Aug 18 - Elliston & Cape Bonaventure

Today’s aim was to go north on the Bonavista Peninsula. Our first stop was in Elliston at the memorial to the men lost in two major sealing disasters in 1914. We learned the details at the John C. Crosbie Sealers Interpretation Centre. Many of us remember John Crosbie as Minister of Finance, Minister of Fisheries and Oceans, Minister of Justice, and Minister of Transport and for his many politically incorrect comments, especially those directed to women. But his love for Newfoundland was immeasurable.

In 1914, the sealing ship SS Newfoundland lost 77 men in a vicious blizzard. In that same blizzard, the SS Southern Cross vanished with 174 men aboard. Newfoundland lost 251 husbands, sons, fathers and brothers out of its population of just 250,000 in one storm.

The sealing industry is a huge part of Newfoundland history. The seals appeared for one to two weeks in late December and January as the herds migrated southwards from the Arctic, and again in late February and early March as they swam northward to give birth on the drifting pack-ice. With the invention of a lamp in the late 1700s that used seal oil, demand for oil skyrocketed. The streets of London, England were lit with Newfoundland seal oil. As well, many fashions used seal skin pelts. Sealing continues today, but as a mere fraction of what it was in the 1800s, and under much tighter controls, both for the safety of the sealers and for the protection of the seal population.

Then we went to see puffins. Thousands of them make their summer home on a huge sea stack (free-standing rock structure) just off the main shore. It was another spectacularly warm, clear day with just a light breeze – perfect for puffin watching. The views of the cliffs and the beaches and the ocean were just as enthralling as they have been each day that we have been in Newfoundland.

Elliston is the Root Cellar Capital of the World, with 133 documented root cellars to preserve vegetables and perishables. There were several good examples near the puffin path.

We headed north to Cape Bonaventure. When Italian explorer Giovanni Caboto (or John Cabot as he is locally known) first set eyes on North America in 1497, his first words were “O buono vista!” When translated into English, this phrase means “Oh happy sight!”, which is certainly fitting for what would become the town of Bonavista, the historic site of Cabot's landing. The views are spectacular.

We had lunch by the water and then found the grocery store to replenish our bread supply and then came back for a few hours of relaxation before heading back to Trinity tonight for another play.

Our last evening in Trinity was lovely. We found the place buzzing with activity as it was the last day of Trinity Festival Days. These days pull together people from the 12 communities that make up Trinity Bight. A “bight” is a bend in a coast forming an open bay. The 12 communities are: English Harbour, Champney’s East, Champney’s Arm, Champney’s West, Trinity East, Port Rexton, Trinity, Goose Cove, Dunfield, Trouty, Old Bonaventure and new Bonaventure. Each community only has 40-50 residents.

We got a pizza and ate while watching beach volleyball, horseshoes, and pickleball, and listening to live music. We entered a draw to raise funds for a new playground in Dunfield. The prize was a wheelbarrow full of booze plus a box of Tylenol. The wheelbarrow is included. Had we won, the organizer would have met up with us in Bobcaygeon next summer!

Our last performance at Rising Tide Theatre was “Maiden Voyage”, a new Newfoundland musical, full of twists and turns and based on the traditional folk song Willie Taylor. It was all the same cast that we had seen on Friday night, Saturday afternoon and Saturday night. They were starting to feel like new friends! The show was well-done, funny, and uplifting.

And to close the evening, there was a half-hour fireworks show after the theatre performance finished. We’ll remember our time in this part of Newfoundland with fondness.

Off to Twillingate tomorrow.Leer más