Feb 11 - Larnach Castle

It’s another sunny, clear day here in NZ. Except for the little bit of “liquid sunshine” we had in Doubtful Sound, we have enjoyed spectacular weather on this trip. I had a very light breakfast - read on to find out why.

Linda picked us up at the leisurely hour of 9:00 a.m. This group is obsessive about being on time - no one wants to do the walk of shame down the aisle after the appointed departure time. We drove along the Otago Peninsula and climbed in elevation as we went. We passed the Pacific Ocean - if you squinted your eyes really hard, you could see Antartica. OK, maybe not….. We enjoyed splendid views of Dunedin’s harbour. It is very shallow in many spots and so it is far, far too expensive to keep dredging. As a result, cruise ships have to moor a distance out of town and bring passengers into town on the train we took yesterday. The QE2 is in town today - Linda worked hard to shield us from that mob scene.

Our destination - Larnach Castle. This grand house with its sweeping views of Dunedin, Otago Harbour, the Peninsula and the Pacific Ocean.below was built by William Larnach, a man of Scottish descent who was born in 1833 in New South Wales, Australia. His made his initial fortune in banking during the gold rush that swept through the Otago Region in the late 1860s. Larnach's brillant career encompassed his merchant empire Guthrie and Larnach, banking, shipping, farming, landholding, politics and... speculation. He travelled extensively and was a cabinet minister in the New Zealand Government, holding various portfolios, over a period of twenty-five years. Larnach was married three times and had six children. He was pre-deceased by his first two wives and his eldest daughter, Kate. He took his own life in the New Zealand Parliament Buildings in 1898.

Once William had chosen the perfect location for his “forever home", the hill site was levelled by putting pegs into the volcanic rock and pouring salt water on them to split the rock. Approximately 200 men spent three years building the shell of the Castle and then gifted European craftsmen spent 12 years embellishing the interior.

Materials from all over the world were used - marble from Italy, slate from Wales, floor tiles from England, glass from Venice and France. No expense was spared in creating Larnach's dream home. Many New Zealand native woods were also used - kauri ceilings, rimu floors and honeysuckle panelling. In 1885 a 3,000 square foot Ballroom was added with a sprung floor - perfect for dancing the night away.

Our guide, Robin, led us on the tour and regaled us with the many stories of building challenges, betrayals, young deaths, suicide, family strife, drama, tragedy, legal squabbles and money problems. This family’s story would make a great mini series full of juicy scandal!

Larnach Castle has had many owners between the Larnach Family and the current Barker Family. The Castle has had many uses, as a lunatic asylum, a hospital for shell-shocked soldiers and a nuns' retreat. The Ballroom was once even used as a sheep holding pen!

When Larnach Castle was purchased by Barry and Margaret Barker in 1967 the Castle was in a state of near ruin. The ballroom was being used to pen sheep and the ill-repair of the roof meant a significant amount of water damage had occurred to the once-stately interior.

Devoid of furniture and with many of the beautiful architectural features missing; the Barkers thoroughly researched the original décor, furniture and artwork in order to restore the castle to its original glory. Today, almost every room has been lovingly returned to the exacting standards of Larnach’s times.

Such a magnificent home was of course set in equally magnificent grounds, all of which were overgrown and neglected when the Barkers arrived. Over time, the 35 acres of grounds were cleared and felled, allowing for the creation of wonderful gardens with vistas, paths, flower beds, hedge rows and trees. So much so, that they are now listed as a “Garden of International Significance” by the New Zealand Gardens Trust.

After our tour, we enjoyed High Tea in the Ballroom Café. There was much discussion about how to correctly raise one’s pinky finger while delicately sipping tea from the fine china tea cups. Delicate ribbon sandwiches, scones with jam and whipped cream and melt-in-your-mouth shortbread - now that put an end to the mid-morning peckishness that this traveling girl faces each day.Read more