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A Camino calls...
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  • Helen White

A Camino calls...

Camino Portugues 2025 Read more
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    Helen WhiteA Camino calls...Traveler

    The journey home

    October 1 in England ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Here I am sat on the flight back to the UK. 

    This morning has been a whirlwind. I had a better night sleep. The alarm sounded at 5.20. A quick coffee (so glad i packed some sachets in my pack) and an apple. A check of the room, then a double check. 

    As I left the accomodation with my pack on, I took time to enjoy the morning coolness. Caminha was still sleeping.

    There were very few passengers on the train, and I managed to sleep almost the entire 2 hour journey.

    Porto....now that was a different story. The train station is big,  and I needed to catch the metro which was from another station.  There is a labyrinth of paths leading to different platforms, to the buses, to the metro to the city....

    It was completely overwhelming after the peaceful sanctuary of the Camino.

    Time was not on my side so a taxi it was. A lovely young man from el Salvador. Good conversation though a slow journey- Monday communter hour is the same the world over.

    I arrived with just under 20 minutes to spare before baggage checkin closed!  

    The flight back? A time of sleep, reflection and planning for the next Camino. I ran through my kit in my head, remembering to note the things I need before my next Camino.

    A water bladder is top of the list. An additional pair of toe sock liners. Restock the footcare kit and thats it.  I was really please that there was nothing I carried that I didnt need-except the insect repellant. Equally I did not come across anything I was missing.

    Verdict on the new backpack? Super pleased with it and worth the investement. It was comfortable to carry even after the fall. Spacious without all those additional pockets that some have-the pockets that cause you to forget where everything is. The simplicity is key

    My feet survived well with 108 miles walked (an average of 18 miles a day) and no blisters even with 28 degree days.  I think at last I have the footcare/sock liner/socks/boots combination worked out.

    No this isnt how I wanted things to end, but it isnt the end. I will book in to see the physio to get this knee back on track. I will keep up the walking and I'll be back on the trail Spring 2026.

    Just which trail....now that is yet to be decided. Perhaps finish the Portugues....though only if Eric and Karlin don't tempt me to do a different one. (And tempt me they are trying!) Then the Camino del Norte in Autumn!    Read more

  • Helen WhiteA Camino calls...Traveler

    A day for reflection

    September 30 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    The final day on a Camino is always an emotional one for so many reasons, but more than that, it is one of reflection.

    Most of the dorm were walking to Caminha and then taking the water taxi across into Spain. Kristen a young Austrian woman who I have walked with a few times was planning to stop in Caminha and rest her blisters. She headed off early with the others. That left just Pippa and I. Pippa is a 60 something yr old retired physio and a Kiwi.
    Pippa is lovely. We get on really well and it was lovely just to have a leisurely walk along side the water with good company and good conversation.

    We stopped at a little over 3 miles for breakfast and a coffee. We were joined by Cami from Utah. Cami is loud and funny and this is her first Camino.

     We had some interesting conversations this morning. Cami was critical of a woman who was carrying a laptop and working part time while walking. She was firm in her belief that it was simply wrong. I guess we all see things differently as my response was simply...how amazing is it that you can work and still enjoy the pleasure of walking. How amazing is it that technology allows the flexibility. It truly is about perspective, and ours were completely opposite. The one thing I think the Camino quickly teaches you is tolerance and not to judge.

    Every day there are discussions from those who feel they know best. Those that preach the right way to do it. The right footwear. The right time to walk. The right weight to carry. Thankfully, those people are the minority.

    In order to become more inclusive-and there is also an economic factor to it, there are companies who will take your luggage from one accommodation to the next for a small fee.
    This requires that you prebook your accommodation and that it can't be at a public albergue. You then carry a small day pack while the bulk of your luggage is transferred for you.

    Though I do think it is a great idea for a lot of people who would otherwise not be able to consider completing a Camino, I also feel it has the potential to create a division .

    Yesterday I found myself trudging along in obvious discomfort, in full sun with a full pack. I was hot, sweaty and tired. I turned a corner and there she was....a tall slender woman sauntering along like she was passing a leisurely afternoon in a park. She was dressed in a linen looking shirt, a white straw hat with a pink ribbon, new white trainers and carrying the smallest of day packs.

    Did I judge her - yes. Out of a moments envy at the thought of feeling so clean and fresh. It was hard not to. We actually walked a while together and shared lunch. Cynthia is American from Los Angeles. She told me she could think of nothing worse than staying in the public albergues in shared dorms or carrying all her kit. Worst of all she couldn't bear the thought of only having two sets of clothing.

    Despite our obvious differences it was an interesting walk. All the things she could not bear to think about are the things that make the Camino for me.

    The experience of albergues and building strong relationships with fellow pilgrims of all ages and all walks of life's and from so many different countries is a huge part of the magic of a camino- that cohesive bond that can't be broken. The sharing of experiences, of knowledge, support and genuine concern for each other. The sharing of food, blister patches and generally anything you can to help a pilgrim in need.
    We share moments in time but so much more. As I have walked this past week, I have been accompanied by the memories of the Pilgrim's I have met previously. Conversations come back and I find myself wondering what became of so many of them. There are many I am still in touch with

    There is no right or wrongs in carrying or not carrying your own pack. There are times when because of injury having that service must be a godsend for many. Personally for me part of the challenge is in carrying my pack. It adds that extra dimension and I think is the difference between an everyday walk versus a pilgrimage. It is a personal opinion . It means you truly have to consider what is essential versus bringing the niceties.

    Anyway...back to today. The walk led us through a pretty forrested area to the beach. With the exception of a couple of inclines it was a nice walk. The walk along the water was pretty and refreshing.

    In Caminha we caught up with Kirsten and a couple of Polish pilgrims, and enjoyed a relaxing drink before heading off to our accommodations.

    I opted for a private room out of neccesity. I have a train to catch at 6.15 to get to Porto. Waking up a dorm of pilgrims at 5.30 is not good!

    This evening I sat by the water watching the sunset. I was joined by Pippa who caught sight of me as she was passing. It was a lovely way to end the Camino.

    Today I have a much better perspective on it all. I don't feel defeated. Rather I am proud of the fact I have walked over 100 miles in the past 6 days. I have met the most incredible pilgrims. I have experienced the gracious hospitality of the people of Portugal and I have enjoyed revisiting this beautiful country. I have felt the love and kindness of those who have helped me since my fall. Most of all, though? I have been reminded of how many good people I have in my life, and how very lucky I am. Yes the Camino sprinkled it's magic on me.

    More to write in the coming days.

    Miles walked today 12.13
    Steps 25125    Read more

  • Helen WhiteA Camino calls...Traveler
    1

    A slow and steady day

    September 29 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    The decision this morning was to suck it and see. I had no idea how things would pan out, but I also knew that if I did not try, I would always wonder.

    So the plan was an early start, but taking it slowly and walking 11 ish miles instead of the 18 originally planned. I also stuck along the litoral route, meaning I could avoid one of the steep inclines. The issue is that as it is an unofficial route, markings can be scant

    It was a nightmare attempting to get my pack on my back, and then adjusted it as lifting my right arm at all increased the pain in my chest, as did reaching across with my left arm. To be fair, once it was on, I was able to use part of the strapping as a sling to support my right arm and decrease the movement for my chest. Downside was no using poles.

    Once out of town, the initial sections were pleasant and so scenic. I could never bore of the coastline here. It was spotted with ancient mills and alive with birdlife.
    Then, the path led through light forest, on a combination of gravel, cobbles, bitumen, and sand.

    And then I turned a corner, and my heart sank. A long uphill. It's a bugger as invariably you breathe deeper, and that hurts.

    I walked alone for much of the morning as I needed to think through plans.

    Through all three Caminoes, I have learnt something, and the Camino has lessons for us. Perhaps the one from this one is one of truly accepting limits.

    If I am honest, I did not expect to get to Prai de Ancora today without resorting to a taxi- but I did. In fact, it was closer to 15 miles.

    I am in a dorm directly across from a lovely beach.

    With support and words of wisdom from family and friends, I have accepted that this Camino for me will be ending with a flight home on Wednesday.

    A tough call and one we all dread ever having to make. But it is the right one. Any doubts went out the window when I just tried to.lay down......bloomin heck that hurt.

    The reality is that my knee also needs sorting. It's been the least of the problems today but remains painful and swollen.

    On the Camino as we all tend to walk similar stages each day, we all start to get a little run down by the end of the first week. That was clear last night with 2 people in my dorm with chesty coughs- the last thing I can afford atm

    There's more to be written but I need to try and get some sleep.

    5 miles ish tomorrow and then that's it.

    Miles walked today. 18.67
    Steps 38708

    Blister....zero. ( Though I'd gladly trade blisters atm)    Read more

  • Helen WhiteA Camino calls...Traveler

    Fireworks and falls...

    September 29 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Last evening we were really treated to a spectacular fireworks display.

    When we first arrived the nun told us we had to be in by 10.00 or would be locked out. Several people were frustrated as the fireworks were to start at 9.30.

    Lights were out just after 9.00 and many were asleep when an almighty bang happened. We were treated to extensive and impressive fireworks.

    My bed was with 8 others up on what I think was a stage or the like. From the corridor you go up one step, along about a foot and a half, then up 3 further steps. It is a polished wooden floor and steps with no railing.

    OK the scene is set.

    I got up to go to the bathroom, and in the process (in the dark as there is no switch nearby) I missed the edge of the first step as my knee buckled. Falling hard, landing with the tred of the lowest step impacting my ribcage while my head impacted the floor.
    Result- small cut to forehead, glasses are minus a leg, painful wrist and knee, and what I thought was bridging to my ribs, but am now wondering if I have cracked one. Not the best end to an evening    Read more

  • Helen WhiteA Camino calls...Traveler
    My normally knobbley knee

    Camino lessons

    September 28 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    So today has ultimately been a lesson in understanding, and more so, trying to accept my limits

    As I was walking today I was struck by the thought that when you are struggling with the uphill hurdles that life throws at you, just like the Camino, you wish for a change in direction. The only thing is that you should be careful what you wish for. For infact, the downhills often take a greater toll. That's sure been the case with my knee

    I set out knowing just like the last Camino that this would always be a huge ask of my body, and perhaps more so than for a lot of other people.

    By and large, all those years when Neurosarcoid was active are behind me- well for now. I let myself forget just how bad things were. I'm too busy getting on with life.

    The reality is my knee had arthritis in it years ago. It's also been injured in two car accidents. The high dose steroid infusions that saved my sight caused necrosis of the base of my femur behind my knee, and then a sarcoid growth on the bone added to the problem. Surgery helped, but about ten years ago now, I was told I would need a knee replacement.

    I also have a residual weakness it the same leg because of the sarcoidosis, meaning that I have to consciously remember to lift that leg when I am tired or I trip and fall.

    So what do I do... take up walking Camino's. The plan for tomorrow had been another 18 miles, but I'm laying here, not even sure I could make 3 miles.

    I'm neither ready nor prepared to call it quits just yet.

    So, sarcoid today, you may have knocked me down, but damn you all it's done is force me to face reality and come back with a counter offer.

    Tonight, my knee is again retaped. It's been iced, and anti-inflammatory gel applied then the knee brace. I've popped my regular daily Codeine and pregabalin as without them, I couldn't function day to day on a normal day

    I've booked a beachside dorm for tomorrow night. It's a little over ten miles away. Prebooking means I have time to go slow. Though at the moment I am thinking it is more likely I will get a taxi. Rest up and then taxi back here in a couple of days to resume my Camino.

    Feeling a lot less disheartened than a few hours ago    Read more

  • Helen WhiteA Camino calls...Traveler

    A day of heat hills and eucalyptus

    September 28 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Well, last night was a night of little sleep. Despite a comfy bed, the dorm was warm. I have biten by sand flies or something similar and scratched all night. Oh, and there was the token snorer. The wind howled which in a strange way was calming.

    Early start this morning. Out walking by 7. The morning was unexpectedly warm after the storm last night. The trail was varied and meandered through small villages, all with that sleepy Sunday silence.

    I had yoghurt before leaving the dorm, so the first stop was coffee after about 5.5 miles. I recalled stopping there with Sian on my first Camino. Funny how memories come flooding back.

    My day started walking with Ali - the Scottish Bristolian. She walks fast, and a) my knee is an issue at the moment, b) I wanted a more leisurely pace and c) I fancied some alone time.

    By the coffee break we had parted though I am sure our paths will cross again. Coffee was with Rebecca from Nottingham. She's in her mid 20s and walking alone.

    I enjoyed the solitude of the eucalyptus forest. The distinct aroma is a strong reminder of Australia. The dampness under the canopy with the rising temperatures led to it being extremely humid and difficult to breathe. All the same it was beautiful

    The trail led up some steep inclines, on uneven and rocky ground. Difficult to traverse, but nothing compared to the couple trying to take their ebikes up!

    I walked one uphill with James from America. He's in his 60s and struggling with a knee and ankle injury. I've been thinking about him as I am sat gereby the ri er, wondering if he made it to town or not. The insane thing is the weight of his pack....17kilograms!

    The guideline is about 10 percent of your body weight. We were joking last night in the dorm at the random stuff we have carried and the weight of our packs. I have a few luxury coffee sachets, travel Ted- christened by Lydiia on my last Camino as Santi. I have hand cream. Otherwise, everything is a need, not a want. My pack came in at around 5.8kg without the water. Yani, a young German med student, confessed hers weighed 11.5 kg and that everything was essential! Although she then took some convincing that the sun screen she considered ditching was far more essential than a lot of other things. They say we pack our fears.

    Today's walk has been tough as my knee is not enjoying itself. Despite tape, pressure sleeve, medication, and creams, it constantly reminds me of its presence. The poles today helped, but not enough.
    The last mile into town....I could have cried. It was relentless. The sun was hot - forecast 29 today.
    The albergue tonight is in a convent! We have been reminded duly that we are pilgrims and should behave as such. That the doors are locked at 10.00 and not a minute after and we must be gone before 8am. Rules aside, I love the feel of the place. I'm in a room with 8 others. It's a mixed dorm and all single beds instead of bunks-bonus.
    The downside is the room is up 2 floors and the kitchen is down 2 floors.
    Hand washing is done, and hopefully, it'll dry before bed
    Tonight will be an early to bed night or at least early to lay on the bed and rest my knee
    Viano do Costello is a really pretty town.last time I was here it was heavy rain so it's nice to see it in a different light.
    Tonight, I need to rest rather than sight see.

    Miles walked 21.38
    Steps 44309
    More to be written later....    Read more

  • Helen WhiteA Camino calls...Traveler
    The beauty of an early startCamino fashion?

    A storm is brewing....

    September 27 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Later start this morning after a peaceful night...and not one snorer in our dorm (yes, I did clarify with roomies that I did not snore).

    The walk today was to be to Marinhas, but the plan changed as the tail end of Hurricane Gabrielle is forecast to hit today. The second reason was that it was inland, and I wanted to be on the coast. So, the destination changed to Esposende.

    I started on my own, which felt good. Some thinking time and chance to enjoy the peaceful quiet of the morning. Initially, the trail was along the coast and the chance to enjoy the fresh salty air.

    Then I was joined by Ali, who I met yesterday. She lived in Scotland but was originally from Bristol. She started walking 18 days ago in Lisbon and is a retired policewoman.

    We figured coffee/breakfast was about 5 miles in. Needless to say, we missed a turning and, as a result, missed breakfast!

    The walk was a mix of beach, board walks, and some road and pavement walking. The difficulty is that Portuguese roads and foot paths are largely square cobbles that can be uneven and relentless on the feet.

    Along a stretch of forest there was a decorated tree and a stand offering pilgrim necklaces for a donation, along with a stamp for our pilgrims passports which reads On the Way we are never alone.

    We were joined by Andrea from Richmond, Virginia. She and I walked together for a while while Ali walked ahead. Andrea is a very politically minded person with some rather interesting and strong views that she enjoyed sharing.

    Breakfast was half an hour before arriving at our destination for the night. The albergue here is lovely. We have sheets and a duvet, and even a towel.....OK for those who don't know, this is not the norm and the reason we all carry travel towels and a sleeping bag or sleeping bag liner. Each bed, though bunks, has a curtains that can pull across for privacy. There is a pool. The showers have hot water! Like lovely and hot, and the kitchen is great. Happy pilgrims tonight.

    I had a walk to the beach to enjoy the wind and the rain. There is nothing quite like the beach on a stormy day to make you feel truly alive. The cool wind strong enough you can't catch your breath. It was incredible to watch the storm coming in. It's pretty wild out there tonight. But, someone is watching over me, and the reason is due to subside by 5am .

    The dilemma in going to the beach in the rain was trying to keep tomorrow's footwear dry....so yes I succumbed to socks and sandals... and if you're going to look a sight why not go the full way? Photo attached...

    Dinner tonight was tuna, a hard boiled egg (because if not I'll be carrying them forever-having got half dozen yesterday to cook an omelette I boiled the others up. Little did I know you can buy them singularly here! How great is that?) a salad, some humous and crackers followed by fresh fruit. Oh and I even have a yoghurt for breakfast, some fruit courtesy of a farmers market, and some bread for the road tomorrow

    This evening has been such fun. I'm in a dorm of ten. There is Andy from Richmond, Virginia ( I only mention that as it's kind of random that it's the same town as Andrea) There is myself and Ali ( who I think is in her 60s) a Mexican guy who has kept to himself, and then there is a 74 yr old American man whose name I forget and 5 young German and Dutch girls. We have had so many laughs sat around in the dorm. Proper can't breathe for laughing laughs.

    The young girls are great fun. Two are med students. None of them knew each other before this evening. It looks like we are all pretty much staying in the same place tomorrow evening

    Miles walked today 16.48
    Steps 34244
    Blister count 0
    Buggered up knee- one! It's taped and bandaged, and it's hiking poles tomorrow despite the terrain.    Read more

  • Helen WhiteA Camino calls...Traveler
    Some of the arrows...

    Sunshine and the sea

    September 26 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    A less than restful night....lots of snoring and restless people getting in and out of creaky beds.

    It made me smile all the same, knowing that the noisiness will settle after 4-5 days once everyone falls into a natural rhythm. For most last night was the first real night on their first Camino. I loved listening to the excitement.

    I was out walking by 6.50. I quickly met Pollina from Stutgardt in Germany. She's 24, and we shared long conversations about so much. She was telling me that when you're young, your parents teach you. When you are older you must teach them. She explained about teaching her father to use Google maps-he is a similar age to me! But then the tables turned, and we laughed. She had not found the supermercado (supermarket) last evening....my reply...its simple just type groceries into google maps!

    Then, a lengthy walk with Cami from Slovakia. She talked about how the Ukrainian war was impacting life in Slovakia as a neighbouring country.

    She also shared that her first Camino was the Del Norte....reputed to be one of the toughest and a huge ask for a first timer. She did just under half, which is still a massive effort.

    The scenery today was stunning coastline interrupted by more urban areas and little fishing villages

    The colour of the sea here reminds me of Albany back in Australia, and anyone who knows me well knows Albany is somewhere with special memories.

    Today, I was asked about finding the path on the Camino. It really is like the adult's version of spotto! You watch out for the yellow arrows. Some are more easily found than others. There are several apps that help, and you can, if all else fails, pinpoint yourself on the map on an app. But...yes a) I'm directionally challenged and b) technology and me....
    The other option is to follow any pilgrims you might see and hope they are not lost, and actually doing the same Camino as you.

    The albergue tonight is lovely. It's small, modern and clean. I'm in a dorm of 5 others.

    On arrival, the old familiar routine kicks in. Produce your passport. Produce your pilgrims passport to collect your stamp. Then boots off and left at the door. Make your bed up- bonus tonight...bottom bunk and a duvet! Then it's shower, hand wash clothing, and head to get groceries as I was cooking tonight instead of finding somewhere to eat.

    I spent a leisurely afternoon walking (I know!) on the beach. I found a sunny reflective spot to ponder the meaning of life and other such deep things.

    Over dinner, I chatted with Eid, a Portuguese pilgrim who lives in Manchester. She is a family psychologist who used to work for a local authority and in the NHS. Some really interesting conversations.

    I had genuinely forgotten which day it was until a friend commented this morning that it was Friday. Two days, and I have lost track of time already .The magic of the Camino.

    We are opossite the beach, so that's where I am headed to watch the sunset.

    Miles walked 19.06
    Steps 39585

    Blisters...0

    Just a niggly knee    Read more

  • Helen WhiteA Camino calls...Traveler
    A stunning start to the day....view from the accommodation
    My favourite photo from todayToday's walking companion....SueBed for the night....A dorm for 14

    The sheer beauty of the sea....

    September 25 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    A late start today as breakfast was included.
    Chatted with an American couple from Florida who had finished the Camino and spent their last night back in Porto.

    I met Sue at breakfast. She's from Cornwall and easy company. We walked together, meaning that the miles passed easy and without too much effort.

    It's her first Camino. Her husband passed away last year quite quickly after a cancer diagnosis. She says he would be laughing at her and proud as this is out of her comfort zone. She describes herself as a princess. I wouldn't describe her as that, and we shared many laughs

    I had intended on making it a short walk today, but....as I write, I have clocked up 20.05 miles. Sue walked on a mile and a half further as she had booked a hotel room. Oh and she definitely won the whose got the best bed for the night competition.

    As soon as the pack went on today, I remembered what I love about the Camino, and just how very much I missed it.

    There is a peace that is to be found in walking. Add to that walking by the sea on a perfect sunshiny day. The incredible turquoise and silver shades of the sea blending to the bluest of blue skies. The scent of the salty air....yes, as a friend commented today...Helen's happy place.

    The sea here reminds me of Australia.

    The walk was on a mix of pavement and board walks. A tiny amount on cobblestone roads.

    Tonight's albergue is simple and lovely. I met up with Cheryl and Mark from Tennessee and Andrea from Alaska. We have enjoyed many stories and laughs. For them all, it's their first Camino. Kind of makes me feel a veteran!

    It's so lovely just chilling with others enjoying the slow pace again.

    Tomorrow? No idea. Think I might aim at 13 miles or the alternative is 16.5. Either way I have already gained a day on where I thought I would be.

    The only hiccup today? My beloved water bladder has finally sprung a leak on the bottom seam. Despite a Blue Peter job, it's sadly been sent to pastures new. Mind it's at least 15 years old and has many many miles under its belt. Tomorrow will be a 1 litre water bottle, and eventually, when I reach a city, I will look to get a new bladder.

    The irony was the beginning of the first camino saw me not seal the same bladder 100%, and it leaked then.

    Miles walked today...20.68
    Steps 42845    Read more

  • Helen WhiteA Camino calls...Traveler
    1The view from the accommodation
    1My bed for the night...Porto Cathedral

    Peaceful Porto

    September 24 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    A restful flight...I slept most of it. Arrived in Porto , was reunited with Bert (my backpack)
    Had a long an interesting chat with Simon-who was in Porto for a dance festival.

    Then it was off to tackle the metro. Not the ideal time to be travelling as we were literally squashed in. Anyone that knows me will know I don't like crowds at the best of times.
    Then, it was a mile walk to the Cathedral to collect my Pilgrim's passport. Bugger I forgot to get it stamped, so I might head back after breakfast tomorrow. (Or not?)

    Porto has a chilled atmosphere, and it's a balmy evening. Accommodation faces the river. The House of Sandeman has private rooms and hostel dorms. Yes, I'm in a dorm. It is a lovely place to stay. I will luxuriate in a bed complete with sheets for perhaps the last time in a couple of weeks.
    Sitting by the river this evening, I met Liz from Melbourne and her Canadian husband Paul. We chatted for ages swapping travel stories. They are both lovely. Retired and heading to the UK tomorrow before ending there 10 week travels with the long flight back home.
    I'm still not sure of tomorrow's end destination. Itll be a lateish start as breakfast is included and is not served until 8.00. Let's see how far these feet feel like travelling.

    Miles today 5.4
    Steps 11198

    Forecast tomorrow 26 degrees    Read more

  • Helen WhiteA Camino calls...Traveler

    And away I go....

    September 24 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    The day has finally arrived, and yet it feels so surreal. It hasn't hit me, even as I stand at the airport. This is actually happening. I'm heading off on my third Camino.

    I smiled in the bathrooms as I washed my hands and glanced around at all the women fussing with their hair.  Topping up their lippy and fiddling with their clothes. There is an unfussed calmness in the camino 'uniform' 

    T-shirt, hiking shorts. Hiking boots. Hair plaited. It's one of only two outfits I will wear during the next 17 days

    My back is grumbling away despite medications and cream. No doubt it will ease into the walking over the next few days. Almost like my body offering a final opt out-like I need that?

    The decision to go has come right down to the wire for so many reasons, not the least of which is Kay. I also know, though, that I need this.

    My initial plans are really sketchy but are planned around the Senda Litoral route, which closely aligns with the coast - more so than the coastal route. The Potuguese coast is stunning

    Hurricane Gabrielle may change that. It should be downgraded by the time it hits Portugal at the weekend, but hit it will do all the same. Currently, they anticipate winds of 38mph and heavy rain.

    The central route is vastly different in its scenery and history

    I at least have the freedom to change my route.  The luxury of stopping an extra day somewhere if needs be. Santiago is the plan, but equally that's not written in stone. I don't have a deep burning desire to get there.

     I may walk halfway and then turn around, heading back on a different route. Or I may walk on past.

    This Camino, I will enjoy the journey rather than focus on the destination.    Read more

  • Helen WhiteA Camino calls...Traveler

    You know a friend really gets you when..

    September 22 in England ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    The Christmas after my first Camino, I received this from Rachael, and it is one of my all-time favourite presents

    Last Camino, it was pinned to my pack. This year, it will be again with the additional sunflower charm.

    Last Camino ended in the most horrific of circumstances with the death of my much loved brother-in-law Kevin.

    It is in truth the reason I am not finishing the Camino Frances as was initially planned this year. It still feels too soon. Too raw. I would be starting where I finished last year and I can't do that yet

    These past few weeks, as I have been packing and planning, Kevin has been in my thoughts a lot. There are still so many questions that we will never know the answers to. So many reminders of his sense of humour, his kindness, and his gentle, calm approach, and the void his passing has left in the lives of all of us who knew him.

    The sunflower was one of his favourite flowers, and I have tried hard to find a fitting way to carry his memory with me on this walk. I dare say as with the final days of the last Camino, I will share conversations with Kevin as I try to make sense of that for which there is no sense.

    As I swim in the sea at every opportunity I get, I will smile, remembering the laughter and fun shared with Kev on trips to the beach at Dongara.
    Perhaps the Csmino will give me the chance to process so much.

    A reminder that our mental health can be so fragile    Read more

  • Helen WhiteA Camino calls...Traveler

    Excited anticipation....

    September 19 in England ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    With only six sleeps to go, I am finally starting to let myself get excited about the upcoming Camino - despite the uncertainty that has hung over it these past couple of weeks.  

    For anyone who has never walked a Camino, I think it is impossible to understand as it is for those who have done one to fully put into words.  

    It is not so much the physical challenge, though yes, that is part of it.  It is so very many things. It is like a 2-3 week meditation.  It is about testing yourself on so many levels, but in doing so, it is also about truly accepting the things we cannot change and being at peace with the decisions we make.  

     It is finding true inner peace and about escaping from the stresses of ‘normal life’ for a short period of time-truly stepping off the treadmill that is life.  Time to look from the outside in.  An abundance of thinking time and after this past year, that space is very much what I need

    There are times when tears flow freely for 1001 different reasons. And sometimes for no reason at all. There are such extreme highs and lows of emotions.  There is laughter. There is the joy of a simple routine - which, when my work life is juggling a tight appointment schedule with the challenges of traffic and being self-employed, is perhaps one of the things I cherish most 

     

    There are times of complete solitude and times where we share snippets of our journey with complete  strangers who fast become friends with whom we share the deepest of conversations.  The same strangers who become part of our Camino family - one that grows larger with every new Camino

    There are mornings where we wake with excitement for the day ahead despite a sleep disturbed by the cacophony of snorers, just as there are moments when we feel we genuinely can not take another step. 

    Times when we stare at the beauty that surrounds us, and don’t ever want the moment to end, and there are moments when we are so exhausted, and when the pain in joints, and feet feels unbearable.

    There truly are no words to describe it.  Yes, I am addicted.  As with the  last  two years, I plan this with no pressure.  I have booked only the first nights accommodation in Porto.

     Im not even really decided on which of the 3 routes I will take- just that the aim is Santiago. I will take each day as it comes and see which path looks the most enticing.  I am under no illusion that it will test me physically as the training has certainly not been what was planned.  I also know that as always  sarc will be with me each step of the way-though we seem to have a mutual respect these days, and I have learnt that the key to living with it is in finding a middle ground. 

    This time next week, I will be sleeping in an Albergue (hostel) somewhere in Portugal.    Read more

    Trip start
    September 24, 2025
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