• Pikes Peak or bust

    14. september 2023, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    We had a leisurely start to the day highlighted by a shower (no showers the 3 nights in Rocky mountain NP. We then headed into Manitou Falls for a walk around town before our ride on the cog train to Pikes peak. Great scenery and views on the way up .... most of the way. When we got to the top it was snowing, so very limited visibility from there. While on top, we tried the famous pikes peak donuts, which were OK. We returned after about 45 minutes on the peak. The today trip was about 3 hours.

    After the cog ride we went to a western dinner/show at the Flying W Ranch. The ranch has been doing shows since 1953 and was recommended by a friend who was here 25 years ago. The ranch burnt to the ground ( along with over 200 houses) from a forest fire in 2012. They rebuilt and opened again in 2020. First we walked around the ranch where they had some hands on activities for kids and seeing the farm animals. Then we were entertained by native American dancers. Dinner was a chuckwagon meal of brisket, sausage, beans, baked potatoes, applesauce, bread and spice cake served in a tin plate. It was delicious. The final entertainment was a group of 5 guys with string instruments who sang western songs in 4 and 5 part harmonies. They were very good musicians!
    It was a good day!
    Les mer

  • Goodbye Rocky Mountain

    13. september 2023, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    We woke up to another cool, but beautiful morning. After some coffee and breakfast, we drove back to the east side of the park on the same road that was fog covered on our way in. It was a beautiful drive filled with rocks, forests, and plains. We were in search of the long horned sheep that roam the park but we didn't see any. We did see a bear, a moose, and did a short hike in the tundra area at an altitude of over 12,000 ft above sea level.

    We left the park and went to Garden of the Gods - fabulous red rock formations where slabs of rock seem to stand straight up. While hiking there, we saw several people rock climbing some of the formations.

    We checked into the Lone Duck campground and then went to eat at a local dive bar Definitely a locals place but the pizza was good. Not so impressed with the campground.
    Les mer

  • Rocky Mountain ...again

    12. september 2023, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    We woke up to a cold (35 F), but beautiful morning. The sun was shining and there was hardly a cloud in the sky. The stars the last night were amazing!!!! We cooked breakfast in camp - bacon, eggs, and polenta. Then we had to move sites because when we made reservations we couldn't get the same site for three nights.

    We went to the Grand Lake visitor center and then started on the Colorado River hike. We were hiking to Lulu City, a former gold and silver mining town. The town had 200 people from 1879 - 1884. Then suddenly, it wasn't producing what it thought it would, and everyone left. Supposedly there are some remains of buildings but we didn't see any. Just beyond the town marker, the trail led to a very peaceful river edge. We rested and enjoyed the scenery before heading back. The scenery was different from yesterday's hike. There were some burnt trees but far less and many, many pine trees. We saw chipmunks, squirrels, and yellow bellied marmots (like groundhogs). When we got close to the trailhead, we soaked our feet in the cold Colorado River. As we got to our car, there were 8 or 9 elk grazing by the parking lot.

    We went into the town of Grand Lake, walked around and had some ice cream. Back at camp we cooked hot dogs and baked beans and sat by the fire. We heard a pack of coyotes and some squealing. I think the coyotes had an elk dinner.
    Les mer

  • Rocky Mountain...more

    11. september 2023, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    We slept in, checked in to the campground, and got both hiking and food recommendations from the camp host making the office. The host and her husband are full time RVers for the past two years. They sold their home in Cape Cod after her restaurant failed during COVID. This is their first hosting gig (they get to stay for free but work 32+ hours per week). They leave here in a couple weeks and are hosting at a regional park in Florida for the winter.

    We started off with a 2 mile hike right from the campground to a historic dude ranch resort that started in 1920 and operated until sometime in the 70s. Easy hike for a warmup but wanted to start off slow since we were at an altitude of around 8900 ft.

    Next we hopped in the car and drove to the trailhead for Cascade falls. This was a 7 mile out and back hike without a lot of elevation change, perhaps 600 feet. Much of the trail was very rocky so spent a lot of time watching the ground. We saw deer, chipmunks, snakes and groundhogs. Much of the area was burned out from a 2020 fire but it was still beautiful. Evidently, earlier in the season it was even more beautiful as it was filled with wildflowers.

    The falls was a cascading type, no steep drop, but very beautiful.

    We ate and drank at the Sagebrush grill at the recommendation of the camp host and were not disappointed. The barbeque app had brisket, ribs, pulled pork and sausage. That and some loaded fries made a great dinner. Our server was a girl named Sawyer, nicknamed Sawyer Spilly Pants by her family due to her tendency to spill things. She and her mother moved to Grand Lake 4 years ago when she was 16. They recently bought a duplex, her mother one half and her the other. She was great to talk to, very friendly, day down at it table to talk.

    When we drove back to our campsite, we saw a moose cow and calf about 50 - 75 yards from our site.
    Les mer

  • Rocky Mountain National Park

    10. september 2023, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    We went to Boulder, CO. It is a small, cute town with a mall of shops and eateries. It is a college town so there are many things to do. We just walked around. We were going to hike at the Flatirons, but decided against it due to time and the lack of parking.

    Because we went to Boulder, we entered the park on the east side through Estes Park. We stopped at the Estes Park brewery for pizza and beer. Our campground was on the West side of the park so we had to drive through the park to get to our campground, Timber Creek. Shortly after we entered the park we saw elk in the fields. It is mating season and they are in the fields evenings and mornings.

    After that we started an upward climb. We were crossing the high point (over 12000 ft elevation) around 7:00PM where we were driving through the clouds. It was extremely foggy for 15+ miles, with visibility at times under 50 ft. Not a relaxing or scenic drive. The temperature was down to 37. We made it safely and found out the road was closed this morning because of ice, with snow on the mountain.

    Our campground is nice, but like many NPs, no showers. While we were setting up, we heard a bull elk calling.

    It rained around 11:00 pm but it didn't keep us awake. We awoke to 38 deg temperatures.
    Les mer

  • Red Rock Amphitheater

    9. september 2023, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    There aren't many things on my travel bucket list, but a concert at Red Rock was one of them and now it is checked off. Beautiful night, amazing views, and great music. We started with a short tailgate right next to the famous red rocks. Then, many steps upward we reached the amazing venue. Joy Oladokun was the opening act - very down to earth, and good original songs. After a break, Brandi Carlile took the stage for 2.5 hours nonstop. She is a very talented musician with a very talented band. We enjoyed every minute of it and pictures can't begin to describe the views.Les mer

  • Downtown Denver

    9. september 2023, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    We spend a good bit of the morning and afternoon in the historic LoDo (lower downtown) section of Denver, starting at the Union Station building. In addition to being an active transportation hub, it has a number of eateries (14?). The center court was being set up for a wedding reception.

    We did a two hour guided walking tour as part of our time there. There were about 20 in the group. Our tour guide owned the company and had been providing tours since 2017. Sounded like he had spent time bar tending and other things at giving up his career in IT, which he hated. One of the areas we visited was Larrimer Square, developed by general William Larrimer from Pittsburgh.

    While wondering, we came across Shakespeare in the Parking Lot where we got to watch a production of Romeo and Juliet.

    There appears to be a great network of trails and the streets seemed somewhat biker friendly.

    We had lunch and a beer at the Wynkoop brewery, very good.
    Les mer

  • Abilene KS to Aurora CO

    8. september 2023, Forente stater ⋅ 🌙 77 °F

    We had breakfast at Snuffy Joe's, a highly rated Abilene diner followed by a visit to the Eisenhower Presidential Library. A very nice exhibit of his childhood home, military life, time as president, and burial site. Very educational!

    Then another six plus hour drive to Aurora Colorado. We stayed on one highway for over 6 hours! There were lots and lots of open fields, cows, horses, and a lot of wind generators ( windmills). That was about all until we got closer to our destination. Then we could begin to see the Colorado mountains.

    Colorado has a lot of breweries so we stopped at our first one - A Bit Twisted. They served Texas BBQ because the owners are all from Texas now living in Colorado.

    We are spending two nights at Cherry Creek State Park. Tomorrow, Denver and Red Rock!
    Les mer

  • On to Abilene, KS

    7. september 2023, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    Today was another driving day (400+ miles) so not much in the way of pictures. We did manage to stop and visit with former President Harry Truman in Independence, MO. We figured it would be courteous since we plan to visit with Dwight Eisenhower in the morning.

    The Truman Library was worth the visit. I always enjoy learning more about history and Eileen tolerates it (she might secretly like it).

    We had dinner at the M & R Grill in Abilene. While I had a steak on my mind, I ended up ordering chicken fried steak at the waiter's recommendation. It was good.

    We took a walk around the town and topped it off with ice cream from Midwest Snow Cones and Creamery. The ice cream was good and the portions were large.

    We are spending the night at Walt's 4 Season RV Park. A nice little RV Park, will be fine for a night's sleep.
    Les mer

  • St. Louis

    6. september 2023, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    We had a leisurely start to the day at the camp site. Breakfast was coffee and left over ribs (for Jeff).

    We drove into St. Louis and toured the national park area of the Arch including the old cathedral. The cathedral was beautiful in its simplicity although it evidently didn't always look that way. There was a guide there to answer questions and he said his father had described the cathedral as looking like a Chinese whore house (the guide had asked his father what he knew about those). The old courthouse was closed for renovations so only could admire it from the outside.

    We did the trip to the top of the Arch to see the great views of the area. After, we toured the museum under the Arch. While I question the status of this as a national park (the smallest), it is definitely a worthwhile stop.

    Our next stop was the Budweiser facility. We had booked the Beermaster tour. The tour took over 2.5 hours and covered about 2.5 miles. This is an great tour and the facility and its history are very interesting. We had multiple testing opportunities including while it was still being aged and was an unfiltered 8.5% version of Budweiser. We also got to sample from the 2500 gallon finishing tanks and finished off with a visit to a tasting room.

    Dinner was pizza at the gallery pub followed by frozen custard at Ted Drew's, which is evidently a local institution.
    Les mer

  • Babler State Park

    5. september 2023, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Spending tonight and tomorrow night at this state park just west of St. Louis. We drove over 650 miles today starting in Pennsylvania and traveling through parts of West Virginia, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and into Missouri. We ate at Salt + Smoke, a great barbeque place. Tomorrow we explore!Les mer

  • Barcelona - part 3

    2. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    On Friday, we had to say goodbye to Jacque 😔. It was great spending time with her. We then took a train to tour the Montserrat Monastery in the mountains outside of Barcelona and do some hiking, Our hiking turned into more of an adventure than planned: we went to the top of the mountain with the intent of hiking to a sacred cave. However, after 2 hours of hiking down the mountain over mostly very rough terrain, we arrived near some other caves -- and almost 4 miles from where we needed to catch the train back. We tried to get a taxi (even enlisted help of a woman working at a bar) with no success so we hoofed it back. This included over 3 miles on a windy mountain road with no berm. We made the last train with 30 minutes to spare.

    On Saturday, we saw a neighborhood festival where each street/neighborhood had their own marching group with instruments. Not sure I would call them bands.

    We also spent time at the Banksy Museum, Barcelona beach and surrounding area. This included a back-home style brewery (Black Lab) founded by a couple from Chicago.
    Les mer

  • Barcelona - part 2

    1. juni 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Sagrada Familia, Park Guell - both designed by Antoni Guadi, View of Guadi's houses, Hop on Hop off bus.

    The Sagrada Familia is unlike any other church/cathedral we have seen. Jeff and Jacque were here in 2012 and would visit again. It is a work in progress, started in the 1880s with completion to continue for at least several more years.

    Park Güell is a failed urban housing experiment but an interesting park. Only 2 houses were built before world war 1 interrupted development.
    Les mer

  • Seville part 3 - bus trip to Andalucia

    30. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Andalucia's White Hills Towns - all the buildings are a shade of white. Most popular town is Ronda.

    The first village we stopped in was Zahara where one of our stupid was an olive oil mill. Next was lunch in Grazalema. The highlight of the bus trip was Ronda, a city split down the middle by a deep gorge. We spent a couple hours walking around the town, enjoying the scenery.Les mer

  • Seville part 2

    29. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Flamenco dancer show, neighborhood town of Trianna, Cathedral de Seville rooftop tour.

    We got to explore the cathedral rooftop right around sunset, making for some fantastic views. The higher we climbed on the roofs, the narrower the stairwells became.Les mer

  • Seville - around the town

    27. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    On the streets of Seville - Jacque!!!, Flamenco dancers, Plaza de Espana from the 1929 World's Fair, Alcazar castle

  • Madrid - part 3

    26. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Bar/tapa hopping. You work your way up to a usually crowded bar and order a short beer. They usually give you a sample of something. You can also order small plates. Each bar has a specialty. You stand at the bar to eat and drink. If you sit, it costs more. So much fun!Les mer

  • Madrid - part 2

    26. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    Prado Art Museum, Reina Sofia Modern Art Museum, Puerto del Sol, Plaza Mayor, Retiro Park, Royal Botanical Gardens,

    Jeff is definitely more of a Prado guy than a Sofia guy. I like the realism of the classics as opposed to the surrealism found in the Sofia.

    Retiro is a big city park with lots going on including places to eat and drink. We were there twice, including killing time before our train out of town. It was Saturday morning and there were lots of group activities going on.

    The botanical gardens had a wide variety of plants and trees but not much was in bloom.
    Les mer

  • Jeff's Musings on the Camino

    24. mai 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    This is a work in process but a collection of thoughts to date. They are in no specific order.

    -- People are with us for a season

    I encountered many people on the Camino.  Some meetings were no more than a "where are you from?" and we passed on.  Others I came to know a bit more about:  their name, whether they had done any previous caminos, but, again, we were soon parted.  Then there were those we spent several days with: not entire days but we would walk together some, share cafe breaks with, and eat dinner with.  However, soon our paths would part, usually because one of us would walk a longer day and we would become separated.  Those are the people I would think about:  "I wonder where are Lisbeth and Connie (or Dan and Heather) are now?"

    This caused me to reflect on my life and the thousands of people I have encountered on my journey through it.  People come and go throughout our lives.  Some make a big impression on us and we will always remember them.  Others, we don't even know their name.  Regardless, we are all on our own journeys and will part ways at some point.

    -- We choose what we pack

    As I traveled the Camino, I saw people with all sizes of packs. Some were so small, it caused me to think "They must have sent their pack on ahead and this is just their day pack.".

    As we traveled on, I realized I had things that I didn't really need but I didn't want to just leave them behind. I would rather travel with a heavier load "just in case", even if that meant I had to bear a heavier load and work harder with every step.

    This caused me to reflect a on my life: how much baggage have I carried that served no purpose other than to make the load heavier. How much "stuff" do I have for that "just in case" or "maybe someday" situation. How much easier would life be if I ditched all of the things I carry that have no utility.

    We all have burdens that we have to carry that might not be of our own choosing but how much do we carry that we could jettison that would "lighten our pack" and make our journey easier? This is a question I need to regularly ask myself.

    -- It's not a race or competition

    I typically have a very competitive mindset and I had to work at this on the Camino. I would see people moving faster and feel like I was falling behind. I needed to remind myself that I wasn't competing - we are all traveling at our own pace and there isn't any prize or benefit in being first. In fact, there really can't be a "first".

    This is something I want to keep in mind when the Camino ends and life continues. Although I am at a point in life where competition is not as important, it is still something I want to be mindful of. "Competition" might take the
    form of possessions or experiences (like trips). In any case, I will be happier just moving though life at my place and not trying to complete with anyone else.

    -- Enjoy the moment

    Why would it be that the last leg of a daily journey be the hardest, no matter how far being traveled that day? It seemed this was the case almost every day for me on the Camino.

    As I pondered this, I came to realize it was because I wanted to be somewhere else at that point ("done", wherever that was) and I wasn't enjoying the moment where I was.

    How much suffering have I inflicted on myself throughout life by wanting to be somewhere else, wanting to be "done" or wanting to be starting something different -- rather than just being present where I was. How much pain caused bywishing I had this or had done that?

    I need to constantly remind myself to be present in the moment, wherever I am, in whatever situation I find myself - and not living in the future or the past.

    -- Sun and clouds

    As I journeyed on my Camino, I realized that what I thought I wanted and what would be best might not be the same. Easy enough to understand wanting sunny skies and no rain. Well, I soon changed my tune and became disappointed when the forecasts of cloudy skies were wrong and all we had was sun. When rain was forecast and we only had a light sprinkle. I soon wanted cloudy or rainy days and all we had was sun! The blessing was to be found in the clouds and rain - it made the journey easier.

    All too often throughout life, I have thought I had known what I wanted or what would be best only to learn otherwise. The weather on the Camino served as a good reminder: there are blessings to be found everywhere, even when it isn't what our wishes or plans hoped for.

    -- Getting started

    As with so many things in life, getting started tended to be the hardest. And that was all in my head. Once I put my pack on and took my first steps, the "getting started" burden was lifted and the steps came easy.

    This certainly isn't a new realization for me but it serves as a great reminder for any task or goal that i need to tackle: just take the first step and get started, the rest gets easier.

    -- Eat, drink and be merry

    There were a number of things that made the first days on the Camino hard. Of course, the distances were longer than I was used to and it was hot. But beyond that, I wasn't eating and drinking enough (and that is hard for me to believe, especially the eating part). Once I realized I needed to do a better job of fueling my body, the journey got easier.

    The other thingi discovered is that by taking time to rest (and this could be combined with eating and drinking) my day became easier, but not longer because i was able to perform better.

    I have always believed in the importance of vacations and getting away from the day to day routine. However, I have not done such a good job of taking the time to relax and spend time with people on a day to day basis -- under the guise of being to busy. While I may be at a point in life where I can't legitimately use the "too busy" line, I think i need to be conscious of this and make a better effort of taking time to rest in the company of others.

    -- All journeys must end

    The end of my camino created a mixture of feelings. On one hand, it was good to have achieved the goal and to be done. On the other, I really liked the daily rhythm of the Camino: a fixed routine, ticking off the miles as we walked and the days as we progressed.

    All of our life journeys end at some point. Sometimes we choose the ending and other times it is chosen for us. The end of a journey can bring a wide range off emotions: happiness, relief, sadness, grief...... And many times it is a combination.

    We are all on a number of smaller treks that make up our life journey. Each of these treks will end at some point, as will our earthly life journey. There is nothing we can do to change that.

    Enjoy the journeys, move toward your goals, and cherish the people you meet along the Way.
    Les mer

  • Day 28 Santiago de Compostela

    23. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    We did it! 411 miles from Lisbon to Santiago. We finished today with a little over 14 hilly miles some in the forest, some on country roads, a little through the city coming into Santiago. We walked with Bryanne the entire way. She has done 4 Caminos (some partial) but has never walked into Santiago with someone, so today we were a Camino family, walking in together. Along the way we passed a lot of people we have seen over and over. It was fun to see many of them walking into the plaza, also accomplishing their goal. One man, Marco, is from Brazil and had walked across Spain to get here. He has been walking for 70 days! And a German couple has walked 10 days with their 7 month old and a 4 year old. Mom carried the baby and dad pushed a stroller. Talk about not letting your kids slow you down! We did miss seeing out Australian friend, Alek today.

    The Cathedral of Santiago is beautiful. They hold a pilgrims mass in English at 12:00 and it is packed. We weren't here in time but we were able to visit the Cathedral later.

    It is kind of surreal. Yesterday I (Eileen) was ready to be done and today I don't want it to be over. We have met so many wonderful people and had so many great experiences. We are very, very grateful!!

    From here we will be touring in Spain -- Madrid, Seville, and Barcelona. We will post pictures from each place, but not on a daily basis. Thanks for following!
    Les mer

  • Day 27 to Padron

    22. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Today was another beautiful 13.25 miles along old roman roads that are now country roads through farmland and forest areas. Today we saw real life happening as people were cleaning their houses and working in their expansive gardens. There also were goats and a lot of chickens in the yards. These last two days are more of what we expected the Camino to look like.

    Again, there were many pilgrims and yet many times it seemed that we had the trail to ourselves. The pilgrims all managed to get together at the cafes which were sufficient but not in abundance.

    We didn't meet anyone new today but did catch up with a few old friends that we haven't seen for 3 or 4 days since along the coast.

    We are at a hotel just outside of the town of Padron, so there is nothing here to explore. But the hotel grounds are beautiful and we will enjoy drinks in the garden.

    We had a wonderful dinner at the hotel with pilgrim friends Chris and Chrissy from Texas, Bryanna from Boston, and Alicia from Sweden. It is great baking friends if there Camino! Everyone is looking forward to Santiago!

    Only one day off walking left - under 25 km!!
    Les mer

  • Day 26 - to Caldas de Reis

    21. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Today was a fast 13.75 mile hike with only a 15 minute break. We had our latest start to date but ended up getting in earlier than planned to the place we were walking. The weather was beautiful again, with sunny skies and a high of 75 degrees. The terrain was mostly level and primarily on wooded lanes or paths. We encountered many pilgrims on their way to Santiago. To get the certificate for walking the Camino, one has to walk the last 100km. A lot of people just walk that amount making the trail more crowded the closer we get.

    We met Paul, a 29 year old originally from Philadelphia. He now calls Vancouver, BC home but has been traveling and living out of his backpack since December. He has been around the world on this trip, with much of it in Asia and the Pacific. He plans on being back in the USA in a month.

    We spent time this afternoon walking with Alek from Australia. We had met him yesterday. Interesting discovery from today's conversation: he is 78 years old! You would never guess.

    Only 2 more days of hiking planned. Contributing to our shorter hikes:
    - the longer days early in the trip
    - we originally planned on taking 4 rest days during the trip and will end up only taking 3.
    Les mer

  • Day 25 to Pontevedra

    20. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    12.5 miles today along some country roads and through a lot of wooded areas. It was a beautiful day to hike, in the 70's with a breeze, and beautiful scenery. The nicest day we've had since we left the coast.

    There are many more pilgrims on the trail since the two different paths merged. It is not crowded, but you can always see people in front of you and behind you. It is also an opportunity for locals to sell things along the way making it a little tacky. There was a long stretch through the woods without any where to stop and one local took advantage of it by selling fruit and drinks and set up places to sit. It was a popular place .

    Today we met Alek from Perth, Australia and walked with him for a few hours. He worked in land management and then at the age of 50 he went back to get his PhD in Environmental Science. He said it was the best thing he ever did. You are never too old to do something new, I guess! Nice guy and he knew all about the plants in the area.

    We also learned about two things that we have seen a lot but didn't know what they were.
    The first is a Horreo - a small building found in farms and most country yards. It is a grainery used to store corn, grains, and root vegetables. It is on pedestal legs so rodents can't get to the food and has vents to keep the food from molding. The oldest one dates back to the 13th century.
    The second is a lavior - a public washing area. They are big squares filled with water usually from a spring or other water source and have a covered roof. People used to wash their clothes there. These date back to at least the 17th century. They are in every older town. We did see one lady washing some towels in one.

    We didn't get our full of walking during the day so we probably walked another 2 miles or so during late afternoon and evening exploring the town.

    Only three walking days left!
    Les mer

  • Day 24 Vigo to Redondela

    19. mai 2023, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Vigo is a rather large city and the first 2 miles were through the edge of town. Imagine walking for 2.5 miles through Oakland or South Side going slightly uphill the entire way. Not very exciting. After getting through town we went straight up and then hit some beautiful forest and country areas with the ocean within view for part of the time.

    It was a short day of only about 11 miles and our last day on the coastal trail. Now we meet up with all of the pilgrims traveling on the central path. There is a cafe where the two trails come together and there were many pilgrims there. We met a young man from Lisbon who is doing the Camino backwards from Santiago to Lisbon. Today was the first day that we didn't see any country animals. :(
    Les mer

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