Italy 2019

April - May 2019
We will be visiting Rome for 3 days then enjoying a 13-day tour with Great Tours of Italy. We are looking forward to soaking up the sights and sounds and smells and tastes of Bella Italia! Read more
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  • Day 7

    Day 7 - Thur, Apr 25 - Vatican Visit

    April 25, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    It is another clear, warm and sunny day. I'm going to get a tan!! The high actually got to 28C - that's 82F. April 25th is a national holiday in Italy - it commemorates the end of Nazi occupation of the country during World War II and the victory of the Resistance.

    Simone delivered us safely into Monica's hands at the Vatican. Using her magic tickets and smiles, we skipped the long lines (even longer than usual apparently because of the holiday).

    For all you people who went on the trip to Italy for the canonization of Mother Teresa: guess who I saw? Our guide, Antonella!!! She knows Monica and they spoke briefly at the ticket desk. The world truly is small.

    The crowds were fierce - made us thankful that we only needed to 8 of us together. We got a fabulous view of the dome of St. Peter's Basilica from the outside patio of the museum area. Monica coached us on what we would see in the Sistine Chapel - there is supposed to be no talking in there.

    We toured several of the incredible galleries of the Vatican Museums. The buildings are architectural wonders and beautiful art pieces unto themselves. They display works from the immense collection amassed by popes throughout the centuries including several of the most renowned Roman sculptures and most important masterpieces of Renaissance art in the world. The grounds are beautiful - we stopped in the interior courtyard to admire the huge pinecone statue and the Sphere within a Sphere bronze sculpture by Italian sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro. Monica, she of the small stature but mighty strength, showed us that it rotates!!!

    The Vatican Museums trace their origin to one marble sculpture, purchased in the 16th century: Laocoön and His Sons was discovered on 14 January 1506, in a vineyard near the basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome. Pope Julius II sent Giuliano da Sangallo and Michelangelo Buonarroti, who were working at the Vatican, to examine the discovery. On their recommendation, the pope immediately purchased the sculpture from the vineyard owner. The pope put the sculpture, which depicts the Trojan priest Laocoön and his two sons being attacked by giant serpents, on public display at the Vatican exactly one month after its discovery.

    We saw sculptures, paintings, frescoes, vases, tapestries, fabulous mosaic floors, sarcophagi and so much more. Our eyes drank in the beauty while our ears tried to assimilate all the information in Monica's animated commentary. One of my favourites was the Sala Rotonda. It is shaped like a miniature Pantheon with impressive ancient mosaics on the floors, and ancient statues lining the perimeter, including a gilded bronze statue of Hercules.

    From there, we entered the Sistine Chapel. The Sistine Chapel is a chapel in the Apostolic Palace, the official residence of the pope, in Vatican City. Originally known as the Cappella Magna ('Great Chapel'), the chapel takes its name from Pope Sixtus IV, who restored it between 1477 and 1480. Since that time, the chapel has served as a place of both religious and functionary papal activity. Today, it is the site of the papal conclave, the process by which a new pope is selected. The fame of the Sistine Chapel lies mainly in the frescos that decorate the interior, most particularly the Sistine Chapel ceiling and The Last Judgment by Michelangelo. Between 1508 and 1512, under the patronage of Pope Julius II, Michelangelo painted the chapel's ceiling, a project which changed the course of Western art and is regarded as one of the major artistic accomplishments of human civilization. In a different climate, after the Sack of Rome, he returned and, between 1535 and 1541, painted The Last Judgment for Popes Clement VII and Paul III.

    From there, it was just a short walk to St. Peter's Basilica. This was on my "must see" list because I had not been able to go inside on my previous visit because of the tight security around the canonization ceremony.

    Designed principally by Donato Bramante, Michelangelo, Carlo Maderno and Gian Lorenzo Bernini, St. Peter's is the most renowned work of Renaissance architecture[2] and the largest church in the world. While it is neither the mother church of the Catholic Church nor the cathedral of the Diocese of Rome, St. Peter's is regarded as one of the holiest Catholic shrines. It has been described as "holding a unique position in the Christian world" and as "the greatest of all churches of Christendom".

    The basilica is the burial site of Saint Peter, chief among Jesus's apostles and also the first Bishop of Rome. Saint Peter's tomb is directly below the high altar of the basilica. For this reason, many popes have been interred at St. Peter's since the Early Christian period, and there has been a church on this site since the time of the Roman emperor Constantine the Great. Construction of the present basilica, which would replace Old St. Peter's Basilica from the 4th century AD, began on 18 April 1506 and was completed on 18 November 1626.

    "Overwhelming" is the only way to describe St. Peter's. Every square inch is a glorious bit of art. The entire interior of St. Peter's is lavishly decorated with marble, reliefs, architectural sculpture and gilding. The basilica contains a large number of tombs of popes and other notable people, many of which are considered outstanding artworks. There are also a number of sculptures in niches and chapels, including Michelangelo's Pietà. The central feature is a baldachin, or canopy over the Papal Altar, designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. The apse culminates in a sculptural ensemble, also by Bernini, and containing the symbolic Chair of Saint Peter.

    One observer wrote: "St Peter's Basilica is the reason why Rome is still the center of the civilized world. For religious, historical, and architectural reasons it by itself justifies a journey to Rome, and its interior offers a palimpsest of artistic styles at their best ..."

    Monica deftly led us out to the meeting place with Simone. Since it was a holiday and many cafés were closed, we opted for a quick visit to the local grocery store to get fixings for eating at Chez Hotel Room, something this hotel frowns upon sternly. We dodged the food police.

    Dinner tonight is at the Tivoli Gardens.
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  • Day 7

    Day 7 - Thur, Apr 25 - Tivoli Gardens

    April 25, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Simone picked us up at 4:00 p.m. and we headed east to the town of Tivoli, a lovely little place perched on the side of a hill. Our destination was the Tivoli Gardens, know more properly as Villa d’Este, a masterpiece of the Italian Garden, which is included in the UNESCO world heritage list. With its impressive concentration of fountains, nymphs, grottoes, plays of water, and music, it constitutes a much-copied model for European gardens in the mannerist and baroque styles.

    The garden is generally considered within the larger –and altogether extraordinary-- context of Tivoli itself: its landscape, art and history which includes the important ruins of ancient villas such as the Villa Adriana, as well as a zone rich in caves and waterfalls displaying the unending battle between water and stone. The imposing constructions and the series of terraces above terraces bring to mind the hanging gardens of Babylon, one of the wonders of the ancient world. The addition of water-- including an aqueduct tunneling beneath the city -- evokes the engineering skill of the Romans themselves.

    We enjoyed the gardens on a warm, clear, beautiful April night - such a joy for those of us from Ontario and Michigan! After a lovely tour, we had dinner - a loud, raucous dinner with lots of food and lots of wine. I suspect there will be more of these!!

    We start our trek north tomorrow. First stop - a winery for a wine tasting session. Good thing we practised last night!!!
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  • Day 8

    Day 8 - Fri, Apr 16 - Off to Florence

    April 26, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    We checked out of the hotel and were on our way north in the van shortly after 9:00 a.m. Everything is very green - apparently, much of the vegetation will turn brown in the fierce heat of the summer. We passed soft rolling hill and lots of small farms. We soon found ourselves officially in Tuscany - land of good living and Chianti wine.

    Our first stop was a small winery called Agricola Fabbriche Palma located near the small village of Monte San Savino. There, the sommelier, Andrea, took us on a tour of the vineyard and its cellars and explained, in just the right amount of detail, the wine making process. Then, he led us through a wine tasting will we lunched on Tuscan foods - fresh tomatoes, bruschetta with extra virgin olive oil, pecorino cheese, salami, porchetta and prosciutto, with cantucci biscuits for dessert. It was all fabulous. Some delighted travellers took the opportunity to buy some wine.

    From there, we went to Siena. The historic centre of Siena has been declared by UNESCO a World Heritage Site. Siena is famous for its cuisine, art, museums, medieval cityscape and the Palio, a horse race held twice a year. According to local legend, Siena was founded by Senius and Aschius, two sons of Remus and thus nephews of Romulus, after whom Rome was named. The Piazza del Campo, the shell-shaped town square, unfurls before the Palazzo Pubblico with its tall Torre del Mangia.

    The Palio di Siena is a traditional medieval horse race run around the Piazza del Campo twice each year, on 2 July and 16 August. The event is attended by large crowds, and is widely televised. Seventeen Contrade (which are city neighbourhoods originally formed as battalions for the city's defence) vie for the trophy: a painted banner, or Palio bearing an image of the Blessed Virgin Mary.

    I visited Siena in 2016 and got soaked by a sudden rain storm. Well, now I'm 0-2 when fighting the rain gods in Siena. We had some time to explore the town, but as we set out, the skies opened up. Doug and I took refuge in a café, hoping that the rain would end before the café's patience with non-paying customers would. Well, we eventually gave in and ordered two hot chocolate drinks. The bill came to 12 euro - that's about $20!!! Good thing those drinks were warm and tasted good. It rained on and off for the rest of our visit to this town.

    We still had some time, so we set off for the cathedral. The Siena Cathedral (Duomo), begun in the 12th century, is a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque-Gothic architecture. The ticket and security lines were really long, so we skipped seeing the inside and marvelled at the incredibly intricate exterior. The exterior and interior are constructed of white and greenish-black marble in alternating stripes, with addition of red marble on the façade. Black and white are the symbolic colors of Siena, etiologically linked to black and white horses of the legendary city's founders, Senius and Aschius.

    Siena is also the home to St. Catherine of Siena who was canonized in 1461, declared patron saint of Rome in 1866, and of Italy (together with Francis of Assisi) in 1939. She is one of the most influential writers in Catholicism, to the point that she is one of only four women to be declared a doctor of the Church.

    Our little band of cold, damp travellers hiked the considerable distance back to the bus. The town was very, very busy because of the 4-day weekend that started with yesterday's national holiday so parking was at a very, very high premium and we had to park far away from the old town centre. It took some very skillful maneuvering on Simone's part to park the van and then to get it back out of the tight spot.

    Next stop - Florence, known in Italy as Firenze. We are now settled in our hotel. We had dinner together at 8:00 p.m. in the hotel dining room. This was the first time that Simone has joined us for dinner. We will be exploring Florence/Firenze tomorrow with a local expert guide.

    It's been another fascinating day in beautiful Italy.
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  • Day 9

    Day 9 - Sat, Apr 27 - Exploring Florence

    April 27, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    At 9:00 a.m. we climbed on the bus with Simone who 30 minutes later delivered us into the hands of our local guide for our day in Florence, Tiziana. Florence was a centre of medieval European trade and finance and one of the wealthiest cities of that era. It is often considered to be the birthplace of the Renaissance. UNESCO declared the Historic Centre of Florence a World Heritage Site in 1982. Florence was home to the Medici, one of European history's most important noble families. Tiziana told us about their power and showed us the many buildings erected under their time of control.

    We saw the Florence Cathedral, formally the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, in English "Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Flower", (Italian: Duomo di Firenze). It was begun in 1296 in the Gothic style to a design of Arnolfo di Cambioand was structurally completed by 1436, with the dome designed by Filippo Brunelleschi. The exterior of the basilica is faced with polychrome marble panels in various shades of green and pink, bordered by white, (red/white/green = colours of Italian flag) and has an elaborate 19th-century Gothic Revival façade by Emilio De Fabris. The basilica is one of Italy's largest churches, and until the development of new structural materials in the modern era, the dome was the largest in the world. It remains the largest brick dome ever constructed.

    Michelangelo (1475 – 1564) was an Italian sculptor, painter, architect and poet of the High Renaissance born in the Republic of Florence, who exerted an unparalleled influence on the development of Western art. Considered by many the greatest artist of his lifetime, and by some the greatest artist of all time, his artistic versatility was of such a high order that he is often considered a contender for the title of the archetypal Renaissance man, along with his rival, the fellow Florentine and client of the Medici, Leonardo da Vinci. On Thursday, we saw his scenes from Genesis on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel and The Last Judgement on its altar wall, and one of his most famous sculptures, the Pieta in St. Peter’s Basilica. At the Galleria dell’Accademia, we saw his other famous sculpture - David - a 17.0 ft marble statue of the Biblical hero David (who slew the giant Goliath), a favoured subject in the art of Florence. Because of the nature of the hero it represented, the statue soon came to symbolize the defence of civil liberties embodied in the Republic of Florence, an independent city-state threatened on all sides by more powerful rival states and by the power and complete dominance of the Medici family. The eyes of David, with a warning glare, were turned towards Rome.

    Then we had some free time. Doug and I went to the Piazza del Mercato Centrale. The building is surrounded with little stalls selling a huge selection of Italian leather products, beautiful pashminas and lots of souvenirs. We did some shopping there and haggled quite effectively. It reminded us of the suqs that we visited in Dubai last year. We bought some lunch and did some really good people watching as we sat on the steps of the Church of San Lorenzo. We enjoyed a leisurely walk back to our meeting point with Simone, the Ponte Vecchio - an old bridge that crosses the River Arno, famous for its tiny shops selling high-end jewelry. Window shopping only for all of us!

    Our last stop was at the top of a hill where we were treated to a fabulous panoramic view over the city. It had turned into a lovely, warm, sunny day - perfect for such a viewing.

    Back at the hotel, naps were on the agenda. We met again at 7:00 p.m. Simone drove us to a restaurant perched on a hill. We drank in more fabulous views as the sun was setting. We enjoyed a fabulous 4-course dinner with lots of wine. The main part of the meal featured 5 different types of meat!! Another wonderful evening with lots of wonderful conversation.
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  • Day 10

    Day 10 - Sun, Apr 28 - Tuscany Towns

    April 28, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    On the dot of 9:00 a.m., we headed off to visit three lovely Tuscan towns - San Gimignano, Volterra and Pisa. We wound our way up and down roads through the green, green countryside. Before we actually got to San Gimignano, Simone took us down a narrow country lane so that we could get a view of the the town from outside the walls. San Gimignano is a small walled medieval hill town in the province of Siena, Tuscany, north-central Italy. Known as the Town of Fine Towers, San Gimignano is famous for its medieval architecture, unique in the preservation of 14 of its tower houses (incredible considering wars, catastrophes, and urban renewal trends), which, with its hilltop setting and encircling walls, form "an unforgettable skyline”. Unforgettable sums it up perfectly. The "Historic Centre of San Gimignano" is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Piazza della Cisterna is the main square of the town. It is triangular in shape and is surrounded by medieval houses of different dates, among them some fine examples of Romanesque and Gothic palazzos. At the centre of the piazza stands a well which was the main source of water for the town's residents. The structure dates from 1346.

    The town is full of small shops selling a wide variety of goods - souvenirs, fine wines, clothing, shoes and fabulous leather goods. We walked all over the town, enjoying the beautiful view and sampling more gelato - a triple cone of salted caramel, chocolate and creme brulée. We are going to have to keep walking to reduce the damage from that kind of decadence!

    Promptly on time, we rendezvoused with Simone - parking is a premium in these small towns - so he does a “scoop-and-run” maneuver - he stops for just a minute; we pile in; he pulls away - we have it down to a science now. We wound our way through more of the beautiful Tuscan countryside to the town of Volterra. It too is walled mountaintop town. Its history dates from before the 8th century BC and it has substantial structures from the Etruscan, Roman, and Medieval periods. The huge attraction here, besides the gorgeous views, is alabaster. It is a calcareous substance mined in the surrounding area that has been widely used for millennia since the Etruscan craftsmen carved it to obtain urns to keep the ashes of their dead. The large natural deposits of alabaster in its surroundings are considered one of the most precious around the world given its particular compactness, transparency, veins and hardness.

    The shops are full of many of the same kinds of goods as in San Gimignano, but with the addition of beautiful alabaster goods - jewelry, vases, tiny animals, chessboards and on and on. It’s mesmerizing to look at it all - such fabulous artisanship.

    Another scoop-and-run at the bus station. Next destination - Pisa, famous for its tower. The Leaning Tower of Pisa or simply the Tower of Pisa is the campanile, or freestanding bell tower, of the cathedral, known worldwide for its nearly four-degree lean, the result of an unstable foundation. The tower is situated behind the Pisa Cathedral and is the third oldest structure in the city's Cathedral Square (Piazza del Duomo), after the cathedral and the Pisa Baptistry. The tower's tilt began during construction in the 12th century, due to soft ground on one side, which was unable to properly support the structure's weight. The tilt increased in the decades before the structure was completed in the 14th century. It gradually increased until the structure was stabilized (and the tilt partially corrected) by efforts in the late 20th and early 21st centuries.

    Standing in a large green expanse, Piazza del Duomo houses a group of monuments known the world over. These four masterpieces of medieval architecture – the cathedral, the baptistry, the campanile (the 'Leaning Tower') and the cemetery – had a great influence on monumental art in Italy from the 11th to the 14th century. The Piazza del Duomo is another UNESCO World Heritage site.

    Some members of our intrepid group wanted to climb that almost 300 steps to the top of the tower, but the next available bookings were almost two hours later, well past our designated pick up time.

    Thankfully, the rain that had threatened at all three stops failed to find us, making for another excellent tourist day. Rain finally did appear on the drive to our last stop of the day - a farm and winery where we had yet another 4-course dinner with wonderfully fresh authentic Tuscan ingredients and wines made right there on the farm. It was a very quiet ride back to Florence - we were all tired and very full!

    Our destination for tomorrow is Venice, the City of Canals.
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  • Day 11

    Day 11 - Mon, Apr 29 - off to Venice

    April 29, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    With our now finely-honed military precision, we loaded the van and headed out right on time at 8:30 a.m. with our destination being Venice. It's the first day after the two-week school holiday - the traffic was fierce which put us behind schedule, but Simone is always in contact with those we will be meeting at our next stop, so everybody's schedule got adjusted accordingly. After enduring rain, traffic and having to slow down for an accident (can't believe we haven't seen more of them, given the aggressive driving style of Italian drivers), we finally arrived in Venice and rendezvoused with our expert local guide, Chiara.

    First some information about Venice.....courtesy of Wikipedia.....
    Venice, called in Italian: Venezia is a city in northeastern Italy and the capital of the Veneto region. It is situated on a group of 118 small islands that are separated by canals and linked by over 400 bridges.] The islands are located in the shallow Venetian Lagoon, an enclosed bay that lies between the mouths of the Po and the Piave rivers.

    The lagoon and a part of the city are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Parts of Venice are renowned for the beauty of their settings, their architecture, and artwork Venice is known for several important artistic movements—especially during the Renaissance period—has played an important role in the history of symphonic and operatic music, and is the birthplace of Antonio Vivaldi.

    With Chiara in the lead, we piled into a water taxi that sped across the lagoon to our destination of the island of Burano. The houses here are painted in a riot of bright colours. We enjoyed a leisurely stroll around the island and then stopped for lunch at a little restaurant that specializes in seafood. Another happy and full crowd....

    Just a few doors down there is a shop that specializes in the type of lace that is produced by an ever increasingly smaller number of women on the island of Burano. We got to watch Anna demonstrate the technique. There are 7 different stitches, and a women will specialize in only one of those stitches. The lace work is incredibly intricate but fiercely expensive because of the 100s of hours required to make even a small piece of lace.

    We jumped back on the water taxi and went back to the old part of Venice. One of the islands, Murano, is known for its glass making. We went to a store that sells Murano glass and has a small demonstration glass furnace. The artisan whipped up a vase in about 2 minutes and a rearing horse in about 1 minute. Incredible!! We did a little shopping there and headed off again with Chiara.

    She showed us St. Mark's Cathedral (where the relics of St. Mark lie), the Doge's Palace and the magnificent buildings that surround St. Mark's Square. We saw the iconic gondolas on the canals, the Bridge of Sighs, the Rialto Bridge, and the bridge where the prostitutes used to display their human assets from the windows! She took us on a meandering path through the maze of tiny streets and alleys, which often opened up onto pretty squares with a central fountain or well.

    The Bridge of Sighs is an enclosed bridge is made of white limestone, has windows with stone bars, passes over the Rio di Palazzo, and connects the New Prison to the interrogation rooms in the Doge's Palace.

    The Rialto Bridge is the oldest of the four bridges spanning the Grand Canal in Venice, Italy.

    Eventually, we got to the train station where we caught the People Mover train that took us back to where Simone was parked. We are staying at a Best Western hotel - feels very North American! We had dinner at a nearby "western" style restaurant called Galloway. It was nice to see familiar things like Western sandwiches and hamburgers and fries on the menu. No pasta tonight!!!

    Tomorrow, we will have the morning to explore the city on our own, and then we are off to Assisi.
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  • Day 12

    Day 12 - Tue, Apr 30 - Venice to Assisi

    April 30, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    It was another 8:30 a.m. departure. Simone drove us to the closest point that buses and vans can get to the old city of Venice. There we took a water taxi right to San Marco Square. It was another perfect day for sight seeing - a bit cool but sunny with no threat of rain. There were three things that we wanted to do - see San Marco Church, take a gondola ride and look for a tie for Doug to wear at our son Patrick’s wedding in early July. We scored 2 out of 3!

    The Patriarchal Cathedral Basilica of Saint Mark (Italian: Basilica Cattedrale Patriarcale di San Marco), commonly known as Saint Mark's Basilica, is the cathedral church of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Venice. It is the most famous of the city's churches and one of the best known examples of Italo-Byzantine architecture. It lies at the eastern end of the Piazza San Marco, adjacent and connected to the Doge's Palace. Originally it was the chapel of the Doge, and has been the city's cathedral only since 1807.

    For its opulent design, gold ground mosaics, and its status as a symbol of Venetian wealth and power, from the 11th century on the building has been known by the nickname Chiesa d'Oro (Church of gold). It achieves an Oriental feeling of exoticism, partly through blending Byzantine and Islamic elements, but remains unique, and essentially a product of Italian workers of all sorts.

    In 828, relics believed to be the body of Saint Mark were stolen from Alexandria (at the time controlled by the Abbasid Caliphate) by two Venetian merchants with the help of two Greek monks and taken to Venice. A mosaic in St Mark's Basilica depicts sailors covering the relics with a layer of pork and cabbage leaves. Since Muslims are not permitted to eat pork, this was done to prevent the guards from inspecting the ship's cargo too closely.

    In 1063, during the construction of a new basilica in Venice, Saint Mark's relics could not be found. However, according to tradition, in 1094, the saint himself revealed the location of his remains by extending an arm from a pillar. The newfound remains were placed in a sarcophagus in the basilica. The relics of St. Mark, now the patron saint of Venice, are interred under the main altar of the cathedral.

    Even though the cathedral didn’t open until 9:30 a.m., there was already a long line up when we arrived at 9:15 a.m. Waiting in line gave us time to watch San Marco Square fill with people and street vendors. We eventually got in - no photo taking allowed so you will have to take my word that the mosaics are incredible. The building gets little natural light, so it's hard to see the incredible details. The ceiling and the upper walls shine with gold - they are lit at 11:30 a.m. and 12:30 p.m. - alas, too late for our schedule. I particularly liked the mosaic floors - I would have loved to take pictures because so many of the designs would make fabulous quilt patterns.

    Our next objective was to take a gondola ride through the canals. We hopped into a gorgeous black and red one and enjoyed the leisurely ride. It was fascinating to see the boat traffic work without stop lights or roundabouts - lots of friendly shouting and warnings. Because it was morning, there was a lot of commercial boat traffic. As there are no cars or trucks allowed in the old city of Venice, everything - absolutely everything from toilet paper to milk must be brought in by boat. The boat must be loaded by hand at the commercial terminal near where Simone dropped us off, and then it must be unloaded by hand (technical name: “hand bombing”) at a tie up point. (We saw the hand bomb of a case of juice boxes go NOT as planned.) At the tie up point, goods are loaded into little wagons (they look like rickshaws) which are pulled by very strong men who thunder through the streets and alley ways chanting, “Attentione!! Attentione!! It’s a completely different way of life from anything that we have ever seen before.

    After our gondola ride, we wandered the streets, looking at ties. We just haven’t found the right one yet. We will continue our search at every future stop. Like pros (or perhaps with a bit of luck), we found our way back to the water taxi stand and waited and waited for our reserved taxi. No show. Karen phoned Simone who put the giddy up on the driver who arrived shortly. Back to the van and our rendezvous with Simone.

    We began our journey south - destination - Assisi. For the first two hours, We paralleled the Apennine Mountains that run down the centre of Italy like a spine. The land was mostly flat - this is farming country. We passed fields of grapes and apple trees and vegetables and grains. Then we entered the mountains and wound our way up and down valleys and through many tunnels. It was fascinating to see rows of grape vines clinging to the sides of mountains.

    After 4.5 hours, we finally arrived in Assisi which is located on a mountain. The hotel we are staying at for just one night is the same one I stayed at during my 2016 Italy visit. This hotel has a wonderful terrace that gives glorious views of the valley but it’s raining right now. Perhaps it will clear for the morning.

    Dinner will be in the hotel dining room. It’s been another good day.
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  • Day 13

    Day 13 - Wed, May 1 - Assisi & Amalfi

    May 1, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Today’s first stop was Assisi, the birthplace of St. Francis, who founded the Franciscan religious order in the town in 1208, and St. Clare, the founder of the Poor Sisters, which later became the Order of Poor Clares after her death. St. Francis shares honours with St. Catherine of Siena as the patron saint of Italy. He is also the patron saint of animals and is remembered as a lover of nature (his preaching to an audience of birds is one of the legends of his life). On November 29, 1979, Pope John Paul II declared Saint Francis the Patron Saint of Ecology.

    We met up with our guide, Francesca and did a walking tour of the town. Today, May 1st, is a national holiday in Italy when Italians commemorate the labor union movement's social and economic achievements on Labor Day. The town was festooned with red and blue flags representing the two teams of Assisi residents who compete in friendly games on Labour Day. We saw an area being set up for a cross bow competition to be held in the afternoon - alas, after our departure.

    UNESCO collectively designated the Franciscan structures of Assisi as a World Heritage Site in 2000 - we could see why - there are churches everywhere. We drank in the beautiful views and then toured the Basilica of Santa Chiara (St. Clare) with its massive lateral buttresses, rose window, and simple Gothic interior, begun in 1257. It contains the tomb of the St. Clare. This was especially moving for me as my middle name is Clare.

    Francesca told us how St. Francis wanted to be buried with the other sinners (the town criminals) and to be forgotten. Well, he got his first wish, but NOT his second wish. The entire town is a homage to him and a popular pilgrimage spot. Stores sell a huge range of Francis-related products - statues, carvings, ceramics, key chains, t-shirts…..the list goes on and on.

    We wound our way through the narrow streets to the Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi (St. Francis). This is actually two churches. The smaller, lower one contains the tomb of St. Francis. When the small church could no longer handle the massive numbers of pilgrims, a huge church was built up above it. The walls and ceilings are adorned with fabulous frescoes done by the Italian artist, Giotto. They depict scenes from the life of St. Francis, including his preaching to the birds. The colours are still vibrant and hundreds and hundreds of years. The mosaic patterns on the floor and on the ceiling and on the pillars made this quilt lady’s fingers itch to take pictures - but, alas, photos are not allowed.

    We had a bit of free time. We got some lunch in a lovely little café run by friends of two of our travellers from California. Simone did another swoop-and-run and at 12:30 p.m., we continued our trip south. Destination - the Amalfi Coast on the Mediterranean Sea. We drove through rain several times, and were finally rewarded with clear skies when we got to Salerno after 4 hours. We saw Mount Vesuvius off in the distance - we will see it again on Saturday. We are actually staying in a little suburb called Vietri sul Mare. We wound our way down, down, down the side of the hill to shore level which whetted our seaside appetites, and then partway back up the hill again to our hotel where we will be for 3 nights. Our hotel balconies are right, and I mean, right over top of the shore line. The view over the Mediterranean is enchanting.

    We are having dinner in the hotel tonight overlooking the sea. Today’s drive was well worth it for theses views!!
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