• Kirk and Anna Lively and Laird
  • Kirk and Anna Lively and Laird

Nepal and Bhutan, 2026

A 24-day adventure by Kirk and Anna Read more
  • Trip start
    April 19, 2026

    Kathmandu, April 22,2026

    April 22 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We overnighted at the Hampton Inn, Seattle on April 19. Flew Cathay Pacific to Hong Kong then to Kathmandu. Checked into our hotel, the Yak and Yeti, near midnight. A very lavish wedding was nearing its end in the courtyard grounds below our sixth floor room, 642. On Wednesday, while we were still trying to accommodate the time change we walked to the Thamel shopping district, lots of stores sell trekking gear as well as cashmere, metal statuary, tea, and souvenirs. We bought some shirts and a bag, had tea and a soda (for less than one dollar total) at a little cafe, then visited the Garden of Dreams for 500 rupees each - about three dollars. More police and uniformed guards, including private security than any place I've been to before. Perhaps because the US Embassy has a giant recreation and service center (e.g. commissary) here. No traffic signals, but lots of traffic police.Read more

  • Second day in Kathmandu, Nepal

    April 23 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Cindy and Kim arrived this morning after flying in from Istanbul. We caught up at breakfast. By early afternoon we were headed out to visit the Narayanhiti Palace. The most famous event there was the massacre of nine members of the royal family, including the King and Queen by one of their sons, the crown prince. who also shot himself in the head, was named King, then died three days later, his crown passing to his brother who was at Chitwan when the massacre occurred. Cameras not allowed so I don't have photos from a tour of the palace. From there we headed to Thamel, the shopping district, where we explored, made some purchases and eventually had dinner at an outdoor restaurant, the Northfield Cafe and Jesse James Bar.Read more

  • First day with Gate 1 tour

    April 24 in Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    First full day on the tour. Fascinating day of visits to the oldest stupa (a Buddhist religious dome) in Nepal, Swayambhunath, with rhesus monkeys, then a visit to Durbar Square with its palaces and temples, most of which were flattened by a 7.8 earthquake in 2015, which have been rebuilt by foreign donations, a blessing by the child goddess. Kumari, a rickshaw ride through the commercial heart of Kathmandu, then our bus to a nice 7th floor hotel restaurant for lunch followed by a demonstration of how to make momo's and then we got to try it, then a short walk thru Kathmandu's helter-skelter traffic to the charming largest stupa in Nepal, Boudhanath, with a blessing by a Buddhist monk and bestowa; of a kata. Our evening ended with a traditional Nepalese dinner with entertainment by performers of traditional dances.Read more

  • Bhaktampur, Nepal

    April 25 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Fascinating day. Much of the day spent in Bhaktapur, Nepal amidst a medieval town of brick buildings, Hindu temples, and earthquake damage. After lunch we visited a site on the Bagmati River where the deceased are cremated in a procedure that seems bizarre to us westerners. And sacred cattle were on site. In the evening we listened to a lecture by Maya Sherpa, a native woman who has summitted Mt Everest three times. Afterwards at dinner we listened to rain falling on the roof after four months of no rain. The air was so much nicer as we walked back to our hotelRead more

  • Chitwan National Park

    April 26 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Kathmandu to Bharatpur is only a 25 minute flight, but early morning rainstorms closed airports delaying flights for a couple hours. We finally arrived in Bharatpur about 1 p.m to take a one hour bus drive thru a small prosperous city, then thru a rural countryside of rice, corn, and banana plantations, arriving at the Temple Tiger Green Jungle Resort, just outside the boundaries of Chitwan National Park, on the border with India. A lunch of local foods and we were off for a three hour jeep truck safari. We saw one horned rhinos, three species of deer, wild boars, native peacocks during mating season, rhesus monkeys, in the trees, domestic elephants with riders, and local people walking out of the park with enormous loads of vegetation on their backs to feed their animals. We also huddled for about ten minutes in ponchos and under umbrellas in the back of the jeeps (Tata brand made in India and modified for safari use in Nepal) as a thunderstorm unloaded on us with giant raindrops. Then a naturalist talk for 45 minutes about the park's critters. To top things off as we were preparing to sleep for the night, we had what was likely a civet getting some exercise on the roof of our elevated duplex cabin building.Read more

  • Chitwan National Park, 2nd Day

    April 27 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Crocodiles and rhinos and elephants and hornbills, oh my! Today began with an elephant demonstration with a 55 and 25 year old elephants. Then we crossed to the south side of the Narayani River to explore Chitwan National Park that borders the India border. Fish crocodiles can be seen at a distance. Animals in the jungle including giant hornbill birds. No Bengal tigers but we did see tiger footprints. One beautiful wildflower: turmeric. One monitor lizard. Lunch at the top of a three story rickety tower. Returned to the resort for a dip in the pool, a performance by local young adults (Thanu tribe) that was pretty amazing, followed by dinner. Another very good day.Read more

  • Pokhara, Nepal

    April 28 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Our morning started with coffee and peanut butter cookies delivered to our cabin door. After packing and breakfast we visited a local village and homes and then a school funded, in part, by Gate 1. Gate 1 was also funding construction of a new modern school on site. We then flew to Pokhara. After check-in at our hotel, Temple Tree, and lunch there, we headed out to see the Gurkha museum - dedicated to the training and exploits of these legendary soldiers. After few hours free to explore and shop five of us met at a nearby restaurant, Med5, in the midst of a torrential downpour. The streets were flooding. We saw two fall in the rushing waters, including one from our group. A sandal disappeared and was relocated at the grate to a nearby storm drain.Read more

  • Pokhara, Nepal

    April 29 in Nepal ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    Our day in Pokhara began with a before sunrise visit to the World Peace Pagoda high above Pokhara and the lake. On a clear day there is a great view of the snow-capped Annapurna Range but our visit had overcast skies and intermittent fog. After a bus ride we climbed several hundred steps to the pagoda (stupa in Nepalese) accompanied by the sounds of very happy birds and a drumbeat from somewhere above in the fog. Closer we found a Japanese monk and his caucasian assistant each beating a drum and chanting. We visited the pagoda in our socks then returned to our hotel for breakfast. The next stop was the Mountain Museum - dedicated to mountain climbers and peoples of the mountains. A visit to a beautiful Hindu temple famous for quick weddings, followed by a nice lunch at the Dunga Restaurant overlooking the lake. Dinner at the home of a Tibetan refugee family, here since the late 1950s or early 1960s.Read more

  • Pokhara to Kathmandu, Nepal to Timphu, Bhutan

    April 30 in Nepal ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    Returned to Kathmandu in the morning by plane. Visited the Patan area, known historically for metal working and now for beautiful ancient temples and a palace. Our evening was spent with a short discussion on the Buddhist and Hindu religions and a dinner in the "mansion" of a prosperous family. (Five employees for the property). The next day we were up early for a flight to Paro, Bhutan, which afforded us great views of the Himalayas including Mt. Everest. Paro has the most attractive terminal building I've ever seen. A one hour mountain drive to the Bhutan capital, Timphu, with some explorations of the downtown area from our very nice hotel.Read more

  • Timphu, Bhutan, May 2, 2026

    May 2 in Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    On our first full day in Timphu, Bhutan, the capital, we visited the Takin Preserve which has a collection of takin, the national animal of Bhutan, and a blue sheep, a species of mountain sheep, sambha deer, of which two large bucks were practicing sparring, cute barking deer running around the enclosure, a gorah, yaks, and a couple of colorful native birds. A short visit to the museum of a traditional medicine hospital/clinic. The Bhutan government pays for both traditional and western medicine for the people. Lunch at a nice tourist restaurant including the national dish: a sauce of cheese and slices of mildly spicy peppers. We then visited a small handmade paper factory (making about 300 sheets per day mostly for Buddhist writing) and the traditional crafts next door of weaving (a small table runner - absolutely stunning- was $3800 US), thanga painting (highly detailed, often geometric paintings), and wood mask carving. With the rest of the afternoon free, we visited the souvenir stalls and bought a couple of table runners - with a young woman weaving table runners in the stall. Fun day!Read more

  • Day two in Timphu, May 3, 2026

    May 3 in Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Our first visit today, in Timphu, Bhutan, was to the National Memorial Chorten constructed in 1974, which, like most things in this country commemorates something having to do with one of the last five revered kings. Note: the current king is 44 and has one wife. His father, the previous king who abdicated in favor of his son, is 70 and has four wives. It is a Buddhist temple with beautiful prayer wheels and many, many faithful with rosary beads walking clockwise around the monument/temple. Our next stop was the Buddha Dordenma, also known as the Big Buddha, the biggest sitting Buddha in the world. It is an astonishing temple that cost $300 million to build, is 169 ft tall, painted bronze, made elsewhere and assembled on site. 100,000 eight inch brass Buddhas inside along with 25,000 12 inch brass Buddhas. Incredible interior which we were not allowed to photograph. Had a pleasant conversation with a body-builder and a bicyclist from Bangalore, India. A hike up and around the hill above the Big Buddha for very good views of the valley below, the Big Buddha, blue pine trees, and red flowered rhododendrons. Hike followed by a catered picnic lunch that was rather fun. Our last visit for the day was an odd visit to a Buddhist monk astrologer who provided the basic astrologic information for each of our birth years. One funny note was a small banner for Lions Club International on the wall of the room probably from Graz, Austria. The monk and our guide thought it was a banner for a soccer team. The second funny item was watching part of a Bhutan archery competition on the monk's TV. The teams were hilariously teasing their opponents while female cheerleaders were actively working to distract the archers. Archery is the national sport of Bhutan. For dinner we were dressed up in traditional Bhutan clothes of a gho for men and a kira for women by hotel staff. Kinda fun! At dinner we were joined by an equal number of local school children who had good English skills. Mine was 12 yr old Rigzin. Anna had five year old Muksa. Extremely bright kids in the group. Very impressive in terms of English and gracious courtesy. Sad to say that many Bhutanese are emigrating. The kind of government here does not provide for economic opportunity but for a small minority.Read more

  • Timphu to Punakha, May 4, 2026

    May 4 in Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    We traveled on our bus from Timphu (elev. 7,567 ft) to Punakha (elev 4.500 ft) via Dochala Pass at over 10,000 ft. Shortly after leaving Timphu we viewed the Big Buddha across the valley and at the same time the nearby oldest Dzong (fortified castle) in Bhutan. At the pass we visited the commemorative stupas (monuments) and the meditation caves and enjoyed hot lemon ginger tea at the cafe. Continuing we stopped to visit the Royal Botanical Gardens with 40 species of rhododendrons and a video about the park, then on to lunch at the White Dragon Hotel in the Punakha area. After lunch we visited the impressive Dzong of Punakha which was the capital of Bhutan until it was relocated to Timphu in 1955. Gorgeous temple (with 100 pillars) and grounds at the fork of two rivers where the kings of Bhutan are coronated. Our last stop of the day involved a steep and curving drive up to a nunnery built in 2015 by the mother of the four queens who are married to the 4th king of Bhutan (who abdicated about 26 years ago in favor of his now 44 year old son). We saw an 8 year old girl returning to the nunnery dressed in nun's clothes. Supposedly this is a life-long commitment that cannot be reversed. That did not set well with us. In the early evening, our tour leader, Sonam, gave us a lesson on mandala. Then in three groups we used five colors of rice to create our own mandala. Then we finished the day with a well-deserved dinner - again native foods including vegetables and curries. Pretty good stuff..Read more

  • Punakha to Paro, May 5, 2026

    May 5 in Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    May 5, a morning walk to the Temple of Fertility, then a bus ride from Punakha to Paro with stops at a 300 plus years old house built of timbers and large adobe blocks for lunch followed by a dance performance by eight dancers and a couple of musicians. Very entertaining. A stop at the chain bridge, a 15th century project. Then a visit to a small incense factory where herbs and plant parts are ground to a fine paste, extruded into thin rods by a press, then packaged and sold. In the late afternoon we arrived at our upscale hotel, Naxsel, with a distant view of the Tiger's Nest monastery/temple complex high on a cliff on the other side of the valley.Read more

  • Hike to The Tiger's Nest, May 6, 2026

    May 6 in Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We spent the day hiking (start at 6:12 a.m.) to the Tiger's Nest near Paro, Bhutan. It's about six miles with an elevation gain of about 1600' with a top elevation of over 10,000 ft. The Tiger's Nest is a complex of small temples honoring Guru Rimpoche from the 8th century. Very fun and picturesque hike. Pretty red rhododendrons in the forest, Tea at the mid-way cafe hiking up and hiking back. Light rain on part of our way down,Read more

  • Last day in Paro, Bhutan

    May 7 in Bhutan ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Our last day in Bhutan was a typical tourist day. Visits to the oldest Buddhist temple in the country; the National Museum, in a seven story 15th century watch tower; the Dzong [fortress] of Paro just below the watch tower; another opportunity to create a sand mandala at a tourist shop, lunch at a 2nd floor restaurant in town, and a visit to a beer brewery. Packed for an early return to Kathmandu in the morning.Read more

  • Paro, Bhutan to Kathmandu, Nepal, May 8, 2026

    May 8 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    A 7am flight (May 8th) from Paro, Bhutan to Kathmandu, Nepal meant alarm clocks set for 4 a m. Flew Drukair, Royal Bhutan Airlines. We arrived at 8 am. The Hotel Yak and Yeti let us in to our rooms by 10 am. We spent the afternoon shopping in the crowded streets of the Thamel District then had a fun dinner at the Northfield Cafe with chicken masala (served by our good natured server, Kumar) as the choice of four of five diners. Another good day.Read more

  • Chandragiri Hills, Cable Car, Rides, Resort Lunch

    May 9 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    On Saturday, May 9th, most of our Nepal and Bhutan group were heading out to home or their next adventure. Five of us, here in Kathmandu for the day, took the opportunity to hire a vehicle and driver to visit Chandragiri Hills. The cable car at the base took us up 3,280 ft in about ten minutes to a resort, recreation area and Hindu temple at an elevation of about 8,370 ft. Hundreds of locals dressed up in holiday finest were worshiping at the Temple and enjoying the nice day. We were about the only westerners on site. We rode up the cable car with a couple who were headed to the resort to celebrate their 25th wedding anniversary. We saw them later when we had lunch at the resort. I did the skywalk and the 200 meter zip line. Cindy smoked out an opportunity to take advantage of the resort shuttle van to take us down a very steep winding road, a few hundred feet in elevation, to the resort for a luxury lunch. After lunch we explored the resort and Cindy dipped her toes into the infinity pool. Back up, on the shuttle, to the cable car, back to the base, meet up with our driver, returning to the hotel, including a lengthy time behind a small truck with some cows and some teenage boys. I should mention that on the way from the hotel to Chandragiri Hills we passed a parade of Lions Club members and supporters. We finished the evening in the hotel bar with cosmopolitans, wished our friend, Elana, a safe trip home to New York, and traded injury stories and humorous stories with the bar supervisor. Fun!Read more

  • Kathmandu to home, May 11 and 12

    May 11 in Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    After shopping and a massage and swimming laps in the pool, eating lunch and dinner in the city and dodging rain and traffic in the Thamel District, we embarked on a Cathay Pacific airbus 330 to Hong Kong near midnight on the 11th of May, then an airbus 350 to Seattle, then the Wenatchee Shuttle to Wenatchee, then a ride with Marci to home. More than 30 hours of traveling turned Kirk into something of a zombie - cured by a night of solid sleep.Read more

    Trip end
    May 12, 2026