and it was raining heavily.
    But a whole nother scenario as during the first night since it was daylight, land was in sight and everyone was hyped to arrive.
    The oil skins did keep me dry and making navigation a team effort and steering through growing waves, although we still used the motor to be faster, we finally arrived in Harbour.
    We immediately hung up all our oil skins in the two bathrooms we have under deck, and made a big lunch - everyone was hungry.
    1 hour after arriving in port the world outside was basically falling apart: we had just about dodged a proper storm eith 60knots of wind (double of what we had in our first night). Even docked in harbour we could feel the waves shaking our boat and except for running to the showers (for some reason there was no light, but at least they were proper warm showers), we all hid under deck.
    Outside it was raining heavily, strong winds and inside we were just happy to not be out there anymore, playing a card game and snacking, everyone finally hungry and dry again.

    During the night i really got a bit afraid of the thought of what would have happened if we hadnt made it on schedule to the harbour. It was pouring, the wind was clearly audible. And the waves, in harbour, was feeling like a giant decided to full force kick against our bed, every few seconds, making everything vibrate.
    Wow. But at least no up and down. So after some well deserved netflix time, we finally (although still with airplugs like on the water) got a full night of sleep. And what kind of sleep. 10 hours non stop, like a baby... 😴😴😴
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  • Stranded in Brest

    23.–27. okt. 2025, Frankrig ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    The weather made us stay in Brest for some days.
    We got our well deserved rest days and managed to walk around a bit and be off the boat.
    While i am used to travelling, this way of slowly travelling through southern Europe with stops in multiple random places per country shows you even nuanced differences i didnt expect between countries and cultures. For example the availability of vegetarian supplements: in Portugal mostly not a problem, in spanish supermarkets mistly not existing, in France: they have but only like whole meal ones like burger patties. Just vegetarian sliced "meat" for sandwhiches - impossible. Nothing.
    Or that while in Germany you cant find food after 10pm, in Spain restaurants open at 9pm, i k ew that. But that in France vetween 2pm and 7pm its impossible to find food, i didnt know.
    - Stereotypes are not great, but usually true. 4 days in Brest and i remember more of my 4 years of french classes from high school, than i ever anticipated. Cause 99% of the people i spoke with did not just refuse to speak english, they also fuöly refused to understand even the simplest words. We had a guy asking us if we speak english in french 3-4 times - at some point Kiarash understood him and while i thought it seemed a bit ride at first his reply was perfect : Why do you ask me in french if i speak english??
    In the end it didnt help us, cause the guy didnt speak english..
    Other than that what we collectively learned that google reviews might sometimes be helpful to identify good food places, but not always. In Brest we had bad luck, every single time. I was hopefuö for french cuisine but somehow every café and restaurant we went to served really bad food and drinks. Only some good IPA we found, in a bar we went to to steal wifi.

    Some hours of my time in Brest also went into plannning. Since next week i have another trip, to London, with my family planned, i have to be back on the 30th. Since our boat had so many issues and also the weather was giving us a hard time, i had to come to terms with the fact that i will not be able to complete the trip all the way back to Kiel as planned (the current ETA is the evening of the 31st). I played with the thought of being dropped of in Calais and take a ferry over the English Channel, but then my mum (luckily!) reminded me, that i need my actual passport to enter the UK. I am always a bit disappointed when, with my level of travel routine and experience these things happen to me, but also i want to blame the stupid UK politics for this a bit also.
    But doesnt matter, it just means i spent some hours researching how to get from northern France to the North of Germany in the most cost and time efficient way, in the next couple days. I saw "cheap" (350€) plane connections taking 39 hours flying from Paris to Gran Canaria and then Hamburg, or insanely expensive train connections. In the end i opted for flixbus, 24 hours with one stop..
    Another journey in itself i get to lool forward to tomorrow.

    Some things i noticed:
    - on the boat time just passes faster. There is always something to do. Yesterday after sleeping in twe had breakfast, planned the rest of our route and went for the next big grocery shop (by now, we are a routined team and working our way through a shopping list time efficiently is no problem) - and then it was already dinner time.
    - so being on a boat is a good way to travel and see places, but in the end uou mostly see the areas around the harbours.On off days you are usually to exhausted to walk around, habe to fix the boat or prepare for leaving to be on the water again. I didnt come on this trip expecting to really get to see the cities we stop in, but i also on this trip really learned to understand the saying "its good to have an end to journeu towards, but its the journey that matters in the end". Sailing has very little to do with arriving and everything to do with being on the way. Also cause with the rotating shifts, different sleep and eating routines, but also the depemdability on wind and water (making it impossible to plan accurately), you fully lose track of time and that slows down life a lot.
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    Slut på rejsen
    29. oktober 2025