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Ruta Maya

November - Desember 2023
Petualangan 46-sehari oleh John & CATHARINE Baca selengkapnya
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  • Ruta Maya
    2
    Hari 25

    Day 19 - San Juan Pinola to Antigua

    27 November 2023, Guatemala ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We have to circumvent Guatemala City as best we can today within the confines of the roads available. Unfortunately that means 2 unavoidable stretches on highways - basically poor motorways. The first one is not great but manageable. The second is truly awful - it would have been safer cycling on the hard shoulder of the M1. The supposed hard shoulder varied in size and quality, disappearing in many places so we were forced onto the highway with lorry after lorry steaming along. There were tortilla stands and other sellers at intervals on the hard shoulder that you had to navigate round and you had to watch for cars pulling off in front of you to grab their morning snack - or cars and Lorries just parked in the hard shoulder. There were exits and entrances and petrol stations to add to the hazards - all the time with the thunderous and polluted roar of the vehicles. Then there was a patch of muddy water that Catharine passed just as a large lorry went through - soaking her in stale algae. Worse was to come when there was some sort of sewage leak across about 100 metres of road. We tried to time it to avoid being in the soak zone but again Catharine got soaked in sewage - it was effectively like a bucket of sewage down the left side of the body - and it stank. After that it was too risky to drink from the water bottles so it was another 20km - including a hot steep climb before we could get to lunch stop and wash stuff as best as possible using water from the TDA containers (no running water).
    Before getting to the second motorway there is a beautiful sweeping descent with amazing views down to Lake Amatitlan and views of Volcano Acatenango. We get stopped at roadworks and they say it will be 3 hours before the road opens - but then say we can go through on bikes - BUT the tarmac is still wet and we get off as soon as we can but not before there is a fine layer of tarmac stuck to our wheels which then makes for very slow sticky cycling for many miles.
    The descent into Antigua is very steep - I guess it is surrounded by volcanoes ! Then we reach Antigua and the ancient cobbles are unbelievably hard and uncomfortable to ride on. Eventually we get to our hotel (Hotel Candelabria) which is an oasis of calm behind wooden doors with a central courtyard and soothing fountain.    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Ruta Maya
    Hari 26

    Antigua rest day

    28 November 2023, Guatemala ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Rest day in Antigua which is the original capital of Guatemala - but being surrounded by active volcanoes it kept getting destroyed so they moved the capital to Guatemala City. Antigua is a really interesting place - cobbled streets, colourful buildings and some amazing architecture. The women and girls wear brightly coloured traditional dress similar to Peru.
    We head out for coffee and sit in a lovely internal courtyard and the cake and cortado is delicious. We wander round the city most of the morning and have lunch at a lovely Italian style restaurant that looks like it is from another era.
    We had hoped to walk up and see view of volcanoes but changing tyres ready for paved section takes a lot longer than expected - Kenny the bike mechanic takes 7 attempts using a compression pump to get the tyres to bed in!
    Dinner was back at the Italian place - 2 starters, 2 mains, 1 dessert, 3 glasses of wine, a mojito and service charge was £55. Half of the bill for previous night. We again sleep with our balcony doors open to get a cool breeze    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Ruta Maya
    1
    Hari 27

    Day 20 - Antigua to Panajachel

    29 November 2023, Guatemala ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We started the day with the riders briefing at 6am on the roof terrace as the sun was rising and were treated to amazing views of the surrounding volcanoes.
    We were on the road before 7 and once off the cobbled roads of Antigua we started to climb. Then we got to the section described as hike-a-bike - it is a narrow road made of compacted clay / dirt which is really a series of pockmarks and water channels winding upwards through trees. It was just about rideable so long as you didn’t lose your nerve - except when we got to a bit in the deep shade which was wet and the slick tyres just slid so we needed to walk. The 6km on the Pan American highway was ok as there was a metre consistent hard shoulder without too many obstacles in.
    Then we climbed into a beautiful lush mountainous area with great views before lunch stop at 10.15 - Just before the river crossing. They use 25 avocados in the fresh guacamole that they make most days to feed about 18 people including staff. They have to dispose of the perishable food after every lunch but usually they are able to give to locals - or stray dogs!
    The river crossing isn’t that high but it is very smelly so shoes will need washed again 😩
    The temperature is lovely - hot but cool breeze as we climb. There are loads of fields with crops everywhere and a lot of workers still using hand tools.
    When we start the descent we get truly amazing views of Lake Atitalan. There are beautiful flowers and plants everywhere as well.
    We enter Panajachel and it is very pretty but clearly touristy. We are at the hotel by 1pm so time to sit by the pool and relax !    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Ruta Maya
    Hari 28

    Panajachel - Rest day

    30 November 2023, Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    A relaxed day not doing a lot! Hotel overlooks Lake Atitalan and we had a wonderful view of the sun as it set and as it rose.
    Catharine had a pension fund call and then did washing and John read by the pool. Lovely temperature.
    We returned to our favourite coffee shop for a cortado before wandering round the stalls. There are hundreds of them, mostly selling very similar stuff and there are barely any tourists so no idea how they make a living. ATM deducted money from my account but gave no cash - second time this trip 😠 though I have now had first one refunded.
    Lovely lunch with wine followed by the most amazing ice cream from the ice cream shop - 70% vegan dark chocolate plus some ginger ice cream - amazing !
    Also added a photo of the 2 for 1 mojitos we had last night at same restaurant we went to today for lunch !    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Ruta Maya
    Hari 29

    Day 21 - Panajachel to Sanapulas

    1 Desember 2023, Guatemala ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We had our riders briefing at 5.45am in the hotel restaurant. The TDA tour leader said we he to be shuttled 4k in the Mafiosa van to avoid a section of the Pan American highway that had no hard shoulder. I joked about a dream I had the night before where my dad had said he wasn’t happy about my safety on the roads we were cycling on - so maybe this was it.
    We started with a 15k climb of about 3,500 feet but there were great views back towards the volcanoes and lakes.
    After the shuttle we had more climbing. We stopped at a viewpoint and there was a bus with basically one extended family on. They wanted pictures with us and so we stood there while about 10 local people took multiple picture of us - the tourist attraction.
    The area seemed poorer again and we stopped at a bakery in one of the towns and ordered coffee - and a couple of the bakery items. Coffee turned out to be instant (no milk available) but the biscuits were nice enough - 3 coffees and 3 bakery items for £2. While we were paying an older man came in and was hassling us for money. I gave him half my biscuit and John offered him the mug of coffee. The man drank it like his life depended on it and it slopped out as he had very few teeth. John then asked if he would like some food and bought him this enormous loaf/ cake thing and he disappeared off putting the remains of the biscuit in his pocket.
    We were then routed through a town that had a busy market and roadworks going on. We couldn’t go on the actual route and ended up going the wrong way downhill on a one way street . John was ahead and hadn’t realised and a car pulled out at some cross roads not looking at the direction we were coming from because they were crossing a one way street. I was 30 metres behind and shouted but it was too late. John tried to swerve away but the car still impacted and sent him sprawling. Amazingly he didn’t break anything and the bike was relatively unscathed. Bump to the head and a wrenched neck and back though. There were locals everywhere trying to help, asking if we needed a doctor etc and the young lad who had been driving the car looked terrified. John insisted he was ok to cycle so we checked the bike and left after a while. I offered to pay for the scrape to front of the lads car (it was pretty bashed up generally but there was a new bash I think) but he insisted no - he was just glad John was ok.
    We cycled onto lunch with John having some issues with the gears.
    The countryside changed in the afternoon - very dry and mountainous and then back to rainforest and mountainous.
    I had to leap down into a ditch at one point as some idiot lorry driver coming the opposite way decided to overtake coming straight at me and a pedestrian - who also had to jump in the ditch. So all in all a bit of a scary day in places.
    Hotel is basic but cool and clean and we enjoyed beer and ice lollies after we had washed the day away. We are at over 4000 feet tonight so it’s a nice temperature in the evening sun. Multiple power cuts in the evening !.    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Ruta Maya
    Hari 30

    Day 22 - Sacapulas to Santa Cruz Verapaz

    2 Desember 2023, Guatemala ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    At the riders meeting we are warned that this is the toughest day of the tour, particularly given the tough day we had the day before. We are going to climb over 9,000 feet and it’s going to be hot and at altitude. I didn’t sleep well at all due to the road noise and breakfast wasn’t the best so it’s not great preparation for a tough day.
    The first climb starts immediately, is 6 miles long and about 3,000 feet of climbing. There are some great views as we climb and there is a beautiful sweeping descent where you have to keep remembering to look at the road surface as the views are quite spectacular. However the next climb starts and my legs die. I crawl into lunch but it’s so hot I don’t feel like eating - just take a bottle of cold water and try and rest. Andrew comes in and is suffering from a terrible bout of gastrointestinal something or other and has had to dive into the bushes a few times. I offer to ride slowly with him if he wants to continue and John goes on.
    Lunch is by a (very basic and precarious looking) viewing platform with amazing views across the rainforest covered mountains.
    Andrew and I set off in the searing heat, sometimes getting off to walk up the steeper sections of the 13 mile, 3,600 feet climb 🥵 . After a while the sweep rider catches us up so I leave Andrew with them and continue to crawl along. It takes all my will to keep going as I have zero energy. However the scenery is beautiful as we pass through little villages along the edge of the hillside. At one point there is the most amazing live music coming from a wooden building high up - lots of people are walking up to it. I look across the end of the hillside at the top of the valley and wonder whether there has been a landslide as there is a scar on the side that appears to be smoking. I realise it is a large rubbish tip that is smouldering. Just as I reach the point where the paved road becomes dusty gravel, Malcolm the tour leader pulls up in the Mafiosa and asks if I want a lift across the 2km gravel section - avoiding the burning rubbish dump - I leap at the chance! John has long since ridden this and passed the people washing themselves / their cars in the water pouring off the hillside above the gravel road.
    I get dropped off at the end of the gravel section and crawl the last 6 miles or so - I don’t know how I managed to make it to the hotel - one of the hardest rides I have done. 9,000 feet of climbing and 8 hours in the saddle    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Ruta Maya
    Hari 31

    Rest day - Santa Cruz Verapaz

    3 Desember 2023, Guatemala ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We are staying at an odd gated resort just on the outskirts of a pretty uninspiring town. There are quite large grounds - pictures taken by somebody else as John and me take the rest day literally and do nothing much at all other than eat and drink! We can be using as much as 4,000 calories a day and it’s just not possible to get enough food onboard to replenish what we are using - particularly as we are somewhat bored of the scrambled eggs, tortillas and black beans that are served at breakfast! We have a good coffee for once and then I have a pizza at lunch - first time I have felt like eating much in the last couple of days - no idea why. It takes an hour to arrive and I have to ask for it 3 times ! Everyone else has finished by the time I get mine. I clean my bike and don’t do an awful lot. I hadn’t slept well the night before as someone had been beeping their horn for about an hour from 1-2am - initially beep beep beep and then moving to a continual beep as they sat on their horn. I am assuming they were locked out of the complex and were trying to get someone to open up !Baca selengkapnya

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  • Ruta Maya
    Hari 32

    Day 23 - Santa Cruz Verapaz to Chisec

    4 Desember 2023, Guatemala ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    A relatively short day on the bike and the first wet day. We were soaked within about 30 minutes ! It was a shame we had to concentrate so hard on the roads because the scenery would have been amazing. It dried up as we arrived at lunch - early. The afternoon was through village after village - houses built into the hillside or alongside the road. Very basic - most of them just wooden structures with a few rooms and concrete floors. Coffee plantations on the sides of the hills and lots of rainforest. There were a few areas of cleared rainforest but not on a massive scale. John and I stopped for an ice cream at a tiny store - there were about 4 kids there watching so we offered them an ice cream too - they were incredibly shy at first but then one by one accepted - I had to tell them to get on and eat them as they were just holding them in their wrappers and would have melted. We then felt guilty and offered all the ladies there one as well - they were all part of an extended family. The toddler grimaced when he first tasted his and then decided he quite liked it!
    We arrived at the hotel about 1 - big bed that pretty much fills the room - pretty basic with 2 large Alsatians outside ! It started chucking it down about 3pm and has not stopped so the washing we have done will probably not dry ! It’s humid but pleasant sitting outside the room in the covered hallway listening to the rain !    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Ruta Maya
    Hari 33

    Day 24 - Chisec to Sayaxche

    5 Desember 2023, Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    It rains heavily all night and is still torrential when we get up. Given the dangers of hidden potholes and slippy roads I decide to take the van to lunch and ride from there if it dries up. Given that John has ridden every mile so far, he decides to brave the weather. As it turns out the weather is better than forecast and I ask if we can get out of the van before the lunch stop so we all do. There are open fields and rainforest with mist as we cycle along through more tiny villages - these are the Guatemalan lowlands so pretty flat today compared with where we have been! Then the rainforest either side of the road becomes much thicker and is like something out of Tarzan! And then the landscape reverts to trees and fields and looks almost English countryside - and then back to rainforest and little villages. There are so many stray dogs - many clearly have puppies. Best thing a dog charity could do would be a sterilisation programme. We see a dead dog many days that has been hit by a car and so many of the live ones are painfully thin. Kate on our tour collects any leftover meat every night for feeding the strays the next day !
    It is noticeable again how many churches there are - these are concrete and fancy but many look like they have been abandoned. There are also numerous petrol stations that look like they have never been finished. It makes me wonder whether missionaries were here for a while and then left. Most houses are just wooden - many with some type of thatched roof.
    Everyone is friendly and waves / shouts gringo as we pass.
    The lunch van gets stopped by the fruit police and gets all the fruit confiscated- not sure why - must be some sort of disease that they are trying to eradicate.
    It’s a very straight road today and pretty quiet so it is a baptism of noise as we enter the town where we are staying tonight. Bustling, noisy and chaotic. We arrive relatively early so time to have a coffee at a little place that was very hard to find and looked nothing from the outside. I order an americano with milk on the sauce and I get a black coffee and a large cup of sweetened hot milk !
    There is a little puppy that we all pet (see picture)
    Dinner is at a local restaurant and is surprisingly good - plenty of leftover meat for the strays tomorrow !    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Ruta Maya
    Hari 34

    Day 25 - Sayaxche to Tikal

    6 Desember 2023, Guatemala ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    We start the day with a boat crossing - it’s a wooden boat that’s very flat and low in the water and takes all the cyclists plus riders. We see other similar boats carrying a van or a lorry, which doesn’t seem possible given how basic they look. It’s about 10 minutes across the water and then we are riding through the lowlands - there is marshland on one side that looks very Harry Potter-esque and thick jungle on the other. There are noises coming from the jungle that sound like dinosaurs ! Apparently there are jaguars and lots of snakes.
    Five of us form a peloton and cover 50km in under 2 hours before stopping for coffee - the coffee was mediocre but the service was good and everyone friendly.
    Today there are fewer houses along the side of the road although there seem to be more villages with sandy roads going off the main road that we are on - presumably leading to houses.
    Amazingly we have a dry day in spite of the forecast. It is a really nice temperature to be riding as the sun is out but there is a reasonably strong wind that keeps us cool and also it’s less humid than it has been - the wind is hard work for John though who does the most time at the front (I don’t volunteer !)
    At the lunch stop we buy fresh lemonade with soda - it has crushed ice through it and is quite tangy - delicious when you are thirsty and a bit off your food! The man who serves it says he never goes to Belize without his gun ….. that’s where we are headed next.
    The road heads up through the national park to the eco lodge where we are staying - again thick jungle all around and signs warning of snakes, jaguar and ant- eaters. We see a very large dead snake at the edge of the road!
    The eco lodge is lovely and the food and homemade iced papaya / melon juice delicious. We only have electricity between certain hours    Baca selengkapnya

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