May 13 - Oudtshoorn and Ostriches

I’m going to have go fast – the power is going out at 10:00 p.m. tonight until midnight, and then again from 6:00 a.m. to 8:00 a.m. Generator salespeople are kings in this country of too-little electricity supply.

And I don't have enough band width to upload pictures and video. Will try at our next accommodation.

It’s been another great day! I woke up to the news that my son and daughter-in-law had a beautiful baby boy yesterday. James will be loved by all and will be a wonderful playmate for his big brother, Luke.

After a lovely breakfast, we did a short walk along the ocean front. The views were fabulous, and the sun was trying valiantly to break through the clouds.

We loaded up the van and made a quick stop in the shopping area. I did a commando stop at the fabric store and got more Shweshwe fabrics. Then we found a wine store and replenished our supplies. At many restaurants here in South Africa, you can bring your own wine in for dinner. With the precious cargo safely strapped in, we started heading east and north inland. Another rainbow smiled at us today!
Gradually, the landscape began to change. The high, steep mountains gave way to more gently rounded hills (much like the foothills of the Rockies). We passed big cattle farms and then sheep farms. The sheep are raised for their wool which is then exported to America and Europe. Italians are especially fond of South African wool.
We made a quick stop for photos at Tradouwpas. The views of the deep gorge are spectacular.

We picked up Rte. 62 that took us through more wine country. Rte. 62 is the longest wine route in the world at a whopping 850 kms. It is a popular route for cyclists and wine afficionados.

We eventually came into the Karoo district. This area is much drier – almost desert-like. The vegetation is much lower, more scrub-like, and the soil is dry with a lot of small pebbles and rocks in it. We drove through a lot of rain. Liz said that she had never before had rain while driving through the Karoo. This year the area has had a fair bit of rain and the vegetation was very green, rather than the dusty brown colour that she is used to seeing.

We made a quick pit stop for coffees and gas and to stretch our legs. Today is our longest drive.

In the early afternoon, we stopped at a winery for a tasting session and to nibble on charcuterie to hold us over until dinner. I sipped on port while eating springbok (antelope) carpaccio (very, very thinly sliced meat).

We had one last stop for the day – at an ostrich farm in Oudtshoorn – the Feather Capital of the World. Ostrich farming began in South Africa in 1860-1865 when the government imported ostriches from North Africa to be raised mainly for their feathers. Ostrich feathers were in high demand for cabaret shows like the Moulin Rouge. The First World War dampened demand, and the focus switched to raising the birds for their meat. This farm raises about 1000 birds per year which are then sold to a cooperative that harvests the meat and the feathers. The farm artificially incubates many of the eggs to improve the yield as the mortality rate in open environment is very high. Female ostriches are greyish brown because they sit on the eggs during the day. Male ostiches are black because they sit on the eggs at night. Ostriches are very aggressive and are highly attracted to bright, shiny things, so we were very careful with jewelry and cell phones. We bought ostrich food and took turns feeding the birds who will eat and eat and eat all day long. Great fun and very educational.

After a whiz through the store looking at exquisite ostrich purses and wallets, we headed back to our guest house. La Plume is a 1902 Victorian homestead on a working ostrich, alfalfa and wine farm. It’s a lovely, classy place set on a hill. It is full of old-world furniture and has the original wide-plank floors. Each room is different and boasts sweet little touches of décor. The bathroom in Colette’s room is a work of art in itself! We had dinner at the guest house with our own wines (for a nominal corkage fee). Several of us had ostrich as our main meal – it was so tender and delicious. Yes, we will have it again! What a delightful dinner – that’s one that we will remember!

Tomorrow we are off the Knysna.Read more